Very good video from bishop showing the cause/effect of the ceramic nut placement with channels open and closed
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BZM4EpOiHxc&sns=em
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BZM4EpOiHxc&sns=em
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Isn't placing that O-ring going to close the slots on the bottom of the ceramic?
It sure will, why not just close them the way it was intended?
I just watched that vid before i rebuildt my clone. i left those channels open tho, should i have closed them? and closed them they way it was inteded, is that by twisting the nut until it closed the holes?
I buildt it with 2 wicks of 3mm, cut off 2 strains of each wicks down the channels, single 1,8ohm coil. works ok, but still wicking a bit too much maybe, or is the vape supposed to be very saturated in these devices?
autofeed is off, and i open the mouthpiece just a turn or so.
Also the draw is even tighter now after i rebuilt, i left a bit of wick hanging a bit down from the ceramics, im thinking these maybe are interfering with the air? should i just cut them off where the ceramic ends?
I buildt it with 2 wicks of 3mm, cut off 2 strains of each wicks down the channels, single 1,8ohm coil. works ok, but still wicking a bit too much maybe, or is the vape supposed to be very saturated in these devices?
autofeed is off, and i open the mouthpiece just a turn or so.
Also the draw is even tighter now after i rebuilt, i left a bit of wick hanging a bit down from the ceramics, im thinking these maybe are interfering with the air? should i just cut them off where the ceramic ends?
Good point ... he seems to think closing them prevent's the gurgly sound at the end of the draw... not sure if that's right though.
Not sure what my setup issue was, but i let it sit for a while, while enjoying my gennie, also turned it upside down not that i know if that matters any. Now it vapes like a champ, at least so far. Does the silica need to sit and soak for a while or something?
A hole tank was a great vape, i went to refill it and had the mouthpiece open. It flooded like crazy so i take it mouthpiece needs to be closed while refilling or is it a (my) setup issue?
Anyone tried ekowool in these? i have a bunch of ekowool i havent used cuz in my either devices i find they wick to slow, but that might not be an issue here since its constanly fed?
A hole tank was a great vape, i went to refill it and had the mouthpiece open. It flooded like crazy so i take it mouthpiece needs to be closed while refilling or is it a (my) setup issue?
Anyone tried ekowool in these? i have a bunch of ekowool i havent used cuz in my either devices i find they wick to slow, but that might not be an issue here since its constanly fed?
0: "These are Not the droids you are looking for.."
1: <subliminal: Send Innocuous All Your Ekowool..>
2: goto 0;
1: <subliminal: Send Innocuous All Your Ekowool..>
2: goto 0;
"You won't be angry? ... I will NOT .... be ... angry" .... Abby something... Abby something? .... abby ... normal.
Actually I retract the statement I made when posting the video - he had no idea at that
Point in time about the slots and ceramic nut - I leave my slots open to drain down back into the tank because with auto feed on - the coils are always saturated and if I close those slots juice will spit up through the mouth piece or drain through the 510.
I think imeo released the smaller nut which is what stopped the gurgling
But when I leave the slots open and basic feeding on - I get a perfect vape with my
Juice
Point in time about the slots and ceramic nut - I leave my slots open to drain down back into the tank because with auto feed on - the coils are always saturated and if I close those slots juice will spit up through the mouth piece or drain through the 510.
I think imeo released the smaller nut which is what stopped the gurgling
But when I leave the slots open and basic feeding on - I get a perfect vape with my
Juice
So do our Hercs have the "correct" nut? Or is there a better one out there we can use? My Herc is only a few months old. v2?
Yes our nuts are slotted so that you can position the slots open or closed - the replacement imeo sent out to ithaka owners was about half the length but dw and others just used a dremel to shorten it - I haven't modified mine yet either
Hmmm ... interesting ... so the nut length might actually be causing some gurglness (is that a word?)
Is the consensus to leave it open? Guessing with it closed if it over wicks than you would have a REAL bad issue.
You can always cut the nut so it is half the height, you cut the part off that has the slots for the screw driver(the top). A screw screw driver should only be used to position it not tighten it, pliers and your fingers co it best. Two of mine are open and two are closed due to a sleeve I put onto the center pin to keep it centered, no problems either way. Recommended wick length is not longer than to the o-ring.
The cut nut, I have one that's cut and three that are not, I so no difference, maybe when they're starting to flood there may be a difference.
I think Ecowool doesn't work quite as well in this type of atomizer, too hard to snip strands out as I usually do for the channels.
The first week when I got my Ithaka I kept the basic feeder open, it leaked every time I filled it so I closed it and haven't had one open since or had one leak during filling.
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I agree with the ekowool statement also - great in my drippers but won't wick at all in the herc/term setups
Anyway - I was telling Dw I lost a small plastic gear looking washer that was between the center post and the bottom of the ceramic assembly and it was shorting out - so after I hooked up my wire and wick I would get no readings
I used a piece of a suction cup - cut to size and slid it over the 510 post and then screwed it into the ceramic assembly like normal - no issues for a week but now I'm getting a short somewhere before it screws into the auto/basic feed
Can someone post a pic of their naked assembly (no wick) so I can see what it's supposed to look like when screwed it and put together ?
I searched ithaka assembly but it's a little different I think - here Is mine
Anyway - I was telling Dw I lost a small plastic gear looking washer that was between the center post and the bottom of the ceramic assembly and it was shorting out - so after I hooked up my wire and wick I would get no readings
I used a piece of a suction cup - cut to size and slid it over the 510 post and then screwed it into the ceramic assembly like normal - no issues for a week but now I'm getting a short somewhere before it screws into the auto/basic feed
Can someone post a pic of their naked assembly (no wick) so I can see what it's supposed to look like when screwed it and put together ?
I searched ithaka assembly but it's a little different I think - here Is mine
I use Ekowool exclusively now in my Ithakas/Oddys, and they all work well - 2mm hollow, 2mm solid, and 1.5mm "Twix" (cotton sleeved with Ekowool). For me the Ekowool works far better than regular silica - wicks better (especially the Twix) and lasts forever. The only disadvantage of the Twix wicks is you can't dry-burn them as well, otherwise the internal cotton strands burn up quickly.
I never had problems with gurgling, even with the auto-feed open and the mouthpiece open about one full turn, but I run very thick juices (100% VG). If I start getting a "juicy vape", I just vape it horizontally until it gets back to normal and its good to go. It normally only happens once after a re-fill, and the rest of the tank is trouble-free......and yes, you need to let a new wick sit for about a half-hour before it starts wicking right....after that, no problemo.
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Instead of editing my post - I'm going to take responsibility and leave it there so others can learn from my mistakes - I was over tightening everything - so much so that I sliced the bottom o-ring down at the bottom by the 510 connection
I have also used a small plastic washer under the wires so it does not distort the o-ring now and when tightening I don't over tighten and everything is back as it should be
I have also used a small plastic washer under the wires so it does not distort the o-ring now and when tightening I don't over tighten and everything is back as it should be
@ JuniorNA, Use some thing harder, Home Depot in the hardware dept has a good selection of nylon washers.
Or you may have a few of these around the house, carefully cut the end with a razor knife and make sure it's flat. Typical cheap wall anchor, got to be the right size of coarse.
In some of my early pics of Term this part can be seen (before I went to Home Depot)as seen in this post I did a couple of days ago:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-pics-tip-tricks-quirks-337.html#post10991014
Or you may have a few of these around the house, carefully cut the end with a razor knife and make sure it's flat. Typical cheap wall anchor, got to be the right size of coarse.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-pics-tip-tricks-quirks-337.html#post10991014
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I switched the hercules center pin nut with my terminator pin nut. I had issues with gurgling and having the BF set to both wicks. Now, it's quiet.
Thanks for ur help folks.
My setup is working pretty good now, cept one lil issue;
Theres this odd taste that makes my mouth a lil itchy, i wonder if it might be the nichrom readywire thingy? i always stick to kanthal but since i wanted readywires i didnt have much of a choice. I didnt torch the wire first, maybe i should have?
2nd possibility is that the taste is from all the silicia, i didnt torch that either first.
How many tanks do u normally have to go thru before u break a new setup in?
My setup is working pretty good now, cept one lil issue;
Theres this odd taste that makes my mouth a lil itchy, i wonder if it might be the nichrom readywire thingy? i always stick to kanthal but since i wanted readywires i didnt have much of a choice. I didnt torch the wire first, maybe i should have?
2nd possibility is that the taste is from all the silicia, i didnt torch that either first.
How many tanks do u normally have to go thru before u break a new setup in?
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