And just for clarification, the 134 is a VW only - there is no option to change the volts.
HELP!!! My BRAND NEW Itaste 134 acting WEIRD!!! Wrong Battery? Bad Mod? Confussed!!! :(
- Thread starter EtherMagic
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Correct, only VW.
To answer a couple questions...
My button no matter how hard im pressing on it in either direction it does not matter, straight down, left right, NOPE! Not making this thing work any better.
I just got 4 good hits off of it, then come the 5th-6th-7th, nothing but a tiny tiny ploom of vape, other times no vape, it does nothing. And when it does work, it actually feels like the thing is charging up my carto instead of instantly giving it the juice it needs.I purchased my IMR from Hooshierecigs, they have a good rep around here (from what I read), I believe I received a legit Battery, hope it's not a knockoff. I'm going to order some more, can someone suggest a good site to order some legit AW IMR Bats from?
Thanks again guys
EM
Grim green has a YouTube video posted where he talks about a similar issue (though not as bad) with this device. Seems as though the 134 checks the ohms each time it is activated then gives the power to the atomizer. Might help to watch his video. But if its not activating at all I would contact the vendor for an exchange.
Correct, only VW.
To answer a couple questions...
My button no matter how hard im pressing on it in either direction it does not matter, straight down, left right, NOPE! Not making this thing work any better.
I purchased my IMR from Hooshierecigs, they have a good rep around here (from what I read), I believe I received a legit Battery, hope it's not a knockoff. I'm going to order some more, can someone suggest a good site to order some legit AW IMR Bats from?
Thanks again guys
EM
I got mine from Discountvapors and once the MSRP was lifted I got a $35 store credit.
Too many people think batteries are batteries but one shouldn't cut corners when purchasing them.
I just sent the below e-mail to Innokin. Their e-mail address is: support@innokin.com
Please.....to all who are experiencing this issue send an e-mail to Innokin to report the same issue! Maybe they will help if many complaints are sent to them? This thing is not cheap! Innokin needs to make this right for all of us!
Dear Innokin:
I just purchased an iTaste 134 and am having an issue with it. It is silver.
The issue is the fact that it turns itself off. I may get 10-12 hits on it then it shuts itself off. I have to push the button 3 times to turn it back on.
This is my second 134. My first one did the exact same thing so I returned it to the vendor. The replacement 134 is doing the exact same thing! This is two 134's with identical issues.
I also have a black 134 and it is perfect....no issues whatsoever.
I am not the only person experiencing this issue. There are many people on the Electronic Cigarette Forum who are complaining of the exact same issue. Here are links to these conversations:
itaste 134 issues
and
HELP!!! My BRAND NEW Itaste 134 acting WEIRD!!! Wrong Battery? Bad Mod? Confussed!!!
I do not want to go back to my vendor as they are very small and should not have to mess with another return. It seems like this is the issue with most people who have purchased a 134.
Please help me.
Rob Robinson
Please.....to all who are experiencing this issue send an e-mail to Innokin to report the same issue! Maybe they will help if many complaints are sent to them? This thing is not cheap! Innokin needs to make this right for all of us!
Dear Innokin:
I just purchased an iTaste 134 and am having an issue with it. It is silver.
The issue is the fact that it turns itself off. I may get 10-12 hits on it then it shuts itself off. I have to push the button 3 times to turn it back on.
This is my second 134. My first one did the exact same thing so I returned it to the vendor. The replacement 134 is doing the exact same thing! This is two 134's with identical issues.
I also have a black 134 and it is perfect....no issues whatsoever.
I am not the only person experiencing this issue. There are many people on the Electronic Cigarette Forum who are complaining of the exact same issue. Here are links to these conversations:
itaste 134 issues
and
HELP!!! My BRAND NEW Itaste 134 acting WEIRD!!! Wrong Battery? Bad Mod? Confussed!!!
I do not want to go back to my vendor as they are very small and should not have to mess with another return. It seems like this is the issue with most people who have purchased a 134.
Please help me.
Rob Robinson
About an hour ago I opened my brand new iTaste 134, I filled up my brand new Salt and Pepper Carto Tank (with a dual coil atty in it), turned the device on, and started vaping (well kind of started vaping!). As the instructions stated, I put an 18650 battery in it, but the instructions state an "IMR" 18650 (I'll ask this question in a minute).
Anyways... I start vaping, first hit was GREAT, a TON of vapor! Then came the second hit, third, and 4th, with NO activation when pressing the button (button did glow a tiny bit green then light died out), I got NO vape. Then comes the fifth hit and it works great again! As I started to try to vape some more, when pressing the button it only activates a little bit some of the time, only getting a tiny bit of vape!
After turning it off, then back on again, then off and on, and trying to vape each time, only half the time the thing hits/works as it should. I thought maybe it could be the Carto, so I switched out the Salt and pepper tank with my Vivi nova that I have on my Tesla Mod. I start to vape with the Vivi Nova, and the same thing is happening, so it's not my carto or atty! It feels like this thing has a mind of it's own, also it seems to activate better when I leave the Mod alone for a couple of minutes. I read through the entire instructions, and I am not doing anything wrong! I've been vaping since 2009, I'm not new to this game, but I am a bit new to Mods.
So here is a couple questions I have...
Is "IMR" as far as the battery is concerned just a namebrand? I'm wondering if this is happening because of the battery (it obviously would make sense). I tried 2 separate battery's, both 2200 mah 18650's with no success.
2nd question is... Can this be a short within the electrical components of the iTaste 134? Basically, do you guys think I received a bad unit?
3rd... Has this ever happened to anyone on here before (with any Mod)? If so what was the issue?
This has been so frustrating! Any help would be appreciated!
Thank You
EM
EDIT: Thanks for all your answers guys!
Quick update: I actually did put a IMR 18650 Battery in it (I tore off the stickers when I received it, just checked the order number on the site I bought it from, and it is an IMR 18650), but this battery was the one that was in my Tesla all day that I have been vaping, so it was very low and is charging now.
The "very first" battery I put in the iTaste 134 was a no name brand battery (freshly charged) that I received with my Tesla kit.
This "No Namebrand 18650 battery" operates at 2200mah, while the 18650 IMR operates at 2000mah. I'm wondering if the mah has anything to do with it? I am charging my IMR right now, if it does not work right after a full charge, it is obviously the unit.
BTW, I just put a fresh battery in the iTaste (one of the no name battery's), and it hit great the first 5 hits or so, then the shorting out started happening again.
its not your battery or the cartomizer, i purchased one today and i got the same problem, its the button! when you press down and ease off the button it stops firing. btw the button should not wiggle at all, i had a button that was loose and i went back and changed it. but that new one i got was doing the same thing. u have to press the button hard enough and you cant ease off it other wise it stops firing. its not shorting out trust me. press the button and ease off it a bit ull see it will stop firing
gl
I received a 134 that did the exact same thing...intermittent hits, and a faint "buzzing" when the button was pressed. Sent back to vendor, new one works excellent...no issues whatsoever. I'd for sure send it back while it's under warranty (90 days I believe) small vendor or not. the size of the vendor shouldn't make any difference in whether or not you get value for money.
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Why tear off the stickers?
Thanks for all your answers guys!
Quick update: I actually did put a IMR 18650 Battery in it (I tore off the stickers when I received it, just checked the order number on the site I bought it from, and it is an IMR 18650), but this battery was the one that was in my Tesla all day that I have been vaping, so it was very low and is charging now.
The very first battery I put in the iTaste 134 was a no name brand battery (freshly charged) that I received with my Tesla kit.
This "No Namebrand 18650 battery" operates at 2200mah, while the 18650 IMR operates at 2000mah. I'm wondering if the mah has anything to do with it? I am charging my IMR right now, if it does not work right after a full charge, it is obviously the unit.
BTW, I just put a fresh battery in the iTaste (one of the no name battery's), and it hit great the first 5 hits or so, then the shorting out started happening again.
when you chang the wattage your also changing the voltage.
get yourself a wattage/voltage/ohms chart and it will give you an idea of what your votages are at certain watts
get yourself a wattage/voltage/ohms chart and it will give you an idea of what your votages are at certain watts
Sounds like you have a bad unit. This is exactly why I'll only ever use mech mods now. My first 3 units were vv/vw mods that were ALL either DOA or had some wierd mystery problem, like the mod staying hot all day as the circuit board silently drained the battery. I hate that mystery, trying to figure out whats wrong with a circuit board in a chamber filled with glue and welded shut. After getting three units with circuit board problems in a row I got a mech and have been mystery/problem free ever since.
Just a quick note about terminology...
Most people use the term 'short' when it isn't a short. If you're device actually had a short, it would/could cause the battery to get very hot very quickly and quite possibly explode. A short is generally an unwanted connection. Electrical shorts are usually very, very bad. Shorts cause things to arc, blow up and/or blow fuses.
It actually means 'short circuit.' The circuit should consist of the power source, the load (device), then back to the power source. A short circuit would be like replacing the load with a straight piece of wire. Very very bad stuff.
Most people use the term 'short' when it isn't a short. If you're device actually had a short, it would/could cause the battery to get very hot very quickly and quite possibly explode. A short is generally an unwanted connection. Electrical shorts are usually very, very bad. Shorts cause things to arc, blow up and/or blow fuses.
It actually means 'short circuit.' The circuit should consist of the power source, the load (device), then back to the power source. A short circuit would be like replacing the load with a straight piece of wire. Very very bad stuff.
That is not necessarily true. A short circuit doesn't have to be directly from the positive to the negative of the battery. In your summary of the circuit you forgot the circuit board which has all kinds of complex electric paths, any one of which could be shorted. This doesn't mean the battery will drain at full speed, it could just make the board behave in ways it wasn't engineered to. My previous post mentioning a VV mod that stayed warm all day due to faulty circuit board almost certainly had a short in it. That doesn't mean it's malfunction will necessarily be as violent as arcing or blowing up.
Have you ever heard of circuit bending? It's where indie hippies take apart their old childhood speak and spell and make "musical" farting noises by shorting electrical paths all over the board. Nothing blows up it just makes the synthesizers behave differently (and probably die slowly).
An atomizer is just a single resistor, and yes if it get's a short (and the mod is not protected), it's going to drain the battery at full force. But OP doesn't likely have an atomizer short, sounds more like one somewhere in the electronics of the device.
This is not the first I have heard of 134s having this problem btw.
Just to note: I got two 18650 Sanyo/Panasonic 3400mAh IMR's that I purchased when I ordered the 134. These don't have "nipples" but they work just fine. Huge lifespan and short charge time (2-3hrs) if you can set your charger to 1A. Make sure you're using the right charger and all - these batteries came with lots of warnings for a reason. I even use a charge bag.
On the device shutting off: The ignition button has a tendency to "rock" on the contact and this can cause accidental shut off. It took me a couple of weeks to get the feel for it. I still shut mine off once in a while.
On the device shutting off: The ignition button has a tendency to "rock" on the contact and this can cause accidental shut off. It took me a couple of weeks to get the feel for it. I still shut mine off once in a while.
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Roger that. I've done consumer and pro electronics repair for decades. One of my little pet peeves is when people refer to any electrical anomaly as a short.
I just got my 134 and it's doing the same thing, the buzzing and the rattling button. Mine even shut itself down a few times until I figured out you have to press down hard on the button. It vales like a dream but did I get a bad unit?
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