Giantomizer unwrapped

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Teach

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Had a problem with one of my Giantomizers and decided to take it apart. Thought you may want to see it.


Assembled view
GM 01 Side.jpg

Removed the DT and plug
GM 02 DT.jpg

Removing the tube and carto. This is a bear - must be removed from top since there is a metal shelf at the bottom to keep it from sliding down. (see 5)
GM 03.jpg

Tube completely removed.
GM 04.jpg

Shot down the outer tube... Metal shelf is about 10-11 mm from bottom.
GM 05 Seat.jpg


Rest of pics follow.
 
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Teach

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Here are the rest of the pics

Leaking must come from a cracked tube or poor seal with the silicone ring (see 9).
GM 06 CE.jpg

Solid 510 fitting is not replaceable by CE2. So much for easy reuse.
GM 07 Fitting.jpg

CE2 v Giantomizer from top
GM 08 CE2 V GM.jpg

It's not an optical illusion... there is a bit of a lean.
GM 09 Fitting.jpg

This is threaded properly... obviously got whacked pretty well at the factory.
GM 10 Align.jpg

Since it didn't leak I'm guessing the other problems are much different than this. The only place I can see for leaking are: cracking of the tube; failure of tube to seat properly with the silicone ring (see 9); or over filling which might result in flow between inner and outer tube.
 
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Teach

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I am hoping the new one will be better too.
And hoping the factory will make good on the v1 too...

Roger that BB - hope these fellows understand that they're turning a lot of people off to their product. Send them some of those pics if you think it might help. The idea is good, the execution is somewhat lacking though.

I hope the CE3 isn't going to have the same type of connector and doesn't crash and burn before it get's of the ground.
 

Teach

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my only concern about the CE3 is if it will be usable in my MAP tank & syringe mods.

It appears RS is still struggling with the language, but I'll give them an A for effort. In the pick you can see the fat wick in the giantomizers - it's hard to make out, but the 510 in the forefront (pic 2) appears to be a normal base. It doesn't look like the CE3 and Giantomizer-CE3 will be interchangable.

CE3 with caption.jpgCE3 cooming soon 510.jpg
 

Teach

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I am trying to get definitive information on the CE3. I do know it's not ready yet.

I think we’re all wondering what will happen in May. In the pics the Giantomizers don’t look different either – they may have used the old models so they could get something out… I think that was put up this week.
 

Teach

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For Ape and others;

If you try to remove the CE2 from the giantomizer, you'll find it challenging. I used a 3/32" punch (standard tool at hardware stores) to gently tap it out.

Note the oversized ledge on the CE2 fitting in this picture.
GM 07 Fitting.jpg

Looking down the Giantomizer tube, you can see metal shelf where the CE2 ledge seats in the tube. Also note that the CE2 ledge is inside the plastic inner-tube.
GM 05 Seat.jpg

When the CE2 is seated in the tube, take your punch and gently tap around the fitting ledge. This will loosen the CE2 and the plastic tube and move them forward toward the top of the outer tube. Once they have reached the top of the outer tube, you should be able to push gently the rest of the way out. Don't push on the 510 fitting, you may damage the assembly.
Fitting and punch diagram.jpg

New V2 Gianomizer makes the method obsolete, but I haven't been able to get one to check it out yet. Without the outer tubes - V2 is the first pic.(coutesy of MicroCig) V1 is the 2nd pic. Very different in design.
GM V2 CE2.jpgGiantomizer tube and plug.jpg

Hopefully, this will helps clarify.

Teach
 

bladebarrier

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my only concern about the CE3 is if it will be usable in my MAP tank & syringe mods.

If the "CE3" is the same as the "fat wick" CE2, then yes, you'll be able to use them in the MAP tank. I've been using the fat wick style since it became available, and it cuts and fits just fine. The only issue I can see with them is that the wick is very delicate, and can rip against the coil, so you need to be slow and steady when cleaning/cutting/inserting them. Aside from that, they work very well.

/This is assuming you'll use the metal carto, and not the clearomizers. I've not tried to use either in a MAP.
 
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