Help please !!!!!
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A simple cheap bic lighter will do. You can pick up a pack of 8 for a buck or two at most of your dollar stores.
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Ya.. free shipping... Otherwise you can get one here: http://www.harborfreight.com/butane-torch-save-on-this-butane-micro-torch-60645.html
Started to read the whole thread but gave up.
Most of all of us have been there and done that and learned the hard way- sorry i know that statement doesn't help.
If it were me
- I would soak the atty in water and vinegar for about an hour then rinse and dry it
-make sure all oils are out of the cracks and crevices of the atty.
-use 28g instead of 24g- 24 works great when you're suborning but you're not you're trying to do 1 ohm and 24g is to thick to heat at such a large build for it.
-28g at 10-12 wraps should get you somewhere between 0.9 and 1.2 ohm depending on what you're wrapping around.
-Install the coil without it being torched
-build it Untorched as we'll keeps it more malleable and easier to work with
-Once installed dry burn it and when you release the fire button use some pliers to close the gaps in the coil by piling the cool together gently with the pliers- it'll take a few dry burns to do this (this process takes the place of torching it and let's you harden to coil in place I find it easier to get the coil to burn evenly this way)
-Use small pieces of cotton it'll take smaller than you think as cotton expands when wet or use silica- no shame in silica some prefer it.
Hopefully that helps you a bit
Sorry you're having issues. But as I've said we've all learned the same way.
Most of all of us have been there and done that and learned the hard way- sorry i know that statement doesn't help.
If it were me
- I would soak the atty in water and vinegar for about an hour then rinse and dry it
-make sure all oils are out of the cracks and crevices of the atty.
-use 28g instead of 24g- 24 works great when you're suborning but you're not you're trying to do 1 ohm and 24g is to thick to heat at such a large build for it.
-28g at 10-12 wraps should get you somewhere between 0.9 and 1.2 ohm depending on what you're wrapping around.
-Install the coil without it being torched
-build it Untorched as we'll keeps it more malleable and easier to work with
-Once installed dry burn it and when you release the fire button use some pliers to close the gaps in the coil by piling the cool together gently with the pliers- it'll take a few dry burns to do this (this process takes the place of torching it and let's you harden to coil in place I find it easier to get the coil to burn evenly this way)
-Use small pieces of cotton it'll take smaller than you think as cotton expands when wet or use silica- no shame in silica some prefer it.
Hopefully that helps you a bit
Sorry you're having issues. But as I've said we've all learned the same way.
Couldn't be more right, since the same amount of wraps and gauge could be way off from another build that reads a certain Ohms just by how the coils are placed or if moved slightly up or down, forward or backwards.
If you're use a mech to dry burn your coil with no kick, you are putting the full 4 volts accross the coil so you have to be carefull not to hold the button down too long otherwise you can burn out the coil.
With my vamo or zmax, I can set the power to 3 watts and hold the button down as long as I want without burning out the coil (regular 2 ohm coils); the coils glow red, so that's enough to dryburn.
I don't torch my coils; picked up a trick at the b&m i wrap my coils; and I use pieces cut off a wire coat hanger for that, gives me a gorgeous coil and ruining dual coils a perfect 1 ohm at 10 wraps, after I install the coil I dry burn it and pinch it together with needle nose to take out the malleability. That say it's still springy in case I have to re-wrap or put another wrap in or take one out. But I won't wick till all that's done spends more time with the deck but haven't had a problem yet.
Torching kanthal was useful when we were running 30 and 32 gauge. It helped to stiffen the wire so that wrapping tight coils was easier. You don't need to torch wire, especially with thicker wire.
Well with all your guys imput got my self some drill bits tweezers and a ohm reader on the way. So now I can build the correct way measure my ohms and diameter of coil also how much strain it is putting on battery. I think im ready?
Well with all your guys imput got my self some drill bits tweezers and a ohm reader on the way. So now I can build the correct way measure my ohms and diameter of coil also how much strain it is putting on battery. I think im ready?
Awesome!!!! After the first 2 or three builds you get right it becomes second nature
yeah you'll be working like a factory Robot in no time 
GL
GLWell with all your guys imput got my self some drill bits tweezers and a ohm reader on the way. So now I can build the correct way measure my ohms and diameter of coil also how much strain it is putting on battery. I think im ready?
Yes mate I understand that but you said you can't pulse and squeeze a coil on a mech as it short's the battery and I said thanks I didn't know that, so I wondered off and asked for a second opinion and they confirmed that what I had been doing all along was the right way
hahahaaaa you confused the hell out of me!So this ^^what you say above that pulse/squeezing a coil on a mech will short the battery is false!
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He said then if your coil is shorting, then you will short the battery on a mech. A regulated mod has short protection (usually).
yep! so you won't be pulsing on your regulated mod either if you have a short...
Read the middle paragraph!(in the second boxed quote) it sound's like he's talking about the short's you get before you get the coil glowing evenly from the center out, and that is what I presumed he was talking about in the first paragraph of the second boxed quote.
Unless you know your rba etc inside out your not going to make a coil and just start pulsing it without checking with a meter which will tell you you have a short or not , it don't make sense
Yes mate I understand that but you said you can't pulse and squeeze a coil on a mech as it short's the battery and I said thanks I didn't know that, so I wondered off and asked for a second opinion and they confirmed that what I had been doing all along was the right way
So this ^^what you say above that pulse/squeezing a coil on a mech will short the battery is false!
Oh; if you squeeze the coil with metal tweezers while you are holding down the fire button, then, you'd be shorting it out right?
But if you release the fire button before squeezing the coil, then it won't short.
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