Hard draw from my 510

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bobbysox10

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Jan 17, 2010
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Ok so my 510 is requiring a much harder draw then usual. I suspected it was flooded blew it out lots of juice came out so i loaded up the cart and it was fine for a few drags and now its back. I tried blowing it no juice came out so I dropped 2 drops on the bridge and still getting the hard draw. The atty heats up. It vapes decent(johnsons is so inconsistant) any suggestions other than switching juice lol.
 

Shortstuff116

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It sounds like your atty may need a really good cleaning and there are many ways of doing that. But when I blow out my attys I do it from both ends, putting the threaded brass end completely inside my mouth so that both the center hole and the two tiny holes on the sides of the threads are open to blow air through and catch any liquid in a tissue, then blow from the cart end and wipe the threads really clean.

:thumb:
 

CaptJay

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Jan 3, 2010
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I have one that does this - had to abandon the filled cart (I use it still, with no filler, as a mouthpiece) and use THAT atty for direct dripping only. Have you tired direct dripping on it?
(btw I did clean that atty in alcohol, blew it out, dried it 24 hrs etc - still doesnt like carts that much tho it seems better than it was)
 

Scottbee

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Marctwo

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Fair warning..... if you try everything (cleaning, new cartridge, etc..) and it still has a hard draw: you may have overheated the atty and melted an internal component (venturi insulating disk).
You can actually see the condition of this disk/hole through the bottom of the atty. You may need a magnifier and good light though. ;)
 

scrat

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Aug 8, 2009
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I find most 510 atomizers have too hard a draw.

A solution is to enlarge the two holes at the bottom of the atomizer.

I don't know what metal they're made of but they're very malleable.

If you get some toe nail scissors put one of the blades in the hole, apply a little pressure and rotate a few dozen times it will grind away some of the metal and double the size of the holes resulting in a much easier draw.

I can't post links so go to imgur and add this to the end of the url:

d3oOq.jpg
 

TheRealZero

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Jul 28, 2009
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I am hoping someone can help...I was pretty sure I burned out my atomizer, so I bought a new one....AND NOTHING is happening! It appears that all other things are ok, I have put on a new filter, and I still can't draw anything out! Getting very upset..anyone with any ideas?:shock:


Do you mean that the vapour production is low or that the atomizer doesn't even heat up? One of the 510 batts i got with my starter kit last year stop working with any of my attys, so i wrote it off and shelved it....then last month i compared the working one and the non-working one, noticed that the seal in the connection looked a little....Im not sure, pressed in I suppose? It's manual so it's suppose to be sealed...Any way i just fiddled around with it and and a paper clip, dug around a bit and voila connection re-established.

</totally scientific and well-informed response>
 

sjohnson

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Nov 12, 2009
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Yup!

And if you've got a set of numbered drills and a small chuck, you can open a melted one back up!
I just checked a new 510 atomizer, the hole is slightly larger than a number 60 and slightly smaller than a number 59. Pin vises are cheap (about $5) and are made to hold small drill bits, pins, very small files.

But what's behind the hole? Am I risking drilling the coil or ????

(Edit - here's a pin vise and drill bits. Tiny all the way up to very small. $9 + S&H: http://www.widgetsupply.com/page/WS/PROD/pin-vise-jeweler/BBL50 )
 
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Scottbee

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I just checked a new 510 atomizer, the hole is slightly larger than a number 60 and slightly smaller than a number 59. Pin vises are cheap (about $5) and are made to hold small drill bits, pins, very small files.

But what's behind the hole? Am I risking drilling the coil or ????

The correct drill for going up the center hole and opening up the insulator disk is a #52. But, a 1/16" will work just fine. Just go up through the plastic. If you go further you will get into the bottom layer of metal mesh under the ceramic coil pot.. and then into the coil pot itself. Kinda hard to do any real damage though.

A #60 would be the right drill for opening up the two small side breather holes. You only need to do that if you can see any of the center insulator (white plastic) through the holes. If you go too far, you start cutting into the center (+) pole contact... no harm done at all.
 

Scottbee

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My new 510 atty must be on the tight side. I also must say I opened up the side holes of my "working" atomizers with a #55 a couple of months ago. I don't like a hard draw and that helped a bit. I may enlarge them even more.

Opening up the side holes will only do so much. The limiting factor becomes the slots on the top of the battery which are typically .010" deep (but this varies from battery to battery). On the eGo/Tornado that number was changed to about ~.015". But then you put the cone on and the draw tightens back up again.

Something must be seriously wrong if the hole in the center plastic disk will only handle a #59 or #60 drill. That's WAY small.
 
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sjohnson

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Nov 12, 2009
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Oh, sorry, I opened the slots at the same time, using a jeweler's file. The limiting factor in my case is that hole in the plastic part. Now that I know I can make it larger, I'll play around with the side holes and that center hole until I have the draw I prefer. Thanks!

The difference between the #60 and #52 is only 0.02". Perhaps a bit of flash was left over from the molding, I don't know. It's easy enough to drill it larger.
 

Scottbee

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The difference between the #60 and #52 is only 0.02". Perhaps a bit of flash was left over from the molding, I don't know. It's easy enough to drill it larger.

Yes.. but in this case, .023" (.040 vs. .063) is quite a bit! The area goes as the square of the diameter.

Remember.. all of the air that goes through those TWO side holes has to also go through that ONE center hole.

Have fun and be careful! ;)
 
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