GGTS Clone/CCST/Chi Chi Show and Tell

[tc1]

If I wanted to do this by hand....what exactly would I need? I've never done anything even remotely
like that before, but if I find that I REALLY like this thing when I get it, I'd be interested in buying
a 2nd one and following your guidelines, if you feel like dealing with total n00b.

Just depends how you refinish it but in general ... yes, you can polish it to get a gold like color (what I did on mine). Brass pretty much looks like gold, only darker and less shine. I used several dremel polishing bits and polish paste to achieve a lighter color.

I used 220 grit sandpaper and dremel wheel ... then used a metal wife polishing brush bit.

You can do it completely by hand. Just buy 200, 400, 600, 800 grit sandpaper and work your way up the grits until you have a.finish you like.

Another poster even mentioned putting a carto in your drill .... connect the mod ... then run the drill in one hand while holding the mod with the sand paper in the other.

Plenty of ways really ...

 

[zipflint]

That doesn't sound TOO complicated, even for a clumsy doofus like myself.

 

[440BB]

I used 220 grit sandpaper and dremel wheel ... then used a metal wife polishing brush bit.

I never tried polishing my wife, where do I start?

 

[tc1]

Metal wire brush .... good 'ole android auto-type ... lol.

BTW ... last night I gave my CCTS a hot water bath with a little laundry soap to clean the contacts and I swear ... my voltage drop INCREASED! Even weirder ... my K100 (stainless steel contacts) is performing just as good if not better with a 0.8 ohm coil than my CCTS with filed down brass contacts.

Not sure exactly how that is happening. The only thing that comes to mind is that the K100 has a thicker body, thus allowing more current to flow through the circuit.

 

[ethebull]

I just got a K100. I find it hits better than any of my Chichi's (3 of them, one stock and two with de-plated threads and contacts)

Might just be a matter of mass. The K100 is beefier in every way. What ever it is, it performs better with every attie I've tried.

 

[tc1]

Yeah ... I'm rocking a 0.6 ohm 28 gauge coil on my AGA-T2 right now and the K100 is hitting pretty hard. 0.4 volt drop according to my multimeter but still ... that's over 20 watts. lol

 

[crxess]

Metal wire brush .... good 'ole android auto-type ... lol.

BTW ... last night I gave my CCTS a hot water bath with a little laundry soap to clean the contacts and I swear ... my voltage drop INCREASED! Even weirder ... my K100 (stainless steel contacts) is performing just as good if not better with a 0.8 ohm coil than my CCTS with filed down brass contacts.



Not sure exactly how that is happening. The only thing that comes to mind is that the K100 has a thicker body, thus allowing more current to flow through the circuit.

Current travels the least path of resistance. i.e. the surface no matter how thick the device. Differences in molecular structure are more likely.

 

[tc1]

Good point. Yeah, I'm not sure what is going on exactly. Seems like every time I test my voltage on my CCTS it gives me a different reading using the same atomizer and battery/voltage. I also noticed that the voltage seems to fluctuate more on my CCTS than on my K100.

 

[crxess]

Good point. Yeah, I'm not sure what is going on exactly. Seems like every time I test my voltage on my CCTS it gives me a different reading using the same atomizer and battery/voltage. I also noticed that the voltage seems to fluctuate more on my CCTS than on my K100.

Seems to me the switch is the weak link of the CCTS - not that it is bad, just not a super good switch. Current has to pass along the pin to a point where it transfers to the Body.

 

[tc1]

Seems to me the switch is the weak link of the CCTS - not that it is bad, just not a super good switch. Current has to pass along the pin to a point where it transfers to the Body.

My thought was that it might be the chrome plating ... which is on the threads (where the circuit is completed). Where as on the K100, it's all steel. ?

 

[zipflint]

Speaking of the switch.....I got mine today and it seems totally kosher. I had read that the locking nut on the switch was causing some folks problems, in that attempting to....unwind?....wind-out? the locking nut, the whole switch assembly would unthread.

This appears to have been fixed. It's very easy to lock and unlock the switch on mine. However, if I ever needed to totally remove the switch, I don't know how I would do that. The switch itself seems to just spin in place, whether I rotate it clockwise or counterclockwise.

I should add that I haven't fired it yet. I want to err on the side of caution so I'm waiting on a reusable safety fuse to arrive tomorrow before I actually attempt to vape anything.

Better safe than sorry and all that jazz.

 

[crxess]

Dummy Alert!
That was for me........ and anyone else that may have missed this.

We all clean/sand the Center pin and Switch pin end for better contact. A Lot of us may be missing another important part of the switch circuit. The Switch nut is fastened to the Body(no problem) The switch Pin HEAD Passes current.

So Facing on switch nut / both Faces on Lock(thumb)screw / back side of switch pin Flat surface - ALL these Areas need to be free from anything that can block current flow, in addition to the Pin tip and Center post.

 

[tc1]

Dummy Alert!
That was for me........ and anyone else that may have missed this.

We all clean/sand the Center pin and Switch pin end for better contact. A Lot of us may be missing another important part of the switch circuit. The Switch nut is fastened to the Body(no problem) The switch Pin HEAD Passes current.

So Facing on switch nut / both Faces on Lock(thumb)screw / back side of switch pin Flat surface - ALL these Areas need to be free from anything that can block current flow, in addition to the Pin tip and Center post.

My thought was that the current is flowing from the pin head, to the button threads, to the switch threads of the PV. Both threads being covered in chrome plating ... causing the main source of resistance.

 

[crxess]

My thought was that the current is flowing from the pin head, to the button threads, to the switch threads of the PV. Both threads being covered in chrome plating ... causing the main source of resistance.

Actually Pin head to lock collar to mounting nut facing to mount back facing and outer threads. Think all outer surfaces that make contact first. Ones that can be improved upon easily and reduce resistance.

 

[Birchi]

Mine showed up today from Hoosiervapes. I also received the Igo-L from RTD Vapor along with kanthal and wick. I wrapped a .7 ohm coil (according to my VV Gripper), which was my first coil ever and gave it a try. Burnt, yuck, I think I wrapped too tight and choked the wick. Built another coil at 1.0 and it is working really, really well.

Here is a pic of my CCTS and Igo-L in 18350 mode, which is what I bought it for Much smaller than I thought it would be. I guess my only gripe is that the Igo-L isn't sitting flush.

.. and a picture next to a VV Gripper and a 10ml bottle for reference.

 

[White Rabbit]

If that's the case, it must have been a recent change. Mine is normal right hand thread.

This is a picture of the switch from my China GG Clone from .................. I think it is self explanatory but as usual these may be made by different manufacturers and the threads may not be the same on similar devices from other manufacturers. On mine there is a small base flange that I need to turn on the base of the switch (clockwise) to remove it from the base. The locking nut has normal threads.

 

[qorax]

Hi guys, I'm in the 'wish-list' with my local B&M for the above. It's expected around mid of this month. I'm aware that the KTS-GGTS takes on any 510 Atty/Clearo (others too, but with an adaptor). I'd like ur opinion on which Atty/Clearo suits the best on this device. Is it the Aga-T2, X8, Vivi Nova or which other?

 

[tc1]

ViVi Nova will fit flush I believe ... the AGA hangs over just a tad ... but looks just fine on it. Not sure on the X8 but I'd imagine it probably sits flush.

Most attys are going to look ok on it so it just comes down to what kind of vape you want. I pretty much use genesis attys on my mechanical mods but you can just as easily build a low resistance coil head on a Nova or use a low resistance carto to get a satisfying vape.

It's going to come down to personal preference. If you like cartos ... the X8. If you want a clearo-style tank that you can rebuild ...Nova. If you want to push the limits of vapor, flavor, and nicotine ... AGA-T2. X8 is going to be the easiest to use, as you just pop in a new carto when the time comes. Followed by the Nova, which is pretty easy to rebuild (check youtube), then the AGA-T2 which will require a bit more messing around with until you become accustom to genesis style rebuilding.

Also, I mention rebuilding the Nova and not just buying new heads because frankly ... you're GOING to have to rebuild your coils to get a good vape on a mechanical. A lot of those "low resistance" 1.8 ohm heads meter out to 2+ ohms. For a mechanical my personal taste is 1.5 ohms or lower. Under 2 ohms for a clearo style usually.

 

[crxess]

Vivi STV looks good and Boge F16 is a very good Fit. Most Rebuildable tanks are a bit to Fat. AGA-S is Slick on top. Just needs a Gold Shorty Drip Tip to finish it off.

 

[Rader2146]

This is a picture of the switch from my China GG Clone from .................. I think it is self explanatory but as usual these may be made by different manufacturers and the threads may not be the same on similar devices from other manufacturers. On mine there is a small base flange that I need to turn on the base of the switch (clockwise) to remove it from the base. The locking nut has normal threads. View attachment 195646

Definitely a change from original design. I ordered mine from Hoosier's right after it was released. But that is a good modification as mine will unscrew the entire switch if I tighten down the lock ring too much.