How do you check battery amps?
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What I think the OP was trying to ask is how to find out what amperage is a particular battery is capable of. I'd be interested in the answer myself.
look up the data sheet on the battery I guess. find out the make and model, then use google.
So what does the C rating on a lipo mean? For starters, the C in C Rating stands for capacity. To break it down to its simplest terms, the C rating is the maximum safe continuous discharge rate of a pack. If you see 10C on your battery, it means it can be discharged at 10 times that pack's capacity. Capacity refers to the milliamp-hour rating of the battery, which will be listed as a number followed by mAh (2000mAh, for example).
Here's the easy way to find your battery's discharge rate just multiply the number from the C rating by the pack's capacity. Keep in mind that 1000 milliamps equals one amp. Here's an example, using an 11.1V 2000mAh 10C
11.1 volt 2000mAh -10C
2000 milliamps = 2 amps
2 Amps x 10 = 20 amps continuous discharge
This means that you can safely draw up to 20 amps continuously from that 11.1V 2000mAh 10C without doing damage to your battery. Our packs have all the discharge information printed right on the label. You can check out one of our labels right here. We hope this helps clarify the most misunderstood aspect of electric flight.
This is from a RC plane forum. If you want to learn about batteries lurk around RC hobbyist forums or flashlight forums.
Here's the easy way to find your battery's discharge rate just multiply the number from the C rating by the pack's capacity. Keep in mind that 1000 milliamps equals one amp. Here's an example, using an 11.1V 2000mAh 10C
11.1 volt 2000mAh -10C
2000 milliamps = 2 amps
2 Amps x 10 = 20 amps continuous discharge
This means that you can safely draw up to 20 amps continuously from that 11.1V 2000mAh 10C without doing damage to your battery. Our packs have all the discharge information printed right on the label. You can check out one of our labels right here. We hope this helps clarify the most misunderstood aspect of electric flight.
This is from a RC plane forum. If you want to learn about batteries lurk around RC hobbyist forums or flashlight forums.
some more info
C Rating, Amps limits, and all the info on current you'll need....
This isn't a new topic, but to a lot of the newer folks and users it will be. Every battery has three ratings, nominal voltage (in the case of lithium cobalt and lithium manganese 3.7v), milliamp hour (mah or milliamps per hour), and c rating. The first two most people are somewhat familiar with, the last most aren't. Every pv with an integrated controller (which covers every vaporizer V4L sells except the OMG All Day) also has it's own built in amperage limit. This limit is separate from the battery or cell used inside the pv, and usually lower than the maximum output of the battery or cell used in the pv itself.
There is a heavily used saying that it's not the voltage that kills you, but the amperage. This proves true with batteries, especially lithium based ones. I have never heard of any catastrophic failure from a battery running in usable voltage range (as in 4.2v-3.2v) failing from a .1 amp current draw on it. 3+ amps though is a completely different story. This where the C rating and amp limits of the battery/pv come into play.
C rating- This is the maximum sustained (not burst) output of a battery. It requires only knowing the mah rating of the battery and it's value to calculate. Will give you an example using a few different batteries-
Batt A- 1600mah, 15C= 24 amps
Batt B- 2800mah, 2C= 5.6 amps
Batt C- 3100mah, 2C= 6.2 amps
On protected lithium batts there is a built in protection circuit that shuts the battery down (if working properly) if you try to go over that limit. With unprotected batts there is nothing to stop them on the physical level of the battery itself from going over that amperage limit, which can lead to cell failure. This is why you should never use an unprotected cell inside a pv that doesn't have it's own built layers of protection. Will use two mods V4L sells as an example- The OMG All Day has no built in controller, only a hot spring to help prevent battery failure. This mod should only use protected cells. The OMG Handle on the other hand has thermal shut off, amp limit, short circuit protection, and reverse battery detection. This mod can use unprotected batts because of these layers. Never use a lithium cobalt unprotected cell though, there is a reason these ship with a protection circuit. Use the "safe" chemistry lithium manganese cells only if you're going unprotected (high drain cells). These batteries have high sustained amperage limits for the 18650 size ranging from 10a-30a, far above that of lithium cobalt.
Amperage limit- Have already brushed on this, now to explain it. Every electronic device has an amperage limit. The outlets in your house, the batteries you use, the USB port on your computer, USB adapter, think you get the point. This dictates how high of a current you can run. This limit works in conjunction with the cell's amp limit on pv's. It's lower than the actual maximum output on the batteries themselves. The OMG Handle is a good example of this. The battery that ships with it is rated for 5.6a maximum output, the unit itself has a 4 amp range limit (3.5-4a, with most being around 3.7-3.8a). This is done so you don't push the battery to it's maximum output. Even if you put a battery rated for 24 amps in it, it won't change what the amp limit of the pv itself.
So how does this affect the vaper? Dual coil cartomizers require a lot of amperage to run, especially the 1.5ohm rated variety. This is why even with the handle you can't push them to 6v if you set it to that. It will supply it the maximum voltage it can within it's amp limit. With passthroughs it's not the pt that controls the power, but the source of power itself. To run a 1.5ohmdc at 5v (that's voltage standard on USB ports, which is why it runs at 5v) you need at least 3.33a of power (this has already been technical enough without me delving into all the aspects of DC cartos). There is no USB adapter on the market from anyone I've seen rated for that kind of output currently. This is why people are having issues using the 1.5ohm DC cartos on the pt.
C Rating, Amps limits, and all the info on current you'll need....
This isn't a new topic, but to a lot of the newer folks and users it will be. Every battery has three ratings, nominal voltage (in the case of lithium cobalt and lithium manganese 3.7v), milliamp hour (mah or milliamps per hour), and c rating. The first two most people are somewhat familiar with, the last most aren't. Every pv with an integrated controller (which covers every vaporizer V4L sells except the OMG All Day) also has it's own built in amperage limit. This limit is separate from the battery or cell used inside the pv, and usually lower than the maximum output of the battery or cell used in the pv itself.
There is a heavily used saying that it's not the voltage that kills you, but the amperage. This proves true with batteries, especially lithium based ones. I have never heard of any catastrophic failure from a battery running in usable voltage range (as in 4.2v-3.2v) failing from a .1 amp current draw on it. 3+ amps though is a completely different story. This where the C rating and amp limits of the battery/pv come into play.
C rating- This is the maximum sustained (not burst) output of a battery. It requires only knowing the mah rating of the battery and it's value to calculate. Will give you an example using a few different batteries-
Batt A- 1600mah, 15C= 24 amps
Batt B- 2800mah, 2C= 5.6 amps
Batt C- 3100mah, 2C= 6.2 amps
On protected lithium batts there is a built in protection circuit that shuts the battery down (if working properly) if you try to go over that limit. With unprotected batts there is nothing to stop them on the physical level of the battery itself from going over that amperage limit, which can lead to cell failure. This is why you should never use an unprotected cell inside a pv that doesn't have it's own built layers of protection. Will use two mods V4L sells as an example- The OMG All Day has no built in controller, only a hot spring to help prevent battery failure. This mod should only use protected cells. The OMG Handle on the other hand has thermal shut off, amp limit, short circuit protection, and reverse battery detection. This mod can use unprotected batts because of these layers. Never use a lithium cobalt unprotected cell though, there is a reason these ship with a protection circuit. Use the "safe" chemistry lithium manganese cells only if you're going unprotected (high drain cells). These batteries have high sustained amperage limits for the 18650 size ranging from 10a-30a, far above that of lithium cobalt.
Amperage limit- Have already brushed on this, now to explain it. Every electronic device has an amperage limit. The outlets in your house, the batteries you use, the USB port on your computer, USB adapter, think you get the point. This dictates how high of a current you can run. This limit works in conjunction with the cell's amp limit on pv's. It's lower than the actual maximum output on the batteries themselves. The OMG Handle is a good example of this. The battery that ships with it is rated for 5.6a maximum output, the unit itself has a 4 amp range limit (3.5-4a, with most being around 3.7-3.8a). This is done so you don't push the battery to it's maximum output. Even if you put a battery rated for 24 amps in it, it won't change what the amp limit of the pv itself.
So how does this affect the vaper? Dual coil cartomizers require a lot of amperage to run, especially the 1.5ohm rated variety. This is why even with the handle you can't push them to 6v if you set it to that. It will supply it the maximum voltage it can within it's amp limit. With passthroughs it's not the pt that controls the power, but the source of power itself. To run a 1.5ohmdc at 5v (that's voltage standard on USB ports, which is why it runs at 5v) you need at least 3.33a of power (this has already been technical enough without me delving into all the aspects of DC cartos). There is no USB adapter on the market from anyone I've seen rated for that kind of output currently. This is why people are having issues using the 1.5ohm DC cartos on the pt.
If you simply want to know how many amps your coil draws from you battery click here, enter the resistance of your atomizer and the voltage of your battery and press on calculate. You can see the amps in the "Current (I)" field.
that will just tell you how much current your system will draw, not the capabilities of the battery. if you system will draw 10amps and your battery can only sustain 5 amps, you are screwed.
agreed as mechanical and rbas grow in popularity people should really try to get a grasp on this stuff. You dont have to be a expert but a little knowledge can go along way to prevent some bad issues.
I know some wont. Same as the guy whipping around 90ml an hour on the freeway in traffic. Some people are just self absorbed idiots who are incapable of thinking about what could go wrong.
Then instead if telling them they are idiots and earned their injury's with stupidity we reward them with money from a law suit and make regulation to burden the rest of us.
just the lack of interest in this thread says allot. Lanyards, does anyone actually use them? has 10x the interest as a use your battery safely thread.
I tip my hat to the OP for taking a interest in the equipment you are using
WOW =] Thanks buzzzlove for all your help! I really wanted to make sure I was taking the right steps in my sub ohm set ups. The "kids" at my local B&M have no idea with what they are talking about. I say kids but they are only about 2 years younger than me.. They do free builds if you buy an RBA or a mech mod from them but no where is it posted they they should be using these out there own risk or do they explain how to use them properly. Example... new customer walks in because they want to try vaping and the kid behind the counter is blowing huge amouts of vapor. The person walks up and says I want that! Kid points out the k100 mod in the case along with a cheap RBA and says you get a free build if you buy this. The customer has no idea that they are talking about but says ok sure and buys what ever they say to buy. I have watched them build coils there without even testing them or explaining anything to the customer. It just makes me mad because all we need is for people to start blowing there faces off so people really start to believe that vaping is worse than smoking... I can see it now, big tobacco showing an add about how their products kill you slower because they dont blow up in your face. Any way my rant is over =] but again thanks for all the info now I can take one more step to insure that my set ups are "safe"
I only checked this thread to make sure someone caught that. I'm glad it was on the first page. Quoting just to add emphasis to how important it is. Of course if the "battery" is actually a power source such as an eGo it does pass through a load.
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