How long should your builds (coils) last? Ok to dry fire them?

[rcalvy1]

Hi guys,

So I been building my coils and rebuildables now for a few months. Couple questions, I find I'm getting 4-6 days out of my coils some of my friends have told me to simply clean the coils. So I take the coton out obviously then dry fire my coils and scrub them with my ceramic tweezers then dry fire them again and dunk them in water dry them scrub them more and re wick them. I find once I cleaned the coils they only last two to three days I'm almost better off just rebuilding it seems? Also is it safe to dry burn the coils? I have bought demon killer pre made coils and have had the framed claptons in since last night and I find them dirty already strange ...pictured below.

 

[Two_Bears]

Hi guys,

So I been building my coils and rebuildables now for a few months. Couple questions, I find I'm getting 4-6 days out of my coils some of my friends have told me to simply clean the coils. So I take the coton out obviously then dry fire my coils and scrub them with my ceramic tweezers then dry fire them again and dunk them in water dry them scrub them more and re wick them. I find once I cleaned the coils they only last two to three days I'm almost better off just rebuilding it seems? Also is it safe to dry burn the coils? I have bought demon killer pre made coils and have had the framed claptons in since last night and I find them dirty already strange ...pictured below.

These are safe to Dry burn

Kanthal, Stainless Steel, and possibly Nichrome.

Unsafe to Dry burn Nickel and Titanium

my coils last about 3 months.

Here is what i do.

Dry burn till they glow Red. Allow to cool a bit and blow the burned gunk off the coil. Repeat 1 or 2 times.

Insert new wick and Prime with Juice and reassemble the RTA takes me about two minutes. I replace my Rayon wicking every 3-4 days

 

[NU_FTW]

Hi guys,

So I been building my coils and rebuildables now for a few months. Couple questions, I find I'm getting 4-6 days out of my coils some of my friends have told me to simply clean the coils. So I take the coton out obviously then dry fire my coils and scrub them with my ceramic tweezers then dry fire them again and dunk them in water dry them scrub them more and re wick them. I find once I cleaned the coils they only last two to three days I'm almost better off just rebuilding it seems? Also is it safe to dry burn the coils? I have bought demon killer pre made coils and have had the framed claptons in since last night and I find them dirty already strange ...pictured below.

Safety of "dry burning" really depends on how hot you fire your coils... a dim orange is safer than a bright orange. You dont need to dunk them in water... you shouldnt dunk them in water in fact. What i do is just heat them up enough to get the outside gunk crusty enough to scrape off with a precision flat head that is about 1.5mm in width. I do not know what demon killer coils are..

If you want your coils/wick to last longer it is the juice you use.

Personally my coils last MONTHS. Wicks however only last a couple weeks.

I vape my own juices which 50% of my juices are sweetener free and 50% have 1% or less EM (most common sweetener)

I have never ran my coils under water to clean and i do not hold the fire button till they are essentially molten either. Just enough to burn the crud off the outside without getting to o hot.

The coils produce different oxides depending on what metal you are using. The layer of oxides can be dislodged and inhaled, it is better to not over heat your coil when cleaning.

Rant over for now.

 

[Sugar_and_Spice]

I agree with above poster in that its the ejuice you use that is gunking up the coils faster. Ejuices with a lot of sweetner in them or the darker ejuices tend to gunk the coils up quicker than ejuices that are clear that you can see through. According to your pic, I see darknened coils but no gunk build up. Are you cleaning because the vape starts tasting funky or the air flow is lessened? They are never going to be as clean as when you first build them, no matter what you do. Once heated they will always remain a little darker in color. Some more than others, it depend on what wire the coil is made of.

 

[rcalvy1]

Thanks for the reply guys appreciated. Demon killer coils are pre made coils claptons and alien coils. I also read somewhere that the quality of the wire had a big part to play in it.

 

[Beeker25]

I don't burn my coils at all anymore. I use SS316L pretty much exclusively now in temp control on DNA200 devices. The customer service rep at Evolv recommends against it and I'm not convinced that dry firing coils is a good thing based on all I've read. Spaced coils built right don't have hot spots. I know that goes against what most people do but that's my 2 cents. [emoji111]️


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[daviedog]

Be sure to 'feather fire' before first use. See the machine oils burn off?
I never use water, could have junk in it.

I rewick every 20ml, stops big buildup of crud. I then use an old toothbrush. Keep mandrel in coil while brushing. NO toothpaste..

 

[Beeker25]

I don't even do that. I get my wire from Lightening Vapes and it comes pretty clean. In any case Nick at Evolv and I have had this discussion. Quite honestly the vape tastes great and I'm not sure it's oil being fried off. [emoji91]


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[Akrotiri]

Hi guys,

So I been building my coils and rebuildables now for a few months. Couple questions, I find I'm getting 4-6 days out of my coils some of my friends have told me to simply clean the coils. So I take the coton out obviously then dry fire my coils and scrub them with my ceramic tweezers then dry fire them again and dunk them in water dry them scrub them more and re wick them. I find once I cleaned the coils they only last two to three days I'm almost better off just rebuilding it seems? Also is it safe to dry burn the coils? I have bought demon killer pre made coils and have had the framed claptons in since last night and I find them dirty already strange ...pictured below.

Scraping your coils with ceramic tweezers and dipping them in water is safe.
Dry burning your coils is not safe.

 

[Ben85]

Scraping your coils with ceramic tweezers and dipping them in water is safe.
Dry burning your coils is not safe.

And you are basing that on what exactly?

I dry burn and re-wick and have been doing so for years. I don't do all this scrubbing business though, I don't see the need.

 

[Rule62]

I dry burn, and then gently brush off the coils, inside and out, with one of those little Dentek brushes that you can get at the drug store in the dental care aisle. They look like tiny bottle brushes.
I agree with the poster above; you don't need to fire the coils to white hot to clean them. Just a dull cherry red is fine; and do not quench them in water. It changes the characteristics of the metal, vs just allowing them to cool.
My coils will last for months.

 

[englishmick]

I dry burn, and then gently brush off the coils, inside and out, with one of those little Dentek brushes that you can get at the drug store in the dental care aisle. They look like tiny bottle brushes.
I agree with the poster above; you don't need to fire the coils to white hot to clean them. Just a dull cherry red is fine; and do not quench them in water. It changes the characteristics of the metal, vs just allowing them to cool.
My coils will last for months.

That's what I do. It doesn't take much heat to loosen the crud on the coil and the dental brush will take it right off inside and out. So long as you remember to let the coil cool down before you stick the brush in there. Melted nylon doesn't taste too good. Before that I used pipe cleaners to removed the dried gunk after heating, but I realized after a while that pieces of cotton from the pipe cleaner were getting stuck in the coil.

Someone posted a link for tiny wire brushes the size of the smallest dental brushes, or any other size you could imagine. I've still got it somewhere. They would be perfect but the vendor seemed to be a wholesale supplier and I never found a retail outlet.

Another good reason to keep the temp down is to protect the insulators. Especially with Protank heads, but I'm guessing even the fancy Peek stuff will suffer eventually if you keep overheating it.

 

[Two_Bears]

And you are basing that on what exactly?

I dry burn and re-wick and have been doing so for years. I don't do all this scrubbing business though, I don't see the need.

Been Dry burning Kanthal coils over 3 years since i started using RDAs. I rebuilt the OCC heads but you can't Dry burn those because the insulator will melt.

 

[Rule62]

That's what I do. It doesn't take much heat to loosen the crud on the coil and the dental brush will take it right off inside and out. So long as you remember to let the coil cool down before you stick the brush in there. Melted nylon doesn't taste too good. Before that I used pipe cleaners to removed the dried gunk after heating, but I realized after a while that pieces of cotton from the pipe cleaner were getting stuck in the coil.

Someone posted a link for tiny wire brushes the size of the smallest dental brushes, or any other size you could imagine. I've still got it somewhere. They would be perfect but the vendor seemed to be a wholesale supplier and I never found a retail outlet.

Another good reason to keep the temp down is to protect the insulators. Especially with Protank heads, but I'm guessing even the fancy Peek stuff will suffer eventually if you keep overheating it.

Yes. Have to wait for the coil to cool down before brushing with the Dentek brush; and also before wicking. I use SS coils, and it takes a while for them to cool.

 

[r055co]

I don't burn my coils at all anymore. I use SS316L pretty much exclusively now in temp control on DNA200 devices. The customer service rep at Evolv recommends against it and I'm not convinced that dry firing coils is a good thing based on all I've read. Spaced coils built right don't have hot spots. I know that goes against what most people do but that's my 2 cents. [emoji111]️

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Dry firing coils is perfectly fine as long as you pulse them and don't get them white hot. The temp that the SS or Kanthal has to reach to release the toxins is way higher than when you dry fire to clean.

Be sure to 'feather fire' before first use. See the machine oils burn off?
I never use water, could have junk in it.

I rewick every 20ml, stops big buildup of crud. I then use an old toothbrush. Keep mandrel in coil while brushing. NO toothpaste..

So you afraid of being around cooking, steam rooms, drinking the water, etc.?

Scraping your coils with ceramic tweezers and dipping them in water is safe.
Dry burning your coils is not safe.

As Ben85 asks, what are you basing this on?

And you are basing that on what exactly?

I dry burn and re-wick and have been doing so for years. I don't do all this scrubbing business though, I don't see the need.

Yep

I dry burn, and then gently brush off the coils, inside and out, with one of those little Dentek brushes that you can get at the drug store in the dental care aisle. They look like tiny bottle brushes.
I agree with the poster above; you don't need to fire the coils to white hot to clean them. Just a dull cherry red is fine; and do not quench them in water. It changes the characteristics of the metal, vs just allowing them to cool.
My coils will last for months.

Quenching is perfectly fine, nothing wrong with it. If it was as hazard cooks would be screwed.

 

[Maestro]

I rinse the deck off under the tap to remove the juice from the wick. Then I just pull out the wick and give the deck a few good flicks to shake off the excess water. When I dry burn, the water is gone pretty quick. I get it good and red, blow off any residue and re-wick. I know some advocate against tap water, but it's been flawless for me so far.

 

[Maestro]

Dry firing coils is perfectly fine as long as you pulse them and don't get them white hot. The temp that the SS or Kanthal has to reach to release the toxins is way higher than when you dry fire to clean.
So you afraid of being around cooking, steam rooms, drinking the water, etc.?


As Ben85 asks, what are you basing this on?


Yep
Quenching is perfectly fine, nothing wrong with it. If it was as hazard cooks would be screwed.

Quenching is also known as tempering. It's used to harden steel. I don't know how it would affect kanthal, but I don't do it. I wouldn't recommend doing it to a red-hot pot either.

 

[Rule62]

Dry firing coils is perfectly fine as long as you pulse them and don't get them white hot. The temp that the SS or Kanthal has to reach to release the toxins is way higher than when you dry fire to clean.
So you afraid of being around cooking, steam rooms, drinking the water, etc.?


As Ben85 asks, what are you basing this on?


Yep
Quenching is perfectly fine, nothing wrong with it. If it was as hazard cooks would be screwed.

I didn't say quenching was a hazard. I said it changes the characteristics of the metal.

 

[Two_Bears]

Quenching is also known as tempering. It's used to harden steel. I don't know how it would affect kanthal, but I don't do it. I wouldn't recommend doing it to a red-hot pot either.

Absolutely. They have been quenching Steel for hundreds of years since the days of Woot Steel. Then the Samurai folded tge Steel and hammered it back out 8-30 times. Then quenched when the katana was done.

I have a katana folded 12 times. That is 4,096 layers of carbon and steel
1 fold 2 layers
2 folds 4 layers
3 folds 8 layers
4 folds 16 layers
5 folds 32 layers
6 folds 64 layers
7 folds 128 layers
8 folds 512 layers
9 folders 1024 layers
And so on.

Now yoy know why a katana dan Choo bamboo, bones, etc without wrecking the blade.

Some katanas could chop 5-8 corpses before needing to be sharprned

 

[Beeker25]

Something to consider

A chemist’s advice: Don’t Dry-Burn your coil


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