Help.DNA 40 temp controlled burnt hits.

[bulldog63h]

I have a plumevail clone on my vapor shark with a .21 ohm 30g ni200 build wicked with cotton. When the wick is fully saturated it does fine, but long before it's dry I start to get burnt hits. I have the temp control at 400F, the power is set to 40 watts and there are no visible hot spots when firing without wick. If anyone has the slightest clue as to why this is happening and how to fix it, I would appreciate your input very much.

 

[gray]

Is it going into temp protection at every pull? Where is the wick getting charred exactly? Something must be grossly off.
Some things to check are loose hardware in the atty or poor 510 connection on the center post. The leads should be wrapped around screws vs. through any lead holes in the posts. The leads can work themselves loose and cause that behavior of charring right at the connection.

I prefer the spaced coils as they seem to keep a solid resistance. Try to build it this way and make sure no coils are touching each other.

 

[bulldog63h]

Everything's good and tight. It's not showing temperature protected at all. I think i'm going to turn off temp control, fire it and squeeze the coil a little tighter. Maybe there's a spot getting hot enough to burn but not hot enough to glow.

 

[RandyF]

Have you verified the coil is actually .21? If you are dry firing the coil, which you should be very careful doing BTW, and then putting it on the device before it cools to room temp, then your reading will be off. For example, if your coil is actually a .14 that is reading .21 (which is what will happen if the coil is still warm) then the temp control will be way off. You should know what the coil resistance is before having the DNA40 read it to be sure it is correct.

 

[BrushyHillGuide]

Everything's good and tight. It's not showing temperature protected at all. I think i'm going to turn off temp control, fire it and squeeze the coil a little tighter. Maybe there's a spot getting hot enough to burn but not hot enough to glow.

So, when you fire it and take a drag and then look down at the screen you're not seeing "Temp Protected?" If not, then the device isn't in protection mode; and if it's not in protected mode you're going to get dry hits and I think you'll get there a lot quicker than with the temp protected. Because you'll be firing the wattage you set into that ni200 coil just as if it were a kanthal build. Everything RandyF said is spot on and may be what's going on but you're making it sound as if the feature isn't even working at all. Even if you follow RandyF's suggestion, if the mode isn't working for some reason you're still going to have the same problem - you need that autopilot mode that the temp protection mode provides to keep that LR coil from getting too hot.

I had loads of issues with my attempts at building with nickel on my Plume Veil V1.5 using the 30g Ni200 and got so frustrated I switched to the 28g and working on my Lemo. I got it working fantastic on there and I've been stuck on it ever since. I'm going to be sticking with the 28g from now on because it's a LOT easier to work with. Plus, I used the machine screw (6-32) method of building a standard coil and that seemed to make building with the nickel wire WAAAAAAY easier. You might try that.

 

[bulldog63h]

Ł

So, when you fire it and take a drag and then look down at the screen you're not seeing "Temp Protected?" If not, then the device isn't in protection mode; and if it's not in protected mode you're going to get dry hits and I think you'll get there a lot quicker than with the temp protected. Because you'll be firing the wattage you set into that ni200 coil just as if it were a kanthal build. Everything RandyF said is spot on and may be what's going on but you're making it sound as if the feature isn't even working at all. Even if you follow RandyF's suggestion, if the mode isn't working for some reason you're still going to have the same problem - you need that autopilot mode that the temp protection mode provides to keep that LR coil from getting too hot.

I had loads of issues with my attempts at building with nickel on my Plume Veil V1.5 using the 30g Ni200 and got so frustrated I switched to the 28g and working on my Lemo. I got it working fantastic on there and I've been stuck on it ever since. I'm going to be sticking with the 28g from now on because it's a LOT easier to work with. Plus, I used the machine screw (6-32) method of building a standard coil and that seemed to make building with the nickel wire WAAAAAAY easier. You might try that.

It's in temp control mode. The coil glows in the middle before the temp protection kicks in. I let off before it pops up.

 

[Steam Turbine]

Everything's good and tight. It's not showing temperature protected at all. I think i'm going to turn off temp control, fire it and squeeze the coil a little tighter. Maybe there's a spot getting hot enough to burn but not hot enough to glow.

I've never been successful at wraping a contact coil or micro coil with the dna40 with temp control, and believe me I've tried....

Try to wrap a nice spaced out coil, Make sure your coil is rock solid, the dna40 is very capricious about connection, what flys with kanthal might not with nickel.... I am not familiar with your atty but with mine, I cannot use the post holes, the connection is not good enough, I have to use the top screws and connect it kayfun style.

 

[bulldog63h]

I've never been successful at wraping a contact coil or micro coil with the dna40 with temp control, and believe me I've tried....

Try to wrap a nice spaced out coil, Make sure your coil is rock solid, the dna40 is very capricious about connection, what flys with kanthal might not with nickel.... I am not familiar with your atty but with mine, I cannot use the post holes, the connection is not good enough, I have to use the top screws and connect it kayfun style.

I'll give it a try when i can. Thanks.

 

[Ryedan]

Ł

It's in temp control mode. The coil glows in the middle before the temp protection kicks in. I let off before it pops up.

I don't have a DNA40.

It seems to me that if your coil is glowing and temp protection is on, it's out of calibration in some manner. Then again, in your OP you said the coil doesn't glow without a wick in it

 

[RandyF]

I've never been successful at wraping a contact coil or micro coil with the dna40 with temp control, and believe me I've tried....

Try to wrap a nice spaced out coil, Make sure your coil is rock solid, the dna40 is very capricious about connection, what flys with kanthal might not with nickel.... I am not familiar with your atty but with mine, I cannot use the post holes, the connection is not good enough, I have to use the top screws and connect it kayfun style.

Same here. I could get them initially work, but before long they would start getting inconsistent. I was glad to see Brandon confirm that contact coils were not the best option with the DNA40 and nickel.

28g 8/9wraps around a 6-32 machine screw will give you a very nice coil that will just come down to attaching it to the addy. As Steam Turbine said, locking it down with the screws is always the better option over post holes.

 

[The Cloud Minder]

Note to self: don't buy a dna40, have to buy new wire and deal with crap like OP has encountered.

 

[RandyF]

Note to self: don't buy a dna40, have to buy new wire and deal with crap like OP has encountered.

Yeah, there is a learning curve, a pretty big one. BUT, once you get the hang of it, it is a great vape. Knowing you are not going to burn you wick and being able to fine tune the flavor and vapor is very satisfying.

 

[Marc411]

Ł

It's in temp control mode. The coil glows in the middle before the temp protection kicks in. I let off before it pops up.

Coils should not glow in temp control with the TP set at 400, TP should have kicked in already. I use spaced coils like suggested and find that the coil legs need to be secured under the screw heads to get a solid contact. Brandon also suggests not securing the coils in the posts and believes that it leads to poor contact for the coil.

The DNA 40 is like learning all over again, new technology with new rules. It took me a while to get it right but now the PV's I own produce an excellent vape.

I use mostly twisted 30ga Ni200, 8 wraps spaced on a 6/32 screw for .15 ohms. wicking is a little easier with the twisted wire. 400 degrees at 22.6 watts keeps me right on the edge of TC. I watch when the TP kicks in and bring my watts down until it stops going into TP for a pretty damn good vape.

At first the learning curve just ...... me off but I played for a while and now it's pretty nice overall. It's just learning a new system. I had to throw out all my Kanthal knowledge to finally get it right.

 

[BrushyHillGuide]

Ł

It's in temp control mode. The coil glows in the middle before the temp protection kicks in. I let off before it pops up.

It should not be glowing. I don't think you're in temp control mode. Either that or there's something wrong with your chip/mod. That's why I went into the explanation about firing it and watching the screen on your mod. Your coil will NOT pop if you are in Temp Control and you have it set anywhere around 400, assuming the device is functioning properly - that's, I guess, the question at hand. If the board is faulty, and not entering temp control mode, there's no solution but having it repaired. However, the "problems" more often are with the user than the mod because of the learning curve with the new wire.

Secondly, you're building the wrong type of coil. As others have said, the temp control likes a standard coil, where the wraps are evenly spaced, and not a traditional micro coil like you would do with kanthal. Use a 6-32 machine bolt to wrap and install your coil and, once it's secured in the atty and perfectly in place, unscrew the bolt out of the coil and wick it. The 28g nickel is SO much easier to build with.

You have to let go of your knowledge of coil building and approach nickel as if you were a newbie. Do some reading and youtubeing and copy what others have done. If you don't, and keep trying to build like kanthal, you're in for a world of frustration.




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[gray]

Another thing is possibly trying a more conservative wattage like 20-25W. I can create a wall of vapor in that range.
Is 40W known to work well in your experience with this RDA and kanthal?

 

[gray]

Note to self: don't buy a dna40, have to buy new wire and deal with crap like OP has encountered.

Yeah, there is a learning curve, a pretty big one. BUT, once you get the hang of it, it is a great vape. Knowing you are not going to burn you wick and being able to fine tune the flavor and vapor is very satisfying.

Yes sir. We have many good options now. I can say out of the variety of 5 high quality chips I've tried, the 40 simply takes the #1 spot. It sucks batteries and wick dry with no issues after some experience.

 

[K_Tech]

I've never been successful at wraping a contact coil or micro coil with the dna40 with temp control, and believe me I've tried....

Try to wrap a nice spaced out coil, Make sure your coil is rock solid, the dna40 is very capricious about connection, what flys with kanthal might not with nickel.... I am not familiar with your atty but with mine, I cannot use the post holes, the connection is not good enough, I have to use the top screws and connect it kayfun style.

I'll second that. I've had much better luck with a few machine screws that help keep the coils spaced, then I tweak them after wicking. I just wish that Ni200 wasn't so darn soft, I think I've made up a few curse words after wrecking a few coils past the point of saving, lol.

Note to self: don't buy a dna40, have to buy new wire and deal with crap like OP has encountered.

I really isn't that bad, honestly. Once you get it dialed in, it just works, and I've noticed that for me, I can go much longer without rewicking with TC turned on.

Plus, it still works as a "regular" mod with Kanthal.

 

[dr g]

Confirm the resistance. Make sure the coil is cold.

 

[Steam Turbine]

Yeah, there is a learning curve, a pretty big one.

I disagree...the learning curve is very easy.... It boils down to 2 things:

1 - Don't build contact coils.
2 - Make sure the connection is rock solid.

Easy.

 

[Steam Turbine]

Note to self: don't buy a dna40, have to buy new wire and deal with crap like OP has encountered.

That is incorrect.

You do not need new wire with a DNA40... You can build a kanthal coil the same way you've always done that will work perfectly well.

You only need nickel wire if you choose to use the temperature control that the board optionally offer.

And again, nickel coils are a bit more finicky than kanthal but not by much. see post above.