Got one for ya

[stevo_tdo]

Here you go, you crazy modders. Here's a link for you.

Portable Solar Panel Battery Charger: Virtual Village - US

Output from 1350 mah rechargeable polymer battery is 5.5v 1000mA. Sounds like someone could keep this around for camping trips or a day at the beach to power their passthrough. You can charge the battery before you go and stick it in the sun with the solar panel. Should work for all day vaping or until the sun goes down.

 

[dedmonwakin]

I was going to purchase some of those, but they were a little cheaper on ebay. Although it would be cool to have a solar charged battery. I don't feel like lugging around a case to protect the solar lens. Those things are delicate enough as it is, so of course the broader it is, the more like likely you'll end up cracking it. Plus, the charge time is rediculous as far as charging my solar power.

I ordered a few of these along with others packs.

2200mAh Mobile Power Lithium-ion Battery Phone MP3/MP4 - eBay (item 220402222514 end time Jul-22-09 23:41:16 PDT)

I fried one, hooking up a mod passthru that had a short. The battery works and so does the ability to recharge and check the energy level. So, I'll just mod it for direct use rather than a usb passthru pack.

It has one 18650 battery in it, and enough room for just a connector and a switch. I must say, it really looks fancy with the chrome plate trim and the rubber coated case, nice little fist pack.

Only thing is, it is 0.6a output. It requires a long drag like using an unmodded ecig, but it still produces great vapor and heat.

One of the working ones......

 

[500KV]

Only thing is, it is 0.6a output. It requires a long drag like using an unmodded ecig, but it still produces great vapor and heat.

Just wondering,
How do you keep it from burning up with your atomizer drawing 2 or three times that amount of current ?

 

[dedmonwakin]

Just wondering,
How do you keep it from burning up with your atomizer drawing 2 or three times that amount of current ?

I'm not exactly sure what you mean. I'm not an expert by any means when it comes to circuitry. The atty may require or peak at the supposed double amperage for best performance, but I don't see how a battery supply with lower amperage rating would burn out trying to supply more amperage to the atty.

The device is rated at 0.6A, so this is it's peak, even if the atty can take 1a or more for peak performance, 0.6amps is all the atty will get. Honestly, if anything, lower amperage will allow for less intense heating of the nichrome wire if it were compared to the drag time of using a 1 or more amperage output device.

So, basically, if I hook up a 12v device to the rated 5v battery supply, the battery is not going to try to supply 12v to the device nor will it in terms of amperage. This would be different if the atty was rated for less than 0.6Amps and the battery supply was putting out more than 0.6amps. The atty will then fry.

 

[500KV]

 

[dedmonwakin]

Did I lose you? I tend to lose myself as well, so it's only natural that I throw others off

 

[kinabaloo]

Can't remember the details of that battery off-hand, but I'm surprised the max. current is only 0.6A; perhaps some circuitry is setting that limit - the battery can surely supply more.

The atty will try to draw over 1A but if the battery/unit can't deliver, what happens is that the voltage falls. 500KV has a point in that an unprotected battery might burn up in such a scenario in which to the battery the lowresistance load would be like a short.

 

[dedmonwakin]

Can't remember the details of that battery off-hand, but I'm surprised the max. current is only 0.6A; perhaps some circuitry is setting that limit - the battery can surely supply more.

The atty will try to draw over 1A but if the battery/unit can't deliver, what happens is that the voltage falls. 500KV has a point in that an unprotected battery might burn up in such a scenario in which to the battery the lowresistance load would be like a short.

Would this be true for a protected battery? I've been using this pack for about a month. I've never had any problems with it other than frying it with a shorted DIY pass thru. There is definitely something restricting the output amperage, if I knew what I was doing, I'd take it out.

But now I'm confused. An atty is a passive device. It has the ability to draw over 1A, but how does it command any power supply to go into overhaul to try to provide the amperage, or even lower the voltage in attempts to do so?

If not enough voltage/amps is passing through the nichrome, it will either be lower in heat production or take longer to reach it's peak. If too much voltage/amps is passed through the nichrome, it will either get hot rapidly or too hot to sustain itself. How does this alter current flowing from any power source? It would appear that the affects would be isolated to the nichrome itself.

I would appreciate any enlightenment.

 

[kinabaloo]

Would this be true for a protected battery? I've been using this pack for about a month. I've never had any problems with it other than frying it with a shorted DIY pass thru. There is definitely something restricting the output amperage, if I knew what I was doing, I'd take it out.

But now I'm confused. An atty is a passive device. It has the ability to draw over 1A, but how does it command any power supply to go into overhaul to try to provide the amperage, or even lower the voltage in attempts to do so?

If not enough voltage/amps is passing through the nichrome, it will either be lower in heat production or take longer to reach it's peak. If too much voltage/amps is passed through the nichrome, it will either get hot rapidly or too hot to sustain itself. How does this alter current flowing from any power source? It would appear that the affects would be isolated to the nichrome itself.

I would appreciate any enlightenment.

Think of a battery as a water tank. The amount of water it can hold is the capacity (mAh). The height of water in the tank is the voltage (potential).
At the bottom of the tank is an outlet pipe; the bigger that is the more current can flow. This pipe is like the batteries own internal resistance. Technically it depends of physical size but also internal chemistry.

The current is determined by the load resistance AND the internal resistance. These two resistances will divide the voltage such that the output voltage will drop when the load resistance is low enough to be near (or even less than) the internal resistance.

'Internal resistance' is a simplified model; in practice it rises when the battery is under stress and without overload/short protection the chemistry might break down possibly leading to explosion/fire.

 

[kinabaloo]

I had a look at the link and I think I know the answer: it outputs 5v as it aims to simulate a usb supply in terms of voltage. So in scaling the lithium's 3.7 to 5v, and adding in some inefficiency in that process, the max current gets about halved.

You'd get better performance by connecting the atty straight to the battery. This should be possible but would be best done by someone with a little electronics knowledge for it would be best to cut the 3.7 to 5v conversion part of the circuit (if that is possible); because even without any load that will still draw some current (50-70mA; 0.05-0.07A); perhaps zero if it is smart enough to disable when no load is connected.

While still leaving the circuit in place for handling the battery charging.

In short, you can try this: leave everything as is, but wire the atty, via push button to the battery rather than the output socket/wires from the circuit board (just cut off or insulate them; leave connected to output socket if you like and dont need to remove that to make room for atty connector as then you can use the device for its original purpose too).

Then you will have what quite a few here are working towards - A NicoStick that is rechargable; and you can probably vape on it while it is charging
But let it charge for first 1/2 hour unhindered.

Nice looking unit too ($12+$10 shipping).

edit: perhaps i was a bit too cautious. Just connect the atty via switch to the battery. Then you'll have better performance and a good looking box that can be usb recharged

If I could get this locally I would make one tomorrow!

 

[dedmonwakin]

I had a look at the link and I think I know the answer: it outputs 5v as it aims to simulate a usb supply in terms of voltage. So in scaling the lithium's 3.7 to 5v, and adding in some inefficiency in that process, the max current gets about halved.

You'd get better performance by connecting the atty straight to the battery. This should be possible but would be best done by someone with a little electronics knowledge for it would be best to cut the 3.7 to 5v conversion part of the circuit (if that is possible); because even without any load that will still draw some current (50-70mA; 0.05-0.07A); perhaps zero if it is smart enough to disable when no load is connected.

While still leaving the circuit in place for handling the battery charging.

In short, you can try this: leave everything as is, but wire the atty, via push button to the battery rather than the output socket/wires from the circuit board (just cut off or insulate them; leave connected to output socket if you like and dont need to remove that to make room for atty connector as then you can use the device for its original purpose too).

Then you will have what quite a few here are working towards - A NicoStick that is rechargable; and you can probably vape on it while it is charging
But let it charge for first 1/2 hour unhindered.

Nice looking unit too ($12+$10 shipping).

The battery pack looks and handles great. I love it, but I still preffer my other pack that is 1amp out.

But, I may like it more once I over ride the lower amp.

The battery itself is peaked at 4.2v 1a, but my multimeter max's out at 1 amp.

The pcb is in the board itself, so I don't think I''ll connect directly to the battery.

But, I did find a compacitor?(lower left corner of the posted pic) that reads out the same at the solder joints as the output of the battery. I purposely shorted the pack out to see if the joints would relay the shut off, and yes, it read out at .2 volts where as the battery still shows 4.2v. So, I'll be connecting to this.

Thanks for the info, I think I have a better grasp of things.

 

[kinabaloo]

Here;s some diagrams to make it clearer. It's quite an easy change

What you have now:

After the change:

 

[kinabaloo]

The pcb is in the board itself, so I don't think I''ll connect directly to the battery.

What on earth does this mean?! lol

I think you should connect straight to the battery if it is a protected one; not sure about that, but it is easy to check; I have seen that lithium mentioned quite often.

But, I did find a compacitor?(lower left corner of the posted pic) that reads out the same at the solder joints as the output of the battery. I purposely shorted the pack out to see if the joints would relay the shut off, and yes, it read out at .2 volts where as the battery still shows 4.2v. So, I'll be connecting to this.

Not sure. I'd connect to the battery (if it is protected). Just as we normally do.

Use two crocodile leads and check each way. I suspect the capacitor point might be current limited (might be ok). Comapre to connecting to the battery directly. Careful not to short anything with the clips.

 

[dedmonwakin]

What on earth does this mean?! lol

I think you should connect straight to the battery if it is a protected one; not sure about that, but it is easy to check; I have seen that lithium mentioned quite often.



Not sure. I'd connect to the battery (if it is protected). Just as we normally do.

Use two crocodile leads and check each way. I suspect the capacitor point might be current limited (might be ok). Comapre to connecting to the battery directly. Careful not to short anything with the clips.

Sorry, I meant protection circuitry is incorporated in that entire board visible in the picture that is opened. Not incorporated in the wrapping of the battery.

When I shorted the battery pack by crossing the positive and negative on the capacitor joints as stated, the voltage dropped to 0-0.2v but still retained 4.2 directly from the battery itself.

If I were to hook up directly to the battery overriding the protection circuitry, will it still prevent the battery from over discharging?

 

[kinabaloo]

If you like, you can add a toggle switch to connect the battery to either the circuit board for charging OR the atty and atty button. Though this might not be necessary.

 

[kinabaloo]

Sorry, I meant protection circuitry is incorporated in that entire board visible in the picture that is opened. Not incorporated in the wrapping of the battery.

Are you sure ?
You might be right; there can be variations even when batteries have the same number.

Any markings on the battery?

When the voltage reads 4.2 at the capacitor, is there 5v at the usb output connector? If so, then you have the right location to connect the atty (at the capacitor)
That is, after short protection but before voltage conversion (and current limiting).

 

[dedmonwakin]

Are you sure ?
You might be right; there can be variations even when batteries have the same number.

Any markings on the battery?

When the voltage reads 4.2 at the capacitor, is there 5v at the usb output connector? If so, then you have the right location to connect the atty (at the capacitor)
That is, after short protection but before voltage conversion (and current limiting).

Unfortunately, the USB output is no longer functional. I fried something that supplied power to the USB out, by hooking up a diy pass through without checking for shorts. Everything else is still functional.

But, I'm certain that the PCB is not in the battery. If you short out this type pack and a couple others that I have, the out will be less that 0.2v and has to be reset by momentarily hooking up to be charged.

This particular pack, still has voltage at the battery that continually reads 4.2v while the capacitor reads .2v, but returns to 4.2v when momentarily reattached to a charging source.

 

[kinabaloo]

Connect across the capacitor and see if you get more power.

The charging control will be on the board but the short protection might be in the battery or on the board.

You mean you only ordered one?! Aaagh ...

Anyway, this is possible
So well worth spending a little time to work it out. Then we can all order one ...

 

[dedmonwakin]

Connect across the capacitor and see if you get more power.

The charging control will be on the board but the short protection might be in the battery or on the board.

You mean you only ordered one?! Aaagh ...

Anyway, this is possible
So well worth spending a little time to work it out. Then we can all order one ...

No sir, I have 4.

The seller is awesome might I add. I told her I accidently shorted this one out, and when I ordered another, she sent me an adidional one to replace the shorted at no charge.

What do you mean, connect across the capacitor?

 

[kinabaloo]

Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 2200 mAh rechargeable battery FULLY PROTECTED with PCB Lithium-Ion

Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 2200 mAh rechargeable battery FULLY PROTECTED with PCB Lithium-Ion (as low as) $5.29!