Long time lurker long over due for joining the conversation. So, me: I smoked for 18 years. I tried just about every cessation method imaginable, some of which I approached very seriously, unsuccessfully, and some of which still seem like a joke. E-cigarettes are the only thing I've found that have worked. I may still be an addict, but I am pleased to say that I've been smoke free for 3 years.
The gear: My goto vape is a VStack which I've modded several times over. Shaved the cap and added some weld so that the switch, now a KSJM211, sits on a slope. Put the light hole on the slope as well with an epoxy bead for a lens. Old, sure, but it works like a champ. Admittedly, I've replaced the switch a couple times in this configuration as it's not a sealed tact switch and doesn't like it when I drop it in a puddle or dump juice on it. I've also found that chapstick is very effective at preserving the aluminum threading...
For the first two years my preference was cartomizer tanks, using a 4.5Ohm single coil stepped down from 2x 18350s. I know some people are strictly against cartos, but to me they're power efficient with full hits off less than 6W, meaning I can go out for the day without worrying about bringing spare batteries, or juice for that matter, and they can do long draws without burning the liquid very easily. This is in stark contrast to EVERY clearimizer I've tried, which all seem to burn the juice under what I consider normal use. Cartos may still be my preference if RDAs weren't so much cheaper to run, and easier to find.
For the past year I've been running an aqua tank, with the clear lens, drilled and tapped for an M4 plugged fill hole. I like it as it sits stout in comparison to many other tanks I've seen and/or tried. I run it with a dual coil 0.60 Ohm (parallel) at 2.5V (10.4W), at least now, stepped down from an 18650. I started at 2.9V and gradually have worked down to this level as my juice has changed. Currently, I'm running straight PG 11mg.
The gear: My goto vape is a VStack which I've modded several times over. Shaved the cap and added some weld so that the switch, now a KSJM211, sits on a slope. Put the light hole on the slope as well with an epoxy bead for a lens. Old, sure, but it works like a champ. Admittedly, I've replaced the switch a couple times in this configuration as it's not a sealed tact switch and doesn't like it when I drop it in a puddle or dump juice on it. I've also found that chapstick is very effective at preserving the aluminum threading...
For the first two years my preference was cartomizer tanks, using a 4.5Ohm single coil stepped down from 2x 18350s. I know some people are strictly against cartos, but to me they're power efficient with full hits off less than 6W, meaning I can go out for the day without worrying about bringing spare batteries, or juice for that matter, and they can do long draws without burning the liquid very easily. This is in stark contrast to EVERY clearimizer I've tried, which all seem to burn the juice under what I consider normal use. Cartos may still be my preference if RDAs weren't so much cheaper to run, and easier to find.
For the past year I've been running an aqua tank, with the clear lens, drilled and tapped for an M4 plugged fill hole. I like it as it sits stout in comparison to many other tanks I've seen and/or tried. I run it with a dual coil 0.60 Ohm (parallel) at 2.5V (10.4W), at least now, stepped down from an 18650. I started at 2.9V and gradually have worked down to this level as my juice has changed. Currently, I'm running straight PG 11mg.
