Help picking atomizer

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PNW Rider

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I have been away from the forum for a while, happily vamping my grand with rm2. Well she got stolen and is now being replaced with the LP version so that hopefully I could get a slightly larger atomizer. I currently use a 6 wrap micro coil of 27awg kanthal and it works great, but I think I could cool down the vapor on this hot little coil with a larger chamber. What do you suggest?
I may or may not ever build dual coils, I get plenty of vapor without doing so but i am open to it. I don't want to HAVE to build duals.
Alright, there is my question and thank you for your help and consideration!
 
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thewomenfolk

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I have the RM2, RM3, Cyclone, and Odin. And I'm about to fall down on the side of using only the RM2 in a single coil between 1.2 and 1.8 Ohms. It's just perfect, great flavor and vapor. Why complicate things. I think the Odin is more for those who want to do dual-coils and possibly direct lung hits and sub-ohming. The Cyclone (IMO) is way to small to build on and has hex screws which I don't like.

The RM2 is simply the cat's meow for me, and I can build dual-coils (if I want...) on the RM3 that's got the 2 air holes in the cap. If you're happy with single coils, why bother with having to build two? That's just my 2 cents. Of course, everyone here including myself perfectly understands the curiousity and desire to just see what other attys can do. But in the end, I've found the smaller attys with the small chambers work best, so for me it's RM2 with the ceramic deck. :)
 
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PNW Rider

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I was always happy with the rm2 but I know I would like something just a hair bigger to help control heat without compromising airflow. The other point of consideration for me is that the RM is nickel plated brass.... Eventually that nickel coating chips or scratches off, possibly contaminating juice. Not a huge deal in comparison to analogs but still....
 

Filthy-Beast

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Airflow more than chamber size will effect the temp of the vape. size of chamber will effect flavor, smaller chambers more flavor.

with an LP Reo your options open up.

I would stick with an LP Rm2 or Rm3 for flavor. If you want to get into dual and air flow control, Then Cyclone with AFC, RM4 or Odin. But as you move to these larger chamber RBAs you'll loose some flavor.
 

Filthy-Beast

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I was always happy with the rm2 but I know I would like something just a hair bigger to help control heat without compromising airflow. The other point of consideration for me is that the RM is nickel plated brass.... Eventually that nickel coating chips or scratches off, possibly contaminating juice. Not a huge deal in comparison to analogs but still....

The RM2 is actually very good at keeping heat down because the ceramic deck doesn't transfer heat like the all metal deck will. Are you talking the heat of the vape or the RM2 itself?

Were you running stock air hole or did you drill it out larger?
 

PNW Rider

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Definitely with that coil I was drilled out. Can't remember what size but it was big. I had the coil directly in front of it. My build is perfect for what I liked on the rm2 but it could have been a little cooler with a larger atomizer. I tried a dripping atomizer with a similar setup that was larger and it gave a much cooler vape.
 

BockinBboy

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It is the RM2. The difference between the LP RM2 (listed as lp reomizer on the rob's site), and regular RM2 is that the regular RM2 had to be milled down on the outside bottom edge in order to accommodate the deep catch cup. The LP 'version' has not been milled down at all. They are indeed the same atomizer other than the part that is milled on the standard version to fit the original, deeper catch cup on the grands.

- Bboy
 

BockinBboy

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I Really dig the RM3, and it is all stainless. Very similar vape to the RM2. The options on the RM3 are whether you want single or dual coil - the only real difference between these two are the caps. The single has one 1/16''air hole, and the dual has two 3/64'' air holes. It also seems the dual has a better fitment of the cap to the base for some reason.

This chart may be helpful to you, it gives you all the stats of Rob's current Reomizers.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...hysical-comparison-chart-rm2-rm3-rm4-rm5.html

- Bboy

ETA: Note that the RM3 not technically ALL stainless - Cap and Deck are stainless, posts are brass nickel plated.
 
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PNW Rider

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Thank you all for the help. I'm still torn on what to do... For about the tenth time, I have made a cart over at mountain oak for a VA Cyclone but still can't decide if it's worth it... Some people say that can't build on the cyclone.. It seems to me that it would be easier because you don't have to twist the top cap on...?
 

Filthy-Beast

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Thank you all for the help. I'm still torn on what to do... For about the tenth time, I have made a cart over at mountain oak for a VA Cyclone but still can't decide if it's worth it... Some people say that can't build on the cyclone.. It seems to me that it would be easier because you don't have to twist the top cap on...?

The cyclone will be very close to the RM2 for flavor with a similar coil and is all SS. But not as easy to build since it won't have spread posts or ceramic deck.

Cyclone : divo : Cyclone + AFC : RM2 : Patriot

IMAG1817-L.jpg


IMAG1815-L.jpg
 

thewomenfolk

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You're getting some good honest information. It's good to get all this before choosing what to buy. I wouldn't buy the Cyclone again because the interior is so tiny and hard to get a coil in there right without touching the cap, etc. I do like the slide on caps better than screw ons but I don't like building on the Cyclone. I just don't think it gets better than the RM2. :)
 
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