Hades Mod Eats Batteries For Breakfast!

[Dallas White]

Okay so here it is,

I have a hades mod that I've been using for a while now with no problems. After having some connection issues, I opened up the top cap and unscrewed the contact to see that the spring inside that pushes up against the pin looked burnt and pinched, so I went online last night to see if I needed the spring. After poking around everyone, including the manufacturer of the clone I have, recommends the removal of that spring, so I did just that.

After some adjustments of the contact so the battery could make contact with it, it worked fine... Until it started to have less and less powerful fires and then flat out stopped working. This all happened in a matter of maybe a half hour by the way. So I checked all the contacts and connections and everything was good, but nada, then I tried it in my Akuma 26650, still nothing. Then I slapped the battery in the charger to see that it had no read out on the charger- it just said 0.0V which seemed impossible to me because it was fully charged when this all started and my purple 26650 efests have a couple hours until they reach 3.8V.

So I just gave up on it and thought it was just a crap battery, so I put it aside. Now here's the kicker.
I put in the other battery I have that was fully charged, and as expected, everything worked great and she was hittin hard. After that I threw the battery on the charger for the night.

Now, this morning I tried everything again- all was well. Then on my way to class this morning I thought I might be having connection issues again because the device was experiencing the same symptoms as last night, but after playing around, I realized it was probably the battery again. When I got home I checked it on the charger and it measured 0.0V like the other one.

So now that both of my batteries have kicked the bucket, I'd like to see what some pros might inquire about this. It's mad bizarre yo.

Things to keep in mind:

• Both of the batteries are purple 26650 efests.
• The mod was my Hades 26650 copper clone that has always been reliable until this happened.
• The RDA I use is a plume veil 28.5mm clone, again is always reliable and never any issues except for the positive post that slides up and down with pressure, which does not affect the performance of the device.
• My current build is 2 dual parallel coils that measure up to 0.3 ohms. I've been using this build for a while now.
• I always make sure batteries are fully charged before use, and I make sure they never drop below 3.8V.
• The batteries nor the mod got hot to the touch.
• The batteries will not charge or discharge.
• All I did was remove the spring in the top contact and adjust it so the battery would make contact when I pressed the button, until then everything I've mentioned I've been using flawlessly.
• My favorite color is blue.

So if anyone can drum up a possible explanation for this mystery, I'll give you a Scooby snack.

 

[classwife]

Moved to Batteries and Chargers from Simple Solutions



Simple Solutions is to assist the Beginning Vaper with getting started

 

[Kevin littell]

You need a voltmeter.


I'd want to know 3 things: (no battery in the mod)

1: resistance from the center pin to the case of the mod on lowest scale firing button untouched. Do this and wiggle the mod around a bit....It should show open.

2: resistance from the center pin to case fire button pressed.It should read a dead short.

3: install a working battery in the charger and I want DCV across the battery.


Either, the mod is shorting or the charger isnt charging.

 

[Dallas White]

Thanks a million for the response,

I'll have to grab a multimeter from a friend this weekend, and I'll see what I can do.

I'm thinking it might be the battery contact because it is a flat top and they can have connection issues if too much pressure is applied to it. So what I'll do is use the multimeter to see if the main part of the battery under the contact will show any voltage.

If it does, then I can salvage the batteries. I'm thinking I'll do that by soldering the contact to the battery itself to re establish a connection, but I'm not sure of how safe that is...

 

[Rickajho]

Thanks a million for the response,

I'll have to grab a multimeter from a friend this weekend, and I'll see what I can do.

I'm thinking it might be the battery contact because it is a flat top and they can have connection issues if too much pressure is applied to it. So what I'll do is use the multimeter to see if the main part of the battery under the contact will show any voltage.

If it does, then I can salvage the batteries. I'm thinking I'll do that by soldering the contact to the battery itself to re establish a connection, but I'm not sure of how safe that is...

Not safe. The heat from a soldering iron can cause internal damage to the battery construction, only making a bad situation even worse. There is good reason why battery tabs are tack welded onto batteries and not soldered in place.

How do you know the batteries are reading 0.0 volts at this point if you don't have a meter? What charger is involved?

If you did manage to drain the batteries to zero volts, and you don't know what caused it, best practice is to ditch the batteries. Depending on the charger you are using it's highly unlikely you will get them to recover to a working voltage anyway. Nitecore I2 and i4 chargers cannot recover under voltage batteries.

 

[Kevin littell]

Thanks a million for the response,

I'll have to grab a multimeter from a friend this weekend, and I'll see what I can do.

I'm thinking it might be the battery contact because it is a flat top and they can have connection issues if too much pressure is applied to it. So what I'll do is use the multimeter to see if the main part of the battery under the contact will show any voltage.

If it does, then I can salvage the batteries. I'm thinking I'll do that by soldering the contact to the battery itself to re establish a connection, but I'm not sure of how safe that is...

Don't do that please...

Get that meter....In fact, go get your own if your gonna use mechanical mods. They are inherently safe but have disastrous failings.

Batteries and the mod should be closely inspected EVERY time the battery is changed. This includes the batteries for signs of arching and wrapper damage and the mod should be examined for signs of arching, heat and wear in the switch. You should never use either if you find these signs until you find and fix the source.


Retire the mod if you cant find the problem.Retire the batteries, they've been over discharged....The teeth and finger you save will be your own. How to Prolong Lithium-based Batteries - Battery University

 

[Kevin littell]

Hey,


Schtuff happens...


These things are basicly pipe bombs that make nice vapor.


Spend alittle time and just a few more dollars and protct your investment, limbs and home.



And if you want an eye opener, buy a cheap battery,charge it then short it out so it will vent.


There is a youtube video if you care to search for it.

 

[Dallas White]

Not safe. The heat from a soldering iron can cause internal damage to the battery construction, only making a bad situation even worse. There is good reason why battery tabs are tack welded onto batteries and not soldered in place.

How do you know the batteries are reading 0.0 volts at this point if you don't have a meter? What charger is involved?

If you did manage to drain the batteries to zero volts, and you don't know what caused it, best practice is to ditch the batteries. Depending on the charger you are using it's highly unlikely you will get them to recover to a working voltage anyway. Nitecore I2 and i4 chargers cannot recover under voltage batteries.

Okay thanks for the save there.

As for my charger I have a Luc V4, and when I plug the batteries in it shows the voltage, that's how I see that the batteries measure 0.0V, but I'll have a proper reading once I get that multimeter, so I can test the batteries and the mod.

I'll post my results that Kevin wanted ASAP.

 

[Dallas White]

Hey,


Schtuff happens...


These things are basicly pipe bombs that make nice vapor.


Spend alittle time and just a few more dollars and protct your investment, limbs and home.



And if you want an eye opener, buy a cheap battery,charge it then short it out so it will vent.


There is a youtube video if you care to search for it.

Yeah I'm not looking to take risks with these things. I handle any lithium battery with as much care as I can given my resources, since I know how nasty those suckers can be.

I'm just trying to get a few thoughts on my situation so I can take the best course of action. Just a tad disappointed since the Hades is such a nice mod lol.

 

[Kevin littell]

I have a 17 dollar fastech Nemesis clone that I've been playing with for about a month now.


If I can run it till next August without any blisters,dental work or calls to fire department I'm gonna go buy a Authentic as a birthday present.I like this clone because its a simple switch, top pin and everything fits tightly. I have not seen a single scratch on the battery poles nor have I seen any metal shavings in the switch.


In Mech's your looking for simplicity in design and consistent error free performance.


(they also have a 26650 Nemesis clone too cheap cheap)

 

[Dallas White]

I have a 17 dollar fastech Nemesis clone that I've been playing with for about a month now.


If I can run it till next August without any blisters,dental work or calls to fire department I'm gonna go buy a Authentic as a birthday present.I like this clone because its a simple switch, top pin and everything fits tightly. I have not seen a single scratch on the battery poles nor have I seen any metal shavings in the switch.


In Mech's your looking for simplicity in design and consistent error free performance.


(they also have a 26650 Nemesis clone too cheap cheap)

Good looks, my friend also enjoys his nemesis. I personally like my Akuma 26650 as well, the only reason I prefer the Hades over it is because it looks nicer and the Akuma is mad heavy, even without the battery.

But along with doing a multimeter test this weekend, I'm also going to clean it up a bit. Any recommendations for cleaning contacts and other parts of the mod?

 

[Kevin littell]

Your not going to believe this....



Cardboard. It polishes the metal without removing alot of material and it doesnt change the metal chemically.

1000 grit emory cloth for chunks.....


No chem's in the threads though.

 

[ronnbert]

Will have to try the whole cardboard tip. Thanks!

 

[Dallas White]

Your not going to believe this....



Cardboard. It polishes the metal without removing alot of material and it doesnt change the metal chemically.

1000 grit emory cloth for chunks.....


No chem's in the threads though.

Wow no kidding, but hey if it works it works. Thanks again, you're on fire with all these questions.

 

[Dallas White]

You need a voltmeter.


I'd want to know 3 things: (no battery in the mod)

1: resistance from the center pin to the case of the mod on lowest scale firing button untouched. Do this and wiggle the mod around a bit....It should show open.

2: resistance from the center pin to case fire button pressed.It should read a dead short.

3: install a working battery in the charger and I want DCV across the battery.


Either, the mod is shorting or the charger isnt charging.

Okay so I managed to snag a multimeter, the only thing I don't have is a working battery at the moment. However I can do the other thing you mentioned.

Would you mind being a little more explicit on what to do and how to do it please?

 

[Kevin littell]

Ohms lowest scale from the Centerpin to the case button not pressed.....should be a WAO (wide ... open).

Then play with the button. It should stay that way....I forgot with no battery in it there not going to be any continuity....

Take the top cap off and go centerpin to case.....should be WAO... wiggle it about a bit...It should stay that way.


If its a switch short youll find it in the switch....If its a case or top pin short you'll need a battery to find it.

 

[Kevin littell]

Then beg borrow or steal a battery...


Centerpin on DCV to case no button 0vdc

push button 4.2 volts....

Release button 0 vdc with NO hesitation.....

if volts dont go away its probably a top pin short

Play with button too....volt must go away when switch released....

 

[Dallas White]

Then beg borrow or steal a battery...


Centerpin on DCV to case no button 0vdc

push button 4.2 volts....

Release button 0 vdc with NO hesitation.....

if volts dont go away its probably a top pin short

Play with button too....volt must go away when switch released....

Well everything checks out with the mod so far, the only thing I noticed without the battery is that when I have one lead on the firing contact and the case it shows 0ohms, which I believe means its a dead short, but that's probably because the contact, the button, and case are all touching, so no shock there.

But in curiosity I opened up the switch to find my magnets were busted... Think that has anything to do with it?

Also I took the liberty of checking out the batteries too. Here's what I got:
Both batteries still have voltage to them when I touched both the battery contact and under the battery contact with the batteries casing/negative end.

I was kinda surprised to see that, but I tried the battery in both my akuma mod and my hades mod again and switched between both RDAs I have to see if anything would happen. Of course everything is the same as before and nothing worked or fired, HOWEVER, the battery did have a voltage drop when I measured it again, which I don't really understand how that could have happened.

The other thing is that when I measured the resistance between the battery's contact and it's case/negative end, as well as under the battery contact and the case/negative, it was wide open. But of course when both leads were on the case of the battery I got a dead short (0ohms).

I should be receiving my new batteries in the mail tomorrow so I'll be able test that second part real soon.

 

[Kevin littell]

Well,

If you have a short from the center pin to the case on the top cap You have found your problem.


I'd find a fix for that top cap short or retire the mod.

 

[Dallas White]

I'm pretty sure it's the top pin. Every time a battery goes in that thing it kills it, I put one of my new ones in there to test it and it died again like that. I don't know what else I can do to fix that top pin so I'm calling it quits on her.