Pulse rate of 60 amps. Translate that to I can fire the coils to prove they work and then INSTALL A PROPER BATTERY.
How did I short my VTC5's?
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Personally I would amend this to ANY coils. It doesn't matter if you have built the exact same coil 1000000 times. You have no idea if there is a metallurgical flaw in the wire. Or any of the other plethora of things that could cause a short somewhere that you can't see without x-ray vision.
Alright so after reading these posts I wasn't going to comment and just let the thread die, but I'll swallow my pride and admit that I was being an idiot. I'm done with my mechanical for a little while because I'm out $30 from the batteries. In a few weeks I'm going to buy a decent atty (the Nimbus and Igo-L aren't cutting it) as well as more batteries and a resistance checker. For now, I'll just stick with my iTaste and Protank Mini 3. Thanks for the help everybody, I appreciate it (even if some of the replies were kinda mean)
And in doing so have earned much respect.
Once you've got a decent meter and read and ingested some of baditude's work, I think you'll find that you approach your mech and builds in a much different way. Which in the end will (as odd as it sounds) give you a much nicer and better vape!
Alright so after reading these posts I wasn't going to comment and just let the thread die, but I'll swallow my pride and admit that I was being an idiot. I'm done with my mechanical for a little while because I'm out $30 from the batteries. In a few weeks I'm going to buy a decent atty (the Nimbus and Igo-L aren't cutting it) as well as more batteries and a resistance checker. For now, I'll just stick with my iTaste and Protank Mini 3. Thanks for the help everybody, I appreciate it (even if some of the replies were kinda mean
Great decision, even if it may not seem like it, your safety is our number one priority. We don't want anybody to become a statistic.
Alright so after reading these posts I wasn't going to comment and just let the thread die, but I'll swallow my pride and admit that I was being an idiot. I'm done with my mechanical for a little while because I'm out $30 from the batteries. In a few weeks I'm going to buy a decent atty (the Nimbus and Igo-L aren't cutting it) as well as more batteries and a resistance checker. For now, I'll just stick with my iTaste and Protank Mini 3. Thanks for the help everybody, I appreciate it (even if some of the replies were kinda mean
I think some could have been worded differently, but they were never meant to make you feel like an idiot. They were just trying to help save you from a potential catastrophe. I mean, it truly is a miracle that not one of those batteries vented or anything worse.
We're just trying to avoid negative media attention, which people like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GUkqIWtOf-4 and this: Mod explodes at Vapeblast 2.0 cloud chasing competition are bringing upon us; and we want all of our members to be safe.
There are always things to learn, and remember, everyone on this forum had to learn exactly what you just learned or will learn it soon. Learn.
Side Note: Learn is one of those words that becomes weird after you say it so many times. Kind of like couch... Or ointment.
Good for you.Alright so after reading these posts I wasn't going to comment and just let the thread die, but I'll swallow my pride and admit that I was being an idiot. I'm done with my mechanical for a little while because I'm out $30 from the batteries. In a few weeks I'm going to buy a decent atty (the Nimbus and Igo-L aren't cutting it) as well as more batteries and a resistance checker. For now, I'll just stick with my iTaste and Protank Mini 3. Thanks for the help everybody, I appreciate it (even if some of the replies were kinda mean
I appologize if I came across as mean, but as others have pointed out we get frustrated too sometimes in trying to help others from getting their hand blown off or teeth knocked out from an exploding battery. It can happen. 
The battery from my first mechanical modI only had my first mech for about two weeks over two years ago when the battery in it exploded. This experience was my motivation to learn about battery safety and mod safety and the result was sharing this information learned in my blogs that many members link to now. I'm not an electronics or physics specialist, just another John Doe Vaper. I'm a veteran vaper and I'm STILL LEARNING. Many of us are "paying it forward" to help others like others helped us in the beginning.
E-Cigarette Forum - Baditude - Blogs
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Alright so figured I would post a bit of an update. I recently bought a resistance checker and a Patriot clone, although the resistance checker arrived at my house DOA and won't provide a reading. I emailed the site I bought it from and now all I have to do is ship it back and they'll send me out a new one. The build in my Patriot is a .5 (used my friend's meter) and I'm pretty satisfied with it. I'm being all safe now 
Trustfire... Trust that they will cause a fire in whatever you use them in.Good for you.
View attachment 366630 The battery from my first mechanical mod
I only had my first mech for about two weeks over two years ago when the battery in it exploded. This experience was my motivation to learn about battery safety and mod safety and the result was sharing this information learned in my blogs that many members link to now. I'm not an electronics or physics specialist, just another John Doe Vaper. I'm a veteran vaper and I'm STILL LEARNING. Many of us are "paying it forward" to help others like others helped us in the beginning.
E-Cigarette Forum - Baditude - Blogs
Trustfire... Trust that they will cause a fire in whatever you use them in.
Ironic, that is the battery that was recommended 2 year ago. Everyone said you had to use protected batteries in mods. Using an unprotected IMR was considered not safe.
What a long way we have come in just two years time when IMR batteries are recommended and ICR batteries are considered obsolete in mods.
Rickajho said:
This is what I have a problem with. Pulse ratings are BS.
Continuous Discharge Ratings vs Pulse (Burst) Discharge Ratings
The "continuous discharge rating" in amps is the standard specification for amp limits within the battery industry. It is a determination made by the manufacturer and represents the amp limit a battery can be safely used before it will fail.
The "pulse or burst" discharge rating is not a specification standard within the battery industry. Every manufacturer or vendor has their own definition of what the pulse rating is. It is always an arbitrary number and in effect it is meaningless. It gives a teenage false sense of security to those who believe, "It will never happen to me."
A pulse discharge rating is any use above the continuous discharge rating. It is never safe and not within the intended operating parameters of the battery. You should not operate your device above the continuous rating if you can help it. The pulse rating is a condition in which the battery is on basically a buildup to failure. It is exceeding the sustainable and intended discharge rate of the battery. It is inappropriate for a consumer device to operate in the pulse range of its battery.
Which would be why we shouldn't rely on any pulse rating. Any failure, mechanical or electronic, that fires the mod will operate in the 'continuous' mode. If your setup relies on a pulse rating, it's instantly over spec.
If your amp draw is safely in the continuous discharge range, your coil could act almost like a fuse and burn out before the battery is stressed...if you are lucky. If you are already running the battery at the edge of it's limits (pulse), there is no margin of safety. Game over.
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You were doing a lot of things wrong. You were abusing your batteries above spec. You were using a defective mechanical mod. You weren't using a meter to measure your coils, but guessing at what your coil resistance was. You were using an advanced setup that you weren't ready to use safely. You were a disaster waiting to happen.
And you wonder why it seemed like some people were being mean to you.
Rant over.
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Bad, I've been thinking. Is there a reliable test that a user can do with minimal equipment to test the continuous discharge rate of a battery?This is what I have a problem with. Pulse ratings are BS.
Continuous Discharge Ratings vs Pulse (Burst) Discharge Ratings
The "continuous discharge rating" in amps is the standard specification for amp limits within the battery industry. It is a determination made by the manufacturer and represents the amp limit a battery can be safely used before it will fail.
The "pulse or burst" discharge rating is not a specification standard within the battery industry. Every manufacturer or vendor has their own definition of what the pulse rating is. It is always an arbitrary number and in effect it is meaningless. It gives a teenage false sense of security to those who believe, "It will never happen to me."
A pulse discharge rating is any use above the continuous discharge rating. It is never safe and not within the intended operating parameters of the battery. You should not operate your device above the continuous rating if you can help it. The pulse rating is a condition in which the battery is on basically a buildup to failure. It is exceeding the sustainable and intended discharge rate of the battery. It is inappropriate for a consumer device to operate in the pulse range of its battery.
Which would be why we shouldn't rely on any pulse rating. Any failure, mechanical or electronic, that fires the mod will operate in the 'continuous' mode. If your setup relies on a pulse rating, it's instantly over spec.
If your amp draw is safely in the continuous discharge range, your coil could act almost like a fuse and burn out before the battery is stressed...if you are lucky. If you are already running the battery at the edge of it's limits (pulse), there is no margin of safety. Game over.
________________________
You were doing a lot of things wrong. You were abusing your batteries above spec. You were using a defective mechanical mod. You weren't using a meter to measure your coils, but guessing at what your coil resistance was. You were using an advanced setup that you weren't ready to use safely. You were a disaster waiting to happen.
And you wonder why it seemed like some people were being mean to you.
Rant over.
BTW, your pm box is full, I still have some battery questions to send your way. Is email better?
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None that I know of. I research the internet for the specifications, and if someone has done some independent testing (usually flashlight forum enthusiasts, or Dampfakkus) I go by their findings. I typically will use the most conservative rating if there are some discrepancies.
Sorry about the PM box, I get a lot of PM's. Cleaned some space for you.
If you are still using the k100 I would suggest cleaning it again. I clean mine every time I put a new build in, and I clean the contacts (quickly) every time that I change a battery. I use toothpaste and an old tooth brush and then rubbing alcohol. you need to make sure you get all of the threads really clean! you will like the performance boost from clean threads as well!
Oh you, dont forget to use the locking ring when it goes in your pocket!
Oh you, dont forget to use the locking ring when it goes in your pocket!
I've seen a lot of reports similar to this one and it always involves a k100, I believe that there is something wrong with this mod particular design but I can't know for sure as I don't have one
It's a very cheap mod (less than $30) made with subpar quality of materials, workmanship, and design. You get what you pay for. I personally would not own or use one.
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my gp paps clone costs $13 dollars and it is perfect in every sense, best switch I've tried on clones and originals.
but the k100 is one of those old-school cheap chinese clones before they got up to the game
I used to use one before I got my copper nemmy. Held up well and vaped well. Only stopped as a wanted a copper mod.
As for pulse numbers are BS I disagree. I could not care less about continuous numbers. Im not holding my vape button for an hour, im doing 5 seconds. I only vape in the pulse rating and have never vented a battery. Perfectly safe if, key word there, you are pulsing it. Use your lock ring and clean your mod.
Op, you probably got a short. Take it all apart and clean it. Putting battery after battery in it is kind of stupid, but you know that now and I dont want to pile on.
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I got my new resistance checker in the mail today, so I promptly put a new build in the Stillare clone that originally fried my batteries to see if the RDA itself was bad. It ohms out to a solid .23 ohms and doesn't fluctuate or anything. Does this mean it's safe to go ahead and use again? I really don't want to buy new VTC5's again if it's broken.
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