As far as my "mistake".... it was just foolishly over dry-burning an atty to the point of heating the head cap of the GLV to where it melted/burnt the resistor in it.![]()
See, this is EXACTLY what I am talking about. This can be very helpful to others. Was it a mistake? Yes, but one that is understandable. And, as you saw, you did not know so others may not know either. This type of resistor dissipates the extra voltage as heat so it most certainly CAN heat up.
While I have not done this to the point of melting the resistor, I may have come close. The solder-ball (positive lead in connector) has certainly flattened a bit and if I look at the resistor, I see some of the red coating has melted to the insides of the head-cap. While I do not "dry" attys on devices, I do dry-burns to clear the atty before changing flavors. Also, 901s can clog (to some extent) so as preventive maintenance, I do 2 or 3 dry burns per day to burn off any excess juice build-up. However, my technique is to burn for about 3 seconds while blowing down the atty tube from about 6" away. I do this several times in succession - releasing the button after each for about 2 seconds. Clearly, with this device design, this may well be a bad idea. Hopefully Jay will chime in and give us better guidance.
Thanks for sharing Thye! Sharing knowledge and experiences helps us all!

PS - another good point worthy of mentioning: regular 510 attys are 2.5 ohms. On a 5V device that is 10 watts - pretty hot. By comparison, most LR attys are 1.7 ohms and on a 3.7 device is only 8 watts (will be more if batts fully charged to 4.2 = 10 watts). These are high heat levels. By comparison, a 3.3 ohms atty (510, 901 or 801) on a 5V device is 7.5 watts. Just worthy to mention. Personally, I find 10 watts can give somewhat of a burnt taste, especially to VG (or higher VG base mixtures) as VG burns at lower temps. I also find most fruity/sweeter juices lose some of their flavor at above 9 watts. But, that is just me - MANY LOVE vaping 2.5 ohms on 5V!!

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