How are your 510 threads?

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ah64ace

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I've had a VAMO V5 since Christmas and the 510 threads are now wearing out. I have mostly used a Protank and protank 2 with the V5 and have had good luck up until now. I don't want to go through this again every three months so I am Serious considering the Provari because it's supposed to have better materials in the machining.

Have any of you who have had Provaris for a while had any issues with the 510 threads?

What does Provapes warranty cover? I am going to get the extended warranty when I bite the bullet.
 

The Ocelot

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I've never had a problem with the 510 connection. I hadn't had my first ProVari for a week when it slipped under a pillow on the couch. Both I and my 70 pound dog fell asleep on it. When I found it the next morning the carto tank was bent at about a 70 degree angle. The carto was toast, but the ProVari was just fine. I know my Vamo wouldn't have survived. I have also dropped it and bent a protank connector pin - again nothing wrong with the ProVari.

Many of us don't buy the extended warranty, since if something goes wrong it tends to be in the fist month or so. And once it's out of warranty, the repair costs are quite inexpensive.
 

JeremyR

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Ahh yes, anything with a plated brass 510 will strip. I went through 2 in 2 months using a stainless oddy clone. The sigelei zmax is solid stainless. I've dropped it so many times and even from the second floor balcony onto hard wood with the 2 lb oddy and the threads are still like new 6 months later!

Edit - oops sorry I see this is in the provape forum. But stainless is the way to go, its almost indestructible, so is the stainless oddy clone.
 
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Riverboat

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I've had a VAMO V5 since Christmas and the 510 threads are now wearing out. I have mostly used a Protank and protank 2 with the V5 and have had good luck up until now. I don't want to go through this again every three months so I am Serious considering the Provari because it's supposed to have better materials in the machining.

Have any of you who have had Provaris for a while had any issues with the 510 threads?

What does Provapes warranty cover? I am going to get the extended warranty when I bite the bullet.
I have a friend who had a China made mod like yourself, same issue, stripped 510 threads.. Since I bought my ZNA he asked me sell me your Provari...Yea Right, that will never happen.... I said "buy your own Provari like I told you from the beginning".! I used one exclusively with HH357 atomizers , I took the atty on and off several times everyday to blow it clear....18 months later the 510 threads were as solid as the first day I received my Proavari. Quality Stainless Steel 510 threads are almost impossible to strip....
 
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ah64ace

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I appreciate all of the great input. Even if the threads do strip out, it's onlt $15 to get the top cap replaced. (I assume that's the part with the treads). Looks like I will be coming on board. Just need to decide which color? Leaning towards the polished stainless look. Wraps are always an option later on down the road but that is like flying team flags in the windows of your Rolls Royce, right?
 

Riverboat

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I appreciate all of the great input. Even if the threads do strip out, it's onlt $15 to get the top cap replaced. (I assume that's the part with the treads). Looks like I will be coming on board. Just need to decide which color? Leaning towards the polished stainless look.

They wont strip... Just so you know I had a Polished Proavri for a couple of days before I sold it. It was a fingerprint smear magnet..Also it will show micro scratches rather quickly as all Polished Stainless items do.. If that doesn't bother you then by all means buy it.
As far as the colors go...the ceramic coating can chip... A ZenKoted Proavri would be the way to go for colors, but at this point Proavpe only offers the Gold Zenkote... Satin Stainless is the toughest finish...no prints-no micro scratches.....
 

ah64ace

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After I made that post and did some "what-if" thinking, I came up with the same idea about the fingerprints and scratches. You have confirmed my thoughts. It seems the gold finish would do the same as far as fingerprints are concerned. None of the painted looks appeal to me, so it looks like the silver is the way I will go. By the way, did I tell you I was putting Gamecock flags on my Rolls tomorrow?
 

tearose50

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Good choice.....in the mod! And, with the availability of skins, one can change their look whenever desired.

On the original question -- My almost 3 year old satin Provari barely shows any wear on the body after much use and abuse and the threads are perfectly fine. It has not needed a trip to the Maytag (aka Provape) repair man.

I've had it skinned for a couple years now and recommend skins not only for the looks -- the carbon fibre has a nice light texture to it and any barrier helps defer the feel of hard cold steel. That's especially nice in the winter. The smooth ones are nice too. :2c:
 

VapieDan

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I've had a VAMO V5 since Christmas and the 510 threads are now wearing out. I have mostly used a Protank and protank 2 with the V5 and have had good luck up until now. I don't want to go through this again every three months so I am Serious considering the Provari because it's supposed to have better materials in the machining.

Have any of you who have had Provaris for a while had any issues with the 510 threads?

What does Provapes warranty cover? I am going to get the extended warranty when I bite the bullet.

I have heard of no other consistent early issues with any brand other than Vamo. Do not know why. They must use a soft metal in the connector. You don't have to spend $200 to get decent connectors.
 

The Ocelot

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After I made that post and did some "what-if" thinking, I came up with the same idea about the fingerprints and scratches. You have confirmed my thoughts. It seems the gold finish would do the same as far as fingerprints are concerned. None of the painted looks appeal to me, so it looks like the silver is the way I will go. By the way, did I tell you I was putting Gamecock flags on my Rolls tomorrow?

I had a polished stainless and while I found it was a fingerprint magnet (some people don't, by the way), my issue was that the thing was blindingly shiny! It had a red LED and I could hardly look at the screen without feeling I was doing some damage to my retina; but that's just me, many people love them. They are very pretty. One nice thing about the polished is that if it gets any scratches they can be buffed out. There's a sticky at the top of this forum on how to care for the finish.

This is just my run down, others my disagree.

They all show wear after time.

Satin silver: media blasted stainless steel. It shows less wear than any of the other finishes. Even if it gets scratched, it hard to tell unless held up to a light. It also goes with also any tank you put on it. If you're into gold toppers, my suggestion is bronze.

The colored ones: ProVape uses Cerakote (the same coating used on gun parts) and although it's very durable, it's still a coating. I've seen some that look quite worn and others of the same age that look pristine. Still, they are very cool and (at least to me) the ones that show significant wear seem to be more an exception, than the rule. Besides, you will probably buy a second one fairly soon (don't try to fight it, you are powerless), so when using them in rotation each will show less wear. You can get blood splattered carto tanks to match the Zombie and probably the hybrids.

LED:
Red - the brightest. Some say it is the easiest to see outside, but I had after images when looking at it; however, this was with the polished one, which combined the with shine was like staring into the sun. It is a nice color red though and goes with all of the colors. It looks especially nice on the Zombies and probably will on the hybrids.
Green - the second brightest. It's more of a yellow/lime green, than a dark green. I have it on a bronze and a black, both look terrific. It is also a good choice for a Zombie.
Blue - still bright, but the least bright of the colors. I've heard some people say it can be hard to read in very bright sunlight, but I haven't had that problem. It's a very pretty shade of sort of electric blue. It's my favorite for my satin slivers (which are my favorite anyway) and also my blacks. Personally, I don't think it would look good on a Zombie, but that's just my opinion.

Wraps - excellent option for if/when the body starts to show wear. Some people wrap their ProVari from the beginning to protect them them, but I kind of wonder why one would buy a color in the first place if they were planning on wrapping it. For added protection, mobility and because the leather feels nice in my hand, I use Serenity Gear. I have all of mine in flexi-sleeves 24/7. Tim doesn't take custom orders at this time, but his inventory changes frequently and you have to just keep checking his site to see what he has up. Warning: buying them can become addictive and, at least as in my case, you may find yourself contemplating more ProVarii to put in the sleeves you just bought.

SerenityGear Leather - Home

That's my story and I'm sticking to it.


ETA: Regarding the stripped Vamo - while 510 to eGo adaptors are everywhere, I know of only one vendors who sells an eGo to 510. It screws onto the eGo threads, allowing you to screw your toppers into the 510 connection. With the 510 connection problem many of the Chinese mods have, I don't know why more vendors don't carry them. http://www.ljesmokes.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=84_60&products_id=2104
 
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Train2

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No - it IS an Ego to 510!
OMG, that there is a
UnicornRare2.jpg





The link is to an ego to ego connection Ocelot. :ohmy:

And, yes, it is pretty rare I do believe, and sold out. :laugh: Isn't that so so common with the more unique items!
 

The Ocelot

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The link is to an ego to ego connection Ocelot. :ohmy:

And, yes, it is pretty rare I do believe, and sold out. :laugh: Isn't that so so common with the more unique items!

It's just worded weirdly. They call it "eGo to eGo 510," but there's no such thing as an "eGo 510." Look closely at the design. It has an eGo bottom and a 510 and an eGo threaded top.

egolatest.jpg


EGOnewThreadAdapter.jpg
EGOnewThreadAdapter1.jpg
 
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