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Fresh charge on that battery = 4.2 times 4.2 divided 0.6
4.2*4.2/0.6
Watts - volts - amps - ohms conversion calculator
4.2*4.2/0.6
Watts - volts - amps - ohms conversion calculator
Ohm's law can be stated simply as "current is equal to the ratio of voltage divided by resistance" or I = V/R. As these values are all related to one another, there are other, identical ways to state this same relationship:
V = I*R
R = V/I
Another related quantity is the raw power (or "wattage"), which is equal to the voltage times the current (P = V*I and, since we already know that I = V/R, this can be re-written as P = V*V/R or P = V2/R).
That battery at full charge (~4.2v) with that atomizer (0.6Ω) will draw roughly 4.2 / 0.6 = 7 volts, for a total power output of around 4.2 * 7 = 29.4 watts. Check the specs on your battery to make sure it is rated for a continuous discharge rate of greater than seven amps.
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R: Resistance, measured in ohms (Ω ["omega"], named after German physicist Georg Ohm) is essentially how "hard" it is to push a current through the wire(s) of your atomizer coil, or any electrical circuit. This is determined by the length and thickness of the wire used in the coil; longer, thinner wire (putting more wraps in your coil and/or using a lighter, higher-gauge of wire) will result in increased resistance and, therefore, lower current drawn from the battery as compared to shorter or heavier-gauge wire which provides less resistance. It is the inverse of the lesser-used "conductivity" (G, measured in siemens or mhos ["ohm" spelled backwards, and the symbol is an upside-down omega: "
"]) which is a measure of how "easy" it is to push the current through as opposed to how "hard."
V: Voltage, measured in volts (v) is "how hard it tries" to push the current through the wire. Set manually on a regulated or "VV" (variable voltage) device, otherwise it starts off highest when the battery is fully charged and gradually depletes as the battery drains; typical batteries max out around 4.2v when fully charged.
I: Current (or amperage), measured in amperes or "amps" (A) is the ratio of voltage over resistance (I = V/R -- this is "Ohm's Law" in its original form.) Increasing the voltage and/or decreasing the resistance will both result in a higher current being drawn. Make sure you don't draw more current than your battery is rated for.
P: Power (or wattage), measured in watts (W) is the product of voltage times current (P = V*I or, alternately, P = V*V/R or P = V2/R). A VW (variable wattage) device reads the resistance of the coil using an ohmsmeter, and adjusts the voltage to reach the desired power output.
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To help you visualize these relationships, imagine a garden hose hooked up to a water faucet. The rate at which water flows from the faucet (in gallons per minute, for example) represents the voltage. Resistance/conductivity is how thick or thin the hose is, and current is the speed at which the water comes out the end ("speed" as in velocity; i.e. miles per hour, not gallons per minute.)
- If you increase the water flow (voltage) then the speed at which it comes out (current) will increase appropriately, since there is more water being pushed through the same-sized hose.
- Likewise, if you constrict the hose so that it is smaller around (increasing the resistance) then you will get higher speed (current) at the output but without increasing the overall amount of water (voltage).
Power is a product of both how much water is coming out, and how fast it is moving. Enough water (high voltage), and it can push you around even if it's only moving very slowly (low current -- think ocean waves, for example). On the other hand, if the pressure (current) is high enough, even a small amount of water (low voltage) can be very powerful, like a water jet cutting through solid steel (or, for a practical example, a stun gun/taser is powered by a 9v battery that you can buy in nearly any retail store). When lots of water is coming out and it's at a high speed, it's like being hit with a fire hose -- it's going to knock you down and soak you in the process.
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Here's a handy diagram that shows the relations between all four of these factors (courtesy Wikipedia):
V = I*R
R = V/I
Another related quantity is the raw power (or "wattage"), which is equal to the voltage times the current (P = V*I and, since we already know that I = V/R, this can be re-written as P = V*V/R or P = V2/R).
That battery at full charge (~4.2v) with that atomizer (0.6Ω) will draw roughly 4.2 / 0.6 = 7 volts, for a total power output of around 4.2 * 7 = 29.4 watts. Check the specs on your battery to make sure it is rated for a continuous discharge rate of greater than seven amps.
----------
R: Resistance, measured in ohms (Ω ["omega"], named after German physicist Georg Ohm) is essentially how "hard" it is to push a current through the wire(s) of your atomizer coil, or any electrical circuit. This is determined by the length and thickness of the wire used in the coil; longer, thinner wire (putting more wraps in your coil and/or using a lighter, higher-gauge of wire) will result in increased resistance and, therefore, lower current drawn from the battery as compared to shorter or heavier-gauge wire which provides less resistance. It is the inverse of the lesser-used "conductivity" (G, measured in siemens
V: Voltage, measured in volts (v) is "how hard it tries" to push the current through the wire. Set manually on a regulated or "VV" (variable voltage) device, otherwise it starts off highest when the battery is fully charged and gradually depletes as the battery drains; typical batteries max out around 4.2v when fully charged.
I: Current (or amperage), measured in amperes or "amps" (A) is the ratio of voltage over resistance (I = V/R -- this is "Ohm's Law" in its original form.) Increasing the voltage and/or decreasing the resistance will both result in a higher current being drawn. Make sure you don't draw more current than your battery is rated for.
P: Power (or wattage), measured in watts (W) is the product of voltage times current (P = V*I or, alternately, P = V*V/R or P = V2/R). A VW (variable wattage) device reads the resistance of the coil using an ohmsmeter, and adjusts the voltage to reach the desired power output.
----------
To help you visualize these relationships, imagine a garden hose hooked up to a water faucet. The rate at which water flows from the faucet (in gallons per minute, for example) represents the voltage. Resistance/conductivity is how thick or thin the hose is, and current is the speed at which the water comes out the end ("speed" as in velocity; i.e. miles per hour, not gallons per minute.)
- If you increase the water flow (voltage) then the speed at which it comes out (current) will increase appropriately, since there is more water being pushed through the same-sized hose.
- Likewise, if you constrict the hose so that it is smaller around (increasing the resistance) then you will get higher speed (current) at the output but without increasing the overall amount of water (voltage).
Power is a product of both how much water is coming out, and how fast it is moving. Enough water (high voltage), and it can push you around even if it's only moving very slowly (low current -- think ocean waves, for example). On the other hand, if the pressure (current) is high enough, even a small amount of water (low voltage) can be very powerful, like a water jet cutting through solid steel (or, for a practical example, a stun gun/taser is powered by a 9v battery that you can buy in nearly any retail store). When lots of water is coming out and it's at a high speed, it's like being hit with a fire hose -- it's going to knock you down and soak you in the process.
----------
Here's a handy diagram that shows the relations between all four of these factors (courtesy Wikipedia):
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Just a word of caution. Some batteries state their peak output instead of their continuous output rating. Also, the stated output is the output of the tested batteries of that type. Due to manufacturing fluctuations, some may be able to sustain slightly higher outputs and some slightly lower.
Another good practice is to leave a bit of "safety margin" in your build. Coils can change their ohms as they age/get gunked up, etc.
Since your setup is very close to the stated output of the battery, I'd do some investigating to see if you can determine the actual sustained output rating of that battery before using a coil that close to the rated output.
Just MHO, of course, but trying to keep things as safe as possible.
Hopefully, all will be well within safety, and you can enjoy your vaping for a very long time.
Another good practice is to leave a bit of "safety margin" in your build. Coils can change their ohms as they age/get gunked up, etc.
Since your setup is very close to the stated output of the battery, I'd do some investigating to see if you can determine the actual sustained output rating of that battery before using a coil that close to the rated output.
Just MHO, of course, but trying to keep things as safe as possible.
Hopefully, all will be well within safety, and you can enjoy your vaping for a very long time.
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