Heatsink/Cooling Atty for better vapor production.

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motelgrim

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I browsed the existing threads and there are posts out there about heatsinks and trying to cool the atty for the sake of cooling it but there aren't any that I could find about cooling them for better smoke production.
My dual coil carty just died a terrible death and I was forced to go back to an old pink joye 510 atty I had lying around and dripping instead of tanking from a carto.
As the atty got hotter, the vapor got crummier and the longer I waited between vapes the better the vapor. Chain vaping was out of the question. This got me to thinking...
So I have a head sink from a laser that's just about a perfect fit for an atty which I use for aesthetic purposes.
I laid the mods atty/heatsink on a chunk of ice and started vaping and the vapor production was off the charts. You could chain vape all you wanted. 3 drops of juice was burned dry in under a minute chain vaping massive plumes of fog.

You aren't going to get that sort of performance on room air temperatures but you certainly can do better than a plain atty with a drip dip stuck in the end.

I'll be drawing up some ideas tonight of a redesigned atty.
Without attempting to re-design the wheel, so to speak, the coil and cup portion will be the standard as I have no desire nor means to create an atty from scratch, although a rebuildable atty is likely to be the natural path this line of thinking will take.

That said, heatsinks and air-pathing will be the order of the evening.

Here comes the stream of consciousness bit....
The vapor typically goes from coil to mouthpiece to mouth within inches to less than an inch of distance depending on configuration.
What kind of impact on vapor quality is to be had by routing that vapor through cooling paths?
I know that with tobacco or other herbs, that the longer the path to your lungs, the staler the smoke gets.
Does this apply to vapor?

In my ice tests the vapor was exceptionally sweet and flavorful. The juice was a mix of many things (when I empty a tank for whatever reason, it goes in the same bottle as the other tanks go when they get emptied) and this mix was primarily lime and cherry based. The vapor was cool and delicious for lack of a better word.

So...pathing...

intake air ports from (currently) bottom of atty, across coil, then funnel it all through a cooling coil such as the copper coils you see on stills or in refrigeration units....these coils would have to be outside the atty though. Otherwise you just heat up what you are trying to cool. Then from the coils back to the mouthpiece interface which would be heatsinked as well, ideally, then to a tip.

All this on a micro scale of course. I wouldn't want a 2 lb whiskey still on the end of my silver bullet.
Now, if the coils are submerged in liquid that would greatly increase thermal transfer.
Heat pipes on CPU coolers are actually filled with a liquid which, when heated, boils and creates some kind of cooling effect.

Again, I'm thinking out loud..

Ideas?
 

sailorman

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Lots of cold vapor? Is that what you're shooting for? Sounds like you need a triple coil 1.5ohm carto run on a 3.7V battery. That'll give you even more cold vapor than a dual coil on a 3.7V battery.

A lot of people like a cooler vape for flavor, especially a fruit flavored juice. It sounds like that's what you were experiencing. I don't know how well that'll go over with people who like a warm vapor.

As far as the atty overheating when you chain vape while dripping, I think that can be overcome by using a good dripping atty. I chain vape my Ikenvapes 3.5ohm attys with about 4.5-5 volts all the time. I could knock down the voltage if I wanted an even cooler vapor. It does use a lot of juice too.
 
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motelgrim

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There are rebuildables with longer and with shorter vapor path; those with longer path typically deliver colder vape, and less flavor. Basically, cooling equals condensation and flavor loss. At least in my experience.

Hmm. The path I was vaping was very short. 3/4" or so for the atty itself and a ming stainless drip tip.
The vape was very cold due to the ice of course. I experienced more flavor than normal in this case.
Obviously I could use a larger sample size for my experiement, than 2 times of which I've tested this ;)
 

motelgrim

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I should get a variable volt or at least an SVR or EVO so I can do the 4-5V vaping @ 3.5 ohm.
I'm anxious to try other mods. Currently, I have The Bolt and, while it works fine, I want something a bit more elegant and robust.

Let me ask you, compared to 1.5/7 ohm vaping dual/single coil cartos, whats the biggest differcence to you, in vaping the higher resistance attys at higher voltages?
Isn't it just 6 of one, a half dozen of the other or are there other considerations and benefits or going higher volt/ohm?
 

sailorman

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The biggest advantage to using higher voltage/ohms is with a variable voltage. With a higher voltage/ohm, each .1V increment changes the Watts by a smaller increment than it would if you used a lower voltage/resistance.

With a higher voltag/resistance, you also draw less current for an equivalent number of watts, thus straining the battery less.

5 x 5 / 3 = 8.33 watts, 1.67A
3.5 x 3.5 / 1.5 = 8.17 watts, 2.33A
 

sailorman

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...
Let me ask you, compared to 1.5/7 ohm vaping dual/single coil cartos, whats the biggest differcence to you, in vaping the higher resistance attys at higher voltages?
Isn't it just 6 of one, a half dozen of the other or are there other considerations and benefits or going higher volt/ohm?
In case you aren't aware of it, there's a HUGE difference between a 1.5/7 Dual coil and an equivalent resistance Single coil.
The Dual coil is splitting up the power between two 3/3.4ohm coils. So, you get two colder coils. That's why you really need about 4.5 or more volts for a decent vape with a dual coil. With a 3.7V battery, a 1.7ohm single coil is much better.
 
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