Having issues here, any help is appreciated!

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TrevSpitz

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Nov 24, 2014
13
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Lansing, MI
Hey guys back again with another question or two, so here goes:

I'm having some trouble with dual coil builds lately. I know that building two coils with a resistance of say 2A would end up with me having a 1A (A meaning ohms) build. Because the resistance is cut in half if you use two coils I guess. So the issue I'm having is that I wanna build a dual coil on my RDA with a resistence of 1.3A, so I then go to build two coils with resistances of 2.6A(because it will be cut in half), but then when I finally put my coils on the RDA it reads as a sub-ohm coil and then I'm confused. I'm testing and reading he resistance of my coils on my MVP 2.0 as well. Which leads me into my second issue..

Just lately actually, my MVP 2.0 has not been reading RDA or clearomizers at all. I'll pop on a tank that I've been using since I got my MVP and it will read as "NON" when i try to read the ohms. And it wont let me fire and vape when it does this. I've read somewhere,(probably here), that the MVP 2.0 has an issue where the pin on the actual mod (the one that connects to the tank or RDA) actually begins to sink down and move away from the connection of the tank/RDA after a while of using it. Is there any permanent fix to this? It's getting quite annoying not being able to accurately check my ohms or vape when the tank that's on there was just working on it fifteen minutes ago.

Any help is appreciated, you all are all awesome for helping me out. Thanks again!
 

Neolithium

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Nov 15, 2014
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What guage wires are you using as well as what are you wrapping your coils around? There's a good baseline guide here that will help give you a pretty good guesstimate for building coils:

Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

IE- 1.3 ohm dual coil setup with 30 gauge Kanthal wire wrapped around a 5/64th drill bit, you're looking for 11 wraps on each coil.

Also - You COULD be having center pin issues with your RDA on the MVP if you're sure your coils are built correctly, another thing to potentially look into; especially if a multimeter or ohm reader is telling you the setup is good at 1.3ohms.
 

TrevSpitz

Full Member
Nov 24, 2014
13
2
Lansing, MI
What guage wires are you using as well as what are you wrapping your coils around? There's a good baseline guide here that will help give you a pretty good guesstimate for building coils:

Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

IE- 1.3 ohm dual coil setup with 30 gauge Kanthal wire wrapped around a 5/64th drill bit, you're looking for 11 wraps on each coil.

Also - You COULD be having center pin issues with your RDA on the MVP if you're sure your coils are built correctly, another thing to potentially look into; especially if a multimeter or ohm reader is telling you the setup is good at 1.3ohms.

Oh darn, I knew I missed something. I am using 28 gauge Kanthal A-1 wire
 

Neolithium

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Oh darn, I knew I missed something. I am using 28 gauge Kanthal A-1 wire

Yowza, even wrapping around a 2mm screwdriver for the coils, you're looking at 17 wraps per coil to hit that resistance. 30 guage would be able to drop the number of wraps to something a little more manageable depending on what (again) you're coiling around for size.
 

InTheShade

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Apr 26, 2013
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Yowza, even wrapping around a 2mm screwdriver for the coils, you're looking at 17 wraps per coil to hit that resistance. 30 guage would be able to drop the number of wraps to something a little more manageable depending on what (again) you're coiling around for size.

And it would be a lot of wire for your MVP to heat up. Even if you could get it around the resistance you are talking about, I doubt you will get a satisfactory vape. With an MVP, you might be better off sticking to a single coil around 1.2-1.5oms.

By the way, if you say 2A meaning 2 ohms, you will confuse a lot of people - we often discuss batteries and many will think you are talking about amps. I would just say 2 ohms or 2Ω
 

TrevSpitz

Full Member
Nov 24, 2014
13
2
Lansing, MI
Oh alrighty, I don't know how to make that little ohm symbol appear so i'll just type it out. But I wrap fairly big coils actually, I use either a 3mm bit or one bit that I have which I believe is 4.7625mm thick. Using 28 gauge Kanthal. And I'm not wrapping them because I want them to fire on my MVP, I'm just using the MVP to test my ohms because the MVP has a built in ohm reader. You just press the two buttons on the side at the same time I believe
 

InTheShade

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Oh alrighty, I don't know how to make that little ohm symbol appear

Don't tell anyone but I just spent 5 minutes figuring it out. Eventually I just did a google search and copy and pasted it in the post :laugh:

I'm not trying to give you a hard time, I just wanted to avoid confusion - mainly for myself.
 

Susan~S

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Mar 12, 2014
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Here's a video on a center pin fix for your MVP: Center Pin Issue - Fixing a non firing eGo battery

If you continue to have problems, buy a few spacers from MadVapes. They solve all connectivity problems. Just drop one into the 510 well of your battery and you're good to go! You can thank ECF member GinnyTx for this little tidbit!:)
 

InTheShade

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So trying to solve this issue, go ahead and mount one coil and see what it reads, then remove it and mount the other. Make sure both coils meter what you think they should. The mount them both and make sure the resistance is half of the two added together.

Basically, make sure that each coil is what it is supposed to be.

If they are, then you know the issue is with either your mounting or with the atomizer itself. You've already said the MVP isn't reading correctly, so the best advice may well be to just go and buy yourself an ohm reader and / or a multimeter.

If they are reading correctly, is there any chance you can post a picture of the build? Maybe tell us what RDA it is, what mod you are going to be using it on, the battery brand and spec and all that good stuff. The more info the better.
 

invisiblehand13

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Nov 15, 2014
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Also if all else fails, innokin has some great customer service and I have heard of several people getting in touch with them for a warranty return, they just need to hear it was bought in the last 6 months and they will usually warranty it out for you, although you will stuck without it while it is being refurbed for you, just a last ditch effort if all else fails...used to use this trick with sony and my old ps2 consoles...lol just say it was purchased within the warranty limit and you are golden, they have no real way of trackin if it was longer and even if they do they will not usually go through the effort, they would rather keep you as a customer...just IMO
 
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