Difficult to see from the pic but the wick should just touch the deck. Might be worth pulling the atty apart, checking your wick setup and reassembling, making sure everything is in place.
Help choosing RBA to replace my Protank 2
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first I tried filling the top method and the juice would leak out of the fill hole. Last night I tried to fill via the fill hole with a syringe and I not only had it spill back out of the fill hole, but also the drip tip.
If you fill from the top you have to cover the air hole or it will just leak straight out if it.
Filling via the fill hole you might try filling slower, using a bottle with a plastic tip will stop it flowing back out of the fill hole.
If its leaking out of the drip tip while filling from the fill hole one of 2 things is happening:
The chamber was flooded.
Or,
The chimney o-ring wasn't sealing.
These atties are super simple but can throw some curve-balls at you.
Check it all & try again. That's what I'd do.
Filling via the fill hole you might try filling slower, using a bottle with a plastic tip will stop it flowing back out of the fill hole.
If its leaking out of the drip tip while filling from the fill hole one of 2 things is happening:
The chamber was flooded.
Or,
The chimney o-ring wasn't sealing.
These atties are super simple but can throw some curve-balls at you.
Check it all & try again. That's what I'd do.
Would you happen to have a picture or something showing where all the o rings are located on the HCIGAR clone so that I can make sure they're all there?
From the pics I see online, there doesn't seem to be an o ring between the chimney body and top cap, but I definitely have one there. I also have one at the drip tip connector and the tank top cap (along with the one smaller one that meets the chimney top cap).
I'm not sure if this matters, but I can't twist it tight enough to the point that I can't see the black o ring between the chimney and the top cap of it. Does that matter? The drip tip cap is also the same way (i.e. too difficult to tighten all the way where they aren't visible).
From the pics I see online, there doesn't seem to be an o ring between the chimney body and top cap, but I definitely have one there. I also have one at the drip tip connector and the tank top cap (along with the one smaller one that meets the chimney top cap).
I'm not sure if this matters, but I can't twist it tight enough to the point that I can't see the black o ring between the chimney and the top cap of it. Does that matter? The drip tip cap is also the same way (i.e. too difficult to tighten all the way where they aren't visible).
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Sorry dude I don't have a pic. Google images might.
Sounds like you can't get a good seal on that top cap. The chimney o-ring should be seated in its little recess in the top cap before you screw the tip cap down.
Maybe put a little ejuice on the o-rings to help lubricate them, making it easier to tighten that cap.
You got a pic of the atty showing how far you can tighten it?
Sounds like you can't get a good seal on that top cap. The chimney o-ring should be seated in its little recess in the top cap before you screw the tip cap down.
Maybe put a little ejuice on the o-rings to help lubricate them, making it easier to tighten that cap.
You got a pic of the atty showing how far you can tighten it?
So I finally decided to try try it again. Been using my dripper since my last post. So I got it filled topfill method. It started leaking a little out of the fill hole once all assembled. Got to the point where I had it sitting upright with no leaking for about an hour (wanted to make sure it wasn't leaking before putting it on). After putting it on my Provari and taking some draws, it's started leaking out of the fill hole again. It's not coming out much but it's a slow progressive leak.
When you say it's leaking out of the fill hole, do you mean the hole in the bottom with the Phillips head screw in it?
There shouldn't be a hole on the bottom of the 3.1. All 3 holes should be on the side. 1 air intake hole; 1 air adjustment hole with screw and 1 slanted fill valve hole-ish thingy.
If it's leaking out of the fill VALVE, then either the valve is stuck open or it is faulty/broken. You really should use a plastic tapered tip and not a metal syringe needle because the metal needle can easily destroy that tiny valve. You can try to force juice or water both ways through the valve in an attempt to clear out any debris that might be keeping the valve open. Otherwise, these guys are notorious for having functionless valves (even the real ones don't always work well). My 3.1's valve broke the first time I tried to fill it.
If it's leaking out one of the two air holes, then your coil chamber is getting flooded. This can be caused by many many things............
If it's leaking out of the fill VALVE, then either the valve is stuck open or it is faulty/broken. You really should use a plastic tapered tip and not a metal syringe needle because the metal needle can easily destroy that tiny valve. You can try to force juice or water both ways through the valve in an attempt to clear out any debris that might be keeping the valve open. Otherwise, these guys are notorious for having functionless valves (even the real ones don't always work well). My 3.1's valve broke the first time I tried to fill it.
If it's leaking out one of the two air holes, then your coil chamber is getting flooded. This can be caused by many many things............
Thanks folk! I'm talking about the slanted fill valve hole-ish thingy. I've only used this hole to fill it up once and had problems that time. Is there any way to get the hole to close or is it scrap once it's been busted (assuming this is the problem with mine) ?
Plug it. Silicone goo in the valve from the outside (or inside, or both), or a toothpick shoved down in the hole from the inside deck area. I used a broken-off tip from a RSST fill-hole plug shoved down from the deck.
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