Help with coil building...(first build.)

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ObiWanJacobey

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Mar 26, 2015
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I didnt really know where to put this, but I'm pretty sure this thread is ok? Getting on to why I'm here. Im very new to rda's yaddi yaddi yadda. Ive done vasts amounts of research talked to my local vape shops, etc. But I'm still just a little..tensed up, you could say. I've been using this calculator Steam Engine | free vaping calculators and here is a screenshot of the results and what it tells me to do after I plug in all the information.. Gyazo - 45eaaf8d59f18ac445a6512f6b412cf6.png The one thing that tripped me up on this calc is the section 'Leg length (total per coil) I didnt know what to do here, and most of the stuff once you plug a value in, it auto adjusts x, etc, but the leg lenght didnt auto adjust, I didnt know what to do or what it is, so it stayed at 5mm. Now, I did all that, specifically I did 8 wraps around a 2.0mm screwdriver (my builds a dual), and my coils came out to 0.2 ohms again I was trying for 0.3...got 0.2, keep in mind and yes, yes I know I need one, I dont have an ohm reader..YET, I plan on getting one, but I figured just for right now on my first build using my IPV to read my ohms would be ok. Im using an IPV Mini v2 (can fire from 0.2-3.0 ?) I also have a segelei mech mod, and building on a hobo v2 clone the batterys Im using are the purple IMR efest 2500mah, 35 amp batterys, but the continuous amps is only 20 though, right? Im just skeptical if I can use this low of a build with my setup and battery. Fully charged battery, 4.2v so 4.2x0.2 = 21, so 21 amps? 21x4.2= 88.2 (watts, right?) My device only goes to 70 watts. Ive done so much googling etc, and theres just so much mixed answers, not clear answers, etc. I just feel so much better when I have people specifically replying to my problems and trying to help me out. Am I ok to use this build for now, or should I just try and make some new coils? PS; am using 24gauge kanthal.
 

edyle

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Oct 23, 2013
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I didnt really know where to put this, but I'm pretty sure this thread is ok? Getting on to why I'm here. Im very new to RDA's yaddi yaddi yadda. Ive done vasts amounts of research talked to my local vape shops, etc. But I'm still just a little..tensed up, you could say. I've been using this calculator Steam Engine | free vaping calculators and here is a screenshot of the results and what it tells me to do after I plug in all the information.. Gyazo - 45eaaf8d59f18ac445a6512f6b412cf6.png The one thing that tripped me up on this calc is the section 'Leg length (total per coil) I didnt know what to do here, and most of the stuff once you plug a value in, it auto adjusts x, etc, but the leg lenght didnt auto adjust, I didnt know what to do or what it is, so it stayed at 5mm. Now, I did all that, specifically I did 8 wraps around a 2.0mm screwdriver (my builds a dual), and my coils came out to 0.2 ohms again I was trying for 0.3...got 0.2, keep in mind and yes, yes I know I need one, I dont have an ohm reader..YET, I plan on getting one, but I figured just for right now on my first build using my IPV to read my ohms would be ok. Im using an IPV Mini v2 (can fire from 0.2-3.0 ?) I also have a segelei mech mod, and building on a hobo v2 clone the batterys Im using are the purple IMR efest 2500mah, 35 amp batterys, but the continuous amps is only 20 though, right? Im just skeptical if I can use this low of a build with my setup and battery. Fully charged battery, 4.2v so 4.2x0.2 = 21, so 21 amps? 21x4.2= 88.2 (watts, right?) My device only goes to 70 watts. Ive done so much googling etc, and theres just so much mixed answers, not clear answers, etc. I just feel so much better when I have people specifically replying to my problems and trying to help me out. Am I ok to use this build for now, or should I just try and make some new coils? PS; am using 24gauge kanthal.

24 gauge
dual coil
0.3 ohms
2mm ID

works out to 8 wraps; will need 55 watts

click here to see it:
Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators


the leg length is just the distance between the last wrap and the post where you screw it down; just leave it at the default 5mm unless you can see for yourself on your build that it is much different
 

Rsunderl

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Sep 4, 2014
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I'd also stick to using it on your IPV Mini until you get an ohm meter to check for shorts. Your mech mod has no protection against shorts, but the IPV won't fire if there is one.

Also, what jspike said above will help. Firing it at .2 ohms isn't advisable since it's above the CDR of your battery. It's always a good idea to leave some safety margin (head room) for safety when building coils. 20% - 50% headroom is usually recommended.

And good for you for asking! :toast:

Happy and safe vaping!
 

Ryedan

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Mar 31, 2012
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Ontario, Canada
I didnt really know where to put this, but I'm pretty sure this thread is ok? Getting on to why I'm here. Im very new to RDA's yaddi yaddi yadda. Ive done vasts amounts of research talked to my local vape shops, etc. But I'm still just a little..tensed up, you could say. I've been using this calculator Steam Engine | free vaping calculators and here is a screenshot of the results and what it tells me to do after I plug in all the information.. Gyazo - 45eaaf8d59f18ac445a6512f6b412cf6.png The one thing that tripped me up on this calc is the section 'Leg length (total per coil) I didnt know what to do here, and most of the stuff once you plug a value in, it auto adjusts x, etc, but the leg lenght didnt auto adjust, I didnt know what to do or what it is, so it stayed at 5mm.

So far so good! Leg length refers to the non-curved part of the coil at both ends of the coil that you use to attach to the RDA posts. In small RDAs you always have short coil legs because there is simply not enough space for more. In bigger RDAs legs can get long enough to make some difference to the build. The longer they are the higher the resistance gets with the same number of wraps, so don't worry about this one for now as you will err on the safe side (higher resistance).

Now, I did all that, specifically I did 8 wraps around a 2.0mm screwdriver (my builds a dual), and my coils came out to 0.2 ohms again I was trying for 0.3...got 0.2, keep in mind and yes, yes I know I need one, I dont have an ohm reader..YET, I plan on getting one, but I figured just for right now on my first build using my IPV to read my ohms would be ok. Im using an IPV Mini v2 (can fire from 0.2-3.0 ?)

If you actually got 8 wraps and it was actually a 2mm screw driver and it is actually 24 gauge wire, you would not be low by 0.1 ohm. IMO, if you're sure of all the variables I just mentioned it's probably the IPV's ohm reading that's out. This is why it's important to have that ohm checker :)

I also have a segelei mech mod, and building on a hobo v2 clone the batterys Im using are the purple IMR efest 2500mah, 35 amp batterys, but the continuous amps is only 20 though, right?

Right.

Im just skeptical if I can use this low of a build with my setup and battery. Fully charged battery, 4.2v so 4.2x0.2 = 21, so 21 amps? 21x4.2= 88.2 (watts, right?) My device only goes to 70 watts. Ive done so much googling etc, and theres just so much mixed answers, not clear answers, etc. I just feel so much better when I have people specifically replying to my problems and trying to help me out. Am I ok to use this build for now, or should I just try and make some new coils? PS; am using 24gauge kanthal.

I am assuming you're going to try this on the IPV, correct? If so, I suggest you try it with the battery you have, but first go to the Battery Drain page on the Steam Engine website. Change the 'Power (wattage) setting' to 70 watts and 'Battery voltage' to 4.2V. Below the Battery voltage you'll see that your battery drain current will be 18.52A. Change the battery voltage to 3.3V and the batt drain goes up to 24.31A, higher than your battery's max continuous 20A rating. Lower the watts on the left side to 55 and the batt drain at 3.3V goes down to 19A. Atty resistance has nothing to do with battery drain in a VW mod unlike mechanical mods, it's all about the watts you set and what the battery voltage is. Try it for yourself on Steam Engine, change the resistance and see what happens to batt drain.

So try it on the IPV and see if the mod will fire it and how it vapes if it does fire it. I suggest you don't run the mod at 70 watts until the battery charge is depleted because of the high amp draw at low batt voltage. Get yourself some Sony VTC4 30A batts and then you won't have to worry about pushing the batteries too hard. Illumn has them for $8 each and they're authentic.

Now, let's talk about the build. I've set up the Steam Engine page at your original settings with one thing added. Look at the 'Results' box and you'll see I changed the 'Heat flux' wattage to 50 watts and the heat flux number is 184 mW/mm² (miliwatts per square mm of coil surface area). I like to vape at 350 and a bit above. IMO, 184 is going to be extremely anemic and it will take quite a while for the coil to get hot enough to do anything at all. It's just not enough power per coil surface area to make a good vape.

Increase the wattage to 70 and you get a heat flux of 258 mW/mm². I think that's not going be great and it will still take time to heat the coil, but I think it will at least vape a bit.

You need to either get more power to the coils or reduce the coil surface area and mass. You have 70 watts to work with so more power is not an option. Thinner wire is an option that would work very well though. Change the wire to 26 gauge and the power back to 50 watts and you get 369 mW/mm². This setup would give you almost instant coil heat up and make a lot of vapor.

The other option for the IPV is to build a single coil setup with the 24 gauge Kanthal. That should vape well at 50 watts and you have room to adjust the power up a bit if it's needed. This will not work the same with a mech mod.

Let us know how it goes :2cool:
 
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