I recently bought a hexohm v3 clone. It worked fine until i put a build in an atomizer that seemed to be defective, it shorted and the mod no longer fires. When i press the fire button with no atty on it reads that it is getting 6 volts no matter where the potentiometer is set. When i put an atty on it will not fire and the voltage screen does not work either. Any ideas on how to fix it or what would be broken will be appreciated.
Hexohm v3 Not firing after rda short
- Thread starter Jason Graham
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Could have possibly shorted out the board/mosfet protection. Did your batteries get hot when it shorted? I think it could be down to the mosfet protection as that is what it's designed for. It's designed to 'burn' similar to a fuse to stop a much more potentially dangerous thing for happening. I'm not 100% on that but logic would suggest that's where your issue could be. @Mooch care to share your thoughts?
I can tell you that when i try to fire it without an atomizer it makes a very fast clicking noise. I changed the batteries out quickly after i realized that it was not working hoping it was them and they seemed to be cold.
Yeah my guess is the mosfet needs replacing. I have a little understanding of electronics and circuitry through various videos and other electronics I've fixed so I would assume it is that? However like I keep saying I'm not 100%
Is there a good instructional video you would know of so i could go about replacing it? This is my first box mod of this kind so i know little about mosfets.
Not sure what's gone wrong. Could be several things.
The MOSFET doesn't offer any protection at all though. It's merely an electronic switch you control with voltage on one of the pins. It often burns out, but that's due to bad design.
The MOSFET doesn't offer any protection at all though. It's merely an electronic switch you control with voltage on one of the pins. It often burns out, but that's due to bad design.
I don't know, Google or YouTube and see if anyone else has had the same issue and put up a fix
So it could be down to a burnt out mosfet? Why do people say 'it has mosfet protection' if it doesn't? Just clueless people like me not knowing how they work properly? HahaNot sure what's gone wrong. Could be several things.
The MOSFET doesn't offer any protection at all though. It's merely an electronic switch you control with voltage on one of the pins. It often burns out, but that's due to bad design.
Here's the link
r/electronic_cigarette
Just been having a read and it could be down to your coil build, what resistance (ohms) are you running?
Sounds like the board itself shorted, sounds similar to when the authentic hex chip dies. If you like the clone the auth has a lifetime warranty on it, for as long as craving exist anyways.
Wellllll, the MOSFET does protect the button from wearing out quickly. I have no idea how that got turned into it offering any more protection than that.
May just be my understanding of things. I read mosfet protection and I assumed it meant that the mosfet would fail rather then anything else incase of a short.
Well i have tried two different attys with around .4 ohms. It also seems like the potentiameter is not working because when i fire it the screen reads that it is not regulating the voltage(meaning it reads at 6 volts no matter where it is set). but when i put an atty on and try to fire the screen quits working,
That can happen, but it's not designed into anything and it might not happen at all. The MOSFETs might last long enough for the batteries to vent or go into thermal runaway. Particularly in really good designs with very robust, cool-running MOSFET setups able to handle high amps. The current is already so high that the short circuit current just isn't that much higher that you can depend on the MOSFET burning out before something else gets damaged. Perhaps with most of the lower-current single-MOSFET setups out there it's true though.
Also from the looks of it there may not be a mosfet, atleast not one i can see.
Upload some photos of the internals, we may be able to help better
Need a picture of yours really. Can't see what's wrong with yours by seeing someone else's.
well Ill just throw this out there, in that pic there is NO mosfet in the mod... that looks to be the OKL board on teh back wall, the two wires going to the right of the batt sled Im guessing are either the POT or the display. the fet should be attached to the 510 neg. but that is going straight to the board...
That mod costs 30 bucks on GearBest... honestly if it isnt working I would just consider buying a 20 dollar PWM board from ModPCB, and new pot (PWM requires a different one than you have) and rebuild it. it will be cheaper than trying to guess what they did in that clone and fix it. Or just buy a new clone. if you do replace it, send me the busted one adn Ill rebuild it into a pwm mod for the cost of parts and shipping for ya.
That mod costs 30 bucks on GearBest... honestly if it isnt working I would just consider buying a 20 dollar PWM board from ModPCB, and new pot (PWM requires a different one than you have) and rebuild it. it will be cheaper than trying to guess what they did in that clone and fix it. Or just buy a new clone. if you do replace it, send me the busted one adn Ill rebuild it into a pwm mod for the cost of parts and shipping for ya.
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