How long should your builds (coils) last? Ok to dry fire them?
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Lot of speculation like the hazards of formaldehyde that have been debunked when peer reviewed so I'm not putting much credence in that article either.I tend to agree with the first comment (below the article). But what do I know.
Well here's the finished product. I dry fired them a bit brushed them dry fired again dunked them in water dried them by dry firing then took the dripper off the mod and ran it under water to make sure to get all the dry gunk residue out of the juice wells and deck dried it with paper towel dry fired and adjusted and voila. They came out pretty clean now let's see if I'll have to clean them in a day or two. At that point isn't it just better to replace anyways?
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Most go by flavor, so if it doesn't taste as good after cleaning then swap em.
Otherwise as you have noticed you will get 20 different answers lol.
Sounds like the cleaning is working so it will turn into more of a personal preference.
Otherwise as you have noticed you will get 20 different answers lol.
Sounds like the cleaning is working so it will turn into more of a personal preference.
I think you need to do whatever you feel is best. Personally, I dry fire for months and the difference of this compared to a fresh new build is negligible at best, but if you want to change it - change it. There is no right or wrong answer.
I usually dry fire my SS316L coils 3-5 times before finally replacing them
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The opinions of those "chemists" (Dr. Farsalinos and Pedro Carvalho) were discussed in length on this forum a year or so ago. They were invited to participate buy got too shy. It's all pure nonsense.
Kanthal is designed for high temperature, up to 2400F (Kanthal A-1); at this temperature wire will be bright white (chart below). SS can form Cr(VI) at temperatures of melting (welding), which is even higher.
So, I routinely dry burn my kanthal coils at orange/lemon color (1700-1800 F) and SS316 at bright cherry/salmon color (1400-1500F) just to be on safer side. It is rather low temperature for cleaning, a lot of non-organic residue remains on coils (I have checked it with microscope). I do gently scrape coils with jewelers screwdriver and dry burn them again. I do not really know for how long my coils last, but a conservative estimate is 3 months.
Can occasional oxide particle be inhaled? For sure. But how many particles of dust with oxides of about every element do we inhale each day? Hint - much (MUCH) more.
And thisThe opinions of those "chemists" (Dr. Farsalinos and Pedro Carvalho) were discussed in length on this forum a year or so ago. They were invited to participate buy got too shy. It's all pure nonsense.
Kanthal is designed for high temperature, up to 2400F (Kanthal A-1); at this temperature wire will be bright white (chart below). SS can form Cr(VI) at temperatures of melting (welding), which is even higher.
So, I routinely dry burn my kanthal coils at orange/lemon color (1700-1800 F) and SS316 at bright cherry/salmon color (1400-1500F) just to be on safer side. It is rather low temperature for cleaning, a lot of non-organic residue remains on coils (I have checked it with microscope). I do gently scrape coils with jewelers screwdriver and dry burn them again. I do not really know for how long my coils last, but a conservative estimate is 3 months.
Can occasional oxide particle be inhaled? For sure. But how many particles of dust with oxides of about every element do we inhale each day? Hint - much (MUCH) more.
Almost sounds like you're vaping NET, what juice are you using that gunks up coils that quickly? How many ml of juice do you vape between cleanings? I've not personally noticed much of a difference between new and cleaned coils when it comes to how fast they gunk up. The type and amount of juice consumed is usually the culprit when it comes to crusty coils.
I would not vape any juice that gunks up that bad that fast. I just re-wicked after a month+ on a RTA that I probably vaped 150+ ml of DIY thru and they didn't look anything like that. My rayon was still white and the coils that have been in there since October, and cleaned a month ago, were barely gunked up.
naturally extracted tobacco juice
As Fozzy71 said, Naturally Extracted Tobacco or "NET" for short. The flavor of real tobacco without combustion/smoking. I've been making NETs and Hybrid (flavored) NETs for years, it's all I vape.
The only juice I've found that's harder on wicks/coils than NET is a DIY Chocolate raspberry crème I mix for my better half. Either the Inawera chocolate or TFA double chocolate clear that's in it is the problem but she loves it as is and won't let me tweak it.... Some flavorings are much worse than others but they, and sweeteners, are the cause of coil buildup.
If I had to guess I would say it is a combination sweet juice and not enough airflow. Coils are not getting enough airflow. They are wedged in there with lots of cotton. Turn down the wattage.
Are you getting a burnt or scorched taste? The discoloration is likely due to the type and amount of sweetener in the juice. Most retail e-juice has low to moderate amounts (0.2 - 0.7%) of sucralose based sweeteners added as a flavor/body enhancer, some have high amounts (>1.5%) added for extreme sweetness (candy like). The more sweetener used the faster coils will gunk up. Could also be you're firing your coils at too high a wattage for the juice you're using. Some juice can't handle low ohms and high watts.
Looking at that as one day of deposit, I'd have to agree with everyone, you're using the wrong juice on the wrong build. My coils have never looked like that, even ones I've been lazy about caring for. I can't even figure how you could even clean that up.
Little show and tell. Merlin build, 8 spaced wraps of 24 ga. 316L formed over a 3mm ID (approximately) screw then squeezed onto a coil master shank. Came out at .41 ohms. Vapes great in temp control after juicing up.
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