helpp

[dooglez]

I am going to b getting a mech mod here shortly (very exxcited) I no most of u won't like this but it is a clone of a Nemesis (vape budget) n I had a protank 2 on the svd vv/vw and the tank started messing up on me leaking burnt taste flooding. but my main question is wat kind of tank should I get I like being able to fill up not not have to worry about dripping cause of work. but I like the glass tank idea. I am not experienced at rebuild ables taking one step at a time. I also like the bottom wick idea. thanks for your help

 

[Kaisen]

Stick with the ProTank 2 and learn how not to flood/burn it. They work quite well. Or at least as well as any other glass bottom coil toppers

 

[dooglez]

wat r some of ur suggestions on not flooding it or burning cause I don't over fill it and I don't have my voltage high at all n my wats r not high either. I'm not gonna lie I like the pt2 nice size n able to change drip tips is fun to

 

[Dakota Jim]

Hey dooglez - welcome to ecf

I have a question. Why a mech mod if you aren't into RBA's? They are unregulated so you get higher volts when you put the fresh battery in and as the battery goes down the vape will get weaker. It seems to me most people are into mech mods for the ability to build sub ohm coils so the can vape at higher than 15 watts (anything above 7.5 watts tastes burnt to me)

my protanks start flooding (and burnt taste) when my heads need replacing (I also leave 1 flavor wick in with 70/30 - if I take both out it floods right away)

 

[Amberina]

I have the protank 2 as well. It works awesome for me but it does flood and gurgle a bit sometimes. It usually happens when I have it laying on it's side for a while or after I drop it (whoops!). What I do to fix it is I take the bottom off and remove the coil head. Then I blow out both ways on the coil head and wipe out the bottom where the coil head screws in. I also blow out the air hole. I put it all back together and it works great. I usually have to do this about once a day. (usually because I drop my pv). Also if you notice the burnt taste you can gently wipe off the wicks. Then let it sit for a couple of minutes after you put it back together before you vape it. If this doesn't work then I would just change out the coil head. Remember when you use a coil head for the first time to let it sit for a few minutes to let the juice settle into the wicks.
Hope this helps you!!
Good luck!!!

 

[blondeambition3]

I am going to b getting a mech mod here shortly (very exxcited) I no most of u won't like this but it is a clone of a Nemesis (vape budget) n I had a protank 2 on the svd vv/vw and the tank started messing up on me leaking burnt taste flooding. but my main question is wat kind of tank should I get I like being able to fill up not not have to worry about dripping cause of work. but I like the glass tank idea. I am not experienced at rebuild ables taking one step at a time. I also like the bottom wick idea. thanks for your help

I highly recommend you get a "Vivi Nova" bottom coil clearo.

Here's why;
Changeable Heating Coil Head (Easy to change out when needed)- Bottom Coil Design (Atomizer heats liquid from the bottom)- It can be easily disassembled, every part is changeable. (Easy to clean) - Larger Capacity Tank ( Holds up to 2.5 ml of E-Liquid!). Produces A Pure Clean Tasting Vapor - flavor of juice will come through -Less airy of a draw than other bottom coil tanks on the market
*No leaking and no burning taste!

510 Threading

*At $12, it's a no brainer

I wish I'd have found these YEARS ago.

Here's where; VIVI NOVA BCC TANK 2.5ML

 

[StarDose]

I'm waiting on a nemesis clone myself, looks like a nice mech.

 

[dooglez]

Hey dooglez - welcome to ecf

I have a question. Why a mech mod if you aren't into RBA's? They are unregulated so you get higher volts when you put the fresh battery in and as the battery goes down the vape will get weaker. It seems to me most people are into mech mods for the ability to build sub ohm coils so the can vape at higher than 15 watts (anything above 7.5 watts tastes burnt to me)

my protanks start flooding (and burnt taste) when my heads need replacing (I also leave 1 flavor wick in with 70/30 - if I take both out it floods right away)

I wouldn't mind getting into them I don't think it would b too hard with all the videos on youtube n plus w help from people on here. I'm really into chasing clouds quite yet in but bigger clouds would b nice. wat would b a good beginner head for a mech mod but still a decent 1?

 

[Vaslovik]

My own experience with a Protank on a mech was that I went through coils willy-nilly. I started rewinding my coils and it became an ongoing industry, prolly cuz I'm a chain vaper. I would go through 2 or 3 coils a day, and the burnt taste got on my nerves. I had to carry a couple spare coils with me when I went out. It got old fast.

After a couple weeks of that I got tired of it, and realized it was RBA time. I got an AGA-T2, some SS mesh, some 28 ga. kanthal, and an ohms checker with 510 connection and went at it, watching the video tutorials on YouTube, and was soon happily vaping away at .8 ohm which turned out to be my sweet spot.

It was a bit of work and effort to learn wick making and coil winding, but well worth it. Now I have an RSST which I'm very happy with and wish I'd started with instead of that AGA-T2, which was a cantankerous device to learn on, but it taught me well. I skipped over the carto tanks and regulated mods and I think I saved a lot of money doing so. My Protank has been gathering dust since I went the RBA route.

So if I were you I'd just get an RSST for that mech and learn to build it well. You will not be sorry.

 

[Credo]

First mech?
I know I'm slightly off topic but if you've never read up on battery choices, care, and maintenance please do.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blogs/baditude/4848-9-battery-basics-mods-imr-protected.html

It's quite a bit different from using a regulated PV.
Be careful and enjoy

Please don't let the battery get below 2 volts....ever.
Good head room is around 3.4v (under load, particularly with sub-ohm setups...voltage is substantially lower).

Over drain on an Ion battery can cause it to reverse polarize...hopefully at worst it won't take a charge any more if this happens...but it's possible it could vent (very hot...dangerious).

Check the battery often...
If going sub-ohm...consider dividing its number of charge cycles in half, possibly overkill, but better safe than sorry.

Consider using a current fuse.

For all day vaping without having to think much about it, consider a Kick 2 button. That'll offer some 'vape it till it quits' battery protection, and will also allow you to 'fine tune' the wattage to your coils.

The Kick 2 is a really nice option for what I call 'pacifier PV use'...where sub-ohm raw mech use without the kick is more for 'I need a big and ultra fast nicotine dose'. A Kick would really come in handy if you don't always require massive clouds of eye watering vapor.

 

[Credo]

Hey dooglez - welcome to ecf

I have a question. Why a mech mod if you aren't into RBA's? They are unregulated so you get higher volts when you put the fresh battery in and as the battery goes down the vape will get weaker. It seems to me most people are into mech mods for the ability to build sub ohm coils so the can vape at higher than 15 watts (anything above 7.5 watts tastes burnt to me)

my protanks start flooding (and burnt taste) when my heads need replacing (I also leave 1 flavor wick in with 70/30 - if I take both out it floods right away)

Today, there is an ever growing number of nice mechs that are really inexpensive. Many of them also 'look pretty dawg gone cool'. They can be appealing for that reason alone. They are also really durable...with no wire, and buttons/parts that can last for years of problem free use.

I personally like a "Kicked" mech (Big bottom pinky button) simply because I can chunk them around with heavy tools, enjoy them in extreme weather conditions or highly corrosive salt water boating and coastal environments, and I don't even have to pull off my work gloves to handle/use it.

Even if you want a regulated PV, these days it is easy to get a system that is 'interchangable' between any of your 18mm unregulated mods...so you can get the best of BOTH worlds in a sub $100 unit.

See the Kick 2 to learn how.

 

[Credo]

I wouldn't mind getting into them I don't think it would b too hard with all the videos on youtube n plus w help from people on here. I'm really into chasing clouds quite yet in but bigger clouds would b nice. wat would b a good beginner head for a mech mod but still a decent 1?

While not a 'true' RBA/T, here's a GREAT option to get your feet wet.
Easy to do...decent vape...POCKETABLE...super light weight...easy as pie to do.

A PBusardo Tutorial - Vivi Nova Cleaning & Rebuilding - YouTube
His coil winding demo starts around 14min into the vid.

 

[Credo]

My own experience with a Protank on a mech was that I went through coils willy-nilly. I started rewinding my coils and it became an ongoing industry, prolly cuz I'm a chain vaper. I would go through 2 or 3 coils a day, and the burnt taste got on my nerves. I had to carry a couple spare coils with me when I went out. It got old fast.

A couple of things that might help with a situation like this:

1. Pull the battery off the charger early (at say 3.8v).

2. Wind higher ohm coils for it and up the nic level of your liquid some.

3. When using stuff that doesn't like more than 4 to 8 watts of power...and has a 'smaller' sweet spot where it wicks/tastes good, drop in a Kick. For these things, even the cheaper kick clones at $10 - $20 are good.

I agree...a fresh hot battery on an unregulated mech, or too hot of a coil with those little wicks can make a pretty good tank taste a like piece of burnt toast. Just gotta get the heat down some, and keep it 'steady' (This is why PWM regulated mods are SO POPULAR).

When it comes to 'taste/flavor'. It's not always about 'more heat...more wick...more coil surface...more air...more heat'. It's simply about finding a sweet spot where whatever system you have screwed on the PV is 'in balance' and working properly.

 

[OlDogNewTricks]

Personally, I would suggest getting a kick 2 or crown and an adapter, if there is one or shorter batteries. Unregulated voltage and BCCs aren't really a good idea unless you are building your own and know what you are doing. Experience is your friend, not gear. You can get an excellent vape with very 'humble' gear. If you are a cloud chaser, you must rebuild, period. Good luck and have fun!

 

[Vaslovik]

A couple of things that might help with a situation like this:

1. Pull the battery off the charger early (at say 3.8v).

2. Wind higher ohm coils for it and up the nic level of your liquid some.

3. When using stuff that doesn't like more than 4 to 8 watts of power...and has a 'smaller' sweet spot where it wicks/tastes good, drop in a Kick. For these things, even the cheaper kick clones at $10 - $20 are good.

I agree...a fresh hot battery on an unregulated mech can make a pretty good tank taste a like piece of burnt toast. Just gotta get the heat down some, and keep it 'steady'.

When it comes to 'taste/flavor'. It's not always about 'more heat...more wick...more coil surface...more air...more heat'. It's simply about finding a sweet spot where whatever system you have screwed on the PV is 'in balance' and working properly.

Uhhhh.... yeah... I abandoned the Protank long ago and see no good reason to go back to it. Nothing vapes like a well set up RBA. Certainly not a Protank. I'm so done with that.

 

[Credo]

Uhhhh.... yeah... I abandoned the Protank long ago and see no good reason to go back to it. Nothing vapes like a well set up RBA. Certainly not a Protank. I'm so done with that.

Glad you found what works for you

I enjoy my RBA as well...1ish Ohm micro coils at 1/16 size with cotton. Very smooth, tastes great. Sadly it doesn't fit my 'life-style' very well though (PITA to build...easier loose 2Ohm coils at higher wattages (Kick boosted or using a 5v setup) are just as good tho, and I can wind them in my sleep) so I compromise. Those are all living room vapes for me...too hard to maintain on the go.

Cheap Novas with SS/Silica hybrid. Easy to do (aside from oxidizing my ss wicks, can do it without a single tool but my fingers), light-weight and fiddle free, rides well on the go, not so 'humidity/weather sensitive, fits the budget (not a juice hog...all day battery efficiency...safety...etc).

 

[OlDogNewTricks]

In my humble opinion, a good cartotank (Smoktech pyrex DCT) with a Boge XL LR (F16) cartomizer at 8 watts on a box style mod (MVP, VTR) gives a non-fiddley, consistent, great flavor, great vapor vape that I can take anywhere, beach, boat, work, whatever. Fill it in the morning and vape it all day. Put another one with a different flavor in a pill bottle with a cap and you have a small, safe, contained spare/changeup. Set it and forget it. Also, the cartos last me around 30-50ml eacha nd cost about a buck and a quarter each. There is a learning curve to get them down, true, but it was pretty quick to get them down. Good luck and have fun!

 

[cyberjunkiefr]

Hey dooglez - welcome to ecf

I have a question. Why a mech mod if you aren't into RBA's? They are unregulated so you get higher volts when you put the fresh battery in and as the battery goes down the vape will get weaker. It seems to me most people are into mech mods for the ability to build sub ohm coils so the can vape at higher than 15 watts (anything above 7.5 watts tastes burnt to me)

I recently bought a Kamry K103 mechanical mod because I had an I-Atty genesis atomizer comming in.
In the mean while I put my Protank on the mech mod and found out that the taste was better than when I put the Protank on my evic or vamo in 18350 mode.
My Protank is recoiled with a microcoil/coton at 1.6ohms, so that would be about 10watts on the mech mod with full battery.
There should'nt be be a difference between the mech mod and the regulated pv at 10w but there defenitly is.
On searching in forums I read a thread where somebody says that the pwm of the regulataed pv can change the taste.
In the mean while I've got my I-atty and tried it on al three mods and there is again a big difference.
On the mech mod at the same wattage the taste is rounder and smooth and really great. On the vamo and evic the different "nuances" are less present and to me, the vape is a bit harsher.
I now have ordered a mech mod in 18650 mode and the evic and vamo are not used anymore.
I use the vamo just for testing resistance after rebuilding and because I've oredered a ohm meter at fasttech, the two regulated pv's will sone rest in peace in my drawer.
The K103 with his original ato are a protank will be my vape at work or outdoors (real stealth) and the 18650 mod (nemesis clone) will be for home with the I-atty with his 0.9 ohms microcoil/coton.

Have a good vape!!!

 

[dice57]

Ok, the Hcigar Nemesis is a great mod, totally kickable with a 18650 battery. Would highly recommend getting the Evolv kick 2, to go with it. That way you can regulate you mod, get all the protection of a voltage regulated mod, and be able to fire builds for .5-3 ohms, and crank it to a max of 15 watts. If you try to run a mediocre atomizer on an unregulated mech mod, you are likely to burn it up if you ohms are to low. An Aspire Vivi Nova BDC would be a good choice to start out with a mech mod. It can handle 15 watts and wick plenty well. Then I'd start educating my self about the different types of rba's and find what looks good for you. I am partial to bottom coil rba's and own the Russian, Terminator-C, the UVO Aqua, and have a Fogger V3 on the way.

Check out the micro build section of the forum, and the Nano Dragon build section, these two threads and build are really easy to master, or at least get competent in quickly. And they produce fraking great tasting vape. Building is actually not hard to do. And after a few builds one becomes more proficient. It is quite fun too. Love to experiment and combine different styles. A few tools are necessary. Since you are going Mech mod, you will need an atomizer ohm meter, or any kind of ohm meter. I really like the conveyance of the atomizer ohm meters. Not only are they good for reading you build, but they provide a good platform for mounting and wicking the atty. Also things like a butane torch, tweezers, needle nose pliers, and of course your wire of choice for the coils. You don't need all these tools right off, and can use most of the stuff lying around the house any how. I picked my stuff up a little at a time.

Also get educated on the prober batteries to use, and care and safe handling of batteries, and get a quality charger too. All this information can be found on this forum. Good luck and happy Vape trails to you!!!

 

[Credo]

I recently bought a Kamry K103 mechanical mod because I had an I-Atty genesis atomizer comming in.
In the mean while I put my Protank on the mech mod and found out that the taste was better than when I put the Protank on my evic or vamo in 18350 mode.
My Protank is recoiled with a microcoil/coton at 1.6ohms, so that would be about 10watts on the mech mod with full battery.
There should'nt be be a difference between the mech mod and the regulated pv at 10w but there defenitly is.
On searching in forums I read a thread where somebody says that the pwm of the regulataed pv can change the taste.
In the mean while I've got my I-atty and tried it on al three mods and there is again a big difference.
On the mech mod at the same wattage the taste is rounder and smooth and really great. On the vamo and evic the different "nuances" are less present and to me, the vape is a bit harsher.
I now have ordered a mech mod in 18650 mode and the evic and vamo are not used anymore.
I use the vamo just for testing resistance after rebuilding and because I've oredered a ohm meter at fasttech, the two regulated pv's will sone rest in peace in my drawer.
The K103 with his original ato are a protank will be my vape at work or outdoors (real stealth) and the 18650 mod (nemesis clone) will be for home with the I-atty with his 0.9 ohms microcoil/coton.

Have a good vape!!!

Agreed, but keep in mind that there's a pretty big difference between the PWM of a DNA-20D like the Opus (and DNA-30watt rigs are probably only weeks hitting the streets) based mod, A ProVari, or Genuine Evolv Kick 2, VS many of the clones out there. (ProVari can't go sub-ohm, but the others can..but with boosting up to 6v...not much need for sub-ohm).

Also, you can still get some mighty fine analog HV 'bucking' circuits that are smooth as butter. You don't even have to stack batteries anymore...just get a 5v NiMh 18650. Buzz Pro, REO VV, Saber MAX, etc...they all use this approach.

The better PWM circuits have a very flat and even pulse...they have filters and such that make it a very accurate signal and keeps the coil at a steady temperature throughout the 'entire' draw. Also, the better circuits can 'alternate' between running sub-ohm straight off the battery, and using their booster tech to up the voltage (which ever method is more efficient to reach the desired coil wattage).

When it comes to the coil part of the vaping equation...if the coil is a constant temperature the whole time it is fired (no spikes and dips), then it doesn't matter how it is powered.