Help with drippers?

[nigeltaylor]

So im currently vaping on a Spinner II with an iClear tank.

Its an alright combo but I wanna move into mods. More specifically mechanical mods.
I've been cruising the internet and have found from what I can tell a decent setup.




paired with an Infinite clone of a Magma RDA v2.
Im not looking to spend a ton of money right off and have heard
from most places that you're better off starting
with clones if you're not sure what you're getting into.
Any help or suggestions would be much appreciated.

 

[Kaezziel]

Good on ya for wanting to improve your game and on getting more into the hobby side of vaping! The Magma is an excellent RDA. Simple to build and gives great flavor.
As for the Sentinel... I'm not a big fan of telescopic mods, myself. I have one, and hardly ever use it anymore... they work fine, but I prefer my dedicated 18650 mod. Also, you'll get the best performance from a copper style mod as the voltage drop is reduced due to the inherent properties of copper being a better conductor than steel...

 

[Cacique]

I have settled (for now) myself on a copper SMPL clone paired up with a Sony VTC5 or an R25 and it works great, would definitely recommend it.

 

[Das Auto]

What are your Reasons for going Mech Mod?

Why I ask is you can pick up an eLeaf iStick for around $30, have Variable Voltage/Variable Wattage, which will give you more customability (is that a word?) to your vaping. Plus it has an Ohm reader on it so you when you make your own coils you will know if your resistance is where you want it!

Just an idea...

 

[Niten13]

Please read up and make sure you know Ohms Law and Battery Safety before you start dripping
here is a great vid to get you started
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-illustrated-explained-very-simple-terms.html

I would not recommend making the jump from Ego to Mechanical but I won't steer you away from what you want.
You can get the same experience dripping with a Regulated VW mod or Box mod like Segelei or iPV, even an iStick 50w like Das Auto mentioned.

Please make sure you get good quality batts like Samsung 25R or Lg HE2 from a reputable dealer like http://www.rtdvapor.com/

 

[rhean]

I have a brass m16 from Fasttech, and it's a solid mod. Telescopic mods are practical in that they're really easy to adjust for battery rattle.

You'll need at least two good batteries, and a good charger for those batteries. Some info on battery safety is here Taste Your Juice | BATTERY INFORMATION
This is a chart on the builds various batteries can take: https://docs.google.com/a/lodischoo...01mUkl6RXNnM2o2R1E&f=true&noheader=true&gid=0
Don't go too low to start with, and make sure your build is safely within battery capacity.

You'll need a digital multimeter, which is sold pretty much everywhere, including Walmart. Since the mech has no wiring, it's up to you to figure out when to change the old battery with a fresh one. You don't want to get the battery too low, as that could cause damage. You'll notice the vape getting weak over time, as the battery is used up.

The digital multimeter can also measure the resistance on your rda. I think an ohm meter is more practical for that.

You need some kanthal wire for the coil. Thicker the gauge (26 is thicker than 28, which is thicker than 30) lower the resistance. I'd suggest getting a variety, maybe 26, 28, and 30 for starters.
More coils, lower the resistance: A single coil with .8 resistance=.8 resistance lol. Dual coils, each at .8=.4 on the battery.

You'll also need some organic cotton balls for wicking, various tiny gizmos which you might already own for wrapping the coil, some tweezers.

btw there are probably, hundreds, if not thousands of videos on coil building on youtube

 

[nigeltaylor]

What are your Reasons for going Mech Mod?

Why I ask is you can pick up an eLeaf iStick for around $30, have Variable Voltage/Variable Wattage, which will give you more customability (is that a word?) to your vaping. Plus it has an Ohm reader on it so you when you make your own coils you will know if your resistance is where you want it!

Just an idea...

The reason why I wanted to go Mech Mod is cause I like the look of them. To me they seem a lot cleaner looking more classic styling. but i do like that there is so much more customizability with the Box Mods.

 

[Daniel Smith1234311356]

The reason why I wanted to go Mech Mod is cause I like the look of them. To me they seem a lot cleaner looking more classic styling. but i do like that there is so much more customizability with the Box Mods.

I love my copper vanilla. Get something with copper contacts and a solid contact top cap with an insulator. Don't start with a hybrid top cap. Get good batteries. I prefer the lg he4 and the purple 35 amp efest. Both can fire safely super low. .1 or so. Start at at least .3 and go from there. Be sure to buy at least 2 batteries and a good charger. A single charger will be fine to start because once one is fresh your charging the other. Efest makes a good 1 amp one for around 10 dollars. Good luck. Let us know what you choose.

 

[retic1959]

The reason why I wanted to go Mech Mod is cause I like the look of them. To me they seem a lot cleaner looking more classic styling. but i do like that there is so much more customizability with the Box Mods.

I prefer mechs for their aesthetics as well , they feel better in my hands than regulated devices do , plus their simplicity equals durability , no regulated device can match a mech on that score . Be prepared to do a lot of homework in regards to safety . Also be prepared to do some work on your mech when you get it , a lot of mechs require cleaning and polishing of components to get'm working right and expect to do regular cleaning and maintenance to keep'm that way . I enjoy the time I spend cleaning and polishing mine as well as fine tuning new mechs when I get them . I also agree about copper mechs giving the best performance but they do require more maintenance than mechs made out of other metals . Two that split the difference are the Stingray X and the Changeling , all copper internals for conductivity with stainless steel outers to reduce maintenance , You might want to check those out . The Magma is an outstanding RDA for flavor and it's an easy build , and yup go with the Infinite clone on that , excellent quality on it IMO .

 

[hurricanegirl100]

There's clones and then there's clones. I have two - an Acerig Fuhattan that's a POS and an HCigar copper Nemesis that I got for Christmas from Vapor Royalty. I love the Nemmy - easy to adjust, and with the magnets in the firing button, it fires every time, which is more than I can say for the Fuhattan. The threading on my Nemesis is smooth - the Fuhattan's is, too, but overall, I like clones from HCigar a lot more than the ones from Acerig.

Copper's really good at conducting electricity - the voltage drop (the amount of power I lose just by putting an RDA on my mech) is practically zero on my copper Nemesis. I lose more power(less flavor, less clouds) with the Fuhattan because it doesn't have a copper firing button.

Good advice on the ohm meter and cotton. You can get both for cheap on Amazon - better prices than most vaping shops (even online!) Got a nice Kuro coiler (makes really nice coils quick and easy!) at 88evape. https://88evape.com/shop/accessories/6-1-kuro-concepts-coil-jig/ and for eleven bucks, couldn't beat the price!

As for RDA's, there's so many out there it's crazy; my personal favorite is the Plume Veil. Easier to build on than my Mephisto or my Aris, and I get both great flavor and great clouds with my Plume Veils. With the Mephisto, I get less flavor; with the Aris, good flavor but less clouds.

The RDA that's right for you, Nigel, is your preference. It seems like it's hard to find an RDA that's good at both vapor and flavor. Whaddaya like better?

 

[rhean]

...

The RDA that's right for you, Nigel, is your preference. It seems like it's hard to find an RDA that's good at both vapor and flavor. Whaddaya like better?

ita. There are, like, HUNDREDS of RDAs, so it's hard to pick just one for starters. I agree that most rdas with dual positive posts are super easy to build. I know this is an old, old RDA, but I still love my Helios clone

To the OP: Screw in the RDA onto the top cap before screwing in the top cap to the rest of the mech

What not to do: A teen of my acquaintance arrived the other day with a filthy Vanilla clone. The person who gave it to him had never bothered to clean it so it had gunk everywhere, and the kid had taken out the spring, so the firing button was up and down, no control, nothing That thing was a disaster waiting to go off. Reasonable caution is a good thing.

 

[edyle]

The reason why I wanted to go Mech Mod is cause I like the look of them. To me they seem a lot cleaner looking more classic styling. but i do like that there is so much more customizability with the Box Mods.

There are a much wider variety of mech mods than there are a variety of regulated mods just as there are a much wider variety of car body/shell than there are car engines.

It's not that if you got a mech you'd like the look of it, it's just that there's a lot more of them, you're more likely to find one that you like the looks of.
But when it comes to lithium batteries, I suggest you push the aesthetics down the road, and spend more time of safety and functionality in the initial phase.

 

[edyle]

So im currently vaping on a Spinner II with an iClear tank.
View attachment 415673
Its an alright combo but I wanna move into mods. More specifically mechanical mods.
I've been cruising the internet and have found from what I can tell a decent setup.
View attachment 415669
View attachment 415670
View attachment 415671
View attachment 415672
paired with an Infinite clone of a Magma RDA v2.
Im not looking to spend a ton of money right off and have heard
from most places that you're better off starting
with clones if you're not sure what you're getting into.
Any help or suggestions would be much appreciated.

I have an aluminium m16 sentinel;

It's the only mod have that has a spring loaded centerpin.
It can't accommodate an 18650 and a kick, but it can take an 18350 with a kick.
The kick's got to go in the copper part, not the aluminium because of the internal thread on the aluminium.
The locking ring is not reverse threaded.
The bottem switch can unscrew out totally, and if you're not paying attention and it unscrews out over time it could pop out and the spring will pop out and go off someplace.

The threading is consistent (meaning it's not one of those mods with one threading one place and another threading in another place).
Theading is not m21x1 or compatiple with any of my other mods.

Just about the cheapest mod I have, and glad I have it.

 

[Susan~S]

SOMETHING TO THINK ABOUT

With a mechanical mod the only way to "fine tune" your vape is to build a new coil. With a high vv/vw regulated mod (and its buck/boost circuitry) you can "fine tune" with a push of a button. On a mechanical mod your voltage drops as you vape, with a regulated mod this does not happen. Your first hit is just as good as your last hit.

A high vv/vw mod is a lot more versatile than a mechanical mod (not to mention safer, less upkeep, etc). The beauty of a high vv/vw mod is that you don't have to build low sub-ohm coils to get a great vape. In fact, building low sub-ohm works against you. Higher ohm coils use more wire which means more surface area to vaporize juice. That increases vapor production.

With a mechanical mod you increase the warmth of your coil by building lower ohm coils. However, the electronics in a regulated mod boosts the power coming from the battery so the ohms of the coil no longer control the warmth.

My thoughts about sub-ohm and latest VV/VW devices...

==============

That said, if you choose to go with a mechanical and/or rebuildables I highly recommend you spend some time with Baditude (one of our resident battery experts) and visit his blogs. You are now 100% in control of your own safety (and others around you). Make sure you purchase an ohm reader and a voltmeter or DMM so you can measure your builds, check for shorts and measure the remaining charge on your batteries.

Baditudes Blogs. The blogs regarding mods and rebuildables are listed below:

BATTERIES

Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected ICR?
* Another essential read to understand which batteries are safe to use in mechanical and regulated mods. Includes a frequently updated list of recommended safe-chemistry, high-drain batteries with their specifications.

Purple Efest Batteries not as Advertised
* A cautionary blog that reveals that the purple Efest batteries may not have the specifications advertised. Also includes a commentary on "continuous discharge ratings" vs "pulse discharge ratings" of battery specs.

OHM'S LAW

Ohm's Law for Dummies (Vapers)
* My attempt at explaining Ohm's Law in layman terms and how it relates to vaping.

Explain it to the Dumb Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations
* As simple as it is to use, some people have a tough time grasping the concept. Warning: Includes graphic photos of mod explosions.

MECHANICAL MODS & REBUILDABLES

Information Resources for Your First RBA
* An essential read and reference guide for someone new to rebuilding coils. Includes a multitude of useful links on battery safety, mod safety, coil meters, coil building, and the differences in the three types of RBA's.

Inexpensive Mechanical Mod/RDA Setup
* A response to the frequently asked question on how to get into rebuildable atomizers with a mechanical mod inexpensively. Includes a list of commonly used tools and supplies for rebuilding and where to find them.

BATTERIES - WHERE TO BUY

Only buy batteries from a reputable supplier (not ebay or Amazon) as there are many counterfeit batteries being sold. Here are several reputable battery suppliers in the US.

* RTD Vapor
* Illumination Supply
* Lighthound
* Orbtronics

 

[Zachary Willis]

My first mech setup was a black sir lancelot with a vtc4 and a tobh V2.5 still love that thing to this day!