H Cigar Nemesis Clone Questions

[samcm010]

I got a Heat Treated H Cigar Nemesis Clone in a trade and it is really nice looking however... I picked up the magnets for the button and fiddled back and forth with the bottom and top adjustments to fit and get it to fire. I can not put very many atty's, cartotanks or rdas on it. The threading in the top cap is so short they all pass the threading and float in the top cap. If I screw the top pin in enoough to keep them snug there is a huge gap and in the case of my cartos the airflow is then covered up.
First question is if I order a genuine top cap is the threading the same? Second am I missing something? Third when adjusted to fire the bottom button is almost so far out it sticks when firing again am I missing something?
Thanks for the help. I hate to give up the really gorgeous heat treated tube but if I cant get it consistent I guess I would.

 

[heatX]

Figured I'd reply incase you haven't figured it out yet...

Keep in mind that the bottom contact pin is adjustable.

The threading IS the same. The clone is literally a 1:1 copy of the original nemesis, so genuine parts will fit just fine.

 

[crxess]

Problem is only 3 threads in the top cap. Many junk toppers have short threading and by the time you reach flush they are past the cap. This is not a problem with higher end devices - Genesis/RSST/Ithaka/ETC.
For smaller(19mm type) tanks just install ai air flow controller first and the atty on top of that. looks clean and keeps everything tight.

My IGO-L just got a new look.

 

[Dannyboy5691]

Figured I'd reply incase you haven't figured it out yet...

Keep in mind that the bottom contact pin is adjustable.

The threading IS the same. The clone is literally a 1:1 copy of the original nemesis, so genuine parts will fit just fine.

The bottom pin is not adjustable. It should be screwed tight into the button always. The top pin is adjustable for different attys. the switch screws into the bottom tube to accommodate different lengths set by a combination of the top pin and battery.

 

[crxess]

The bottom pin is not adjustable. It should be screwed tight into the button always. The top pin is adjustable for different attys. the switch screws into the bottom tube to accommodate different lengths set by a combination of the top pin and battery.

You are quite incorrect. People are screwing the pin tight due to the smooth threading allowing it to back out.
Chaffing the threads, wax, a tiny spot of blue loctite all will work to allow screw adjustment. With screw adjustment the thin polished ring may be left in place without a kick or tall battery. Mod looks much better and works exactly the same.

No need to debate, I use it this way and it works fine.

 

[jake88]

i haven't found an atty that doesn't fit I'm not sure why yours is like that try taking your battery out then screw the atty in and the top pin will unscrew as your atty is screwing in so you can have a flush look mine is hcigar i bought off ebay and as for the bottom button it does adjust

 

[heatX]

You are quite incorrect. People are screwing the pin tight due to the smooth threading allowing it to back out.
Chaffing the threads, wax, a tiny spot of blue loctite all will work to allow screw adjustment. With screw adjustment the thin polished ring may be left in place without a kick or tall battery. Mod looks much better and works exactly the same.

No need to debate, I use it this way and it works fine.

This. I did the same thing and prefer it setup this way. I've had zero issues when adjusting the bottom contact pin.


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[J Teezy]

just because the bottom pin can adjust doesn't mean it's suppose to be adjusted. The bottom pin should be all the way down. If you don't have a kick then you shouldn't use the kick ring. If you want to use the kick without one then you should use the upgraded contacts from fattdaddy. Using the thicker positive pin allows you to use the kick/beauty ring with no kick. People thick you are adjusting the throw by loosening the bottom negative pin, which you are not. You are loosening the tension of the throw, not the distance the switch needs to travel. The distance is the same, just may feel shorter because you don't have to push as hard to make it travel that distance. A shorter throw is achieved by having a thicker a negative pin (the head of the pin being thicker), which also comes in the pin upgrade kit from fatdaddy. By not having that negative pin all the way tighten down, you are asking for a potential problem.

Again, untightening the negative pin could allow you to use the kick ring but that is not the way you should go about it. If you are not wanting to buy the thicker posts from fatdaddy you are better off taking the kick ring out. It's called a kick ring because it's only meant to be used with a kick to give the extra room in length it needs in order to work with the negative posts all the tighten down. IF you have a kick ring you will notice that if you put the negative pin all the way down, install a kick with the ring all is fine. You take that kick out and leave the ring there you will not make connection because you can't make up the distance needed. Yes you can if you loosen the negative pin but that's not what you should be doing.

 

[UncleChuck]

I'm not sure what "should" exactly means in this case.

I couldn't care less what Atmomixani wanted the pin to be used for. It's only purpose is to conduct current from the negative terminal. This isn't rocket science we are dealing with here, the pin IS adjustable, that's just a simple fact. Shying away from adjusting it just because the manufacturer didn't intend for that makes little sense.

I like how it looks with the thin polished ring, but with that in place it doesn't fire without adjusting the bottom pin. It's loose in stock configuration when backed out, I just took a thin strip of mesh and shimmed the hole with it. Screw stays in place, conductivity is completely unaffected (tested before and after, as I was worried about voltage loss shoving the mesh in there) and it looks/works exactly how I want.

So could you define "should" here, because maybe I'm missing something. The whole idea of doing things exactly how the manufacturer wants/intends to is ridiculous, they aren't gods, and quite frankly I think I'm a better engineer than some of them based on designs I've seen. Nnot talking atmomixani here, it's obvious they know what they are doing, but just because the pin wasn't intended to be used as an adjustable one doesn't mean it doesn't function perfectly as such.

Backing off the post also lightens the button, which I prefer. Hair-trigger all the way for my mechs.

 

[J Teezy]

Yes it is adjustable because the pins are screws, so with that reasoning the whole mod is adjustable cause the use threads. My cars engine is adjustable cause parts are held on by bolts with threads therefore does that mean they shouldn't be tightened down? My deck is held together by screws so therefore it's adjustable so should I just put screws in until the threads catch? My house has all kinds of screws holding walls and cap together so my house is also adjustable. See the point here? The kick ring is for a kick. Some call it a beauty ring but it's for a kick. So yes you can use it without a kick but to make contact you will have to loosen the negative post. If you had a kick that post would need to be tightened down hence it wouldn't be adjusted it would be down. Take the kick ring off with no kick being used and the device works as intended with negative pin tight all the way. So yes the kick ring adds to the appearance but you shouldn't use it without a kick by loosening your negative post.

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[TheReign]

I don't get why you feel like arguing with people who CLEARLY know what they are talking about from experiance. Honestly it's pointless to argue about it. Get over it, Move on with whatever your doing. People will do it the way they want to do it no matter the arguement, You have your way an they have theirs, Honestly It's just hilarious watching people get mad over silly things Lol

 

[crxess]

I'll see your extra parts and Raise you a drop of Blue Loctite.

Mechanic/Technician over 40 years. Lots of screws are used for adjustment, not just assembly.
You could also use small washers under the screw head and tighten accomplishing BOTH VIEWS.

 

[dwcraig1]

just because the bottom pin can adjust doesn't mean it's suppose to be adjusted. The bottom pin should be all the way down. If you don't have a kick then you shouldn't use the kick ring. If you want to use the kick without one then you should use the upgraded contacts from fattdaddy. Using the thicker positive pin allows you to use the kick/beauty ring with no kick. People thick you are adjusting the throw by loosening the bottom negative pin, which you are not. You are loosening the tension of the throw, not the distance the switch needs to travel. The distance is the same, just may feel shorter because you don't have to push as hard to make it travel that distance. A shorter throw is achieved by having a thicker a negative pin (the head of the pin being thicker), which also comes in the pin upgrade kit from fatdaddy. By not having that negative pin all the way tighten down, you are asking for a potential problem.

Again, untightening the negative pin could allow you to use the kick ring but that is not the way you should go about it. If you are not wanting to buy the thicker posts from fatdaddy you are better off taking the kick ring out. It's called a kick ring because it's only meant to be used with a kick to give the extra room in length it needs in order to work with the negative posts all the tighten down. IF you have a kick ring you will notice that if you put the negative pin all the way down, install a kick with the ring all is fine. You take that kick out and leave the ring there you will not make connection because you can't make up the distance needed. Yes you can if you loosen the negative pin but that's not what you should be doing.

I'd put in my two cents but you seem to have it under control.