Help me understand something...

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Shipwreck

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On another note... I had no idea what you were talking about when I read about CD demagnitizing so I had to look it up!! You guys have to read the first two posts on this site! Its the most BS filled post I have EVER read!! Then the second post is just basically saying if you noobs or "illiterates" don't agree with me to GTHO!
CD DeMagnetizing | Stereophile.com

OK.... I TRIED to read all of both posts on that link, but I had to stop after a bit on the first one, and move to the second post, where again I had to stop after reading a bit... Reason being.... I got tired of spitting my coffee onto my laptop every time a sudden involuntary laugh occurred. Having been in the music industry since I was 13, and I am 50 this year... Including in the recording and production side, I can verify that ckquatt is 100% in his summation of the material in question being total BS... LMAO Did I sound scientific enough there? LOL
 
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ckquatt

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OK.... I TRIED to read all of both posts on that link, but I had to stop after a bit on the first one, and move to the second post, where again I had to stop after reading a bit... Reason being.... I got tired of spitting my coffee onto my laptop every time a sudden involuntary laugh occurred. Having been in the music industry since I was 13, and I am 50 this year... Including in the recording and production side, I can verify that ckquatt is 100% in his summation of the material in question being total BS... LMAO Did I sound scientific enough there? LOL
:lol::laugh::lol:

It gets worse!!! There's 10 pages of it!! Even a very thorough scientific test outline! Its amazing how people on there were defending this as being a real thing! I've been spitting coffee all morning! I can't stop reading it!
 
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WharfRat1976

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I'm not quite sure what the difference is between operating in VV vs VW is. a worker at a B&M said I'll get more "performance" out of VW mode ... But in my mind Ohm's law rules. If I run my Atlantis .5 at 4.2 volts, that's 29.4 watts. I understand that I can up watts a bit without affecting the voltage reading (maybe it affects it beyond the decimal places the istick 50 can display?) but am I theoretically squeezing any more performance out of the coil? I'll be honest and say that it only makes a difference when the wattage reaches the borderland between one voltage output and the next and even that seems to be very minor.

I hope that makes sense. IOW, if I like the vape at 4.2 volts, then am I actually gaining anything by upping wattage without changing voltage? My initial experiments tell me "not really," but the science part of my head wants a better answer. Maybe I'm missing something?
It boils down to marketing BS. Just like temp control, all marketing BS to move more product.
 

mattiem

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It boils down to marketing BS. Just like temp control, all marketing BS to move more product.

Yep, the one we are selling this week is so much better than the one we came out with last week :D

BTW. I set both my istick's and mvp's on VV and stay there. up and down is easy. A bit easier on the istick since it goes both up and down. Gotta go all the way around on the MVP.

VV works for me and what ever makes one happy is what works for them. Ain't life, with choices, great.
 

Shipwreck

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:lol::laugh::lol:

It gets worse!!! There's 10 pages of it!! Even a very thorough scientific test outline! Its amazing how people on there were defending this as being a real thing! I've been spitting coffee all morning! I can't stop reading it!

Oh my frikin lord LOL.... 10 pages of that crap???? LOL I remember when that who demagnetizing CDs thing started. Some people were even saying they found hidden tracks on CDs after demagnetizing them LOL.
 
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puddinman

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Voltage mode is like a manual mode you use a voltage fixed by you that won't change no matter what the resistance of the coil so the "power" watts given will be voltage squared, divided by resistance of the coil. If you want to vape at a specific Wattage you need to use ohms law to work out the voltage needed.

In Wattage mode its like an automatic mode you set the watts you want and the chip will do the calulations for you and set at appropriate voltage for the resistance to achieve the wattage you set.
This is a good analogy, thanks!

And thanks to all who have answered here...a follow up: not all attys can handle high watt output. For example: while experimenting with my iStick 50, I had an Atlantis .5 on and found the sweet spot around around 30W (which read at 4.2v). Later, I swapped out for a Nautilus Mini 1.8. because it still had a juice I liked in it. I neglected to change the wattage setting and took a hit which turned out wayyyyyy too hot -the volts were somewhere over 7. I lowered the wattage significantly, finding the sweet spot again, and it ended up at about -guess what?- 4.2v.

This suggests to me that, at least initially, setting the voltage is best. If I set at 4.2 volts, then no matter what resistance head I throw on there, the vape should be close to what I like. Then I can switch to wattage and "fine tune," to find the sweet spot for that particular juice/head combo.

It occurs to me that what I'm really doing is trying to reach a certain coil temperature. What really varies is the juice -each one might taste better at different temperatures. Voltage and Wattage are just means to affect the temperature.

Time for a TC mod?
 

roxynoodle

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I prefer vw. I think its a more consistant vape as the mod will adjust the voltage based on the resistance of the coil (which can change through heating/cooling cycles, age of the coil, gunking). You also can fine tune more. For example, the resistance might dictate 4.2v from 13.8W through 14.3W. So you have a 0.5W range to dial in your perfect vape. I like the ability to fine tune more.
 
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