Help with Burning Out Coils in a Day

[nottooslow]

I am also going through a coil about every 12 hours. I think it might be the dekang juice as that is the only thing that is the same in my setup. I burn through a coil a day and I have used vivi novas, aspire bdc's, generic gas station clearomizers, and now im burning through kanger pro tank coils just as fast.

about halfway through this ordeal I quit using all of my batteries (all ego types) and ordered new ones as well as a new charger. I am still having the same problem. I only today found out it could be a bad batch of juice. I have been using this juice since I started. dekang usa mix.

 

[ajlane1979]

Awesome i am going to try soaking in warm water and drying over night. I was reading up on the grain alcohol cleaning so good to know it's not needed. I really hope that works! the vape store staff looked at me like i had two heads when i asked about the cleaning of them. They probably don't encourage that b/c it takes away from their business or they are just still learning. Thanks so much to everyone for all the suggestions and help. I refuse to give up!

 

[ajlane1979]

Glad to see i am not the only one!!!!!!! I might try a different juice just to see but it doens't seem like that is my issue!

 

[NeoTrip]

I had this exact problem. Being that I am new to vaping I started with a little ego clone. I am not sure if it was a voltage issue or just junk equipment. Now I am using an Itaste VTR with a small Evod tank and all is good. My next venture will be going to dripping. I prefer the taste and I have heard it's better.

While some may not agree, when cleaning my kanger coils, I do use clear rum or vodka and soak mine overnight. If I am in a rush I will use hot water and force dry them with my air compressor.

 

[tj99959]

Awesome i am going to try soaking in warm water and drying over night. I was reading up on the grain alcohol cleaning so good to know it's not needed. I really hope that works! the vape store staff looked at me like i had two heads when i asked about the cleaning of them. They probably don't encourage that b/c it takes away from their business or they are just still learning. Thanks so much to everyone for all the suggestions and help. I refuse to give up!

Don't let them dry overnight! Juice is water soluble right? Well guess what!!!!!! Water is juice soluble. So pat them dry with some TP ... add juice and vape.

 

[LotsaBS]

It seems extremely unlikely that you are actually burning out the coils themselves. I also doubt that your coils are becoming clogged by your juice that quickly. It may simply be that you are vaping frequently enough that you are running your battery down to the point it will not provide enough energy to fire the coil and your battery simply needs a recharge. There is also the possibility that your topper is coming slightly unscrewed over time and not making good contact with the battery. Be careful and do not over-tighten your topper. Doing so can compress the grommet on the bottom of the coil and keep it from making good contact with the battery.

 

[ajlane1979]

Thanks! I am using a brand new battery and it's not indicating low power but i have been wondering along the same lines. I am getting plenty of air when i am having issues so clog wouldn't make sense. I went and bought a brand new battery last friday to see if that was the problem. I had gotten a little liquid in the other one and was wondering if that was affecting it or not. But nothing has changed. Still not workinglonger than around 24 hours per coil. I put one in this am and had to change it again now! and it works fine with a new coil. I have been charging it through out the day too so it won't run low on me tonight. But the bottom piece of the kangertech aero tank sometimes will pop off. There is no o ring or spring to hold it in place. the first tank i had i dropped and it popped off and i bought a new one thinking i lost a piece. Then last night i was simply tightening it and it popped right off! so i am wondering if the connection is getting screwed up but after a $60 battery and $27 tank this week my budget is running low for a complete new system. I really would like to solve this issue and understand what the deal is! I have 4 coils i am going to try cleaning tonight and at least that will help with the expense of that. I have tried 1.5 dual coils, 2.0 dual coils (burned the fluid immediatley) and now have 2.5 single coils.all kanger tech brand.

 

[edyle]

Thanks! I am using a brand new battery and it's not indicating low power but i have been wondering along the same lines. I am getting plenty of air when i am having issues so clog wouldn't make sense. I went and bought a brand new battery last friday to see if that was the problem. I had gotten a little liquid in the other one and was wondering if that was affecting it or not. But nothing has changed. Still not workinglonger than around 24 hours per coil. I put one in this am and had to change it again now! and it works fine with a new coil. I have been charging it through out the day too so it won't run low on me tonight. But the bottom piece of the kangertech aero tank sometimes will pop off. There is no o ring or spring to hold it in place. the first tank i had i dropped and it popped off and i bought a new one thinking i lost a piece. Then last night i was simply tightening it and it popped right off! so i am wondering if the connection is getting screwed up but after a $60 battery and $27 tank this week my budget is running low for a complete new system. I really would like to solve this issue and understand what the deal is! I have 4 coils i am going to try cleaning tonight and at least that will help with the expense of that. I have tried 1.5 dual coils, 2.0 dual coils (burned the fluid immediatley) and now have 2.5 single coils.all kanger tech brand.

Your itazte can MEASURE the ohms of the coils for you.
If you try to measure it and it says "NON" or 9.9, then the coil is actually burnt out.

Please measure the coils.

 

[LotsaBS]

I'm not sure what you mean by the bottom piece of you Kanger Aerotank popping off. There should be no loose parts anywhere. You should have a base (airflow adjustable on the aerotank) that the coil screws into. Then that assembly will screw to your tank and to your battery. Nothing should be popping off.

 

[glycerol]

Kanthal wire isn't a brand like Kleenex

About us

 

[ajlane1979]

Its the very bottom piece of the adjustable air flow piece. Just a small silver piece that serves as the very bottom. I wouldn't think it would pop off either. But i literally twisted it to tighten it last night and it popped off in the same spot as the other one did. Its not loose now. But i just bought the thing on Tuesday! and there was no spring or anything inside. My coworker and i looked at the aero tank online too and couldn't see anything.

 

[ajlane1979]

Do you mean when you hold both buttons down and it reads for example A2.6? That's good to know! I haven't been using that feature much but will start monitoring it! Thanks!

 

[LotsaBS]

If you are talking about the tiny pin in the bottom-center of the Aerotank base that may be your problem. It is a press fit with a rubber insulator between it and the base itself. Although it can be removed, you normally shouldn't need to do so. It can be popped out with enough pressure, but should not be popping out on it's own. If so, you have either lost the rubber insulator, the insulator is damaged or it is installed incorrectly. If any of the above is the case, your Aerotank will not be making the proper electrical contact with your battery.

 

[Ed Kindred]

Maybe I'm just Blessed. I use drilled out KP2's with Kanger adj air flow bases, also drilled out, & 1300 mah ego-t's. I've been doing that for 2 mos and have never burned or plugged a coil. I have 6 of them & the little 650 mah ego with the Aspire tank I started with & haven't had any issues with it either. I use 6 different juices & chain vape. I don't clean them out either. I do keep the batteries charged but the ego-t's will go over 24 hrs without charging even if I only use 1. I put 2 of them on the charger today but it's the first time in 4 days I've put any on at all.I guess it has to be the extra air flow

 

[ajlane1979]

Ed you must be super lucky and blessed and i must be cursed with the dual coil systems! I tried my aunt's ego c from Totally wicked over the weekend and I think at this point I will just go back to that. At least i can get the coils to last a little longer than a week. maybe once things are around here in the area more people will be better equipped to help me! At least I know the quality of the product and that the people are really experienced! Thanks so much for all your help!

 

[tazzle]

Some things to consider:

With bottom coils, if you are taking many shorter, quicker drags, you may get a "dry burn," meaning that you've temporarily depleted the wick of juice, and are getting a bad taste from the burning wick. Longer, smoother or slower drags are usually better with, for example, the ProTanks.

When you are unscrewing your atomizer to refill it, your coil head can become loosened a bit, which will cause problems because it's not connecting properly. Just give it a quick check when refilling your tank, to make sure it hasn't unscrewed a bit.

Sometimes because of particular coil heads, or particular juices, there might be a problem with the wick getting saturated enough, which, again, gives a burning dry-hit taste. With ProTanks, you might remove the little silicon "cap" that sits over the wick part to make it easier for the juice to get to the wick (save it in case you start getting flooding/gurgling and you want to put it back on).

For ProTanks and other atomizers that can use Kanger heads, I've personally had almost uniformly bad experiences with "fake" coil heads, and about 90% good experience with Authentic Kanger coil heads. Try to make sure you are buying the originals. (One "tell" about the fake ones is that they usually don't have the ohms printed on the stem like the real Kanger coil heads do).

Sometimes the pin to pole connection isn't good (the stem of the coil is barely reaching the center pole connection of the battery), so you need to take a tiny knife or flathead screwdriver and very gently jiggle the "pole" or pin connection up on the VV, for example, or take a pair of tweezers and barely, barely pull the pin down on the atomizer. Easy does it! A tiny, tiny bit more connection might do the trick, but you don't want to ruin your battery.

These are just a few ideas. In addition to making sure your battery has a good charge, you should also play around a bit with the voltage to try to get the best vape. Too high or too low can cause problems that might seem they are being caused by the coils. 3.8 is a good beginning point, and then you can dial up or down a bit and see if you get a better vape.

 

[ajlane1979]

Thanks for all the helpful information! I have tried everything you are suggesting other than removing the cap on the coil or the pin to pole connection issue. I have tried 2 izate batteries (both purchased recently) and three tanks and the only common denomonator is the coils. They are all the same brand. Might be on to something with that connection though. Yesterday when i couldn't get it to give me a hit, i would push down to make sure it was in good and sometimes it would give a little and then work ok. Works so awesome when it does work but i am sick of changing the coil daily or even more than once sometimes. I'll keep trying until i get my new system b/c it's just killing me to not know what the issue is. I want to solve the problem or at least determine what it is!

 

[DaveP]

Kanger and Aspire both have heads out there with bad silver solder joints one each side of the resistive coil that degrade while you vape until the wire disconnects from the joint. The non-resistive legs are attached at that point.

The tell tale is rising resistance as you vape. If your mod has a resistance check mode, you can monitor it. Otherwise, take it off and put it on an ohm meter. Mine went from 2 ohms to 3 ohms and as high as 4 ohms before dropping a leg and going open. About 9 out of ten failed in 4 to 8 hours of vaping.

 

[tazzle]

That's interesting DaveP! Do you think it's a manufacturing problem or a terrible sales gimmick (buy more because they go bad)? Because if it's the latter, it doesn't seem too smart. It doesn't take much to decide to move on from an atomizer with that kind of persistent frustrating problem. HELLO REBUILDABLES.

I love my Kayfun Lite (and one good clone), but I'm a flavor chaser, and like to switch between tanks to change tastes. But hey, I'm saving to buy more authentic rebuildables and will just drop atomizers that require buying bad coil heads and hoping for the best.

 

[DaveP]

That's interesting DaveP! Do you think it's a manufacturing problem or a terrible sales gimmick (buy more because they go bad)? Because if it's the latter, it doesn't seem too smart. It doesn't take much to decide to move on from an atomizer with that kind of persistent frustrating problem. HELLO REBUILDABLES.

I love my Kayfun Lite (and one good clone), but I'm a flavor chaser, and like to switch between tanks to change tastes. But hey, I'm saving to buy more authentic rebuildables and will just drop atomizers that require buying bad coil heads and hoping for the best.

I'm vaping a Kayfun 3.1 and finding it just right. I have a stack of tanks from Aspire and Kanger and will use them in rotation, but the Kayfun satisfies my need for vapor and flavor just fine.

What I saw with the both the Aspire and the Kanger coils was cold solder joints. Just for information for the thread, a cold solder joint is caused by a lack of sufficient heat during the soldering process or movement while the joint is cooling down. It causes the solder joint to be dull grey and granulated instead of shiny and it's easy to spot.

The ones I examined that went to open status still had the hole where the wire came out of the joint, proving that the soldering process was flawed. I'd pop the center pin out and then the grommet, only to find that one of the legs was loose and laying inside the body of the atomizer. That shouldn't happen. I haven't pulled apart a perfectly good unused head to see if the joint is shiny right out of the box. I guess I should do that, but I'd have to recoil to use that one again.

My guess is that since the solder joint is right next to the coil on both sides, the heat degraded the solder joint slowly while I was vaping. I emailed Kangertech service, detailed the problem, and asked for an explanation and a remedy for the bad coils. I have yet to receive anything other than an automated response saying that my message was forwarded to a member of the engineering staff for study. Maybe in a few months that person will get around to my email and respond.

As for the sales angle to make people buy more heads, in my case it made me buy a few 5 packs from other vendors to see if I got duds from one. I didn't. They were 9 out of 10 failing in an afternoon. If it was a sales tactic, it backfired. It made me buy a Kayfun.