im interested in this too. i thought we needed more tools than just a multimeter to determine voltage drop.
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im interested in this too. i thought we needed more tools than just a multimeter to determine voltage drop.
It sounded good to me. I guess we could just act like this is right. Pretty soon everybody on the internet would be doing it the same way, and voila, then it would be right.
BTW kids. Don't try this at home. I'm specially trained in disappointment.
The blue flaked off pretty quick, and the black wore thin quick. I may try again though with some sanding to prep the surface, and maybe a proper coat of primer.
Personally I think any paint will wear off quickly due to the grease on your hands and if any e-juice gets on the paint, the combination of PG and VG will dissolve the paint. Powder Coat is one answer if you have a friend in the business. The other is to sand or grind it down to solid brass and coat with auto wax. That is what I did and it looks fantastic in all brass.
Wabbit
Wabbit
Quick update on mine, I've had it a couple months and I'm using it as my all day bang around, go everywhere mod, and it's held up quite well. The button came unscrewed and i had to put some loc-tite on it to keep it threaded. The gold plated finish on the button and the top cap where my thumb rests on it constantly have lost their finish, but other than that, it's been bullet proof and reliable. I've dropped it at least 20 times with no effect. it's dinged up and more of a matte finish now, but for 35 bucks, this thing is outperforming all of my more expensive mods. I'm pretty happy with it.
Here is a picture of the KTS GG Clone sanded down to all brass. This is not mine, and is reposted from another user. It will give you an idea of what it looks like. When polished and waxed it shines almost like chrome.
This is mine. It is now all brass:
This is another persons KTS Storm with a brushed finish:
This is mine. It is now all brass:
This is another persons KTS Storm with a brushed finish:
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That's very cool josh. Thinking outside the box.
Have you tried adding O-rings to the groove in the bottom cap?
Have you tried adding O-rings to the groove in the bottom cap?
Thanks! Yeah, the O-rings are doing a pretty good job in stopping the wiggling especially in 18650 with the Kick. :thumbup:
I actually did put 2 O-rings of the same size on the bottom cap but it's not deep enough to stick to the groove. It would easily come off when I put the mod in my pocket.
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Can anyone give me any tips on how to take the switch apart/off the PV? Wanted to do some tinkering today, thanks!
EDIT: never mind got it!
EDIT: never mind got it!
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So what seems to be the consensus on making these things perform better? I've got a gold plated spring. Considering I have to tighten the hell of of it to get a good connection, essentially bypassing the spring, I might just desolder it, and remove the plating for the negative connection, switch contact faces, and positive post connection. I might have to take the positive pin to a press to get it out for sanding, though...
Any suggestions before I tear this thing apart?
Any suggestions before I tear this thing apart?
After removing and sanding the top pin on both sides, desoldering the spring (leaving the bare hollow cylindrical contact, getting a copper pin to put in there soon), sanding the the side of the bottom pin, sanding the switch pin contact, and removing the fuse (.2V drop there) I'm still getting a .42V drop @ .5ohm. Next steps would be to contour a slight radius in the switch pin contact face(might not, not a lot of extra throw is possible), and sanding the switch contact faces.... Though, what I'm finding is that I'm only getting .05V drop from the part of the switch you press to the atomizer negative post, so that means most of the drop is from either the battery or the positive post connection.
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It sits well on the cone top, as it is necked down to the right diameter for it.
I have used a Fasttech all chrome GG clone for about 3 weeks now. For less then $18 shipped to my house it was a great deal. 30 mins to tweak it and this GG clone works just as well as my tweaked Natural. No issues what so ever. Here is a pic of mine with a Ithaca clone I just got. And next to my Natural with a RSST. Both are in 18350 mode. The KTS+ or GG clone also has a short stop in it.
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how do you narrow down the voltage drop to a specific point like this?
By using the logic understood in Kirchhoff's Voltage Law(KVL). I measure across various points, trying to find where the voltage drop is, or is not, and narrow it down. I realize my earlier measurement is only across the switch to body, and body to atomizer. The voltage drop I have not (and really cannot easily) measured is:
Battery to bottom pin
Bottom pin to switch
battery to top pin
top pin to atomizer
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