High wattage vaping

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Christopherja

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I enjoy my MiniPT w/ rebuilt nano-contact coils: 30AWG, 11/10 wrap, 1.2mm @ 1.8Ω

30AWG-11wrap-1.8ohms.jpg

That said, interestingly enough, I prefer to vape @ 6-6.5 watts - anything over and it's harsh. I'm usually using a 60/40 mix, and always w/ cotton wicks.

But, of course, to each their own.
 

John_

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It's all about what atomizer you have. I can vape at 80 watts with no burning at all. You have to consider what atomizer you're using, what coil(s) and wicks you're using and what liquid you're using. All of these things matter, higher VG liquids don't wick well in clearomizers/cartos compared to higher PG liquids. Drippers/gennys can be vaped at "extreme" wattages when built right because they wick relatively well compared to something like a carto or a clearomizer.
 

edyle

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I enjoy my MiniPT w/ rebuilt nano-contact coils: 30AWG, 11/10 wrap, 1.2mm @ 1.8Ω

View attachment 306826

That said, interestingly enough, I prefer to vape @ 6-6.5 watts - anything over and it's harsh. I'm usually using a 60/40 mix, and always w/ cotton wicks.

But, of course, to each their own.

60/40 P/V or 60/40 V/P; im guessing - V/P right?
 

Dampmaskin

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I just imagine a disturbing thought of among the thousands of people casually perusing the ecf board from all over the world, many of them with protanks, and many of those just got their new shiny toy, cranking up to 10 watts on the stock coil of their protanks thinking that's supposed to be pretty normal.

I have to admit I did have a few bad experiences, and lots of attempts at tweaking, before I realized that high wattage vaping is not the norm. I settled for vaping at 3.3 to 3.5 Volts on my 1.8 to 2.2 Ohm BCCs, both stock and rebuilt.

Then I got an RDA...
 

Lastlokean

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Watts do not matter. Its all about wire temp. Read on…

There are a great deal of variables at play. The temperature provided to the wire is about watt density combined with the relative thermal variables (airflow, juice flow, surrounding material, initial temperature, local humidity, wick/coil contact surface area, wick/wire heatsink ability, etc.)

In all reality VV on pre-made devices is way more limiting than a 4.2 volt mechanical in which you fine tune the coil around your preferences, environment and device. I personally vape at ~.9 ohms, single coil with 26 gauge on a non-oxidized ss mesh wick wrapped in cotton on a mechanical device with IMR 18650s. Putting me at 19.6 watts on a fresh cell, my device is smoother, more flavorful and less prone to dry hits than any premade coil I have tried in 3+ years of vaping.

A .9 ohm build at 4.2 volts will always be 19.6 watts. That can be over 4 inches of thick 26 gauge or 1.6 inches of thinner 30 gauge, they will obviously be at the same wattage but not at the same temperature. They will certainly not vape the same. The 30 gauge will be burning death. The 26 gauge will be quite vape-able.

But if you talk 1.8 ohm builds your going to need the 30/32 gauge and the 26 gauge will be worthless even if you could get that big of a coil to fit in a device, the surface temperature will be to low to get a good vape.
 

inanitydefined

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I do not understand how people vape at wattages like 9,11,15, etc.
I use a Evic, protank 2 with 2.2 ohms coils and anything above 6 watts just tastes burnt. My normal vape range in 5-5.5 watts (3.31v-3.47v)...How are you all vaping higher and not burning your juice??

Oh P.S.-Juice I've been using is Mt Baker Vapor 50/50 18 mg

I do not understand how people vape at wattages like 5,6,7 etc.
I use a zmax or mechanical with cotton microcoils and anything below 7 watts just tastes like a waste of time. My normal vape range in 9-20 watts...How are you all vaping lower and getting a satisfying hit??

Oh P.S.-Juice I've been using is DIY, Vaperroo, and Lucky7 in as much vg as I can get and 18 mg

Just showing how different personal tastes can be
 

edyle

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Watts do not matter. Its all about wire temp. Read on…

There are a great deal of variables at play. The temperature provided to the wire is about watt density combined with the relative thermal variables (airflow, juice flow, surrounding material, initial temperature, local humidity, wick/coil contact surface area, wick/wire heatsink ability, etc.)

In all reality VV on pre-made devices is way more limiting than a 4.2 volt mechanical in which you fine tune the coil around your preferences, environment and device. I personally vape at ~.9 ohms, single coil with 26 gauge on a non-oxidized ss mesh wick wrapped in cotton on a mechanical device with IMR 18650s. Putting me at 19.6 watts on a fresh cell, my device is smoother, more flavorful and less prone to dry hits than any premade coil I have tried in 3+ years of vaping.

A .9 ohm build at 4.2 volts will always be 19.6 watts. That can be over 4 inches of thick 26 gauge or 1.6 inches of thinner 30 gauge, they will obviously be at the same wattage but not at the same temperature. They will certainly not vape the same. The 30 gauge will be burning death. The 26 gauge will be quite vape-able.

But if you talk 1.8 ohm builds your going to need the 30/32 gauge and the 26 gauge will be worthless even if you could get that big of a coil to fit in a device, the surface temperature will be to low to get a good vape.

Thank you so much.

That makes much more sense than "sub ohming"; it's really the big coil that's important. "Thick wire coil"; The low ohms is just a mechanical practically of how much thick coil can you fit into a small space.
 

edyle

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I have 1.2 ohm microcoils in my Protank Mini 2's. I vape at 5 volts on the MVP 2 (11 watts is too low), and I vape at 6 volts on my Vamo V5 (15 watts only pushes 4.2v).

I love pushing power through. I never get a burnt taste either.

What gauge is that, and I assume this one is single coil.?
 
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