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Check out @Mooch's blog for his latest battery charts. Calculate the maximum amperage you will require at full charge with your chosen coil(s), then select the battery that has the highest mAh capacity while still meeting or exceeding your required amp draw.
Mooch rates the VTC5A at 25 amps. That will be able to safely handle resistances of .17 ohms (~24.7 amps at full charge) or higher, if authentic.
Mooch rates the VTC5A at 25 amps. That will be able to safely handle resistances of .17 ohms (~24.7 amps at full charge) or higher, if authentic.
Welcome to ECF. Sorry no help from me with your question, simply not qualified. Just wanted to say "hello".
Information on your builds will be helpful, and be specific if you build for a range of resistances. Please make sure you read up on battery safety and ohm's law (we are always going to assume you know nothing for safety sake).
With that out of the way, the safest battery is a known battery with known loads. Tons of quality batteries that can be operated dangerously.
What's the lowest resistance you build to?
With that out of the way, the safest battery is a known battery with known loads. Tons of quality batteries that can be operated dangerously.
What's the lowest resistance you build to?
The "IMR" prefix is used generically now and can't be trusted to designate a particular battery chemistry. But that's ok as I don't think we use a single battery with the chemistry that prefix often refers to anymore.
Heh. Older school than I even thought then.. so on behalf of the OP & myself should I dig out a mech mod again, what does one want to put in them?
Well so do automobiles but people still use those. it is possible to overload a mech mod in a couple ways. As long as you're not stupid about it you should be fine.
1. Don't hit the button for more than 10 seconds.
I'm guessing 90%+ of battery runaways (&both times it happened to me) happen because something in your pocket presses the button and holds it in till the thing overheats. Most (though not absolutely all) mech mods have some sort of feature to prevent accidental firing. Use them. Both times I had a battery go up it was because I was using a mod that had no such features and stuck it in my pocket like an idiot. I was using a safe chemistry though so all I got was a destroyed battery and stinky jeans.
2. Don't sub ohm harder than the battery you are using can handle.
This was covered on an earlier post in this thread. The dangerous numbers are usually really low. Like .3ohm & below. If you're doing mtl you'll never get near em.
3. Don't use rewrap batteries.
This one I think you are already aware of
See this man here? Listen to every word he has to say on the subject. He's said a lot.
Keep posting here with any questions you have. Mechanicals mods make for a wonderful hobby and can produce a spectacular vape, but they demand care and respect.
Build high, build clean, read up.
Hi and welcome. Mech mods are a special world. I, and a number of others here, love them all to pieces. They are not, however, for everyone; and they require substantial knowledge and ability to use them well and safely. Using a mech is all about coil building. There isn't any other way to adjust the vape. Herewith a few pointers:
1) Start low. Don't build below .5Ω in the beginning, or for your first 6 months or so. You don't say how accomplished a builder you are so-- safety first-- I will assume you are a novice. Try building .5Ω coils with three or four different wire gauges. I think you will be surprised with the difference in the vape. In general, all else being equal, the smaller wire you use the hotter the wire surface will be. This is going to make a really big difference in both cloud and flavor. The atty you have gotten is a competition cloud machine, not really built or intended for a flavor chaser. It can still be built either way, of course, but to get any real flavor out of it you're going to have to close the air down some and build higher coils than you think.
2) Eschew fancy-wire coil builds. On a mech, think slick (round) wire, or ribbon, or twists. You aren't going to need quad-core stapled Claptons, or the like, to get good cloud out of it, and building with them means you will just about eat batteries. There's a reason the competitors using your mod change batteries for fresh after every round. Once you vape it down even .2 volts, the cloud will fall off a lot with fancy wires. Moreover, the ramp time-- the time from when you press the button until you get cloud-- is super long with fancy wires on a one-battery mech; that's why competitors "purge" the atty by blowing into it: to see when it actually starts making vapor. For day-to-day use, stay away from massive coils or be prepared for a lot of fiddling and frustration.
3) Just in case you are also new to RDAs, all bottom air drippers-- you have one-- leak. Some of them leak like a sieve, others leak like a firehose. That doesn't mean don't use them, but it does mean carry a paper towel around while you're using it. Another good way to slow-- I repeat, there's no way to stop-- the leaking is to wind more loops on your coil. Ideally, the coil proper should be as long or longer than the air intake vents so there is no wet wick directly above them. Over-dripping-- something all new drippers do-- is an occupational hazard with bottom air. Did I mention don't forget a paper towel? If not, don't forget the paper towels...
4) Use good batteries. 'Nuff said, really. The VTC5As you mention are a good choice. Beware counterfeits; buy only from a reputable supplier. The lower you build and the fancier your wire, the more batteries you will need because you will be replacing them. Often. If you want to carry around spares-- you will, if you're gone more than 15 minutes or so-- carry them in plastic cases or a battery sock. And get a good charger.
5) Be vary careful of that rassinfrackin' faux-hybrid top cap. I hate the nappy things and wouldn't have one in the house. Your topper has a well-protruding center pin, but if you decide to use a different one, be certain it does also. Battery rattle adjustment is critical. It is very easy to dent or push in the top contact of the battery when you screw in the atty if the mod is adjusted too short. When this happens, the center pin makes contact in the bottom of the dent, but the outer edges are still at factory height, bringing the outer (negative) 510 threads that much closer. You'll know when you make contact, I promise, but it won't be funny. Inspect you batteries at every charge and, if the top contact is dented in, don't use in in a faux-hybrid mod any more.
Stay safe out there...
1) Start low. Don't build below .5Ω in the beginning, or for your first 6 months or so. You don't say how accomplished a builder you are so-- safety first-- I will assume you are a novice. Try building .5Ω coils with three or four different wire gauges. I think you will be surprised with the difference in the vape. In general, all else being equal, the smaller wire you use the hotter the wire surface will be. This is going to make a really big difference in both cloud and flavor. The atty you have gotten is a competition cloud machine, not really built or intended for a flavor chaser. It can still be built either way, of course, but to get any real flavor out of it you're going to have to close the air down some and build higher coils than you think.
2) Eschew fancy-wire coil builds. On a mech, think slick (round) wire, or ribbon, or twists. You aren't going to need quad-core stapled Claptons, or the like, to get good cloud out of it, and building with them means you will just about eat batteries. There's a reason the competitors using your mod change batteries for fresh after every round. Once you vape it down even .2 volts, the cloud will fall off a lot with fancy wires. Moreover, the ramp time-- the time from when you press the button until you get cloud-- is super long with fancy wires on a one-battery mech; that's why competitors "purge" the atty by blowing into it: to see when it actually starts making vapor. For day-to-day use, stay away from massive coils or be prepared for a lot of fiddling and frustration.
3) Just in case you are also new to RDAs, all bottom air drippers-- you have one-- leak. Some of them leak like a sieve, others leak like a firehose. That doesn't mean don't use them, but it does mean carry a paper towel around while you're using it. Another good way to slow-- I repeat, there's no way to stop-- the leaking is to wind more loops on your coil. Ideally, the coil proper should be as long or longer than the air intake vents so there is no wet wick directly above them. Over-dripping-- something all new drippers do-- is an occupational hazard with bottom air. Did I mention don't forget a paper towel? If not, don't forget the paper towels...
4) Use good batteries. 'Nuff said, really. The VTC5As you mention are a good choice. Beware counterfeits; buy only from a reputable supplier. The lower you build and the fancier your wire, the more batteries you will need because you will be replacing them. Often. If you want to carry around spares-- you will, if you're gone more than 15 minutes or so-- carry them in plastic cases or a battery sock. And get a good charger.
5) Be vary careful of that rassinfrackin' faux-hybrid top cap. I hate the nappy things and wouldn't have one in the house. Your topper has a well-protruding center pin, but if you decide to use a different one, be certain it does also. Battery rattle adjustment is critical. It is very easy to dent or push in the top contact of the battery when you screw in the atty if the mod is adjusted too short. When this happens, the center pin makes contact in the bottom of the dent, but the outer edges are still at factory height, bringing the outer (negative) 510 threads that much closer. You'll know when you make contact, I promise, but it won't be funny. Inspect you batteries at every charge and, if the top contact is dented in, don't use in in a faux-hybrid mod any more.
Stay safe out there...
You need to read firstly aboutcan anyone help me?! I got new VGOD ELITE MECH MOD with the VGOD RDTA, so what is the safest battery that i can use to my Mech mod.
i read a few forum that the VTC5A is best battery for mech mod?!!
Thankss
Ohms law / safety
Then work out what coil / wire you wana build
an then an Ohm meter to
test/ read your builds correctly
Then work out which battery is safe for your desired build ,
Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk
Any battery with a high enough current rating for the way you vape is fine. They're all using the same group of "hybrid" chemistries, much safer than LiPo's but not as safe as the chemistry that "IMR" refers to (LMO).
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according to mooch the sony vtc5a is a pretty good allround performer amps and temperature and so on
and i am using these my self in my noisy cricket
and i am using these my self in my noisy cricket
Agree great cells , if not building crazy low Sony VTC 6 or samsung 30q too ,
obviously lower amps on the higher capacity as batteries go but still good ,
Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk
vtc6 only has 20 amps acording to mooch and i do trust hes ratings
Amp draw is build dependent,
i think the 6,s are rated at 19 amps for VTC6
But its still a pretty good cell especially when its warmed up
It can keep up with the 5A might not hit as hard at the start
And the VTC5A is only 25amps
Like i say as long as your monitoring your builds as every builder should be doing any way.
You can still have a wider option of cells avalible , for a good combo of mah / amps
If you want safer higher amp cells your going to have to go with the
LG HB,s 4/6/2 cells less capacity but safer at higher draws /30 amps,
Thats not to say a VTC6 or others cannot be used safely they can.
i think the 6,s are rated at 19 amps for VTC6
But its still a pretty good cell especially when its warmed up
It can keep up with the 5A might not hit as hard at the start
And the VTC5A is only 25amps
Like i say as long as your monitoring your builds as every builder should be doing any way.
You can still have a wider option of cells avalible , for a good combo of mah / amps
If you want safer higher amp cells your going to have to go with the
LG HB,s 4/6/2 cells less capacity but safer at higher draws /30 amps,
Thats not to say a VTC6 or others cannot be used safely they can.
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Welcome and glad you joined.
I have provided a little more information which might help choosing/evaluating batteries.
Might like to read:
18650 Battery Buying Guide for Vapor Users – Wake and Vape Blog
(9) Battery Basics for Mods; the Ultimate Battery Guide | E-Cigarette Forum
Calculating battery current draw for a regulated mod | E-Cigarette Forum
Battery Safety: Will You Marry Me? - Mt Baker Vapor
http://ecigarettereviewed.com/e-cig-charging-safety
Vaping 101: Battery Safety
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