I'm sold on the rich man. Any place else to get it? Rich man vapor is out of stock
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Review: The Youde AGI - Vape Squad
I looked into the agi a while back, the ability to use it as a tank OR drip was very appealing until I came across this. Review: The Youde AGI - Vape Squad
There are better options, and I don't need a device that does both. It's a cool feature like the MVP, but I'm never going I have a need to charge my phone with my Ecig or use the passthrough. Both cool features but I wouldn't utilize them.
U will learn a lot from starting with a aga-t2, and u will have to mess around a bit to get it working. But when u do get it working, ur set for all other gennies, can u master a T2 u can master any gennie.
Rsst is easier to set up, but, it cant compare to the quality vape u get from a T2, T2 delivers outstanding vape for the price and it will perform as well as many/most 100 bucks gennies.
Rsst is easier to set up, but, it cant compare to the quality vape u get from a T2, T2 delivers outstanding vape for the price and it will perform as well as many/most 100 bucks gennies.
So the t2 isn't a good one to start with but if I do and I stick with it I'll get great results and learn the skills nessecary to rebuild almost any genny very well
I think I'm going to start with this one. Basicly a sooped up t2 and it looks amazing. What do you guys think? Richman Rebuildable Atomizer rba
You hit a couple on the head, I've heard a lot of great things about ceramic and rope and the other day I tried a cotton thread in the center channel of mesh, there endless ways to experiment, but ceramic wicks are a tad expensive and a bit scarce. Rope is my next adventure because I take my mod to work and there will be a sure fire breakage with ceramic.
Aga-T2 IS a great gennie to start out with. I started out with it myself and its still one of my fav devices. What it comes down to is, are u ready for a few hours hassle to learn and get a great vape? if not, then the rsst is a better option, but u will never get the same quality vape from a rsst as u do from a T2.
There is so many vids out there now on how to set up a T2, its basicly just watch and learn. The problem u will have to solve on the t2 is the top coil wrapp hotspot, but honestly its not that hard to deal with if u follow instructions on vids or what people tell u to do. There are ways around it tho, some people remove the positive pole nuts, and replace it with a spring and washer system like the rsst have, and that removes pretty much the whole top hotspot problem.
Its as simple as this; take a spring from a pen, if u have a vivi nova, on the top silicone piece there its a washer, place this on top of the spring and put 1 of the nuts back the pole. Or of course use a tiny washer from something else. doesnt matter what its from as long as u can get the nut on it on top. Some prefer a big washer since that also brings the connection closer to the wick.
There is so many vids out there now on how to set up a T2, its basicly just watch and learn. The problem u will have to solve on the t2 is the top coil wrapp hotspot, but honestly its not that hard to deal with if u follow instructions on vids or what people tell u to do. There are ways around it tho, some people remove the positive pole nuts, and replace it with a spring and washer system like the rsst have, and that removes pretty much the whole top hotspot problem.
Its as simple as this; take a spring from a pen, if u have a vivi nova, on the top silicone piece there its a washer, place this on top of the spring and put 1 of the nuts back the pole. Or of course use a tiny washer from something else. doesnt matter what its from as long as u can get the nut on it on top. Some prefer a big washer since that also brings the connection closer to the wick.
That looks like a good device, but one thing i see is that the topcap/chamber looks huge, wich aint nessaserly a good thing. i see they are out of stock tho. Not sure where u can get one like that elsewhere, if at all.
Dont be afraid of going for a stock t2 either, they do a great job and the design is proven and tested by 1000's.
Kidneypuncher has the stock t2 and also some "improved" topcaps you can buy if u feel thats needed. Im considering trying one of their reduced champer topcaps myself, but i find them a bit on the expensive side, and i hope there will be cheaper alternatives aviable later.
I was planning on more than a few hours! I was anticipating closer to a couple weeks worth of evenings!!
i love this idea, this will make things so much easier! And the richman is the same platform as the t2, so all modifications and how to videos on the t2 will apply to the richman too!
Yep thats true. If ur set on the richman send them an email and see when its back in stock, or check if its aviable in other store under a diffrent name. Other users on here might know of simular beefed up devises too.
I doubt u will need a couple of weeks. I was totally new to gennies or rbas in general. I spent a couple of evenings burning off a few coilwires, getting ...... and frustrated, but when i got it working i was like, yeah its def worth the effort.
What kinda mod will u be using it on? u will wanna order some kanthal wire and mesh too. The wire that comes with the gennies is usually very thin and burns off way to easy. some thicker wire is much easier to handle, but u cant use too thick unless ur on a mexh mod, like for example a vamo wont fire below 1,1 ohms, and works best on 1.5-2.0 ohms. wich u can use approx 4 wrapps of 28 gauge or 5 wrapps or 30gauge unless im totally mistaken. Im used to millimeters, so 4 wrapps of 0.2mm, or 5 of 0.25mm. any device cept mechanical mod this is what u should aim for.
If u use a mech mod, you can use 30 or 32 awg, approx 4 wrapps 32 awg should land u on around 1.0 ohm wich is a good starting point for a mech.
Grabb some #400 or 500 mesh, or some of both. 500 wicks better, and it kind of overwicks a bit, but it makes it easier to set up since it will keep ur wick wet all the time and avoiding hotspots easier. 400 is mostly prefered, but i recomond to start with 500 and rather go down to 400 when u get the hang of it.
A mesh piece, approx 38mm in height and 60mm length makes a good wick on 400mesh, same height and 50-55mm length on 500 mesh makes a good wick. On some vids u will see they oxidize/torch the entire wick. Dont do that, only torch and oxidize the toppart where ur coil is going to be, and a lil bit down the wickhole. This makes for better wicking and less distortion on ur flavours.
My two cents on newbee gennie setup; always aim at 4-5 coilwrapps around the wick, this makes for the best contact/heat. 6 wrapps is ok, but it tends to get tight between the wrapps and much harder to get it sorted out. 3 wrapps will work, but its not optimal.
So basicly, use the thickest possible kanthal wire that will fit ur ohm aim and wrapps, since thicker wire makes it a whole lot easier to deal with. Remember the t hicker the wire, the lower ur ohm will be.
Edit: I also wanna mention Ribbon kanthal. This doesnt burn off as easy as the regular kanthal, but its a bit more springy and harder to wrapp tight around the coil. Wouldnt hurt to get a small spool of this too incase u like it better. 0.5mm ribbon kanthal will give u approx 2.ohms on 5 wrapps on the t2 wick.
PS all the mesh sizes, coilwrapps etc im mentioning is for the T2, idk if the richman is identical, but it should still work pretty good, only thing is to make sure the height of the wick fits ur device.
I doubt u will need a couple of weeks. I was totally new to gennies or rbas in general. I spent a couple of evenings burning off a few coilwires, getting ...... and frustrated, but when i got it working i was like, yeah its def worth the effort.
What kinda mod will u be using it on? u will wanna order some kanthal wire and mesh too. The wire that comes with the gennies is usually very thin and burns off way to easy. some thicker wire is much easier to handle, but u cant use too thick unless ur on a mexh mod, like for example a vamo wont fire below 1,1 ohms, and works best on 1.5-2.0 ohms. wich u can use approx 4 wrapps of 28 gauge or 5 wrapps or 30gauge unless im totally mistaken. Im used to millimeters, so 4 wrapps of 0.2mm, or 5 of 0.25mm. any device cept mechanical mod this is what u should aim for.
If u use a mech mod, you can use 30 or 32 awg, approx 4 wrapps 32 awg should land u on around 1.0 ohm wich is a good starting point for a mech.
Grabb some #400 or 500 mesh, or some of both. 500 wicks better, and it kind of overwicks a bit, but it makes it easier to set up since it will keep ur wick wet all the time and avoiding hotspots easier. 400 is mostly prefered, but i recomond to start with 500 and rather go down to 400 when u get the hang of it.
A mesh piece, approx 38mm in height and 60mm length makes a good wick on 400mesh, same height and 50-55mm length on 500 mesh makes a good wick. On some vids u will see they oxidize/torch the entire wick. Dont do that, only torch and oxidize the toppart where ur coil is going to be, and a lil bit down the wickhole. This makes for better wicking and less distortion on ur flavours.
My two cents on newbee gennie setup; always aim at 4-5 coilwrapps around the wick, this makes for the best contact/heat. 6 wrapps is ok, but it tends to get tight between the wrapps and much harder to get it sorted out. 3 wrapps will work, but its not optimal.
So basicly, use the thickest possible kanthal wire that will fit ur ohm aim and wrapps, since thicker wire makes it a whole lot easier to deal with. Remember the t hicker the wire, the lower ur ohm will be.
Edit: I also wanna mention Ribbon kanthal. This doesnt burn off as easy as the regular kanthal, but its a bit more springy and harder to wrapp tight around the coil. Wouldnt hurt to get a small spool of this too incase u like it better. 0.5mm ribbon kanthal will give u approx 2.ohms on 5 wrapps on the t2 wick.
PS all the mesh sizes, coilwrapps etc im mentioning is for the T2, idk if the richman is identical, but it should still work pretty good, only thing is to make sure the height of the wick fits ur device.
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I'm not too new to rebuildables, i started rebuilding my protank coils with 1.6 ohm microcoils about a month ago and I've been working with a Nimbus clone, a Trident clone, and and Igo-l for a couple weeks now. Already have the a1 kanthal in 28,30, and 32 from temco as well as organic cotton balls from while foods and some awesome cotton yarn.
I'll be running it on a variety of devices to see what works best. I want to do a dna20 build sometime this year. For now either the SVD/vamov3, a k101, a chi-u clone, or an all brass m16 clone will be what I'll be running it on.
I don't remember exactly what was said, but kanthal ribbon is made from kanthal wire I believe. They press it and flatten it and then fold it over on itself. This creates a seam which burns hotter than the rest of the wire, causing inconsistent performance. This is just what I was told, I don't know though, dude could be wrong. It can't be too bad or nobody would use it.
By the way i think i messed up the gauge on the kanthal again, 28 is thick and 32 is thin isnt it? But my MM diameter is correct, just to clarify.
Oki man, i think u will do a gennie without problems then, when u have done microcoils you can do this, Its the same thing. If you want u can also use the Petar-K method, wich is basicly making a microcoil on ur gennie using a drillbit down the wickhole, thats also an easy way to start.
That might be correct on the ribbon kanthal, i guess it has pros and cons. I like to use it for the reason it burns hot, since its flat it has a larger contact surface and heats more of the wick. Also its easier to clean it when the coil gets gunked up, since it dont break off so easily. That being said, i use ribbon sometimes, regular other times, not really that much diffrence between them. But hey, its cheap as dirt so its worth a try.
Sounds like ur set and ready to go with ur mods, do u also shop on fasttech? Im waiting on some mech clones myself and is vaping away on my trusted vamo2 as i type.
Gennies are truely a great vape, you definitly have something to look forward too
Oki man, i think u will do a gennie without problems then, when u have done microcoils you can do this, Its the same thing. If you want u can also use the Petar-K method, wich is basicly making a microcoil on ur gennie using a drillbit down the wickhole, thats also an easy way to start.
That might be correct on the ribbon kanthal, i guess it has pros and cons. I like to use it for the reason it burns hot, since its flat it has a larger contact surface and heats more of the wick. Also its easier to clean it when the coil gets gunked up, since it dont break off so easily. That being said, i use ribbon sometimes, regular other times, not really that much diffrence between them. But hey, its cheap as dirt so its worth a try.
Sounds like ur set and ready to go with ur mods, do u also shop on fasttech? Im waiting on some mech clones myself and is vaping away on my trusted vamo2 as i type.
Gennies are truely a great vape, you definitly have something to look forward too
Yes I've ordered all of my stuff from them. I'm not experienced enough to buy a 65-100$ dripper like the nimbus or trident yet, so I got the 5-15$ clones. Same with the m16 and chi-u. Riptrippers did a few comparisons, 2 of them being those, and the difference in performance between the real one and clone was very minimal so I said what the hell. And I'm happy with them so far. Just feels like a step backward going back to a dripper from the protank. But performance on these are awesome, just wish I didn't have to drop every 5-10 hits and carry around a bottle. Love my protanks. So yeah, goin to the gennys soon!
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Yep same here hayep nothing wrong with that, clones are a good way to find out what works for you. Much of the stuff performs very well too, so ideal for me since i dont have unlimited founds
The only problem ISO vape citrus and cinnamon juices as well as pluid so I have to do a non plastic tank
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