HELLO!! and Protank 2 not firing when bottom base is tightened

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Sugar_and_Spice

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Protank atty head pin is press fitted. So, turing wouldn't raise or lower the pin.
My guess is that, when the atty is tighten too hard, the pin squashes the grummet which could be making a short.
So, either lower the pin from the mod (which can't be done in this case) or shorten the atty pin by either sanding it down or use double o-ring.

Sorry Zero, yes it does work. I have done this many times with success with boges and protank mini's. Usually with the protank mini's it is to lower the pin to make the connect with the firing pin on the battery. So I know it works and have talked many a new member thru the process and they have success when following my advice.
But to each their own. Try it or not. Your choice.
 

ZeroOhms

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oh. you have Mini. If you are not having the contact issue with Mini on your mod, try using Mini base on the regular pro tank. I am not sure where you can get extra o-ring. I am sure you can go to local hardware stores and finding something that fits.
For long term/permanent solution, AeroTank base would be simplest. It's like getting AeroTank for $6. :D
 

saiajin

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Nov 24, 2013
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Sorry Zero, yes it does work. I have done this many times with success with boges and protank mini's. Usually with the protank mini's it is to lower the pin to make the connect with the firing pin on the battery. So I know it works and have talked many a new member thru the process and they have success when following my advice.
But to each their own. Try it or not. Your choice.

Raising the pins works PERFECT!!!
 

Sugar_and_Spice

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This works!!!! I did not know you could adjust the firing pins..this is awesome!!! I feel so much happier!! LOL

YAY!!!!. I am happy that you are happy. Don't know why this isn't in the stickies. I think it should be. But again, just to caution anyone who uses this method to go slowly and test each 1/4 turn. wouldn't want to mess up the wiring inside.

:)
 

saiajin

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Nov 24, 2013
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oh. you have Mini. If you are not having the contact issue with Mini on your mod, try using Mini base on the regular pro tank. I am not sure where you can get extra o-ring. I am sure you can go to local hardware stores and finding something that fits.
For long term/permanent solution, AeroTank base would be simplest. It's like getting AeroTank for $6. :D

Sugar_and_Spice's tip on raising the pins actually worked but OMG using the Mini base has amazing airflow!!! its almost too much!! The AeroTank base would be PERFECT!!! I'm learning so much from this thread!

Thanks again for all the help!!! :)
 

ZeroOhms

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Sorry Zero, yes it does work. I have done this many times with success with boges and protank mini's. Usually with the protank mini's it is to lower the pin to make the connect with the firing pin on the battery. So I know it works and have talked many a new member thru the process and they have success when following my advice.
But to each their own. Try it or not. Your choice.

Good to know and thank you for sharing it. Always learn something new.
Since I have been rebuilding the atty head, I knew they were press fitted and wouldn't behave like a threaded screw. In fact, the pin is slotted against the rubber grommet. So, nothing to screw against. So, I am scratching my head how/why it would work. One possibility is, when you twist the pin, it would twist the positive wire (which is fitted between the pin and grommet) and potentially fix the short. Or the twisting action creates the friction which forces the pin to behave like a screw.
Anyway, it is an odd behavior, but I keep the solution in mind.
Thanks
 

ZeroOhms

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Sugar_and_Spice's tip on raising the pins actually worked but OMG using the Mini base has amazing airflow!!! its almost too much!! The AeroTank base would be PERFECT!!! I'm learning so much from this thread!

Thanks again for all the help!!! :)

Nice thing about Mini base is, you can easily cover up one hole using a finger while vaping. Sort of "manual" airflow control. :D
 

saiajin

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Nov 24, 2013
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Redlands, CA USA
Sure,,,

See if i can explain this lol
A Cartomizer (Carto) is a tube about the size of a cigarette filter that has a coil inside of it with cotton around it. When I first started vaping that is what i used you can attache it straight to the battery and vape it just by soaking the cotton inside. Since then they have found a better way as it is easy to dry out the cotten in those and get a nasty taste from those and you had to constantly have juice with you to keep the cotton wet all day. The upside to cartos is they give more flavor... and are very consistant. So the newest thing with cartos is the carto tank .. basically you have a tank that looks alot like your protank and comes in different sizes from 2.5-6 ml . instead of the hollow tube in the middle of your protank that the top of the coil slides into you have a carto hooked straight to the battery and u slide a tank that seals with o-rings over the carto and fill it with juice. you have to use punched cartos which means there is a hole in the carto inside the tank. . and as you vape juice is pulled into the carto and it keeps it wet . ..

So I'm kind of getting it.... instead of the cotton its a a tube sealed straight to the Batt and the Coil has short wicks inside and the tube has holes to keep them wet? I'm still not sure what the difference is from my protanks... I can be dense sometimes...does this have replaceable coils?
 

saiajin

Full Member
Nov 24, 2013
16
1
Redlands, CA USA
Good to know and thank you for sharing it. Always learn something new.
Since I have been rebuilding the atty head, I knew they were press fitted and wouldn't behave like a threaded screw. In fact, the pin is slotted against the rubber grommet. So, nothing to screw against. So, I am scratching my head how/why it would work. One possibility is, when you twist the pin, it would twist the positive wire (which is fitted between the pin and grommet) and potentially fix the short. Or the twisting action creates the friction which forces the pin to behave like a screw.
Anyway, it is an odd behavior, but I keep the solution in mind.
Thanks

It seems like the Tube end is press fitted but the Pin end is threaded....I have taken the tube off to dry fire cleaning the coil but when I reassemble I always get flooding and have to use the upside down old O-ring on my Mini. Now I just dry fire with the tube on and tank off and seems somewhat sufficient to clean the coils...
 

ZeroOhms

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At the bottom of the head, there is a "grooved" metal contact surrounded by rubber insulation. Those are fitted into the rest of metal body of the atomizer head. Positive wire fits between the center metal pin and the rubber insulation. Negative wire fits between the rubber grommet and metal body. When you are rebuilding the coil, you have to yank those pieces out and you do that by "pulling" them out, not unscrewing them.
The top chimney tube is press fitted to the metal body and can be pulled out, exposing the coil and wicks.

When you are doing dry burn, be sure to take the flavor wicks out and put them back in. Missing flavor wick can lead to leakage. If you lost the flavor wick, get some organic cotton and lay a small piece on top of the coil. Never dry burn cotton and make sure they are wet before firing.
 

prophetr1

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so i'm kind of getting it.... Instead of the cotton its a a tube sealed straight to the batt and the coil has short wicks inside and the tube has holes to keep them wet? I'm still not sure what the difference is from my protanks... I can be dense sometimes...does this have replaceable coils?

yea its really hard to explain check out that youtube link i posted back i think on page 2 that will clear it all up...
 
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