How to fix Provari + Protank 1 and 2 airflow issue when tank is flush

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c3 rolling

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I know that most people have a huge problem with the lack of air flow when you tighten down a Protank flush to a Provari. It even states it on the Provape site that the Protank should not be tightened all the way down due to airflow issues.

From Provape...

NOTE: Due to the design of the new ProTank 2 we recommend that you don't screw the tank down all the way to the ProVari. This will reduce the airflow. For best results, screw the tank on just to the point where you start to feel it tighten but don't turn it any further. It will still have a secure connection to the ProVari and allow for proper airflow.

This is the remedy to have a nicely flush Protank without cutting off air flow or over tightening. Takes 1 minute.

1. Get any decent sand paper (I used 400 grit) and slowly roll the base of the coil unit back and forth to remove a SMALL amount of material from the bottom. Make sure not to get metal up the hole or remove too much material. I would take maybe 10 swipes back and forth and test the fitment and air draw before removing more material.





2. Screw onto the base.


3. Attach to the Provari



You will notice that it take very little pressure to get the tank tightened all the way down. The draw will be a very nice draw, good for both mouth and lung hits. I know this was way too easy and I hope this will work the same for you guys.








 

Train2

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I may try that if I need to - but I've been lucky, and my ProTanks (I have a bunch!) are all fitting well (knock on wood, salt over shoulder, whatever). I asked ProVape about ProTank trouble before buying my ProVari - and their explanation made sense - SOME ProTanks leave a "gap" - and there's not much ProVape can do about it, because the problem is INCONSISTENCY in the ProTank (threads and coils, too I guess).

So one tank will sit flush, and another will leave a gap, and one will get airflow choked and another one won't.

I think the length of the threading varies a bit, as does the location of the airhole.

This is a good fix though, if airflow is the problem - I'll keep it in mind!
 

c3 rolling

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I'm guessing that if anyone has a problem with only the tank not sitting flush this would help it also. I tried about 10 rebuilt coils on my Provari and they all would sit flush but would take too much pressure to tighten and reduce air flow. I probably should upgrade from a Protank but I keep coming back! I am still waiting for that email when the Kaifun Lite Plus gets back in stock....drool.
 

kas122461

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I'm guessing that if anyone has a problem with only the tank not sitting flush this would help it also. I tried about 10 rebuilt coils on my Provari and they all would sit flush but would take too much pressure to tighten and reduce air flow. I probably should upgrade from a Protank but I keep coming back! I am still waiting for that email when the Kaifun Lite Plus gets back in stock....drool.


I do admit that I have one kayfun lite, and I want 1 more, they provide the best vape I have had to this date. Although, I also just ordered 2 of the sophia's and 2 tanks from Loki lab's, and I am looking forward to those as well, rave reviews.

KAS
 

BernieVideo

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Funny. My problem with the PT2 on
My Provari was that it was too airy a hit. I was always looking for a way to plug the air holes on the base plate.

I did from time to time have issue with the PT2 not being recognized by my Provari. I would, as Provapes suggests, back the bottom plate off a bit. That would solve the problem.

I do think your solution could work too


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Ozwald

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Not all brass contains lead. Naval brass, for instance.

I'm pretty careful to only get items with unleaded brass where the element will come in contact with juice anywhere, such as my drip tips, etc..

Anything made in the last few decades has either 3% or 0%. 3% isn't even harmful but if someone's that worried about it, it's simple to clean off the surface lead - & make it bright n shiny at the same time. People like shiny things. :)
 
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