How is this even possible

[Papillon61]

8/9 wraps of AWG 29 Kanthal on 2mm bit should give you around 1.8 ohms, right? At least that is what it has always given me. This evening I was rebuilding a nautilus BVC like I have done so many times before. Lo and behold I put the coil on the ohm meter and it's reading 0.18. I look for sticking out bits of wire. None. I throw out the coil and start over with exactly the same build as always. Again I get 0.16 ohms. I test it on all my regulated mods... same result on all of them.

How is this even possible?!

 

[Matty316]

You may have a short in the atty itself try checking the resistance of your atty without a coil on it. It should read as 0 anything else and you have a short on it.
If you do check your insulators, positive pin and posts to try to identify where it's shorting.

If it's not the atty itself then it has to do with the coil. Make sure it's screwed down right in the posts and making full connection, make sure your coil isn't touching any other part of the atty and make sure your atty is making a good connection with your mod.

 

[VictorViper]

Same results, multiple readings, multiple coils and no new techniques...

Sounds like a good time to fully disassemble that tank and do a thorough check for any burrs or clipped wires stuck somewhere.

 

[Papillon61]

No the Nautilus tank works perfectly fine with my other coils. Just can't undertand. And it's not even a short really. A short usually gives me a reading of 1 on left side of the meter and "non" or "no atomizer" on my mods.

 

[alicewonderland]

maybe that kanthal turned into nickel

 

[Papillon61]

The only thing I did different today is I did not blow torch the coil... following the thread that was all the rage here last week. Other than that I've done what I always do.

 

[Matty316]

No the Nautilus tank works perfectly fine with my other coils. Just can't undertand. And it's not even a short really. A short usually gives me a reading of 1 on left side of the meter and "non" or "no atomizer" on my mods.

A hard short will give you a reading of 0 but not all shorts are hard shorts some will just significantly lower your resistance.

 

[VictorViper]

Tempering your coil or not won't affect your reading like that. Granted you'll generally see a minor change in resistance between a totally bare coil and one that's had heat applied, but not like this. Unless you've entered a parallel universe where the laws of physics no longer apply, there is no way 9 wraps of 29awg Kanthal should produce such a low reading. I smell a short.

 

[Papillon61]

Oh well - i guess it was a bad day for coils today...... Let it go...

 

[mightymen]

This is only my logic no one elses.

You have a negative terminal and a positive terminal.

You don't have a full dead short because your getting a reading.

Not an open wire because your not getting a zero reading.

Somewhere in the first or second turns of the coil it's grounding out.

You could check the tank by attaching a long piece of wire across the terminals, should get a much higher ohms reading showing no short in the tank of cause if you get the same type of low reading showing a short in tank somewhere.

Process of elimination will solve your problem.

If it was me, after the second or third new coil and getting low reading like that.

I WOULD HIGHLY SUSPECT THE TANK.
One other thing don't overlook the 510 connect on the tank and device your using.

If the long wire shows no short and the ohms are good, start looking at the connection where the tank meets the device clear it up and look for worn rubber gaskets.

This is only a suggestion.

I've went thru the exact same thing way back with my Pro tanks more than once - drove me nuts.

 

[WonderDude32]

Ditch the spent coil body and use another. I rebuild bvc's for my nautilus and have not encountered this but I have thought about it. You said that other coils work so try rebuilding on a different shell. I think it's the insulator not getting a good contact with the side of the shell due to just being worn out. I would say check the pin too but I don't see how that can wear down. Good luck.

 

[edyle]

The only thing I did different today is I did not blow torch the coil... following the thread that was all the rage here last week. Other than that I've done what I always do.

Well maybe there's your answer; you're wrapping a microcoil and ohmtesting it before torching or dryfiring it to oxidize the surface. If you wrap a noncontact coil it should work.

 

[VictorViper]

I wrap micros exclusively and do not torch or dry fire before the first reading. The biggest swing in resistance I've experienced pre- to post-burn is 0.14ohms.

 

[WonderDude32]

I wrap micros exclusively and do not torch or dry fire before the first reading. The biggest swing in resistance I've experienced pre- to post-burn is 0.14ohms.

Why do you not torch or dry fire? I merely seek understanding and am not criticizing.

 

[VictorViper]

Why do you not torch or dry fire? I merely seek understanding and am not criticizing.

Oh, I do. But I wrap my coils bare, take a reading, make my adjustments, take a reading, dry fire, take a reading, fiddle, reading, fire, read, read read...

...you get the point.

 

[WonderDude32]

I was confused. lol. To me it read like you build the coil, install it and just pray for the best. I was actually thinking "Wow, this guy must really know what he's doing so that he doesn't even check his builds". Thanks

 

[Papillon61]

Why do you not torch or dry fire? I merely seek understanding and am not criticizing.

I always used to torch, and still do sometimes. But last week there was this big discussion here about some study by Dr Farsalinos who said that dry burning was not a good thing. That started a big debate here which sadly I stopped reading half way through because it was so very technical it went straight over my head. I think the jury is still out on the topic.

 

[Cullin Kin]

I always used to torch, and still do sometimes. But last week there was this big discussion here about some study by Dr Farsalinos who said that dry burning was not a good thing. That started a big debate here which sadly I stopped reading half way through because it was so very technical it went straight over my head. I think the jury is still out on the topic.

Somethig about dry burning damaging the integrity of the coil = inhaling bad stuff... I don't know. I'm with alicewonderland, did you happen to accidentally pick up nickel wire? lol If not, the only other options are: 1) You have a short 2) Whatever you're reading your resistance on failed. I'm going to guess it's #1.

 

[Papillon61]

I don't know. I'm with alicewonderland, did you happen to accidentally pick up nickel wire? .

OMG!!! I think this is the solution to the mystery. When Alice first mentioned it I thought they were just making a joke... like water turned to wine sort of thing. But now that you have repeated the possibility I went to check again. So here is the story - this may take long.

This is what I ordered from Fasttech some time ago: $2.10 Authentic Kanthal A1 Nickel Resistance Wire for RBA RDA RTA Rebuildable Atomizers - 29 AWG / 0.3mm*10m / 1.44ohm/cm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

This took some time to arrive and when it did I noticed that it had a tick on the 28 AWG in the little squares on the spool.

So I wrote to Fasttech about it.

#1.
posted 15 days ago
by you
Hi,
I have just received this order and everything else is fine apart from the above SKU. I ordered 29AWG Kanthal wire but instead I was sent 28AWG.

Kindly advise about how this situation will be remedied.

Thanks for you assistance.

Regards,
Rose Sciberras


#2.
posted 13 days ago
by crystal Staff
Sorry for the issue.

Please provide us bar code of wrong item you have received, bar code has 2 lines numbers and on green or orange tag of item itself package.

We will further assist you upon your reply.


#3.
posted 13 days ago
by you
Hi again,


The numbers on the wrong item are:

13 098 05

59 7 30


Hope this helps.


Regards,

Rose

#4.
posted 13 days ago
by crystal Staff
Sorry to hear that, we will check with warehouse for this issue and it may take some time. Please reply to this ticket 24 hours later.


#5.
posted 9 days ago
by you
Hi I still have not heard anything from you about this wrong item? I would like to know what you intend to do about it.

Thanks.

Rose
#6.
posted 7 days ago
by crystal Staff
Sorry for the issue.

And we have confirmed the issue with supplier as this stock of 29 AWG Wire which sticker on item was marked wrong, but item itself was correct.

Our stock of this item sku which sticker all marked as 28AWG, but it should be 29 AWG.

Sincerely sorry for the inconvenience.
#7.
posted 7 days ago
by you
Hi Crystal,

Thanks for your reply and I will accept your explanation. Maybe you could ask supplier to make this clearer in future.

Best regards,
Rose
Customer closed ticket.


So today, after the second mention of Nickel wire I had a closer look at the wire spool... actually this is its twin, bought together on the same day and Ta Daaa!



Man! I learn something every week! I assumed FT had sent what I ordered, apart from what looked like a different gauge. I never even noticed it said Pure Nickel because I was not looking out for it!! So now I suppose I am lumped with 200ft of pure nickel wire for which I have absolutely no use, right?

 

[Matty316]

Man! I learn something every week! I assumed FT had sent what I ordered, apart from what looked like a different gauge. I never even noticed it said Pure Nickel because I was not looking out for it!! So now I suppose I am lumped with 200ft of pure nickel wire for which I have absolutely no use, right?

It could be useful but you would need a mod with temperature control you can't use it in normal wattage mode.
Well atleast you know you have plenty of wire if you do have or ever get a temp control mod.