How to build a simple CE2 Ghetto Tank
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Thanks!
I just realized something too: Like when you clean a regular clearo, you could use a battery screwed on to remove the CE2 for cleaning or replacement as well rather than the pliers I used in the video.
Well, it was late both when I did the video and the next night when I was working on it and finally rendered it (spent way more time than it was worth in AfterEffects doing that stupid "Music to Fill By" interlude
) so yeah... my brain was just getting tired of my abuse. Any time! I've got at least one modification to it that I want to do though, to use a longer length of tube that reaches the bottom and has long slats cut out of either side to provide stability to the tube, still allow plenty of liquid in, and allow the liquid a place to travel to the cup when you tip. The way it is liquid can't reach the cup when it gets down to about 1/4 to 1/3 full because it can reach the bit of tube around the cup.)
I also want to find out where some leaking is coming from. It's not the tank mod, this is a problem I have with some of my CE2s at some point, and I strongly suspect there is a weak point around the heat shrink tubing around the air tube where it meets the cup that's allowing liquid to get into the cup from underneath. I suspect this problem because one of my Fluxos came out of the box with a cup that was able to slide up and down the air tube, so there's a QC issue with that area. Might need a bit of sealant around there. (Aquarium-grade pure silicone caulk might work here.)
nice! saves me from thinkin of something. Sittin here wishing I could still use my CE2's but of course both ends of the tubes are cracked..now I have a tank
Thanks!
No problem! Glad you were able to get some new life out of your old clearos.
I think I might take one of my cracked clearomizers and give this a go soon!
Depending on where the cracks are, if you can find an uncracked 3/4" length you can cut off and use, that'll work. Since the tube is no longer what holds the juice, it's just there to keep the seal over the cup, liquid out of the cup, and give you a place to put your mouthpiece/drip tip.
That is just awesome!
Simple to build, and I think it looks pretty dang kewl!
Great job, Mindfield!
Simple to build, and I think it looks pretty dang kewl!
Great job, Mindfield!
Cool mod Mind.
What I've found with my CE2s is that after vaping for awhile, you get a lot of vapor condensation above the cup. At first I thought it was leaking, but was just this condensation collecting above the cup. Now when I notice this, just take the CE2 off and blow it out.
What I've found with my CE2s is that after vaping for awhile, you get a lot of vapor condensation above the cup. At first I thought it was leaking, but was just this condensation collecting above the cup. Now when I notice this, just take the CE2 off and blow it out.
Thanks! It is indeed really easy to build and as long as you have a CE2 you've probably got the rest of the materials. Builds in under 10 minutes and it's cheap enough you can build multiple tanks or just build a new one if the old one wears out.
One solution I found for that is to stack two of the inner rings in one tube, one groove-side down over the cup, one groove-side up on top of that. It still collects condensation, but some of it at least will end up in the groove of the upper cup seal. Plus, if you do this tank mod and make the bit that sticks out of the top short enough, you can stack the O-rings as described and your drip tip will .... up against them when inserted, leaving no room for juice to pool. The one I made in that video is almost perfect for that, there's about 2/3mm gap between the bottom of my drip tip and the top O-ring. Interestingly -- and I don't know if this is because of the dual seals, the close proximity of my drip tip to those seals, or even that little gap making a kind of prison for juice that its surface tension is to great to free it from and preventing it from climbing up any further, or what, but I haven't had a single juice-in-the-mouth incident -- not even a thin sheen of juice creeping out the tip -- so something about this design is significantly mitigating the problem.
Thanks.
Okay, so I built another one last night with a bit of a modification. I wasn't satisfied using just a small bit of tubing because it didn't give support if you had to apply any pressure either inserting or removing a drip tip, so I was always afraid of breaking it. Also, because of how the tubing was done, there was no real way to use up all the juice. If you lay the mod on its side, once the juice level dropped below the lip of the tubing, there was no way for juice to get into the tube and therefore the cup and the top of the wicks, so it ended up not being much better than a regular Fluxo from a refilling standpoint.
At first I tried cutting an entire 3mm strip out of each side of tube about 2" long, effectively creating two wide "legs" for the tube to be able to "stand" on the bottle and give both support and a channel down which liquid could flow and reach the cup. Unfortunately the legs ended up bending and slipping down the mouth of the bottle. (The wicks alone simply aren't good enough to carry juice to the coil fast enough when the juice level gets low.)
So I did the same thing but cut two "windows" instead, leaving about 1mm of material intact around the bottom of the tube and cutting a strip out about 1.5-2" down the length of the tube, stopping at that bottom strip. This prevented it from bending or buckling, allowing it to rest on the bottom of the bottle without slipping down the mouth of the bottle, and provided a kind of gutter along which juice can travel to reach the cup, pretty much right down to the last drop.
So here's what to do. You will need a modded Fluxomizer Deluxe with at least the seal mod (replace the original cup seal with the middle seal, groove-side down) and you'll need to have already followed the directions in the video to cut the hole in the bottle and insert the CE2 huts.
1. Take an assembled and seal-modded Fluxomizer Deluxe. Without removing the seal, attach to a battery and remove the tube. The seal should stay where it was in the tube.
2. The placement of the seal is where we want to cut the tube off. Cut around the bottom of the seal where it would normally cover the cup. This gives us the perfect length.
3. From the other end of the tube, using your razor knife, poke a small slit parallel to the bottom and about 1mm above it.
4. Slice along the length of the tube to about half way up and poke a slit across the top, effectively cutting out a "window."
5. Do the same for the other side.
6. Insert the tube into the bottle and over the CE2. Check the location of the "top" of the window to see how close it comes to the cup. We want the top of the windows to be right around the bottom of the cup (otherwise you can't fill the bottle past the top of the windows). If they are not tall enough, cut an additional small section out and re-insert to measure until the windows reach the bottom of the cup.
7. Once the windows are the right size and the tube is positioned properly, seal with hot glue and allow to cool.
8. Fluff the wicks (this helps both feed more juice to the coil and also blocks the top of the wick slots to prevent excess juice from entering the cup), fill, insert seal and drip tip, vape and enjoy!
9. An additional mod you can do (this works on any Fluxomizer, not just this mod) is use a second seal from a Fluxomizer (with or without the donut mod) and stack it on top of the one you're using as a cup seal, groove-side up. This will reduce the space between the bottom of the drip tip and the seal to almost nothing, and virtually eliminate excess condensation and juice in the mouth.
Okay, so I built another one last night with a bit of a modification. I wasn't satisfied using just a small bit of tubing because it didn't give support if you had to apply any pressure either inserting or removing a drip tip, so I was always afraid of breaking it. Also, because of how the tubing was done, there was no real way to use up all the juice. If you lay the mod on its side, once the juice level dropped below the lip of the tubing, there was no way for juice to get into the tube and therefore the cup and the top of the wicks, so it ended up not being much better than a regular Fluxo from a refilling standpoint.
At first I tried cutting an entire 3mm strip out of each side of tube about 2" long, effectively creating two wide "legs" for the tube to be able to "stand" on the bottle and give both support and a channel down which liquid could flow and reach the cup. Unfortunately the legs ended up bending and slipping down the mouth of the bottle. (The wicks alone simply aren't good enough to carry juice to the coil fast enough when the juice level gets low.)
So I did the same thing but cut two "windows" instead, leaving about 1mm of material intact around the bottom of the tube and cutting a strip out about 1.5-2" down the length of the tube, stopping at that bottom strip. This prevented it from bending or buckling, allowing it to rest on the bottom of the bottle without slipping down the mouth of the bottle, and provided a kind of gutter along which juice can travel to reach the cup, pretty much right down to the last drop.
So here's what to do. You will need a modded Fluxomizer Deluxe with at least the seal mod (replace the original cup seal with the middle seal, groove-side down) and you'll need to have already followed the directions in the video to cut the hole in the bottle and insert the CE2 huts.
1. Take an assembled and seal-modded Fluxomizer Deluxe. Without removing the seal, attach to a battery and remove the tube. The seal should stay where it was in the tube.
2. The placement of the seal is where we want to cut the tube off. Cut around the bottom of the seal where it would normally cover the cup. This gives us the perfect length.
3. From the other end of the tube, using your razor knife, poke a small slit parallel to the bottom and about 1mm above it.
4. Slice along the length of the tube to about half way up and poke a slit across the top, effectively cutting out a "window."
5. Do the same for the other side.
6. Insert the tube into the bottle and over the CE2. Check the location of the "top" of the window to see how close it comes to the cup. We want the top of the windows to be right around the bottom of the cup (otherwise you can't fill the bottle past the top of the windows). If they are not tall enough, cut an additional small section out and re-insert to measure until the windows reach the bottom of the cup.
7. Once the windows are the right size and the tube is positioned properly, seal with hot glue and allow to cool.
8. Fluff the wicks (this helps both feed more juice to the coil and also blocks the top of the wick slots to prevent excess juice from entering the cup), fill, insert seal and drip tip, vape and enjoy!
9. An additional mod you can do (this works on any Fluxomizer, not just this mod) is use a second seal from a Fluxomizer (with or without the donut mod) and stack it on top of the one you're using as a cup seal, groove-side up. This will reduce the space between the bottom of the drip tip and the seal to almost nothing, and virtually eliminate excess condensation and juice in the mouth.
Thanks! I've got a video tutorial on the changes right here. That should give you everything you need to know to make the v2 Ghetto Tank CE2, but if you have any questions I'm more than happy to answer them.
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