help with my RBA 2

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flexsr

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So, as I mentioned before for some reason I hated my REO VV until I bought the RBA2. Now I am in complete love with it. It is truly amazing and this attachment is worth its weight in gold.

My questions are:

can someone in laymans terms tell me the difference in the gauge of the wire. Lets say a 28 g kanthal wire vs 32 g Kanthal wire. I am going to buy some wire in bulk soon and I still dont quite know the difference. The 32 seems thicker to me so more resistance and more wraps needed to provide a given effect but I good be completely wrong.

Lastly, Anyone come across a good 18350 set of batteries with more than 700mah rechargeable. It would be a bonus if they fit in the device slightly more snug. is everyones a little loose?

The rba on the VV reo is simply amazing. You have the built in juice. and when you make your coil you dont have to mess around with exact wraps for exact power etc as the VV component will fix it just fine. Happy customer.

Wait, Also, where is the airhole suppose to be lined up with on the metal piece you screw into the rba2. It seems like I dont have a choice on where it ends up as I just screw it in until its snug and its potluck where it ends up.

any input on any of the questions would be so great!

thanks,

scott
 

super_X_drifter

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Scott, the lower the gauge the wire, the thicker and lower resistance.

So, 28 ga is thicker and lower in resistance than 30 ga.

Here's how I roll:

On a mech grand, I shoot for approx 10-13 wraps around a .055" jig. The resistance I like is about 1.5 ohms. I use 28 ga for this application.

On my VV grand I try to get to about 2 ohms. I also like more wraps since the VV can be turned up to heat them up quick. So I wrap about 12-14 wraps of 29 ga.

A good rule of thumb is to select a wire that puts you in your target resistance using 10-13 wraps on a mech and 12-14 wraps on a VV :)

The airhole should line up pretty much in front of the coil. If it doesn't, you can use Orings to achieve this. As close to the center of the coil is best but if you imagine the center of your coil is 12:00 - if the airhole is anywhere from 11:00 - 1:00 your good. Beyond that and I'd suggest using an oring between the cap and base :)
 
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JC Okie

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The airhole (as super_X_drifter said) should automatically end up right in front of the coil when you screw the cap on, then when you screw the atty into the REO, it needs to be facing away from you....or up when you hold it horizontally to vape. You can make adjustment using the o-ring that was included with the RM2. Put it in the catch cup....it actually serves a couple of purposes. It helps prevent leaks, but it also allows you to align the whole atty the way you need it to face. If the air hole doesn't fall where you need it to be (between 10 and 2 when you're vaping,) then you could use a slightly thicker o-ring to make the adjustments. Does that help?
 

flexsr

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Helps tremendously, thank you so much all !!!!!!!!

Just real quick - I know where the o ring goes on the device and thanks to you guys I know where the air hole in the cap should know go I just not sure how the o ring that fits around the 510 connector on the device can help you align the air hole in the cap.... Thx
 

generic mutant

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Some people put an o-ring at the bottom of the cap threads - there's still enough thread to stop it leaking. You can use stiff wire cut into a little ring too, apparently.

But Rob * drills the holes out with them screwed together, so they should line up out of the box.



* or the OEM, not sure - I think I read that Rob does it himself.
 
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generic mutant

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Don't muscle it, you'll damage the threads. If you take out the drip tip you should be able to see whether it lines up.

It should be at 90 degrees (give or take) from the line intersecting the two posts. If it's too far clockwise, you can 'wind it back' by putting an o-ring in, but you shouldn't need to.

I'm not anywhere near as experienced as super_X_drifter, but I think he'll agree with me that there are many 'rules of thumb' about coil building, but few that are hard and fast. If 6 - 8 works for you, go for it.

A lot of people have been moving in the 'micro-coil' direction recently. The theory seems to be that by having more wraps with smaller coil diameter and pitch / thicker wire, you end up with the same wattage output, but a more even heating of the wick. 10 - 12 wraps seems to be the average of how people build them, but I've seen them go all the way up to 40 or so.

Micro-coils tend also to be a little more physically solid, so they're less likely to distort / move out of position when you're cleaning / wicking them.
 
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pesky_human

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Listen to Super_X.

On an RM2, I love 27-28g single micro-coils. Straight boss. for .8-1.0 ohms, these gauges rule.

30 is also fine. Really easy to work with and if you want something in the 1.2-1.5 ohm range, very easy on the batteries and basically ideal for the Reo platform as it currently sits without voltage drop. 30 g. micro with cotton will have you vaping like the sir that you are. #realtalk

A 27 gauge coil will back your screws off such that you will have to check them every other day. This is fine because it will coincide with your wick changes. With 30 gauge, you can let it go until your wick starts to really suck bad. It takes me 2 imnutes to change a wick and tighten screws, so it's worth it to me to be in the .8 range, but I actually get great flavor with 30 g. and better battery life, so unless you are in a cloud competition, stock up on 29-30. Great to wrap, and superb performance.
 

super_X_drifter

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Sorry about all the questions but I've been getting my favorite vape on only 6-8 wraps with either the 28 or 30 gauge on my reo vv - you mentioned I should be up in the 10-15 range - wld you mind explaining - what am I missing out on by using so few wraps ? Thx

I have found that with micro coils (say 1/16" inside diameter and touching wraps) wrap count of atleast 10 (especially on a VV grand) equals better VTF. I suppose it's due to more surface area in contact with the wick and concentrated, even heat distribution.

I really like 28 gauge (peskys right about 27 - the screws do tend to loosen with it) for my lower resistance mech builds. For my VV builds I like 29. 30 is great too :)

Sounds like you just need to order a spool of 29 :)

Oh, and in my video, it looks like I'm really cranking down on my RM2. I'm not, it's nice and snug, that's it. I just can't get a good grip on it :)
 

flexsr

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A little off topic but my reo grande has served me well for two years using cartomizers for some reason I don't understand on the reo vv cartos have sucked complete a** ! One would think I cld just dial it in to roughly 4volta n get the same vape but no such luck - on the flip side the VV with the rba has been simply amazing ! It blows me away how good it is !

Alright - next project is trying to understand this whole wattage thing n how wattage effects vaping - the voltage thing seems pretty simple for the novice but time to delve in and see how everything is interelated - any links would be greatly appreciated if not I shall search myself - alright I promise I'm "out" for good this time on this thread
 
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