Help w/ Upgrading

[FC2Speedhacker]

Hello everyone, I was going to make 5 quick posts and then post this in General Discussion to get more views, but since this is somewhat of a newbie question I'll make this my first post. I'm a very long-winded poster, so if it is too long for you just read the bold text and then skip to the second line break for a quick 2 paragraphs.

Before I get to my question I should start with a little background. I started vaping about a year and a half ago, and I've done all of my research watching just a couple YouTube videos and review blogs. Now that I need more help so I'm officially joining the vaping community.

My first setup was a cig-a-like kit from the brand V2. Compared to what is around now this kit was pretty horrible, but I was blown away, the quality was so much higher than Blu and all other cig-a-like brands. I bought their premium $100 kit and it was actually worth every penny in the long run. I lucked out because I smoked a pack and a half of Marlboro Reds a day, and V2's "Premium Red" ejuice is still probably one of the best tobacco juices out there, definitely the best Marlboro Red tasting juice imo. Anyway, I fell in love and haven't had an analog since.

My first upgrade was to an Ego-LCD 1100mAh w/ a Kanger T3D dual coil tank on top. I was amazed with the jump in quality. I still have 4 of those cheap $5 T3Ds lying around for juice swapping and flavor testing. They are a beast! You can drop them 100 times and put the strongest cinnamon juices in there without issue. I would recommend them to anyone that is looking for something cheap to throw around. They're good quality and the same price as disposable tanks! You can even put the newer carto style Kanger dual coils in there. For some reason the mini Protanks stole the show but I still love the cheap ol' T3D.

My next upgrade was the day the Aspire Nautilus Mini came out. I ordered one along with an MVP2 to power it. I once again was blown away in the quality jump from my previous setup, so much that it is still the current setup that I'm using. All I currently have for a battery is my MVP2 and I usually have my Nautilus Mini on it, but I still love Kanger so occasionally I'll have a Mini Protank 3 or one of my T3Ds on there when I want to juice swap/flavor test.

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I've been using my current setup for quite a while now, ever since the Nautilus Mini first came out, so it is time for another upgrade. I was recently at my local vape store and my vapedude let me have a few tokes on an Aspire Atlantis, Kanger Subtank, and his personal mechanical mod (I don't remember the model). The Atlantis was only powered w/ the Aspire CF SubΩ Battery and the Subtank w/ the Kanger K-Simar 20. The two tanks still left me with something to be desired, but the mech was amazing. I liked the Atlantis better than the Subtank, and maybe if it was powered by something better it would work for me, but I really think it is time for me to start building.

I forgot to mention I'm poor. I've never built a coil before and I'm broke, so before I start putting big money into a setup and while I'm just testing the waters, I think a clone is my only option (unless there is an authentic out there I don't know about that is cheap but great quality). I know it's a touchy subject, but it is either a clone or nothing, so there isn't much of a choice.

I'm looking for something with max flavor and lots of airflow more than I'm interested in a pretty setup with big clouds and a strong throat hit. Correct me if I'm wrong, but is that hard to find? In order to get good flavor you have to restrict the airflow, right? I'm a lung hitter and any mech mod will give me more than enough throat hit, so I'm basically just looking for good air draw w/ the best flavor possible on a low budget. I have around $100 for everything (cotton, wire, ohm meter, batteries, charger, tools etc.) not to mention the actual mod and RDA.

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If it is even possible to get everything you need to start building for around $100, what should I get? Once I figure out the mod+rda I think the rest will come easy, but there is just sooo much to choose from! I don't like to buy anything unless I know I'm getting the best possible product for the price. I've tried to narrow down the mod to either the brass Nemesis clone or a brass Sentinel M16 telescoping clone (all from Fasttech). There are so many RDAs I don't know where to start. I'm also a first-time builder, so is the telescopic feature of the Sentinel easier to use than the Nemesis and is a Magma or other RDA easier to build on over a Kayfun or other RTA? Am I correct in saying that a brass device with silver contacts is the best way to go over aluminum/ss/copper?

Wow I have so many questions I don't know where to begin. There's also the Omega, Tobh Atty, Doge X/Mutation X, Patriot, IGO-(insert any letter here), and the list goes on and on. What has the best flavor w/ big airflow and has a deck easy enough for a beginner? And am I way off and out-dated thinking of getting the Nemesis or Sentinel M16? And what about one of those new weird mechanical box mods that take 2 parallel 18650s like the Beast Box/IVOGO Dimitri/Sun Bird/Tesla Invader/etc.? AAARGH so many clones to choose from I'm overwhelmed. Like I said I'm poor so I don't want to make a bad decision and order the wrong setup. Please Help!

 

[twgbonehead]

Copper and Aluminum are both better conductors than brass. As far as the materials in your mech mod, though, it really doesn't matter; all of these are conductive enough to handle heavy loads (due to the volume of metal involved).

I have this one, and like it a lot:
https://www.fasttech.com/p/1427800
It's very light (I sometimes find myself checking to make sure it has a battery in it!) The only drawback is that the head/510 connector is aluminum, so you need to be a bit careful not to strip it (you can get replacement top caps for it, though).

Nothing wrong with the nemesis, either; just get the magnets to go with it.

You might also want to check out this one:

$12.16 Brass + Stainless Steel 18650 Mechanical Mod - brass tube at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

As for RDA's; well, there are sooo many choices. Magma, Plume Veil, Marquis are the ones I'd suggest...

As to whether the dual-batt box mods are the way to go, My opinion would be no. Wait until you can scrape together enough to get a high-wattage regulated box mod instead.

 

[Susan~S]

Hello and welcome to the forum. Glad to have you here!

Just something for you to think about. With a mechanical mod the only way to "fine tune" your vape is to build a new coil. With a high vv/vw regulated mod (and its buck/boost circuitry) you can "fine tune" with a push of a button. On a mechanical mod your voltage drops as you vape, with a regulated mod this does not happen. Your first hit is just as good as your last hit. Here's a good read: My thoughts about sub-ohm and latest VV/VW devices...

============

That said, if you are new to mech mods and/or rebuildables I highly recommend you spend some time with Baditude (one of our resident battery experts) and visit his blogs. You are now 100% in control of your own safety (and others around you). Make sure you purchase an ohm reader and a voltmeter or DMM so you can measure your builds, check for shorts and measure the remaining charge on your batteries.

Baditudes Blogs. The blogs regarding mods and rebuildables are listed below:

BATTERIES

9. Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected ICR?
* Another essential read to understand which batteries are safe to use in mechanical and regulated mods. Includes a frequently updated list of recommended safe-chemistry, high-drain batteries with their specifications.

17. Purple Efest Batteries not as Advertised
* A cautionary blog that reveals that the purple Efest batteries may not have the specifications advertised. Also includes a commentary on "continuous discharge ratings" vs "pulse discharge ratings" of battery specs.

OHM'S LAW

14. Ohm's Law for Dummies (Vapers)
* My attempt at explaining Ohm's Law in layman terms and how it relates to vaping.

16. Explain it to the Dumb Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations
* As simple as it is to use, some people have a tough time grasping the concept. Warning: Includes graphic photos of mod explosions.

MECHANICAL MODS & REBUILDABLES

7. Information Resources for Your First RBA
* An essential read and reference guide for someone new to rebuilding coils. Includes a multitude of useful links on battery safety, mod safety, coil meters, coil building, and the differences in the three types of RBA's.

15. Inexpensive Mechanical Mod/RDA Setup
* A response to the frequently asked question on how to get into rebuildable atomizers with a mechanical mod inexpensively. Includes a list of commonly used tools and supplies for rebuilding and where to find them.

BATTERIES - WHERE TO BUY

Only buy batteries from a reputable supplier (not ebay or Amazon) as there are many counterfeit batteries being sold. Here are several reputable battery suppliers in the US.

* RTD Vapor
* Illumination Supply
* Lighthound
* Orbtronics

 

[LaPascualita]

Oh boy. Getting into mods and RDA's can be costly. We are talking the latest and greatest in batteries, chargers, mods, toppers, tools, kanthal, and filler. Costly trial and error. You may find the perfect topper, everything you ever dreamed of in a vape, but it is a PITA to build on. You may find a topper that is great to build on, but leaks like a sieve, wrong airflow, or looks ugly on your mod. The shopping continues. You have to carry an extra battery and extra built topper for in case of emergency. With a replaceable coil system, you just plug and play if anything happens like burned/ gunked wick. With an RDA, can you stop what you are doing to drag out all of your equipment to rebuild a coil (or coils)? Now, if you can learn to rebuild your heads (Evod/ Protank heads are easy) you will be happy. You can find a tutorial on You Tube. Getting into VV/VW mods means the possibility of failed electronics, trying to get a refund, and wishing you stuck with what you had.

 

[FC2Speedhacker]

Thanks for all of your replies. I've done a lot of research already and know Ohm's law, battery importance and safety, etc.

LaPascualita, I've thought long and hard about all of your concerns for a while now and decided I'm not getting rid of my current setup, that will be for on the go. I'm looking to get into mech mods and RDAs for chain vaping at home, so I don't need to worry about the portability and time concerns of building. I do agree with your concerns around price and which mod/rda to get, which is why I'm here. I've tried a lot of regulated mods and I've gone about as far as I can go with them (in my price range anyway), so rebuilding my clearomizer coils isn't really something I'm interested in. And I agree that getting into VV/VW mods like the DNAs etc. get very expensive and risky, which is why I'm thinking the mechanical route.

The cloned route seems to be plausible, as I can get 3-5 RDAs for around $30, a mod for $15-30, which leaves me with $40-55 left for everything else. I have most tools I need handy, but I definitely need a good ohm/voltage meter and a good battery and charger. If $50 isn't enough for that I can always just choose 1 RDA and increase my budget, but only if needed.

I'm leaning towards the Sentinel clone and away from the Nemesis and unregulated box mods, but my mind changes after every review! I'm also leaning towards the Magma because of the airflow/flavor over other RDAs and RTAs. Any suggestions?

 

[inspects]

Someone posted a link to Atlantis tanks and coils on sale yesterday (somewhere on this forum).

Atlantis tanks are less than $20.00 each, the OCC coils were 12 something for a pack of five.

 

[RamShot Rowdy]

If this is your first attempt at rebuilding, why jump to a mech mod? If you take a dirt cheap mech mod, throw in some cheap batteries, then top it with an RDA you have no experience building, you could get in a bad situation fast. Seems like an unnecessary risk to me.

Even if you build your RDA down to 0.3 ohms, you're only going to get about 50 watts out of it on a fully charged battery. So why not get something like the iStick 50 watt...it can fire down to 0.2 ohms, and has two built in 18650 batteries. Better still it's only expected to cost around $50. So you have mod, batteries, charger, and ohm meter for about $50, not to mention the safety features to protect you if something goes wrong.

You can probably pick up some Kanthal, cotton, and tweezers for $20 if you shop around, that leaves you with $30 for an RDA.

Just my two cents...be safe.

 

[sparkky1]

You do realize your going to get about half the vape time from using a un regulated to using a regulated also much easier to fine tune your vape / coil as well as far less maintenance .....

 

[retic1959]

I feel sorry for anyone asking about mechs in the new members forum , they get bombarded with a lot of naysayers . The Magma is an excellent flavor chasing RDA to start out with along with the Veritas , the Nova & the Marquis to name some others . As far as mechs go copper is going to give you the best performance with the lowest voltage drop but it requires a lot of maintenance to keep it looking good if you don't like patina . There's a couple of mechs that combine copper with stainless steel to give you the best performance with less maintenance like the Stingray X . There's also an excellent RTA available in the Aqua V2 that gives you the option of running as a dripper , excellent flavor in both modes . As far as chargers go it's hard to beat the Nitecore Intellicharger for cost and performance .
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1980900
https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10009322/1795000-stingray-x-style-stainless-steel-copper
https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10009129/1807100-changeling-style-18650-mechanical-mod
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1421/10001638/1119500

 

[LaPascualita]

I'm all for suggesting mechs and rebuildables! Until the word budget came up. These online vendors need to show pictures of their RDAs with human fingers on or around them to show size. Get someone like me, who has the dexterity of a donkey. Yeppers, RDA shopping is full of trial and error. There are some mechanical mods I have to play Twister with to fire. Some mods' locking rings are not reverse threaded, which means unscrewing the whole darned firing switch when all I wanted was to lock the button. Right now, I have $50 in toppers I put in my Vapocalypse bag.

I must admit. So far, my go-to's are the VTR, the Origin dripper, and Veritas dripper.

-I bought the FT Stingray brass mod last year. The button was so sticky and crunchy, it was unusable. I took the button to see what the problem was, and one of the magnets broke. Been scared of magnetic switches since.

 

[Bryan Smith]

eBay, and really any mod that is in your budget. I really wanted to go hard when I first started so I got a Manhattan clone and a plume veil clone for my first setup and now I pretty much rock the same setup just authentic (just got the plume veil 2.0 today and I'm totally stoaked about it!!) if that is kinda your thing they have some great fuhattan clones with the rda deals on eBay. Oh and don't sweat the coil building, you tube has you covered on that. I started with riptrippers and now I'm on to twisted messes doing crazy twisted nichrome coils. Oh and I forgot to mention I got my first mod and rda on Black Friday so 3 months in and I'm already doing the big league stuff, twisted wires and pushing .1-.05 ohms straight up chucking the clouds!!

 

[FC2Speedhacker]

Just to let everyone know, I've spent countless hours researching mech mods, batteries, etc. I've watched a lot of reviews/blogs from Pegasus Vapor Academy, which is invaluable when it comes to vaping and safety. If you haven't checked out his "Straight to the Volt" and "The Amp Hour" series on YouTube you should really check it out (I've watched almost ALL of his videos and read about everything he's written). He shows which battery companies are lying (which is all of them) and maps specific batteries showing their real-world output. I've researched all of the PVA stuff as well as a lot of other resources, so I'm probably more informed than most people that are already building, I just don't have the hands-on experience yet.

But I have to say I was really considering squashing the mech route after reading the 2 posts by djdavis75 and sparkky1. Thanks davis for not just bashing my choice, but giving an alternative. Your recommendation to get that iStick for $50 really got to me, as I don't have to worry about batteries, chargers, etc. like I would with a mech mod, and $50 is pretty decent to get down to 0.2ohms.

However, for some reason I just NEED a mechanical mod. I might get that iStick or maybe the MVP3 in the future to replace my MVP2 for on the go vaping, but I'm dead set on getting a mech for chain vaping when and where possible. I love getting 50W for $50 down to 0.2Ohms, but I can get one of the newest/safest/feature rich chargers from Amazon (amazon.com/Nitecore-D2-Digicharger-Rechargeable-Certification/dp/B00KW2ZDHQ) and 2 LG HE4 batteries from Vape Titans for under $40. That's a great charger (thanks retic for guiding me to Nitecore) and the HE4 is an upgrade from the HE2 and is arguably the best/safest battery for mech mods at the moment.

That only leaves me with $10 left over for a mech mod if comparing to the price of the iStick, but I'd rather increase my budget 10-20 bucks in order to get a good mech clone, one of the best chargers available, and 2x 2500mAh high amp batteries rather than get another regulated mod that dies when the battery dies. Yeah, mechs are more maintenance, but they are a better investment IMO.

Thank you all for your suggestions so far, I'm still not sure which mod or rda I'm going to get, any other suggestions for a good mod and flavorful/high airflow RDA please let me know. I'm loving the 1:1 Stingray and Magma though!

 

[Wissel Joe]

heres a cheap one at vapor beast.

http://www.vaporbeast.com/catalog/product/view/id/1586

 

[retic1959]

Just to let everyone know, I've spent countless hours researching mech mods, batteries, etc. I've watched a lot of reviews/blogs from Pegasus Vapor Academy, which is invaluable when it comes to vaping and safety. If you haven't checked out his "Straight to the Volt" and "The Amp Hour" series on YouTube you should really check it out (I've watched almost ALL of his videos and read about everything he's written). He shows which battery companies are lying (which is all of them) and maps specific batteries showing their real-world output. I've researched all of the PVA stuff as well as a lot of other resources, so I'm probably more informed than most people that are already building, I just don't have the hands-on experience yet. But I have to say I was really considering squashing the mech route after reading the 2 posts by djdavis75 and sparkky1. Thanks davis for not just bashing my choice, but giving an alternative. Your recommendation to get that iStick for $50 really got to me, as I don't have to worry about batteries, chargers, etc. like I would with a mech mod, and $50 is pretty decent to get down to 0.2ohms. However, for some reason I just NEED a mechanical mod. I might get that iStick or maybe the MVP3 in the future to replace my MVP2 for on the go vaping, but I'm dead set on getting a mech for chain vaping when and where possible. I love getting 50W for $50 down to 0.2Ohms, but I can get one of the newest/safest/feature rich chargers from Amazon (amazon.com/Nitecore-D2-Digicharger-Rechargeable-Certification/dp/B00KW2ZDHQ) and 2 LG HE4 batteries from Vape Titans for under $40. That's a great charger (thanks retic for guiding me to Nitecore) and the HE4 is an upgrade from the HE2 and is arguably the best/safest battery for mech mods at the moment. That only leaves me with $10 left over for a mech mod if comparing to the price of the iStick, but I'd rather increase my budget 10-20 bucks in order to get a good mech clone, one of the best chargers available, and 2x 2500mAh high amp batteries rather than get another regulated mod that dies when the battery dies. Yeah, mechs are more maintenance, but they are a better investment IMO. Thank you all for your suggestions so far, I'm still not sure which mod or rda I'm going to get, any other suggestions for a good mod and flavorful/high airflow RDA please let me know. I'm loving the 1:1 Stingray and Magma though!

My next suggestion is that you add 1 or2 more batteries to your order , 2 isn't enough , crap happens and you'll find yourself without a backup . Also be prepared to do some work setting up your mech , even my authentic copper Stingray needed work on the switch .

 

[cmillion]

I just built my first coils today. Easy, peasy. Rip Trippers has some great intro videos that I watched. I have a Tobeco Magma clone. Super simple to build on. Great flavor and pretty decent vapor production. Built a single micro coil around 1.8ohms. Took all of 5 minutes and blows my Nautilus mini away. Running it on my new Smok xpro M65.

 

[FC2Speedhacker]

On Saturday I was at my local vape shop buying some new BVC coils for my Nautilus Mini, and my vape guy was complaining that he had to work that day. I found out it was because there was a vapefest going on! It started at noon and it was already 6 o'clock, so I rushed down there and caught the last hour and a half of it. I got a TON of free juice, and there was an HCigar Sentinel M16 clone for $15, so I snagged it up. It was cheaper than what Fasttech was selling it for, and the HCigar is supposedly better than Fasttech's clone. It seems pretty good, the only thing I don't like is the rattle between the bottom and top pieces when it is telescoped out. I don't have a battery for it yet, so maybe once a battery is inside it won't rattle as much.

There were a ton of vendors there, but they were all asking too much for RDAs, so all I ended up getting was the Sentinel and a bunch of different juices. I still need everything else, but at least now I can narrow down which RDA to get because I now actually have a mod. For some reason, every vendor told me to get the Dark Horse, but I remember Grimgreen's review said that it leaked a lot, and seeing it in person I could tell why (the well was so shallow that anything that doesn't absorb into the cotton is definitely dripping out. One thing that I noticed was that RDAs are a lot smaller in person compared to what they look like in videos. Some have such tiny post holes I can't imagine making any kind of thick builds or anything other than a single strand of coil at 26 gauge or higher. I don't really want to have to drill anything out, so I'm looking for something with bigger post holes and good flavor/airflow. Any suggestions on what to put on top of a Sentinel M16?

 

[FC2Speedhacker]

Well, just to update everyone, I've spent way more than $100. I currently still have the Sentinel M16 by HCigar and I have a Plume Veil v1.5 on top of it. The Plume Veil is honestly a pain. I have to drip way too often because if you put more than a few drops it starts leaking out of the negative post holes. Not to mention that the positive post spins like crazy on the 1.5 version. The 2 LG HE4 batteries I have don't last long at all, in a single day I go through both of them if I want to get good vapor. After half the day the battery voltage is too low to get the wattage I need so I have to switch it out, that was one thing I wasn't expecting.

I'm getting better and better every day at building coils. My first few attempts were awful, the dual coils lit up and cooled down seconds apart, they were all bent out of shape and one coil would always dry burn while the other was still drenched. Learning to put the exact amount of cotton is definitely crucial for me. I'm sick of dual coils not heating/cooling at the same time so I've been going the single coil route. Right now I have a single nano coil wicked dragon-style with 28g kanthal @ 0.5 Ohms and it has great flavor/vapor. I'm out of wire, but some 24g is on the way. The locking ring on my switch is completely stuck, it is impossible to lock it. I took the button/spring/contact out and tried using pliers to twist off the locking ring from the switch, but it won't budge, and now I stripped the threads pretty bad. I can still use it because it's stuck in the unlocked position, but I hate having to take out the battery every time I put down the mod.

Right now I have the 1:1 Stingray X clone from Fasttech on the way, along with the Vertex V2 and Marquis RDAs. Considering the drawbacks of the Plume Veil and my Sentinel all stripped out I'm still able to get a pretty decent vape experience. I can't wait until my vapemail from China gets here so I can throw my Sentinel and Plume in the trash.

Anyone have any advice on getting dual coils to fire/cool down at the same time? Other than that, my coils are now coming out pretty well. If anyone has a tip on getting the locking ring loose again please tell.

 

[Jay Jaramillo]

Ok im going to adress this post in pieces. First clones are nothing to be afraid of. I vape clones and I put out more vapor than most people with authentics. Second of all coils are easy. Buy a little canthal (24 gauge works good) practice on a screwdriver till your confident maybe even buy a jig. But that's up to you. Third if you want good flavor you're gonna want to focus an your rda. The Vulcans good for flavor as is the freakshow and the samurai. All give great flavor and still plume. Fourth SHOP AROUND its easy to find cheap mods and rda's. Hell I got my onyx mod with an authentic freakshow rda for $50 on ebay. Just do research on anything your looking at buying and keep at it. After all vaping isn't for quitters.

 

[retic1959]

Well, just to update everyone, I've spent way more than $100. I currently still have the Sentinel M16 by HCigar and I have a Plume Veil v1.5 on top of it. The Plume Veil is honestly a pain. I have to drip way too often because if you put more than a few drops it starts leaking out of the negative post holes. Not to mention that the positive post spins like crazy on the 1.5 version. The 2 LG HE4 batteries I have don't last long at all, in a single day I go through both of them if I want to get good vapor. After half the day the battery voltage is too low to get the wattage I need so I have to switch it out, that was one thing I wasn't expecting. I'm getting better and better every day at building coils. My first few attempts were awful, the dual coils lit up and cooled down seconds apart, they were all bent out of shape and one coil would always dry burn while the other was still drenched. Learning to put the exact amount of cotton is definitely crucial for me. I'm sick of dual coils not heating/cooling at the same time so I've been going the single coil route. Right now I have a single nano coil wicked dragon-style with 28g kanthal @ 0.5 Ohms and it has great flavor/vapor. I'm out of wire, but some 24g is on the way. The locking ring on my switch is completely stuck, it is impossible to lock it. I took the button/spring/contact out and tried using pliers to twist off the locking ring from the switch, but it won't budge, and now I stripped the threads pretty bad. I can still use it because it's stuck in the unlocked position, but I hate having to take out the battery every time I put down the mod. Right now I have the 1:1 Stingray X clone from Fasttech on the way, along with the Vertex V2 and Marquis RDAs. Considering the drawbacks of the Plume Veil and my Sentinel all stripped out I'm still able to get a pretty decent vape experience. I can't wait until my vapemail from China gets here so I can throw my Sentinel and Plume in the trash. Anyone have any advice on getting dual coils to fire/cool down at the same time? Other than that, my coils are now coming out pretty well. If anyone has a tip on getting the locking ring loose again please tell.

Basically you just need two identical coils , same internal diameter , same number of wraps , same lead length , other than that you might have to nudge your coils a bit to make sure you're getting good contact with the posts on both coils , if one's lagging you probably have a contact issue .

 

[ElevenEleven]

Don't buy batteries from Amazon or Ebay.