Help me Please....Mech mods and RBAs

[SoonerChris]

So I made a decision to step into the mechanical mods arena and I guess, based off everything I have read, I need to start building my own coils. First, what issues will I have with a 3ohm cartomizer and a GP Paps 2.5, if any?

Now, questions about RBA. I have an IBT tank and am trying to figure out where I should start. Should I buy a Killer/Diver? Should I go with a whole system al la, Kayfun, etc.

When I start building coils what ohm should I be shooting for that will work best with the Paps? I think I jumped into the deep end a little too quick and need some help.

Can someone point me in the right direction....quick.

 

[SteveW]

It is not relevant that it is a paps. The following will be true of any mechanical. You have 4v available on a fresh battery and after voltage drop, maybe around 3.8 for a good mech mod if you are lucky. If you are working with 3 ohms of resistance you are not getting much power (4.8 watts). Not enough power to properly vaporize your liquids. 2ohm to me would be the highest resistance you would contemplate. I usually try for 1 ohm coils but that is personal taste. Do some experiments with a VV device like a vamo or provari if you have one to find out your sweet spot and aim to make coils that will match that for your mechanicals.

 

[SoonerChris]

So, with my Sigelei, my sweet spot is around 8w on a 2.5ohm coil or 7w on a 3ohm carto. Guess the first thing I need to do is understand Ohm's Law.

Keep the tips coming, gawd I need them.

 

[SteveW]

Ohms law is a good rule of thumb to get a rough idea (not the whole story of course because of voltage drop under load). Very simple maths and there are plenty of calculators on line if you have a look out there. Remember that the lower the resistance, the higher the drop under load and the more work your battery is being asked to do.

 

[SoonerChris]

So if I wasn't to go with rebuildable, would I be ok with 2ohm cartomizers?

 

[Thrasher]

for a mech i get excellent results with a coil right around 1.2 to 1.4 ohms any higher and it works fine but the vapor tapers off from lack of power.
with a cart o would try some 1.5 ohm dual coils, they gonna eat the battery but should give you plenty of vapor before they do.

2 ohms will likely be fine for around the first hour or so. and then the battery just wont have the topend kick anymore.
the killer or diver is a nice atty (never owned one so i dont know the rebuild) i ran a 1.3 ohm in my kayfun just to see how it would run on my mech and it works great.
until you try it, the low ohms at high wattage doesnt seem to make sense, the first thought is this high of a wattage will burn and taste nasty. but theres something about a flat DC line voltage that makes them work different, so lower(R)on a mech is better (for battery/vape life and vape power)

an easy way to get some experience and understanding with a mech is play with a cheap dripper a bit, dont have to stick with it but a few different coils and you get to see just what works and what doesnt without wasting something like cartos. and who knows - im not a big all around mech fan but i sure love dripping on one.

(drip drip KAPOW!!! why does the monitor look all fuzzy now lol)

 

[SkinyFatMan]

With RBA's like the Kayfun being kinda expensive (at least to me), I'd say if you're thinking that you might want to go the mech/rba way, try an inexpensive mech (like the KTS+) with a RDA (like the Igo-L). you can get both at fasttech.com and would only need to come out of pocket less than $35 for the pair. Then you just need wire and wick material and you can test and build to your hearts content.

One of the things that a lot of people have been doing lately is micro-coils in an RBA or RDA which alows for higher ohm coils with a low ohm feel. Then you can keep the VV/VW mod you have all ready, and only have to come out of pocket for the rba/rda, wire, and wick.

Just my