goblin mini on svd 2.0

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photogd

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Aug 4, 2015
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can anyone tell me if this
Youde UD Goblin Mini Rebuildable Tank Atomizer

will work on this
Innokin iTaste SVD 2.0 Starter Kit

or will the wattage be too low @ 20w? I'm looking to make my coils about 0.5-1.0ohm (so with dual coil, that would be 0.25-0.5 per coil). I'm currently using an iclear30s which is 2.1ohm but I want to go the rba route.

And I heard the 28ga wire is too thin to work in that goblin mini (screws don't close enough for that thin wire) but I'm worried 26ga will be too thick for the 20w to handle.

thanks
 

suprtrkr

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+1 on the single coils being double the resistance of the finished dual build. I am concerned that 20 watts will be a bit underpowered at .5 ohms. It will work, but I'm not sure how well it will vape. Still, the SVD 2.0 will fire down to .5 Ohms, so one would certainly think it will do something, if not be exactly a steamthrower. I think you'd probably be better off shooting for the .7 range or better, and with with 30ga wire if you have some. Steam Engine tells me a dual coil for .7 with 28 ga is a 9 wrap coil on a 2mm mandrel. I don't have that atty, but a 9 wrap, 2mm coil is sounding a little biggish to squeeze into something called a "mini." A .5 coil is only 7 wraps on the same mandrel with 28 ga, and this may be the best you can do. With 30 ga, those coils on the same mandrel become 6 and 4 wraps respectively, and this sounds a bit more doable, plus the overall thickness will be slightly smaller as the wire is thinner. You'll have to give it a try, see what will fit. And be sure to test the resistance once you put the cap on and before you fire in case one of the coils is hanging out too far and touching the cap. Bear in mind also a .5 coil is the bottom limit, and there's no guarantee just how accurate is the ohmmeter in the SVD. Trying to squeeze it too close to .5 might see you rebuilding several times until you can get your ohmmeter and your mod to agree the resistance it high enough to work. If you find the post holes too big to clamp the smaller wire, the screws can be exchanged for some in the same thread 1 or 2 mm longer. Good luck and vape safe.
 

photogd

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Aug 4, 2015
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I took a look and I think the screws are plenty long, they go through the bottom of the hole all the way and then some. I think maybe it was problem with an older model. So are we agreed that 30ga wire is the best? Or should I stick with the 28ga wire?

And let's forget the 0.5ohm. How about 0.7 or 1.0? Should that be more do-able? I actually just tried a 0.5ohm non-rba tank on the SVD2.0 and it was saying "check battery" on anything above 16watts, and it's a brand new battery (battery was at 100% charge). Checked another brand new battery, and that one wouldn't run at all, at any wattage (battery was about 50%). So I'm guessing coiling the goblin mini to 0.5 is not going to work much better.

I'm coming from a 2.1ohm atomizer currently and I like it but... I feel it's lacking vapor production and hit. I tried a 0.3ohm RBA from a friend and OMG loved it. That's why I went and bought the goblin mini today since it was a good deal at the local store for an RBA. But if you guys think going 1.0ohm is not going to be low enough I may just scrap the idea all together. Tell me your thoughts.

I just checked the steam engine thing, if I did it right, it's saying 7 full wraps of 30ga on a 1/16 drill bit, for a dual coil setup, will product about 0.7ohm. And it's saying that each wire should be about 2 inches long. Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators Does that sound right? Or should it be 2 inches long total (1 inch for each coil)
 

photogd

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Aug 4, 2015
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Absolutely it will work. You should probably use 30g wire and wrap it to between 1ohm and 1.5 ohm and you will get a great vape!

edit: I have used my Goblin like this and it worked fine with plenty of room. It was 2mm coils for sure and about 12 wraps per side I think and may have been 15.

Do you have the goblin mini or regular goblin, and do you use SVD? just wondering
 

IMFire3605

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May 3, 2013
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0.5 on the SVD 2.0, 1 you'll need a battery like a Samsung 25R or better battery (at least 20amp continuous discharge capable), and then the coil config needs to be a single coil for 20watts to work. Dual coil I would not suggest anything below 1 to maybe 1.2ohms lowest for a dual coil, way to much current needed to power lower than that on the SVD 2.0 even though it is a DNA20 reconfigured. 28awg should be just fine, though check this website Steam Engine | free vaping calculators to help you figure out what you need to do to match your target, pay attention to the flame/vapor icon to the right in the coil section.

By my calculations using the calculators there.

28awg wire
2.5mm (about 1/4 inch) inner diameter
to hit 0.5ohms
you will need 2 coils in a 6/5 config, 6 half wraps top, 5 full wraps bottom
at 20 watts gives a heat flux of 178 mW/mm², with a nice colored green icon which is the sweet spot to use the icon as indicator

Ohm's Law calculator shows
0.5ohms
20watts
3.16 volts
and 6.32amps
which all within specs of the SVD 2.0 and DNA20 board in it.

hth
 

IMFire3605

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Sadly the trend atm for higher powered regulated mods are mostly in the box style configuration, think Pioneer 4 You that makes the IPV line of mods is coming out with a new mod here shortly that I think is a tube mod. But I also own more box mods than anything else due to asthetics, Sigelei Mini 30w, Sigelei 150w, IPV 2 V1 50w, IPV 3 V2 150w, Vaporshark rDNA40, beyond my 2 SVD 1.0 and single SVD 2.0, my only other tube mods are all mechanicals. I do use my regulated mods more nowadays, stepped back from the mechs for more power ability since regulated mods started knocking most mechs down as the powerhouses. My SVD 2.0 gets a lot of use like my Sig Mini while at home, out and about I use the IPVs, Sig150, and rDNA40 more.

I don't know, maybe an iStick 30w, iStick50w, or iStick40w TC??? Not exactly boxy looking, kind of a fuse of both a box and tube shape, after that maybe the Evic VT (60watts) possibly which is about the size of the iStick50w
 
can anyone tell me if this
Youde UD Goblin Mini Rebuildable Tank Atomizer

will work on this
Innokin iTaste SVD 2.0 Starter Kit

or will the wattage be too low @ 20w? I'm looking to make my coils about 0.5-1.0ohm (so with dual coil, that would be 0.25-0.5 per coil). I'm currently using an iclear30s which is 2.1ohm but I want to go the RBA route.

And I heard the 28ga wire is too thin to work in that goblin mini (screws don't close enough for that thin wire) but I'm worried 26ga will be too thick for the 20w to handle.

thanks
You can easily use 28g in a Goblin Mini I use 30g Ni200 in mine and have no problem trapping the wire. Just be careful and tighten screws slowly. Dual 28g kanthal 9-10 wraps on 2.5mm will give you around .8 or .9 ohms this will fit in the Goblin Mini .
 

photogd

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Aug 4, 2015
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Just completed my first build! I did end up getting the SVD2.0 and the biggest battery they had. I ended up getting 28ga wire. Wrapping the wire and fitting it in without touching anything was really hard, but I did it. I ended up doing 9 wraps on one coil and 10 on the other (just how it came out.) I wrapped it on a 1/16" drill bit. The one coil that's one wrap shorter does get orange quicker than the other one when dry firing it, but it doesn't seem to be affecting the vape.

My SVD2.0 is reading 0.6ohms.

The vape store talked me into getting the japanese organic cotton which are sheets, but I think I may have been happier to just use cotton balls. Reason? The tank is leaking! Like majorly leaking. But it only seems to leak when it's in my pocket. I lost about 2ml of fluid out of it when it was in my pocket for like 10 minutes. I read to use more cotton on the wicks, to block the fluid, but I couldn't really fit much more cotton in there than what I put in.


Other than the leaking, it seems to be working great. On 20w of power, I get MASSIVE clouds and a huge hit. I can use down to 15w of power no problem it seems, I just don't get as much vapor cloud and it takes a second or too long to heat the coils up. With the 1.6nicotine it's almost too much, makes me dizzy on a long drag, lol. Definitely much happier with this vape than the 2.1ohm non-RBA tank I had before.


Anyone got an idea with the leaking?

20150804_173606.jpg 20150804_173633.jpg
 

KentA

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And I heard the 28ga wire is too thin to work in that goblin mini (screws don't close enough for that thin wire) but I'm worried 26ga will be too thick for the 20w to handle.
I've coiled my goblin mini with 28 ga wire around 2.5 mil pin w/ 8-1/2 wraps for a 1.3 ohms single coil build.
The space is too limited, however, to use a 3.0 mil pin.
 

K_Tech

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I'm open to other mods that are not a SVD2.0 that may be more powerful, but I can't find any that are "sticks" (I don't like the box mods)
A few that come to mind are the SMOK BEC 'Pro" coming in at 50 watts, the Vamo V10 at 55 watts, and the Swabia DNA40 (but expensive as all get-out at €340).
Although the BEC Pro has some good reviews, I've seen some complaints about failures. I have no experience with the Vamo 10, but I still have a Vamo 3 that works find after a few years - although I had to replace the top cap when the threads wore out of it after a month. I think they've gotten better at it, tho, and the Vamo family has a pretty good presence in this forum.
 

photogd

Full Member
Aug 4, 2015
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Just an update on the leaking with the goblin mini, I was able to solve it. It's all about how your place the cotton. I tried many different configurations, and they all leaked oceans when the tank was sideways except one.

Make sure the tips of the cotton are just slightly in all 4 of the juice holes. If you don't put the cotton in the juice holes, or put it too far into the juice holes, you will get massive leaking with this tank.

I found the best way to do this is wet the cotton before screwing the chimney on, place the tips into the juice channels, and THEN screw the chimney on.

Boom. No leaks.
 
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