...Don't be envious, at least not until I take some good pictures
Uh, then I'll be jealous of u
High-End Mechanicals Chat, Tips, and Pics
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Uh, then I'll be jealous of u
my kick just shipped
And the adjuster called.. $400 deductible plus he says I gotta replace my daughters car seat that we JUST bought since it has been 'compromised'
That's not too terrible. And, yeah, child seats are like helmets. They're made to save a life...once. I've had to replace bike helmets from dropping them before. At least they're not as expensive as motorcycle helmets, but still...$130 for a butterfingers moment kind of sucks. It really sucks when it's not your fault.
My car is so beaten up. I've never had anything but costmetic damage happen, but when it's parked, it appears to be a magnet for lousy drivers, shopping carts, and whatever the hell happened to my windshield.
If you end up not liking it, I'm sure you'll be able to sell it. I ordered it because I kind of like the look of carto tanks but have grown to hate cartos.
Dear team of soon-to-be-Diver-owners,
Did my first non no-res build this morning. Apart from understandably getting a higher resistance than I wanted, there is absolutely no performance change overall. 4 wrap of 32 gauge Kanthal gave me 2.4ohms (I was aiming at 1.8-2.0) so if you like it in the 1.5ish range, a 3/4 wrap of 28 gauge Kanthal ought to give you the perfect result without the use of needing to use No Res Wire.
Your friendly Diver,
- Alex (post 667 damn it)
Did my first non no-res build this morning. Apart from understandably getting a higher resistance than I wanted, there is absolutely no performance change overall. 4 wrap of 32 gauge Kanthal gave me 2.4ohms (I was aiming at 1.8-2.0) so if you like it in the 1.5ish range, a 3/4 wrap of 28 gauge Kanthal ought to give you the perfect result without the use of needing to use No Res Wire.
Your friendly Diver,
- Alex (post 667 damn it)
Oh nice! Good to know I don't need to get all flustered with all these wires once I happen to get my hands on a diver
Also, brief addendum - do not cut your wick too short. Its fine to have some fray off while you're putting down the cylinder but you need a lot of wick in there or it will gurgle. I just had to rebuild my PERFECT coil because I had cut the wicks a bit too short and it was gurgling quite a bit. I've found that if you can manage to get one side of the wick legs aiming up towards the top of the addy, it solves all problems.
Damn... I haven't vaped at 2.4ohms in a while, this is weird.
Damn... I haven't vaped at 2.4ohms in a while, this is weird.
Off to get x-rayed up - wish me luck people - need to get medical clearance to keep on fighting.
Also, whaddya mean your backpack doesn't have built in mod-holders?
Also, whaddya mean your backpack doesn't have built in mod-holders?
When is my Super T ELA going to arrive?!!!!!!!!!!!!
Okay, I feel much better, now.
- Andy . . . Don't let the Ciggieman getcha . . . vape'em.
Okay, I feel much better, now.
- Andy . . . Don't let the Ciggieman getcha . . . vape'em.
Well I just bought another diver, even though I haven't received the first one I ordered! I hope they're as great as everyone says they are because I'm tired of using genny's that I have to keep upright and carto's that just don't taste good.
I'm with you Pete, I like my gennys but at times its a pain in the .... I forgot I had one in the cabinet and it got knocked over and covered everything in juice.
Have a provari mini and a spare diver waiting for the delivery of my scuba tank, today. The scuba tank will complete this particular mini. It will finally be Atmistique'd out.
- Andy . . . Don't let the Ciggieman getcha . . . Vape'em.
- Andy . . . Don't let the Ciggieman getcha . . . Vape'em.
Short list, I know there are a ton more to add, but it's a start.
I made a blog post for it as well so if you have any to add you can reply there or PM Me.
1. Kayfun 3.1 = 22mm
2. D-Base small Killer tank = 20mm
3. Taifun GT = 23MM
4. Cyclone RDA = 14mm
5. Richman RBA = 22mm
6. Ithaka RBA = 23mm
7. RSST RBA = 22mm
8. AGA T2 = 22.5mm
9. AGI V2 = 22mm
10. AC9 RBA = 22mm
11. IGO-L RDA = 20mm
12. Z Atty = 22.225mm
13. ODDY = 23mm
14. Did Clone = 18mm
15. Kanger ProTank = 18.6mm
16. Cobra Clone = 18mm
17. Cobra = 20mm
18. DID 20mm
19. Mini Did 14mm
20. Temon Did 16mm
21. GkmF = 20mm
22. LOKI = 22mm
23. The Arrow = 17mm
24. GP Spheroid = 16mm
25. Diablo DvG = 22mm
26. Loco, B&I = 21mm
27. GRYPHON Ti = 18mm
28. AXIOM Ti = 22mm
29. PROMETEY Ti = 21mm
30. Pandora - SMv2 = 18mm
31. Talon = 16mm and 22mm
32. Senesis = 22mm
33. Synthesis = 22mm
34. Talos = 15mm
35. Genisis NV = 18mm
36. Doodlebug SE = 22mm
37. Mark-T Infinity = 12.9mm
38. G-Tank = 19mm
39. The Line, Mini Gen and Maxi Gen = 14mm (three attys in same OD)
40. The bliSS = 21mm
41. iMIST = 16mm
42. ORIGIN = 20mm
43. GP SnP = 22mm and 23mm (two variants)
44. Vela Latina = 23mm
Ill be going through and sorting them by size later, and posting the diameters of high end mods as well when I get the chance.
I made a blog post for it as well so if you have any to add you can reply there or PM Me.
1. Kayfun 3.1 = 22mm
2. D-Base small Killer tank = 20mm
3. Taifun GT = 23MM
4. Cyclone RDA = 14mm
5. Richman RBA = 22mm
6. Ithaka RBA = 23mm
7. RSST RBA = 22mm
8. AGA T2 = 22.5mm
9. AGI V2 = 22mm
10. AC9 RBA = 22mm
11. IGO-L RDA = 20mm
12. Z Atty = 22.225mm
13. ODDY = 23mm
14. Did Clone = 18mm
15. Kanger ProTank = 18.6mm
16. Cobra Clone = 18mm
17. Cobra = 20mm
18. DID 20mm
19. Mini Did 14mm
20. Temon Did 16mm
21. GkmF = 20mm
22. LOKI = 22mm
23. The Arrow = 17mm
24. GP Spheroid = 16mm
25. Diablo DvG = 22mm
26. Loco, B&I = 21mm
27. GRYPHON Ti = 18mm
28. AXIOM Ti = 22mm
29. PROMETEY Ti = 21mm
30. Pandora - SMv2 = 18mm
31. Talon = 16mm and 22mm
32. Senesis = 22mm
33. Synthesis = 22mm
34. Talos = 15mm
35. Genisis NV = 18mm
36. Doodlebug SE = 22mm
37. Mark-T Infinity = 12.9mm
38. G-Tank = 19mm
39. The Line, Mini Gen and Maxi Gen = 14mm (three attys in same OD)
40. The bliSS = 21mm
41. iMIST = 16mm
42. ORIGIN = 20mm
43. GP SnP = 22mm and 23mm (two variants)
44. Vela Latina = 23mm
Ill be going through and sorting them by size later, and posting the diameters of high end mods as well when I get the chance.
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Protank is off, guessing a typo
I always thought the cobra was 20mm, almost positive
anyway
DID 20mm
Mini Did 14mm
Temon Did 16mm
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I copied the pro tank off Kanger's website. Maybe they have it incorrect ?
Capacity: 2.5ml, Length 60mm x Diameter 10.6mm, Suitable voltage: 3.2-3.7V
Capacity: 2.5ml, Length 60mm x Diameter 10.6mm, Suitable voltage: 3.2-3.7V
I'll have to check it out whenever mine gets here, they are super tiny though.
Definitely 18mm on the protank... man I used to love genesis attys but I doubt I'll get another. I've only had one leak and never had issues with positioning but after getting a kayfun I just don't see the point.
What do you guys do at the Doctor's office while you wait? Long Post Time:
Recoil Journal -- Diver RBA
Doctor's office - on time - wait time - 1.5 hours - will try for 10 coils without freaking out the nurses. Should be working on Grant proposal; current priority -- coils. All coils tested on fully charged Provari. All vapes tested on Nemesis 18350+Kick@9ohms.
-3/4 wrap 32g Kanthal A1 res only. 2x3mm Silica - 2.4ohms
--Above + No Res - 1.7 ohms (ideal beginner setup if experienced with non-res wire)
-3/4 Wrap 30g Kanthal A1 res only. 2x3mm Silica - 1.8ohm (ideal beginner setup without experience in non-res wrapping)
--Above + No Res - ~1.0ohms
-3/4 Wrap 28g Kanthal A1 res only. 2x2mm Silica (had to reduce silica height to compensate for coil density) - 1.4ohms - Broke one cup in process of build, numbers could be off.
-3/4 Wrap 28g Kanthal A1 res only. 3x1mm Silica frays too much after a day's use and begins to gurgle, not suggested.* (see note)
--Above + No Res - Freight Train Status - not recommended or suggested.
-2/3 wrap Kanthal Ribbon (don't recall number, sitting in doctors office, its equal to 30g Kanthal res wise). Struggling… Cup is too small to fit more than 2 clean wraps. Frack this.
- 3/4 wrap random Nichrome build - this stuff is still disgusting, not noting.
Currently under the impression that the best configuration is 30g Kanthal A1 Res Only + 3 x 1mm Silica (or 2x3mm) with a 3/4 wrap. Will let the XC break in and report back.
Serious scalding of various elements in diver base without use of non-resistance wire ONLY when operating in a sub-ohm range (stop it vapors - heat dmg to internal components/orings). Otherwise I see no reason to continue the use of Non-res wire in Diver builds if you understand basic mathematics. (The benefit of no-res at this point is simply to allow the possibility of adding one more wrap to your coil for increased surface area contact between coil and wick without increasing resistance respective to the no-res wire. I don't mind a 3/4 wrap - a 4/5 wrap is a pain in the .... in these cups.) Compensate for the extra length of Kanthal (from coil to brass post is about 2mm) by adjusting the coils on your Diver - Will do maths later).
I suggest for future studies - if using only Kanthal to stay with 30gauge and under minding your wick size as noted above. Smaller diameter Silica performs incredibly well when stacked however maintaining a vertical orientation so that it fits into cup slits while wrapping is very difficult. Gurgling problems clearly due to 1mm Silica being unable to contain enough juice/or too much coil pressure (too tight of a wrap) causing excess juice to flood through 510 (noted that when using 1mm triple stacked there was too much air intake on a non-powered draw, can only imagine the rate of absorption into the atty to be quite high without pressure). This can however, be alleviated by folding one side of the wicks 'upwards' into the cylinder and twisting them in such a way that they cover the air hole in the body of the cylinder (performed with long needle to reorient wicks); only the tips of the wicks should be covering it, it wicks consistently under this load but will not stand to constant chain vaping.
*Last thing of note: when using 28g kanthal in your positive center post, be gentle - its quite easy for the brass pin to cause expansion when press fitted, thus cracking the ceramic and making it impossible to take out… sorry doctor's office, you're making me wait, you can clean up my fracking ceramic shards.)
**Will be working primarily with XC-113 for the next day or two giving results as they come. I have 100ft coming and will be Kiln treating it myself next week. You know the drill,
Holler at your boy - X-ray time.
Recoil Journal -- Diver RBA
Doctor's office - on time - wait time - 1.5 hours - will try for 10 coils without freaking out the nurses. Should be working on Grant proposal; current priority -- coils. All coils tested on fully charged Provari. All vapes tested on Nemesis 18350+Kick@9ohms.
-3/4 wrap 32g Kanthal A1 res only. 2x3mm Silica - 2.4ohms
--Above + No Res - 1.7 ohms (ideal beginner setup if experienced with non-res wire)
-3/4 Wrap 30g Kanthal A1 res only. 2x3mm Silica - 1.8ohm (ideal beginner setup without experience in non-res wrapping)
--Above + No Res - ~1.0ohms
-3/4 Wrap 28g Kanthal A1 res only. 2x2mm Silica (had to reduce silica height to compensate for coil density) - 1.4ohms - Broke one cup in process of build, numbers could be off.
-3/4 Wrap 28g Kanthal A1 res only. 3x1mm Silica frays too much after a day's use and begins to gurgle, not suggested.* (see note)
--Above + No Res - Freight Train Status - not recommended or suggested.
-2/3 wrap Kanthal Ribbon (don't recall number, sitting in doctors office, its equal to 30g Kanthal res wise). Struggling… Cup is too small to fit more than 2 clean wraps. Frack this.
- 3/4 wrap random Nichrome build - this stuff is still disgusting, not noting.
Currently under the impression that the best configuration is 30g Kanthal A1 Res Only + 3 x 1mm Silica (or 2x3mm) with a 3/4 wrap. Will let the XC break in and report back.
Serious scalding of various elements in diver base without use of non-resistance wire ONLY when operating in a sub-ohm range (stop it vapors - heat dmg to internal components/orings). Otherwise I see no reason to continue the use of Non-res wire in Diver builds if you understand basic mathematics. (The benefit of no-res at this point is simply to allow the possibility of adding one more wrap to your coil for increased surface area contact between coil and wick without increasing resistance respective to the no-res wire. I don't mind a 3/4 wrap - a 4/5 wrap is a pain in the .... in these cups.) Compensate for the extra length of Kanthal (from coil to brass post is about 2mm) by adjusting the coils on your Diver - Will do maths later).
I suggest for future studies - if using only Kanthal to stay with 30gauge and under minding your wick size as noted above. Smaller diameter Silica performs incredibly well when stacked however maintaining a vertical orientation so that it fits into cup slits while wrapping is very difficult. Gurgling problems clearly due to 1mm Silica being unable to contain enough juice/or too much coil pressure (too tight of a wrap) causing excess juice to flood through 510 (noted that when using 1mm triple stacked there was too much air intake on a non-powered draw, can only imagine the rate of absorption into the atty to be quite high without pressure). This can however, be alleviated by folding one side of the wicks 'upwards' into the cylinder and twisting them in such a way that they cover the air hole in the body of the cylinder (performed with long needle to reorient wicks); only the tips of the wicks should be covering it, it wicks consistently under this load but will not stand to constant chain vaping.
*Last thing of note: when using 28g kanthal in your positive center post, be gentle - its quite easy for the brass pin to cause expansion when press fitted, thus cracking the ceramic and making it impossible to take out… sorry doctor's office, you're making me wait, you can clean up my fracking ceramic shards.)
**Will be working primarily with XC-113 for the next day or two giving results as they come. I have 100ft coming and will be Kiln treating it myself next week. You know the drill,
Holler at your boy - X-ray time.
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