help with sub ohm setup?

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edyle

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Alright I went an bought a omega rda anyone know about these? It fires for like 2 seconds on my istick then says protection and stops.. do the 3 screws need to be screwed down all the way? It came with two little wicks so I put cotton all around them to make sure there's a lot of juice so the coil doesn't burn

Did you not try it at the shop

Did the person at the shop wrap some subohm coil for you?

Check the ohms on that coil.


Get some 30 gauge kanthal and wrap a 2 ohm coil for it.
Or 28 gauge and wrap a 1.3 ohm coil
 

edyle

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1726302-2.jpg


That should do.
 
I have all of the isticks, the 20w, the 30w and the 50w. The 20w will not sub ohm...the 30w and 50w will. It sounds like your battery is getting too hot and it's causing the battery to go into protective mod...so it doesn't burn up. I would recommend a good box mod...I have all of different types of batteries and setups but it sounds like your in need of a box mod...some of them are going for dirt cheap right now...I don't know what your vape budget is or even if you have one but something like a Siegeli 100w or higher, a God box, I know a China company, I'll get the name for you was selling them for about $42.00 which is dirt cheap...I ordered myself one but I did hear that this company takes awhile to ship to the USA. My was just shipped but who knows how long it will be in transit. If your looking to save money don't go locally, go online.. I hate to say this because I totally support the local B and M shops. Your istick wouldn't fire if it was the 20w and you were subohming. May I ask what istick do you have?
 

kartoffelfaust

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It wasn't firing and saying protection because the 3 screws weren't screwed down all the way on the rda, it's working now even reading it as 1.1 ohm which is nice, I know I cannot sub ohm on the 20w which is the one I have I'm waiting to see if I like rdas before getting a box mod

Yup - everything's gotta be snug, but be careful with overtightening or you'll clip the leads and end up in the same spot. The setup you have is a great way to try out dripping w/o investing too much, or trying to push the limits of sub ohm.

I just finished rebuilding my tugboat with a single 1.0 ohm, and running it just above 20w - you don't need 100+ watts to enjoy a flavor.
 

SissySpike

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It wasn't firing and saying protection because the 3 screws weren't screwed down all the way on the rda, it's working now even reading it as 1.1 ohm which is nice, I know I cannot sub ohm on the 20w which is the one I have I'm waiting to see if I like rdas before getting a box mod



a wise investment would be a cheap multimeter if you end up liking rebuilding it will be a very good tool also when and if you get a box mod please dont go cheap on batteries or charger and use a minimum of 20A batteries in it

Yup - everything's gotta be snug, but be careful with overtightening or you'll clip the leads and end up in the same spot. The setup you have is a great way to try out dripping w/o investing too much, or trying to push the limits of sub ohm.

I just finished rebuilding my tugboat with a single 1.0 ohm, and running it just above 20w - you don't need 100+ watts to enjoy a flavor.

That is true but with 40 watts and .5 ohms you can do this 1.jpg
 

roxynoodle

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Ok, istick 20W. Try a Magma first. Its not a cloud monster, but compared to a clearo, it will seem like one. And down the line, if you want a whole new cloud setup, the Magma is awesome for sampling juice due to its great flavor. So its worth hanging onto forever.

I suggest the Magma, because its a very good vape built single coil, about 1.1 ohm with 26g kanthal and running 17-20W. So it will work well with the istick. I know because I used to have a 20W istick and tried a Magma on it with that build :)
 

kartoffelfaust

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a wise investment would be a cheap multimeter if you end up liking rebuilding it will be a very good tool also when and if you get a box mod please dont go cheap on batteries or charger and use a minimum of 20A batteries in it



That is true but with 40 watts and .5 ohms you can do this View attachment 427811

LOL - yeah, previous build was .5 dual running at 42-43 watts. Had to take apart the IPV3 powering it - darn cover finally fell off after the holes warped to larger than the stock screw heads that hold it on. It's back together now, after some dremmel work, a little gorilla epoxy and a few neodymium magnets later. Even so, the 1.0 build at 24 watts aint far off.
 

dennon21

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I ended up getting an omega rda.. so far not the greatest experience.. the stick wicks and wire ended up getting messed up, now only on side fired at 1.7 ohms.. I tightened the one post now it turns when I tighten the screw on top of it.. at fist it was awesome but now it's just a mess lol back to the drawing board I'm thinking of getting some kanthal wire and just building my own coils.. what guage wire would I need? Also any help on the moving post thing?
 

kartoffelfaust

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28g should do it - just build a single coil since that's easier on a 3 post when you are first starting. 28g dual will generally be less than 1.0. I find 30g hard to work with because its so thin.

Get some cotton to wick with. Get an ohm meter, they're 10-15 bucks and worth every penny. Test before putting the atomizer on your battery. Watch some videos on youtube about how to wrap coils and wick if unsure.

Amazon has most of what you need, or you can go to your local vape shop, but its generally expensive in B&Ms.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ng-some-thoughts-startup-supplies-amazon.html

The center post should not move. Assuming it screws into the deck, you might be able to screw it back in, and/or use a screwdriver to snug the adjustable 510 connector at the bottom.
 

alicewonderland

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I ended up getting an omega rda.. so far not the greatest experience.. the stick wicks and wire ended up getting messed up, now only on side fired at 1.7 ohms.. I tightened the one post now it turns when I tighten the screw on top of it.. at fist it was awesome but now it's just a mess lol back to the drawing board I'm thinking of getting some kanthal wire and just building my own coils.. what guage wire would I need? Also any help on the moving post thing?

yeah, those wicks/wire that come with every rda suck, no one who uses RDA's really use those. 24-26gauge kanthal is easy to build with, its stiff enough to wrap without it springing back on you. Also it sounds like you bought the typical cloned omega RDA that everyone sells here also, the posts always spin, im not sure why everyone keeps that junk rda in their shops still.
 

JMarca

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You're going to scorch those Kanger coils up by accident just by playing with voltages or messing around and that can get very costly quickly!

If you want to start messing around with sub ohm coils buy yourself an ohm meter or a regulated device, some Japanese cotton and some wire. Not only is it MUCH cheaper but you'll find it most cases it's alot more satisfying as well.
 

dennon21

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I ended up buying an atlantis 2 and a istick 50w it's awesome lol as for the rda yeah I assumed it was a cheap Chinese knockoff when the post started spinning freely.. When I built on it now I just don't use that post.. so far I have build a .5 coil on it and a .3 both worked pretty good I've also been rebuilding aerotank coils just for fun they just always seem to leak lol dammnnnn
 
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