Hello World !

[lord_farquadd]

question..
I am reading 2.6 ohms from the atty connector or pos post and deck, coil.
With batteries out, atty on, switch closed, I read 2 ohms from the battery pos/neg
Which one do we calculate the draw from ?

I have several coils here that I made. All twisted. Thing is I dont recal how many strands and of what gauge they are. I ran out of kanthal and plan to buy some soon.

I like the following set of numbers because they are rounded off, and would like to know that I am vaping them.
Thing is, I have to get the gauge just right. I have some coils that are 2 ohms but they run too hot imho. My best coil is the 2.6 ohm one and it feels like it could go slightly hotter.

8/4/2/32
these numbers are my goal, and to get the best performance from the coil would come down to the gauge I use.

so far 2/28awg with like 10 wraps at 2.5 ohms is working the best.
(would a single wire work better, do I need to use a dual coil hmm)

I wish I had a coil making lab..lol
but, I did make that coil wire twister board so I am progressing..
I am thinking of buying thicker kanthal than I did before.
Originally I had 30,31,and 33 gauge..
The vape shop now carries 28 but I may wish to try even lower.

 

[lord_farquadd]

The telescopic/universal batt use its genius, your never worried about if you have amps from batts to cover your sub coils.

wait what, nah I dont think that is what is happening.. I call them the neg and pos plates, and both are stationary. The adj I speak of is the center pin which is actually a copper screw that bolts to the pos plate. The batteries are tensioned against the pos plate by springs at the bottom of the device.

 

[Visus]

You had it with 350's 650's and aa's thats universal use I thought the positive pole moved the plate I didn't 007 it well.

The fuse will impede the flow of electrons down to almost nothing .000003v starting @13amps it starts to slowly build resistance and if you start approaching 20 amps like with a accidentally pressed and firing switch or fused together welded switch which can happen if short, .000003v. Clear the short and the fuse is reset and back to normal operation. The fuse is an easy install just break either neg or pos and solder the strap in between. Good insurance for pennies and it's resistance is 0.0035 so it wont add any noticeable difference in what you have without it.. ...

Even tho using safer chemistry batts, they can be saved from shorts and venting and having to buy more or boom, it will protect the whole setup..
Normal mechs "penny fuses" are only 7amps and you would need two, they are not reset-able.
7amp 2 Penny Safety Fuse Board

 

[lord_farquadd]

2.6 in hmmm
I can safely say I will be investigating using one of them in the near future to see if it can be something that I can use in it.
But, I thought the idea was to get as much out of a 30 amp battery as possible.
As I may have said, I am skeptical that anyone is actually gett 120 watts from a 30 amp .13 Ohms build.

if they are, is the mods they are using any less safe than what I have ?
What might be their total resistance if it is at all possible to take a reading considering they are typically tubes and I cant see how they would take such a reading from the pos/neg battery connections.

I honestly feel that the low Ohms numbers that I see folks posting for coils, is either the total resistance number or that they are running a coil that ends up being the lowest resistance within the device and not the highest. Which translates to me that most of the energy from the battery is being wasted heating up the device itself and not the coil. The coil is glowing because it can glow (kanthal) and not because it has the highest load resistance in the device. To me, this seems more dangerous than stacking IMR 350s to run a high resistance coil. But they seem to enjoy it and I have seen hellacious clouds. Again, although I have made a few coils that can do that myself using 8 volts, I quickly dialed it down to a modest half a cloud.. still more than what I am used to.

 

[Visus]

You are correct, yes the mod becomes pathway in some mechs if trying a coil that low. All things have to be in 100% conductivity or their holding one huge resistor. The nature of the kanthal/nichrome will still fire but alas the battery is being drained by the mod itself @ a rapid rate..

Meh, IMO 20 amps more than sufficient for huge clouds heck 5amps more than sufficient with proper built wick and coil..

The proper way to get 120 watts is with a regulated mod, it will give you an honest 120 watts no hiccups unless mech is fully copper, gold, or silver.

If you want the full 30A battery use out of the strap fuse just get two and parallel them 26A hold 40amp trip.. They are almost as thin as a band-aid and you will lower their already insignificant resistance even lower.

Some 30A batts have a much higher burst number the sony vtc have a 60A burst.

 

[lord_farquadd]

... and so enters the DNA 30 chip. but until I can afford one, I think I am safe for now. And adding a fuse would be even more fantastic Thanks again V.

 

[lord_farquadd]

wait come back ! lol
so, what reg mod lets you see 120 watts, like a DNA 30 ?
Today I want to try to dial in my ecig experience more so by discussing too high an ohms and what happens or how it affects the safety of my mech mod scenario.

I just revisited "Ohms" as seen by a new vaper and found even more articals saying the same things..
They describe a chart (which I saw and which helped me then) that show the ranges of coils and what we can expect from them as far as green to red..

The interesting thing this however that this time around for me was the recommendations of power outputs for a good vape.
6-8 watts. (shocking to me as I been trying to almost reach the sky with this number as is every other twenty something with a death wish..)
So I upp'd it a little.. I am done.. I may wish to come back down..
I have been able to get to or reach a safe 50 watts..
And in my experience, it is just like a light bulb and may be too hot for me and my juice (wick etc etc). I have seen these videos and such where they say their coils are like at that .13 and 120 watts mark. Thats great for them.

But if I wanted to go in the other direction and say that I wish to stay with higher volts, but this time instead of lower res, HOW HIGH an Ohm's can we go before we are unsafe and how do we compute it for saftey sake ?

I may have seen recently what my DIY mod build does in the event of a fail. The Battery springs melt and the battery should lose contact.
So, turns out the springs are my weak link or fail safe.
How do I compute if and when they will act more like a coil if I decided to climb the Ohms scale instead of the watts one is next on my agenda.
Again, currently I am vaping safe at 7.2 Volts, 5.69 Amps, 1.3 Ohms, 42.12 Watts.
I am thinking I want to try other higher Ohms wire gauges and diameters builds and try to learn at what watts I prefer.
Now that I am surrounded by my mech mods, I think I am going to need another atty. eeh.

 

[lord_farquadd]

update: after I posted that, I made a 7.4 volt 2.7 amp 2.7 Ohm's 20 watt coil. I think I love it.

 

[Visus]

To test out your springs you would need a meter like hobby king sells which measures the internal ir of your batts and the springs.
Radio Control Planes, Helicopters, Cars, Boats, FPV and Quadcopters - Hobbyking 

Lucky for you Bapgood has measured the more popular batts IR and springs, look for that post in a search its in this section but buried..


Lol hopefully you have hot springs in your mod not all springs will drop out for ya..

Heckuva surprise on the other end of ohms and springs, they become your coil or worse yet the batts themselves short..

Long way up the ladder for that hopefully with good batts.. That coil would be enormous lol..

Heres a chart and ohms calculator from 2012 the chart its a little off now with these new batts on market
But heres where it was then, funny how technology cjanges things..
Undestanding resistances, LR and HV