Help, Hot Spot won't go away

[acolyte357]

I have been playing with this hot spot for quite some time. I have made a number of wicks and coils all keep giving me hot spots on the first run going to the top coil. I used the jack frost method of heating while unrolled. I also heated after it was coiled, and did several juice burns. I've tired the cig paper trick as well, and keep getting a hot spot in he same place.

 

[BJ43]

I have been playing with this hot spot for quite some time. I have made a number of wicks and coils all keep giving me hot spots on the first run going to the top coil. I used the jack frost method of heating while unrolled. I also heated after it was coiled, and did several juice burns. I've tired the cig paper trick as well, and keep getting a hot spot in he same place.

View attachment 132576

Turn the voltage down and drip right on the hot spot until it stops, that will correct any lack of oxidation and build up a little gunk on the coil leg that helps keep it wet especially if it is not touching the wick. It is best to lower the voltage so you don't pop the coil at the hot spot..

 

[Papa Lazarou]

Try putting less tension on the wire between the wick and the positive terminal. That looks like it's pulled tight - and that will cut into the oxidised layer and cause the wire to short on the bare stainless underneath.

 

[BJ43]

Try putting less tension on the wire between the wick and the positive terminal. That looks like it's pulled tight - and that will cut into the oxidised layer and cause the wire to short on the bare stainless underneath.

IMO if it were shorting to the wick as you say the lower coils would not heat up and produce all that vapor, that's why I thought it was the opposite, not touching the wick, therefore dry and hot.

 

[Papa Lazarou]

A few things for the OP to try out then I suggested that as a possible issue, as I used to often have the top coil lighting up like that on my DID and it was usually because when I tightened the top nut it would pull the wire tighter. Once I'd worked that out I haven't had many problems since.

 

[spraintz]

I agree with making sure the top coil "leg" doesn't have too much tension on it to the post, however, in my recent SS wick experience you need to make absolutely sure that top coil is nice and snug up against the wick and not shorting.

My best guess after the tension thing is shorting on that top coil. Even though it sounds like you've done a good oxidation there is a lot of movement on that top coil when securing to the post and you can still get a short.......I only say it cause it happend to me

I ended up using this method:

GTUS build with Mesh/Cotton hybrid wick - YouTube

a different atomizer but the concept will still work. Since I have been using this technique and making sure all coils are nice and snug to the wick I have been rock solid with no shorting or hot coil "legs"......and with the G-Tank you end up with some relatively long coil legs