Good 3A Metal Push Button

[hificat101]

Hi guys,
Just ordered a mod today, and am thinking about swapping out the switch when it gets here. The mod is a VV 2-14500 box mod. What rating switch should I be looking for (3A? 4A?)? Looking for a big round metal button, possibly with some click.

Not sure yet about how much depth I have to work with. Perhaps I'll have to wait and measure.

Thanks

 

[Java_Az]

3 amp 12volt rating is more then enough for vaping. You really have to factor in the voltage along with the amp rating. Switches tend to have different voltage ratings. For example a 3 amp 12 volt rated switch can handle 36 watts as where a 3 amp 24 volt rated switch can handle 72 watts. So if you ran the 3 amp 24 volt rated switch @ 12 volts it can actually handle 6 amps. 12 volts 6 amps = 72 watts.

Not sure if this is going to be too big but here is a metal switch rated @ 2 amps 48 volts which = a 96 watt switch. Most folks vape between 7 to 10 watts depending on atomizer and voltage so it is way more then enough.
PV2 anti-vandal switches | water resistant vandal resistant | long life switch | www.e-switch.com

 

[hificat101]

Really appreciate you help and patience with a noob. Switch looks awesome.

I hadn't realized that I should be looking at power rating instead of just current rating. I wondered because in poking around I had seen a couple people using 2A switches, which had me wondering.

Thanks again. I supose its time to get off the bench, dust off my soldering iron, and get in the game.

 

[Cursed]

Hi there. (sorry for my english, it's not my native language, I hope I'll be clear)

I'm looking for switches with very low profile for month... Like Hificat101, I've ever heard that we must take current rating.

I was about to buy some switches (36V/2A) but amp was too low. The vendor told me that it is the same as 24V/4A and 12V/6A. But from some other forums, people says we can't change switch rating by different ohm's law imputs. If it says 36V 2A for example, even if we use them at 5V, the limit will ever be 2A. For example, 5V with 1.5 ohm atty, I reach 3.3A.

Another thing to keep in mind is the difference between AC and DC. Most of switch ratings are AC, and DC rating is not the same.

Java_Az, you've just erased all what I though knowing... I'm completely lost... ^^'
Because with your theory, there can be a lot of flexibility.

There is no assertion in my post (my lack of vocabulary impede myself to explain clearly what I wanna say ><)

 

[Java_Az]

Amps are not universal 2 amps @ 36 volts has alot more power/ heat / wattage then 2 amps @ 5 volts. You wont see a amp rating without a voltage rating along with it. If you ask me switches should be rated in wattage then it would universal across different voltages. Really thats all i do it convert the the amp and voltage rating to watts. Then i take the watts and my true working voltage and i get a true amp rating for the voltage i am going to use. Here is a a link to a very nice Ohms Law Calculator that might help you under stand this a bit better. http://www.the12volt.com/ohm/ohmslawcalculators.asp

 

[Cursed]

Thanks for your advice.

So, it seems there are 2 ways of thinking
Your theory explain why some shops are selling 2A switchs for modding. But I asked about what we discussed, and people maintain that theorically, every switch will work, no matter of V or A, but the question will be: until when? They say if I don't follow amp rating, my switch will die shortly, even if my total watts use is under the switch total watts.
It's without any repercussions if I press the switch twice a day for example, but this is more than 100-200 times per day.
They say, if every datasheet mention V and A rating instead of W rating, this is for a good reason. I can't use a 36V2A switch in a car with 12V5A for example, even if I reach 72W and 60W

Sorry for being so annoying with that, I need to understand this disagreement

 

[Java_Az]

Not really sure how else i can explain it to you. a 36 volt 2 amp switch is the same as a 12 volt 6 amp switch. So it would work fine in a 12 volt 5 amp application.

Lets try this. Say you take a fancy power supply unit used for electronic testing and set it to constant current mode. Take a 2.5 ohm atomizer and hook it up with 5 volts 2 amps you will get a nice vape off it. Now take the PSU and set it to 1 volt 2 amps and try to vape off it you wont get anything really. It will barely heat up the coil. No vapor at all. There is alot more heat in 5 volts 2 amps then 1 volt 2 amp. Now turn the PSU up to 10 volts 2 amps and try to vape it will be very very hot and nasty burnt tasting vaper. The atomizer will also burn out very quickly. For Contact rating of switches you are fooling yourself if your just taking in account the amps. You HAVE to LOOK at BOTH the AMPS AND VOLTS.

 

[Cursed]

I understand your point of view, and I really want to agree with it. Really! Because I can choose more switches that I thought.

It's just that other people tells me exactly the opposite
In their view, metal alloy used to make electric contact inside a switch defines amp rating, whatever volt input.
They say with 36V2A to keep this example, I can use 2 ohm atty with 4V but not 1.5 ohm with 4V because I go beyond amp rating. To sum up, they disagree with 36V2A = 12V6A because of material restraint.

This way of thinking is fundamentally different from your own vision, and this is why I need to understand, not for being an argumentative person

As a matter of fact, I tend to agree with you, but they just scared me
My knowledge of electronics is too shaky to act without asking first. I'll give a try.

Thanks for your patience

 

[WillyB]

... I wondered because in poking around I had seen a couple people using 2A switches, which had me wondering.

Thanks again. I supose its time to get off the bench, dust off my soldering iron, and get in the game.

Great switch, should fit and you can leave your soldering iron dusty.

Digi-Key - EG4722-ND (Manufacturer - PV5S64011)

 

[Java_Az]

I understand your point of view, and I really want to agree with it. Really! Because I can choose more switches that I thought.

It's just that other people tells me exactly the opposite
In their view, metal alloy used to make electric contact inside a switch defines amp rating, whatever volt input.
They say with 36V2A to keep this example, I can use 2 ohm atty with 4V but not 1.5 ohm with 4V because I go beyond amp rating. To sum up, they disagree with 36V2A = 12V6A because of material restraint.

This way of thinking is fundamentally different from your own vision, and this is why I need to understand, not for being an argumentative person

As a matter of fact, I tend to agree with you, but they just scared me
My knowledge of electronics is too shaky to act without asking first. I'll give a try.

Thanks for your patience

They are using a flawed logic. IF they are say that a 36volt 2 amps switch doesnt gain amps when using it at a lower voltage then if you switched it around they are saying you could use it @ 72 volts 2 amps or hell just slap 1000 volts 2 amps to that switch and watch it go up in smoke. Heat is what destroys contacts not amps by them selfs. 1 volt 2 amps is not very hot at all. 1000 volts 2 amps is 1000 times hotter then 1 volt 2 amps. Anyways i cant really explain it any better. Go talk to a electronics teacher and he will set you straight.

 

[Cursed]

Hi there.
I don't want to create conflict and I just quote what I heard by asking directly to a global push buttons manufacturer (Here).

A technician told me that datasheets with V and A is actually V or A. :/
For example we have 400V/5A. At 400V, the pushbutton will not bear 5A, but 1 or 2A
It will work, but with much less lifetime than mentionned (one year or less from what he said).
Tough.

Worse than policy discussion, each party have a different theory

 

[Java_Az]

Well the Tech doesn't know what he is talking about. Here is a screenshot of a data sheet from that company. They have multiple voltage and amps rating for the switch. You can clearly see as voltage goes down the amp rating rises on the switch.

http://products.eao.com/media/technische_daten/BR04_General_technical_data.pdf

 

[Cursed]

It's beyond belief...
"Your expert partner for human machine interfaces". *sickly smile*

 

[hificat101]

Great switch, should fit and you can leave your soldering iron dusty.

Digi-Key - EG4722-ND (Manufacturer - PV5S64011)

Thanks Willy. You guys rock. I imagine I'll still need my soldering iron for the bat terminals. Shucks, if I don't need to solder, how could I justify getting this:

Amazon.com: Hakko Soldering Station, FX-888: Home Improvement

 

[Cursed]

Hey

Another manufacturer sent me a reply today (I asked both EAO and APEM few days ago)

Here is what they said:

There are different ways to test contact rating, this is why there are differencies between manufacturers.
You can use our IP serie but lifetime will decrease.
Please check electrical specifications: http://www.apem.fr/files/apem/brochures/FRA/Interrupteur-bouton-poussoir-IP-FR.pdf

5A 28Vcc, 70.000 cycles
0,2A 48Vcc, 500.000 cycles
0,5A 48Vca, 500.000 cycles

 

[Akileze]

I know this is an older thread, but I've also been looking at some of those. Would they work with the GLV? Like these posted earlier?
PV2 anti-vandal switches | water resistant vandal resistant | long life switch | www.e-switch.com

Other question is, can I use a illuminated one?

 

[Java_Az]

Really could say if it would fit or not. Pretty sure these are the same as what goes in the silver bullet. The illuminated model would be the PV6 series PV6 anti-vandal switch | illuminated anti-vandal | water resistant anti-vandal | www.e-switch.com they are both pretty much the same size so if you have the room either would work. just have to add a ground to the switch for the led then a resistor from the output of the switch to the + led input

EDIT: remembered i had done this before. here is how the LED version would be hooked up

 

[Akileze]

Very cool, thanks! My hole for my switch is about 13mm, the top of the current switch is about 16mm.

 

[Java_Az]

Doubt it will work then unless you can drill it out to 16mm. Top is 17.8 mm. Then your going to need at least .800 " for depth or 20.32mm and that is cutting it close. Really you would want a bit more room for the depth to give you a little space to work with.

 

[Akileze]

If the ratings will work, I can find one with the demensions or close thereof I'm sure.