How low can a Subtank Mini go?
- Thread starter WhiskeyTango
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That is solely dependent on the battery you use. What are you using?
Because of the size of the rba deck, the terminals, the terminal lead holes, and the juice channels, I'd never drop below 0.4. Any lower would be dry hit city and might be dangerous. That said, 0.4 has worked great for me, provided I wick the coil and deck properly.
As Susan said, that depends upon the batteries you'll be using to fire the coils. Never attempt to fire a coil which will draw more (maximum continuous discharge rate) amps than the battery has to give. The lower you go in resistance, the higher the amp demands on the battery will be:
1.0 ohm = 4.2 amp draw
0.9 ohm = 4.6 amp draw
0.8 ohm = 5.2 amp draw
0.7 ohms = 6 amp draw
0.6 ohms = 7 amp draw
0.5 ohms = 8.4 amp draw
0.4 ohms = 10.5 amp draw
0.3 ohms = 14.0 amp draw
0.2 ohms = 21.0 amp draw
0.1 ohms = 42.0 amp draw
0.0 ohms = dead short = battery goes into thermal runaway
Explain It To the Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations
Be sure to measure the resistance (ohms) of each coil you make before you actually fire it. Your IPV4 has a built-in ohm meter.
I used to work in a vape shop where all the employees built exotic coils for fun. IMHO, a simple microcoil works as good as anything. Exotic coils are more for enthusiasts & hobbyists.
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I'm going to be pairing it to a Sigelei 150w with 35 amp batteries. I can't remember what brand they are but I know they were on the higher end of the spectrum. They're yellow if that helps. I forgot my mod at home thanks to a rough night and had to go back to the good old analogs for a day.
There are no true 35 amp batteries (max. continuous discharge rate). The highest rated batteries are 30 amps made by Sony, and they are either getting hard to find in stock or being discontinued.
Final word on Sony's production plans for the US18650 VTC4 and the US18650 VTC5 (April 9, 2015)
Many vendors and even manufacturers (ie Efest) advertise the so-called "pulse" rating to encourage sales of their batteries against their competition. The more accurate and industry standard specification is the "continuous discharge rating".
Chances are high that whatever battery you have now is that it is only a 20 amp continuous discharge. Please read the second half of this blog:
Purple Efest Batteries Not As Advertised
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Sounds like you got the mxjo. I have one and they are confirmed to be LG he2 rewraps. Those have a cdr of 20 amps, not 35.
The more you know.....
Sounds like your kit and batteries exceed the capabilities of the rba. That's good. Keep it at or above 0.4 ohms and you're good.
Thank you everyone for your knowledge and input. I learned quite a bit today. The only thing left bothering me now is why do the batteries say 35A (assuming that's amps) when they're only 20 amp batteries?
Some companies re wrap or have them re wrapped with false marketing hype amp rating instead of true CDR.
You can have anything you want printed on a battery wrapper.
One more question...if the batteries are only 20 amp rated, and the High Voltage tank and my RDAs run about .2 ohms, is it true that according to the listing above that I am putting myself in danger because it is drawing 21 amps at that resistance?
If you're asking about the sigelie 150, the 2 batteries share the load so 2 20a cdr batteries will work to a point and it has built in protection circuitry.
Sigelei recommends 30a CDR batteries for their 150w APV.
Orbtronic SX30 2100mah 30a
VTC4 2100mah 30a (there are no authentic VTC5's out there)
Xtar 2100mah 30a (re-wrapped VTC4)
Only buy batteries from reputable vendors / dealers.
Sigelei recommends 30a CDR batteries for their 150w APV.
Orbtronic SX30 2100mah 30a
VTC4 2100mah 30a (there are no authentic VTC5's out there)
Xtar 2100mah 30a (re-wrapped VTC4)
Only buy batteries from reputable vendors / dealers.
I have to say, I truly appreciate everyone's knowledge and willingness to help. The plethora of expertise that floods these forums are the reason I chose to begin vaping.
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