Help me Genesis people =)

[1LastShot]

I have a genny on the way. It's my first one. I have no experience with stainless steel, though I can rebuild my Nimbus coil and wick it with cotton. All I have is an SVD, an MVPv2, and various 510 Batts. I have seen some videos on how to set them up, though I have a few questions. If I stay with SS wicks, do I have to have a blow torch, or can I use my gas stove like a use for my kanthal? Am I unable to pulse on any setup I have? Someone suggested an insulator of some sort, if I can't pulse, but I don't know what they mean.... Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm concerned I but off more than I can chew lol.

 

[milescadre]

when I setup my kraken, I didnt oxidize the mesh. instead, I wrapped the coil around the SS and pulsed it until it oxidized itself nad evenly heated around the coil from inside out.

Infact, if you were to remove my wicks, the only oxidation you'd see is a very light oxidation form where the coils sat.

As far as your devices go, I'd build and pulse using a mech personally, but a SVD/MVP in VV mode should suffice. The objective is to get hte coil hot enough to oxidize.

My 2 cents, I'm sure a wave of peoples will come on in and put me down =P

 

[steel bender]

Your svd/mvp aren't going to like pulsing out the hotspots. I would suggest getting it really nicely oxidized with your gas stove, then try and make sure your coils are nice and loose on the mesh. You want them to make contact with the wick, but the tighter your coils are wrapped on the wick, the harder it's going to be to get rid of those hotspots. Start out with lower voltage, before increasing and probably keep your resistance @1.2 ohms or above for those regulated devices. Oh yeah, watch lots of videos too...

 

[Andy Thatcher]

You gas cooker will suffice. I used a BBQ first time. That seems a long time ago but only just over 2 years. Anyway using pliers get the mesh glowing for 10-15 seconds. Then roll the wick till it fits easily in the wick hole. Back to the cooker and again another 15 second glow. At this point after it has cooled I would wrap a coil making sure you are over 1.5 ohms. These a variable devices but both have relatively low amp limits so 1.5 is the lowest I would suggest and would probably recommend over but hey the word variable is relevant. Now with the coil i n place back to the cooker and another 15 - 20 second glow. Let cool and fit on to atty. This preparation should reduce the likely hood of hotspots. As suggested before it appears let youtube be your friend. Please remember amp limits as I have killed MVPs by low ohms there fore high amps and would rather others not do the same. There are a multiplicity of ways to prepare mesh but in the case of low amp regulated devices I think the more preparation the better.

Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk

 

[CRW78]

I tried 3 when I got my promethius going; cotton, ss mesh, ss cord. The ss cord is nice and wicks really fast, better option over the mesh, but you still need to tip it with cotton where it contacts the coil. The ss mesh gave no real difference in wicking vs cotton, but easier to work with than cotton. Cotton has been my go to for wicking. Cheaper option than the other 2, just a tad tedious to work with. I would opt for a mechanical honestly, instead of the mvp though. I had such a fight trying to get my promethius to work on my VTR. Just easier to plop it on a mech and go! If the digital is what you wanna use, build your coils with no larger gauge than 24. I tried 26 and even with the standard sized wrap and 8 wraps, the VTR would not fire. It was reading it at least at .5, just wouldn't fire. I put my 1.8 Nautilus on it to check and it ran like a champ. Anywho, I'm still learning the buildables myself, but this is what I learned in the last couple days of building: the basics. Lol

 

[Dissonance]

If you try to pulse on a regulated device, it's gonna require a lot of fiddling. If there's a short somewhere on the wick, it's not going to measure the full resistance of the wire. So you could have a 2Ω coil wrapped, but if there's a short it might only actually be .3Ω. This will require you to play with your coil a bit til you find a spot that your device will fire at, fire it, then probably have to rinse & repeat.

My first rebuildable was a genesis... I went out and bought the cheapest mech mod I could find just to set my gennys up. With a mech, it'll fire if there's a short or not. So just keep to quick burst pulsing (Won't stress the batteries as much if there's a .1Ω short on there, plus long pulses before the shorts are semi-worked out will bust your coil) on a mech. Also worth mentioning... Since you gotta do quick pulses, a lot of regulated devices will do something like turn off when you hit the first button rapidly and repeatedly

 

[1LastShot]

Lots of helpful answers, thank you. I'm not in the market for a mech just yet...I don't really understand them. About the "tipping it with cotton, am I to understand that I could put a layer of cotton between the stainless steel and coil? Would that help insulate it from shorts? I'm a bit unclear as to why the whole pulsing thing is needed. Why is that something that doesn't need to be done on say, my Nimbus, but needs to be done on a setup like this? Is it due to the coil contacting the stainless steel? Thanks again

 

[Dissonance]

Lots of helpful answers, thank you. I'm not in the market for a mech just yet...I don't really understand them. About the "tipping it with cotton, am I to understand that I could put a layer of cotton between the stainless steel and coil? Would that help insulate it from shorts? I'm a bit unclear as to why the whole pulsing thing is needed. Why is that something that doesn't need to be done on say, my Nimbus, but needs to be done on a setup like this? Is it due to the coil contacting the stainless steel? Thanks again

Stainless steel is conductive, so there are gonna be shorts that come up between your coil and your wick. Pulsing builds up a layer of carbon between your wick and coil, keeping them electrically separate. You can wrap a small amount of cotton ontop of your SS rope/mesh to avoid the need for this, but you lose the ability to dry burn your coil/wick. You can also make an ekowool/ceramic "hat" to put on just the part of the SS where you wrap your coil for the same effect.

Picking up a mech just for this purpose doesn't really require much understanding. Just make sure you keep your pulsing short (Literally quick taps til your coil starts glowing from the inside out) to avoid any sort of problems that could arise with your battery/fire button/etc. To be honest, you have to keep it to quick taps anyway or you're gonna short your coil out and it won't fire anymore.

 

[1LastShot]

Stainless steel is conductive, so there are gonna be shorts that come up between your coil and your wick. Pulsing builds up a layer of carbon between your wick and coil, keeping them electrically separate. You can wrap a small amount of cotton ontop of your SS rope/mesh to avoid the need for this, but you lose the ability to dry burn your coil/wick. You can also make an ekowool/ceramic "hat" to put on just the part of the SS where you wrap your coil for the same effect.

Picking up a mech just for this purpose doesn't really require much understanding. Just make sure you keep your pulsing short (Literally quick taps til your coil starts glowing from the inside out) to avoid any sort of problems that could arise with your battery/fire button/etc. To be honest, you have to keep it to quick taps anyway or you're gonna short your coil out and it won't fire anymore.

Gotcha. I will look into a cheap mech mod. On the other side of things, do you have a link for the ecowool/ceramic cap thing... I don't know what we are discussing exactly.

 

[PaulBHC]

Good prices and service

Lightning Vapes - Florida - All the RBA Materials you need! Silica Wick, Ekowool, Kanthal Wire, and more!

 

[Andy Thatcher]

Have to wonder why buy a device designed as a genisis device and plop fluff or silica in it when there are lots of devices designed to do just that.

As regards rope being better than straight mesh...personally prefer mesh. It is a learning curve to get it right but once you do for me there is no comparison.

Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk

 

[1LastShot]

Have to wonder why buy a device designed as a genisis device and plop fluff or silica in it when there are lots of devices designed to do just that.

As regards rope being better than straight mesh...personally prefer mesh. It is a learning curve to get it right but once you do for me there is no comparison.

Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk

Why do anything different with any device? Seems that what we do. Sometimes the fun of owning these things is to be able to change them to suit our liking. Also, I am personally exploring the option so I know I have the ability to use the genny in case the standard option doesn't work as I intended. Can't learn without exploration. So there's that.

Thanks for your help all, and I will check out the link!

 

[cdsaint66]

I've just started out with gennies recently too. Oxidizing mesh is really pretty easy. And the results are worth it.

 

[milescadre]

tbh, I like my cobra on my VTR and it works very well, (although better on my mvp)

Some people like mesh, some like rayon, others cotton, even silica. To each thier own.

 

[Tbev]

I would oxidize the heck out of it on the stove and hope for the best but honestly I was a huge genny fan a while back and I pretty much only ran cotton wicks, much much less hassle and fantastic results. With your devices I'd definitely run a microcoil with cotton wicks

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk

 

[b.m.]

I just recently bought my first one,and i have not tried mesh or rope yet,but with cotton,it gives better flavor than anything else i have.I built 2 micro coils,and installed them vertically right above the wick holes just like you would if using mesh,then put a thin strip of cotton in with just the tip right above the wick being a bit thicker so it doesn't fall through the coil.Like i said amazing flavor out of it that way.I still want to try mesh,but dont have any yet,so it's next on the list.

 

[Tbev]

Ten to one you fiddle around with mesh and go back to cotton. If you really want to step up your game get some rayon.

 

[milescadre]

If you dont oxidize the snot out of your mesh wick and do it very lightly, you'll find mesh has a very crisp and good flavor. Tho I will admit, I wouldnt go too low with the mesh wicks.

I'm tempted to try and make me a hurricane genesis build. Maybe a wick with a cotton cloud behind the coil... wonder if it'd work =P

 

[shroomalistic]

I use ekowool sleeves on mine and it works a treat. I use 3/32 SS rope and 3mm hollow ekowool. Very easy setup and amazing vape. Have this setup on my chobra (drilled out the hole) and Kraken. I didnt have much luck with SS Mesh, too many shorts. I would get it perfect then the damn thing would get bumped or something and I would have to start all over.

 

[Myk]

You can oxidize with an SVD. SVD, VAMO and eVic are all I use to oxidize with.
I have one dead battery, it's one I used to oxidize with in a mech and it got pushed too hard. I imagine I'll eventually have another one because the other one had a heat problem trying to oxidize with a mech.

Stove will work to anneal the sheet. I also anneal after rolling and then do a final roll.
If your wick won't wick without tilting it's probably too tight in the hole. You want it to slide pretty freely.

SVD's cut off is around .8Ω. If it shorts and won't fire the short are likely in the top 2 coils. The only problem I can see with the SVD is the button is finicky to pulse with (you'll end up shooting it off) and checking resistance takes time. Do it at 3v and bump it up to 3.2v or 3.4v

I get mine close enough and vape a tank at low voltage if need be to build up gunk. Close enough is it heats the coil somewhere other than a hot spot that shorts out the top coil. After that tank dry burn it clean and poke out any hot spots. When dry burning you'll notice it likes to heat the top coil and possibly short. Mine do that every time. Pulse your dry burns until you get it heated enough to start cleaning off the lower wraps.
I find trying to finish it perfectly when new to be a pain because if it gets too hot it's going to burn what little insulation you have and short.
If I have one that's stubborn getting close enough I'll start dripping some liquid on it and pulsing it off.

Don't take SS wick advice from those who turn around and say you'll switch to something else. They obviously can't do it.