GGTS Clone/CCST/Chi Chi Show and Tell

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studiovap

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If you woulda looked through the thread, yea a few people have. :vapor:

I'm actually thinking about sand blasting mine and then maybe polishing now lol.




I did look through the thread mate, and the coop one and have several times. The pics of the brass one in bits I had assumed had arrived like that form somthing I read about it arriving from Karn. Most of my ecf surfing is on an I phone with a v slow connection especially when pictures are having to load so I thought I might of missed a good example other than what you have linked. I'm not a lazy ecfer :(
I'm thinking about sanding mine in a pillar drill working my way through 200 to 1200 grit, although the middle section is so thin I may leave that chrome along with a few other bits to two tone it. Just was hoping for a bit more testimonial info before I cut through the finish. Like how easy the final polish was, what grades of grit folks had best results with etc etc. I contribute my modding experiences regularly with extensive explanation written and pictorial, and was just after somthing similar.
Good luck with the sand blasting. Have you considered reverse electro plating to strip the chrome and copper ?
 

Lhartman89

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Ah, I hate surfing ECF on phones. So hard to find anything. I am sure someone else that has done it will chime in. I do not have access to electro plating to strip it. I do have a bench grinder with wire wheel and a sand blaster and some sand. I am going to try it out on the center tube and see what happens. I have the all chrome CCTS right now.
 

jralabate

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Ah, I hate surfing ECF on phones. So hard to find anything. I am sure someone else that has done it will chime in. I do not have access to electro plating to strip it. I do have a bench grinder with wire wheel and a sand blaster and some sand. I am going to try it out on the center tube and see what happens. I have the all chrome CCTS right now.

If ur on a android or iPhone use tapatalk to view the forums

Sent from my NS4G powered by Helly Bean
 

WinchellNomNom

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Another picture of my beaters. So shiny.

Wish there were an option for a flat top cap on the chi chi. I dont put any 22mm attys on it. Makes it look like the hamburgler
 

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tc1

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That's pretty significant. Means I've probably never actually hit 20 watts on my CCTS. So you're getting around 30 watts on a fresh charge? Good lord I can't imagine what that must feel like! lol

Should have my K100 tomorrow ... interested in seeing if I can notice any difference. Probably not, as the contacts are probably made of the same materials and the voltage drop off close to the same.

Granted, there are several factors that play into voltage drop under load when it comes to mechanical (and most have nothing to do with the device itself) .
 
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tc1

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The lower the ohm, the larger the drop in my experience. Plus other factors.

Yup. Less resistance = higher amp draw on your battery. Anyone have some of the MNKE high amp draw IMRs? Would be interested in seeing the different in voltage drop under load compared to say the Panasonics.

Went ahead and bought an inline meter tonight from carolinavapes along with some other vape gear. (vape10 code for 10% off if you ever shop there) Might have to grab a MNKE to see if there is a significant improvement in voltage drop compared to the standard IMRs most people are using.

That is of course ... unless someone already has MNKE batteries for their CCTS and would like to do this test for us. ;)
 

Lhartman89

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Read this link and use the equations quoted below to find out what watts you are getting.

Voltage Drop - Not Where You Think | atmizoo vaping modware


A lower atomizer resistance translates into higher current = more power = more vapour. However, the higher the current, the higher the voltage drop on the internal battery resistance and mod resistance.

Remember that voltage drops at high currents cannot be completely eliminated. The presence of voltage drop only means that the efficiency is decreased. With lower resistance coils, the power on the atomizer increases, but a higher percentage of it is lost on the way.

Let’s get to an example:

[Joe]

Joe has an 18500 non-IMR battery. He vapes with an RBA that has a 1.2 Ohm coil. His battery is fully charged, so he decides to measure the voltage drop of his Roller.

Joe measures the battery voltage at open-circuit, and finds it to be 4.2 Volts.

Then, Joe measures the voltage across the atomizer terminals under load, and finds it to be 3.79 Volts. He assumes that his mod is giving him a voltage drop of 0.41 Volts and frowns unhappily. He is convinced that his mod is not giving him a good hit, although it vapes like a train.

[Jay]

Jay has a fresh 18500 IMR battery. He vapes with an RBA that has a 2.2 Ohm coil. His battery is fully charged, so he decides to measure the voltage drop of his Roller.

Jay measures the battery voltage at open-circuit, and finds it to be 4.2 Volts.

Then, Jay measures the voltage across the atomizer terminals under load, and finds it to be 4.02 Volts. He assumes that his Roller is giving him a voltage drop of 0.18 Volts and goes on to say how amazing it is and how great it vapes.

One minor detail I forgot to mention is that Joe sold his Roller to Jay because of the “voltage drop issue”, so it’s the *same* device.

On to the explanation:

The voltage across a resistance is given by the rather simplified formula V = I * R, where I is the current supplied by the battery and R the resistance we are examining.

The current I flowing through a mod is roughly equal to: I = Voc / ( Ra + Rm + Ri ), where Voc is the open circuit voltage of the battery, Rm is the equivalent mod resistance, Ri is the internal battery resistance and Ra is the atomizer resistance.

A typical value for Ri would be around 0.08 Ohms for a non-IMR battery that is in *OK* condition, while a newer, larger capacity, non stressed, high-drain battery might be better. Take this value with a grain of salt, since each battery is different.

Now, the mod’s equivalent resistance is again not a static quantity, since it depends on how tight the different components are screwed, how clean they are, and many other variable factors. A typical equivalent value would be around 0.05 Ohms, perhaps even less.

So, with the same mod (Rm = 0.05) in the same condition and configuration, Joe was vaping at a current of:

I_joe = 4.2 / (0.08 + 0.05 + 1.2) = 3.16 Amps,

which gives an atomizer voltage of

Va_joe = 3.16 * 1.2 = 3.79 Volts.

In the case of Jay, these values were:

I_jay = 4.2 / (0.05 + 0.05 + 2.2) = 1.83 Amps
Va_jay = 1.83 * 2.2 = 4.02 Volts

So – the voltage drop says nothing. In fact, Joe’s kit was putting out many more watts than Jay’s, because of the low atomizer resistance. Joe was vaping at:

P_joe = Va_joe * I_joe = 3.16 * 3.79 = 12 Watts

while Jay is vaping at:

P_jay = Va_jay * I_jay = 1.83 * 4.02 = 7.36 Watts

Bottom line:

If you want to vape with a low resistance coil, the best thing to do in order to maximize efficiency is to use a high-drain, high-energy battery (18500/18650 IMR).

If Joe had a good IMR battery, his current and voltage would be:

I_joe’ = 4.2 / (0.04 + 0.05 + 1.2) = 3.26 Amps,

which would give an atomizer voltage of

Va_joe’ = 3.16 * 1.2 = 3.91 Volts

and a power of

P_joe’ = 12.73 Watts,

which is much better than the 3.79 Volts and 12 Watts he got with the non-IMR battery.
 

Rader2146

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I never really checked it in stock form, but with some light sanding on the contacts to expose the brass(?) my drop is 0.13V.

CGR18650CH @ 4.15V
1.1Ω coil on AGA-T+
4.02V measured inline between mod and atty.

ETA: One thing to note for those that are measuring without an inline adapter (ie: measuring at the posts of your RBA/RDA), is that you will never be able to tell what is causing the Vdrop. While I measured 4.02V from the mod, at the same time I measured 3.65V at the posts. Guess what's getting modded next?
 
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WinchellNomNom

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I never really checked it in stock form, but with some light sanding on the contacts to expose the brass(?) my drop is 0.13V.

CGR18650CH @ 4.15V
1.1Ω coil on AGA-T+
4.02V measured inline between mod and atty.

ETA: One thing to note for those that are measuring without an inline adapter (ie: measuring at the posts of your RBA/RDA), is that you will never be able to tell what is causing the Vdrop. While I measured 4.02V from the mod, at the same time I measured 3.65V at the posts. Guess what's getting modded next?

Your multimeter!
 
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