HIGO RDTA by Focusecig
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Yep. Especially QBs. Hey, young man, superstar QB? Want to end your NFL career in 2-3 years? Go to Cleveland!
Hey, you still can't help but root for them. I was hoping that Johnny Football would work out but he is an idiot. Worst thing is that he may end up with my Cowboys.
Honestly, he could be the right QB for them. He can scramble and throw from like anywhere. But, they don't like his idiot antics, and new coach will undoubtedly send him packing to Dallas if they haven't already. They have never had an offensive line that can offer a QB protection, and none will ever work out until they do.
Bengals were my favorite team when they had Ken Anderson and Isaac Curtis. I rooted for them for more than a decade but had to finally give up on them. At least they are competitive now.
Got my Higo today. First mine is a beater, finish is probably the worse atomizer I've ever received, machining tolerances seem OK, but it looks like a newbie took a dremel to deburr holes and slots. Overall mine is pretty poorly machined. Scratches, gouges, dings, it has it all 
Top fill is the worse I've used, like others mentioned the holes are pretty small, same or very close to the Erlkonigin, and the Gem. Using a glass dropper is doable but difficult, needle tip or syringe would be easiest. Personally the worse aspect of the top filling system of this atomizer is extremely hard to grip short threaded portion which holds it all together. They really need to rethink the top fill and provide a different top cap.
So far I've run 20/80VG with no wicking issues up to 80 watts 3mm .5 ohm 26g. The juice flow control is only useful to those who need to use thin liquids, and then its sort of annoying having to take it apart to even access and use it. I believe I can wick this thing to feed 90+ VG fine, but would need to keep power down 40 or less watts.
I see no reason why the juice flow holes could not be opened up, and will probably do so.
Mine arrived with the positive post/510 loose, once tightened it ends up being recessed a fair bit (same as others mentioned) I've had "check atomizer" errors on my RX200, VTC Mini, IPV4s, which is all I've tried it on. Had to loosen/tighten to get it to recover. I'm assuming the 510 pin is barely making contact, it seemed worse on my RX200.
As for vape experience, it does produce very good flavor. I'm sure a more advanced build will kick it up even more. I do like the airflow system, could use a little more for my preference, but not bad at all. Deck is easy enough to build, Juice wells could be a little larger.
I'm sort of on-the-fence with this atty, it does vape very well. Focusecig really needs to step up QC! I'm pretty displeased with the beat up poorly machined atomizer I received! I take care of my gear, scratches, dings, gouges bug me alot!
I know I'm referring to a $30 atomizer, but Youde, Undulgence, Geekvape, Steamcrave, and countless others have no problem providing me with great fit & finish @ the same price point.
Top fill is the worse I've used, like others mentioned the holes are pretty small, same or very close to the Erlkonigin, and the Gem. Using a glass dropper is doable but difficult, needle tip or syringe would be easiest. Personally the worse aspect of the top filling system of this atomizer is extremely hard to grip short threaded portion which holds it all together. They really need to rethink the top fill and provide a different top cap.
So far I've run 20/80VG with no wicking issues up to 80 watts 3mm .5 ohm 26g. The juice flow control is only useful to those who need to use thin liquids, and then its sort of annoying having to take it apart to even access and use it. I believe I can wick this thing to feed 90+ VG fine, but would need to keep power down 40 or less watts.
I see no reason why the juice flow holes could not be opened up, and will probably do so.
Mine arrived with the positive post/510 loose, once tightened it ends up being recessed a fair bit (same as others mentioned) I've had "check atomizer" errors on my RX200, VTC Mini, IPV4s, which is all I've tried it on. Had to loosen/tighten to get it to recover. I'm assuming the 510 pin is barely making contact, it seemed worse on my RX200.
As for vape experience, it does produce very good flavor. I'm sure a more advanced build will kick it up even more. I do like the airflow system, could use a little more for my preference, but not bad at all. Deck is easy enough to build, Juice wells could be a little larger.
I'm sort of on-the-fence with this atty, it does vape very well. Focusecig really needs to step up QC! I'm pretty displeased with the beat up poorly machined atomizer I received! I take care of my gear, scratches, dings, gouges bug me alot!
I know I'm referring to a $30 atomizer, but Youde, Undulgence, Geekvape, Steamcrave, and countless others have no problem providing me with great fit & finish @ the same price point.
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I'm sorryto hear you got one with poor machining. I'll see what I can do.
Alright, received mine today as well. Only had a chance to build one so far, but it's not been good. First set of coils, basic 2.9 mm 27ga NiFe52 and the post screw sliced the legs like that was it's job. Almost just left it until I could work on the grub screws but decided to go with some 25ga and see how it went. I very slowly tightened the screws down and got it snug without cutting the coil legs. Went to dry fire it and got check atomizer. I'd tightened the 510 too far in that it wasn't making a connection. Loosened it until it worked and the build that should've come in around .12-.13 ended up showing .18. Let that cool down, wicked it, filled it up and had no issues there. Went to test it on the DNA200 Rolo and got the check atomizer message. Backed the 510 out until it started making a connection - the resistance was all over the place and it kept jumping out of TC. After working around on the 510, the best I could get it was to .19 and it wasn't a good vape at all with the TC out of whack.
As far as the fit and finish, threading seems average for the price range. There were a few nicks on the outside and several scrapes on the inside. On the inside of the "chimney" portion that has the juice feed holes, the deburr job was pretty lackluster with several holes having bits of steel left around them. Before putting them in the UC to clean them, there were still metal shavings/dust that could be moved with your finger on the inside of the chimney part. It was some of the dirtiest water I've ever seen from new tanks after the UC bath.
I thought that the juice flow control ring was going to be adjustable externally, but turned out it's a set it and forget it until you pull the deck out again type of ring... I may have missed that detail somewhere, but it wasn't what I was expecting. Also, the post holes are drilled further down than needed, which helps the grub screw cut the coil legs.
So far, it's a bit disappointing... I'm going to see if putting an oring in the 510 assembly will help with the connectivity issue. If so, that'll at least be something.
As far as the fit and finish, threading seems average for the price range. There were a few nicks on the outside and several scrapes on the inside. On the inside of the "chimney" portion that has the juice feed holes, the deburr job was pretty lackluster with several holes having bits of steel left around them. Before putting them in the UC to clean them, there were still metal shavings/dust that could be moved with your finger on the inside of the chimney part. It was some of the dirtiest water I've ever seen from new tanks after the UC bath.
I thought that the juice flow control ring was going to be adjustable externally, but turned out it's a set it and forget it until you pull the deck out again type of ring... I may have missed that detail somewhere, but it wasn't what I was expecting. Also, the post holes are drilled further down than needed, which helps the grub screw cut the coil legs.
So far, it's a bit disappointing... I'm going to see if putting an oring in the 510 assembly will help with the connectivity issue. If so, that'll at least be something.
Sounds pretty much Identical to what my experience has been. I did try TC build, but gave up due to the reasons you've stated. Going to pull it apart later today, see if I have anything that may work as a longer replacement for the 510 center pin.
Can't really use it on my RX200, keeps losing conductivity, and I can't back the 510 out any further, pretty sure I'll be able to get it solid, but it is a bit annoying they couldn't get the 510 pin right.
One of the testers had trouble with the 510 on a tc build after a few days. He put a 2 x 1.5 o ring over the insulator. That extended it and stabilized it.
I have let them know about the 510 since day one when I saw it. Mine has been stable since I tightened it. However, based on one tester having a problem after 5 days, I'm not feeling confident its going to stay stable.
I emailed with them again last night about it. I'm trying to get them to use a rigid insulator and an extended pin.
If there's any way I can get new ones for you guys I will.
I initially was going to do a tc build with SS Claptons, but I had wonky resistance readings and thought it was me, and that I messed up, not having done SS claptons before. I ripped it out and that's when I discovered my pin was loose. So I went with a build I have in several attys then so I knew what to expect.
I have let them know about the 510 since day one when I saw it. Mine has been stable since I tightened it. However, based on one tester having a problem after 5 days, I'm not feeling confident its going to stay stable.
I emailed with them again last night about it. I'm trying to get them to use a rigid insulator and an extended pin.
If there's any way I can get new ones for you guys I will.
I initially was going to do a tc build with SS Claptons, but I had wonky resistance readings and thought it was me, and that I messed up, not having done SS claptons before. I ripped it out and that's when I discovered my pin was loose. So I went with a build I have in several attys then so I knew what to expect.
Well, I'm pretty upset that they let this poor machining go out to customers 
CNY or not, this is inexcusable. I know that first batch went to GB, and mine is probably from that batch, but GB doesn't exactly have a good reputation. Most US customers probably bought from VaporDNA, and so far it sounds like that batch is pretty crappy.
I'm going to continue reporting the issues. And if there's anything I can do to help those of you who got bad attys, I will.
And I guess at this time I'm not comfortable recommending it. I'm very disappointed as I have several of their attys, and machining has never been an issue before. Bad plan to let the QC go to hell now
CNY or not, this is inexcusable. I know that first batch went to GB, and mine is probably from that batch, but GB doesn't exactly have a good reputation. Most US customers probably bought from VaporDNA, and so far it sounds like that batch is pretty crappy.I'm going to continue reporting the issues. And if there's anything I can do to help those of you who got bad attys, I will.
And I guess at this time I'm not comfortable recommending it. I'm very disappointed as I have several of their attys, and machining has never been an issue before. Bad plan to let the QC go to hell now
Not your fault roxy. I recommended it too because mine has no issues at all.
That equates to poor qc nothing more.
I had extremely high hopes for this atty, and know what it's capable of. However, poor qc will sink the ship when there is this much solid competition in the RTA world.
That equates to poor qc nothing more.
I had extremely high hopes for this atty, and know what it's capable of. However, poor qc will sink the ship when there is this much solid competition in the RTA world.
I think I'm going to call VaporDNA as well, and let them know I've been testing for Focusecig for a few months, and ask them to check over their stock. They ought to send back any that aren't up to par. I would like to stop bad ones from going to customers. And if its the whole batch, maybe they should pull it from their site.
I'm glad to see some are able to get 80+VG wicking. I rewicked mine with dry cotton just to see how long it would take to saturate the cotton on its own. Been about a day and a half and about 1/2 the cotton tails are wet. Not sure if it's due to wicking or if it's from residual juice in the well.
As far as burrs and stuff, mine didn't have any I could see. But the sleeve with the logo on it is not machined very will, a lot of big streaks on it and the drip tip. Not a huge deal to me, but it's there, and I was hoping it was just because it was a tester model.
Also, make sure you guys clean this very well. I let mine soak for a good while and noticed white stuff coming out of it. Seemed to be coming from the bottom airflow holes. I recently found more buried deep in the airflow holes and it looks waxy-like. Just be sure you're not inhaling that, not sure what it was machined with, but it was something I had never seen before in my RTAs.
As far as burrs and stuff, mine didn't have any I could see. But the sleeve with the logo on it is not machined very will, a lot of big streaks on it and the drip tip. Not a huge deal to me, but it's there, and I was hoping it was just because it was a tester model.
Also, make sure you guys clean this very well. I let mine soak for a good while and noticed white stuff coming out of it. Seemed to be coming from the bottom airflow holes. I recently found more buried deep in the airflow holes and it looks waxy-like. Just be sure you're not inhaling that, not sure what it was machined with, but it was something I had never seen before in my RTAs.
Mine was also very clean. I do disassemble all attys on arrival, thoroughly soak and scrub them, but my HIGO was among the cleaner attys I've gotten.
Yeah, mine that I got for testing was pretty good looking, the 510 is pretty far recessed, but it seems stable and also matches what my coilmaster says the ohms should be. My only issue was the wicking of thicker juice. I've done some Dremel work, and a few other things, and this thing is a flavor Bomb to say the least. it's got a ton of potential, I hope it doesn't all get wasted because it was rushed out the door. If they make it right with those who purchased, and stop any other defective ones from going out, they may be able to make some revisions, and it could really be good.
I added the small o-ring to the 510, putting it under the silicone ring/collar that was already there. It firmed up the 510 enough to get a stable connection. It's coming in at .14 on the DNA200 and .13 on the RX200, which is similar to other tanks. When I first started vaping, it seemed to do okay, I'd get bubbles after a pull, but then it seemed to stop. It wasn't quite dry hitting, but you could tell it wasn't feeding enough juice. I pulled the base off and tried to move the rayon away from the feed holes a bit to see if that would help feed it more. It seemed to help a little, but not as much as I was hoping for. It's a DIY 30/70vg menthol and when I pulled the deck out and looked at the bottom of the chimney, there was juice in all the holes like it should be feeding. Seems strange that the bottom green o-ring sits on top of the holes, basically blocking them by about 1/2. Also, the juice control ring - has anyone tried without that installed? Think I'll pull that out and see if it helps or floods...
I've tried removing the JC ring, and it didn't solve my problem with it not wicking (90VG juice.)
So far, the only thing that has worked consistently is to leave the topfill open, as it floods my wicks. It's not ideal, I certainly wouldn't willingly do it (happened to me a few times by accidentally knocking the topfill wheel open, as mine is very loose) but it's a semi-solution to those that actually paid for this (I wouldn't bother, as mine is a tester unit...if I had actually paid for it, I may consider it a "solution" for me.)
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