How to Fix Stuff

[MikeE3]

So you guys got me thinking and I did some googling and found this for a couple bucks.

Midwest Products 1/16 in. X 4 in. W X 2 ft. L Basswood Sheet #2/BTR Premium Grade Mfr# 4402 - Ace Hardware

Basswood is an affordable hardwood desired for its workability and finishing qualities. Thin basswood may be cut with a hobby knife while thicker basswood requires a saw for cutting. Midwest Products strives to produce the finest sheets, strips and blocks to provide the best quality basswood for...

www.acehardware.com

I plan on squaring off the hinge mortises and cutting rectangular pieces of the bass wood to glue in. I may get lucky and with the glue under the 'insert' it may come real close to being flush with the face board. Plus when I push it into position I may get enough glue squeeze out to fill some of the gap.

If this works out it would be a minimum of filler and perhaps just a standard wood filler would be all I'll need.

Thanks guys for getting me thinking on this project again. I'd like to finish it before we move out of my daughters into our next house.

 

[zoiDman]

...

I watched a video of that Zinsser product. It looked 'spreadable' and had a longer working time. But it is more expensive $26 for 32oz @ Amazon and an oil based version for a couple bucks less.

View attachment 995776

Any real difference between the two. If the red label it better I've no issue with spending a couple extra bucks.

I think I'm going to try this product. Early June my wife and I are moving into another house and it would be used for some repair work there also.

There is No Difference between the two. Just different lighting on an Old and a New Label.

https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/zinsser-products/wall-repair/ready-patch-professional-spackling-and-patching-compound

MH Ready Patch is Very Easy to Apply with a Smooth Metal Putty Knife. No Problem with working time. It also Sands Smooth and paints well.

 

[puffon]

So you guys got me thinking and I did some googling and found this for a couple bucks.

Midwest Products 1/16 in. X 4 in. W X 2 ft. L Basswood Sheet #2/BTR Premium Grade Mfr# 4402 - Ace Hardware

Basswood is an affordable hardwood desired for its workability and finishing qualities. Thin basswood may be cut with a hobby knife while thicker basswood requires a saw for cutting. Midwest Products strives to produce the finest sheets, strips and blocks to provide the best quality basswood for...

www.acehardware.com

I plan on squaring off the hinge mortises and cutting rectangular pieces of the bass wood to glue in. I may get lucky and with the glue under the 'insert' it may come real close to being flush with the face board. Plus when I push it into position I may get enough glue squeeze out to fill some of the gap.

If this works out it would be a minimum of filler and perhaps just a standard wood filler would be all I'll need.

Thanks guys for getting me thinking on this project again. I'd like to finish it before we move out of my daughters into our next house.

That should work.
Hobby stores (Hobby Lobby) also carry thin stock wood.

 

[zoiDman]

So you guys got me thinking and I did some googling and found this for a couple bucks.

Midwest Products 1/16 in. X 4 in. W X 2 ft. L Basswood Sheet #2/BTR Premium Grade Mfr# 4402 - Ace Hardware

Basswood is an affordable hardwood desired for its workability and finishing qualities. Thin basswood may be cut with a hobby knife while thicker basswood requires a saw for cutting. Midwest Products strives to produce the finest sheets, strips and blocks to provide the best quality basswood for...

www.acehardware.com

I plan on squaring off the hinge mortises and cutting rectangular pieces of the bass wood to glue in. I may get lucky and with the glue under the 'insert' it may come real close to being flush with the face board. Plus when I push it into position I may get enough glue squeeze out to fill some of the gap.

If this works out it would be a minimum of filler and perhaps just a standard wood filler would be all I'll need.

Thanks guys for getting me thinking on this project again. I'd like to finish it before we move out of my daughters into our next house.

Believe it or Not. But the Radius on Door Hinges are somewhat Standardized. A Very Common Corner Radius Size is 5/8" | .625"

The reason I mention this is you can buy an el-Cheapo hinge for like a Buck Ninety Eight. And then use it as a Template to Trace the Radius/Profile of the Hinge onto your piece of Wood to Cut.

Just make a tracing of the Mortise on a piece of paper and take it with you when you go to the Hardware Store.

 

[MikeE3]

Believe it or Not. But the Radius on Door Hinges are somewhat Standardized. A Very Common Corner Radius Size is 5/8" | .625"

The reason I mention this is you can buy an el-Cheapo hinge for like a Buck Ninety Eight. And then use it as a Template to Trace the Radius/Profile of the Hinge onto your piece of Wood to Cut.

Just make a tracing of the Mortise on a piece of paper and take it with you when you go to the Hardware Store.

geez, I probably threw away at least a 1/2 dozen old hinges when we cleaned-up/out and packed up the old house for storage and then moving.

That crossed my mind but I thought it might be easier to line of the leading edge if I was just working with rectangular pieces. We'll see.

 

[MikeE3]

There is No Difference between the two. Just different lighting on an Old and a New Label.

https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/zinsser-products/wall-repair/ready-patch-professional-spackling-and-patching-compound

MH Ready Patch is Very Easy to Apply with a Smooth Metal Putty Knife. No Problem with working time. It also Sands Smooth and paints well.

Thanks ... I couldn't tell from the descriptions on Amazon if there was any difference. Like perhaps with Kills, they market a water based and an oil based version.

And thanks for confirming " It also Sands Smooth and paints well."

 

[zoiDman]

BTW - I was very Reluctant to try these Putty Knives because of the Price.

2 in. Putty Knife

Amazing deals on this 2In Putty Knife at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

2 in. Putty-Joint Knife

Amazing deals on this 2 In. Putty-Joint Knife at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

6 in. Blue Steel Taping Knife

Amazing deals on this 6In Blue Steel Taping Knife at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

But I wanted a couple that were Cheap that I could Beat Up doing Stucco Patching. They actually turned out to be Decent Knives. Yeah... The Corners are Dead Sharp Points. And need to be eased. But they are also about 1/2 what Hyde Knives cost.

 

[AttyPops]

IDK, maybe I'm just dumb. But I'd
1) Check to see if I could get that same casing molding in case things go south...if not, use filler plan, not this plan.
2) Rip off the casing molding
3) replace the flat hinge-holed casing board with new
4) Clean up/replace the casing molding and repaint.

I know it costs $$$ that way, as compared to filler in-place. But you could end up regretting filler several years later if it gets cracked or cracks on its own. And the amount of work it takes to get a new piece of wood in there is probably the same amount of work it hopefully takes to replace it.

Maybe you're interested in saving "the old/original wood" and I admire that. But I don't know your motivation.
Filler should be less expensive, but might be a P.I.T.A.

 

[puffon]

IDK, maybe I'm just dumb. But I'd
1) Check to see if I could get that same casing molding in case things go south...if not, use filler plan, not this plan.
2) Rip off the casing molding
3) replace the flat hinge-holed casing board with new
4) Clean up/replace the casing molding and repaint.

I know it costs $$$ that way, as compared to filler in-place. But you could end up regretting filler several years later if it gets cracked or cracks on its own. And the amount of work it takes to get a new piece of wood in there is probably the same amount of work it hopefully takes to replace it.

Maybe you're interested in saving "the old/original wood" and I admire that. But I don't know your motivation.
Filler should be less expensive, but might be a P.I.T.A.

It's not the "casing molding" that would need replacing.
Hinges are morticed into the actual door frame (jamb).
If you tried to replace that board alone it would be an extensive project.

 

[zoiDman]

IDK, maybe I'm just dumb. But I'd
1) Check to see if I could get that same casing molding in case things go south...if not, use filler plan, not this plan.
2) Rip off the casing molding
3) replace the flat hinge-holed casing board with new
4) Clean up/replace the casing molding and repaint.

I know it costs $$$ that way, as compared to filler in-place. But you could end up regretting filler several years later if it gets cracked or cracks on its own. And the amount of work it takes to get a new piece of wood in there is probably the same amount of work it hopefully takes to replace it.

Maybe you're interested in saving "the old/original wood" and I admire that. But I don't know your motivation.
Filler should be less expensive, but might be a P.I.T.A.

The Piece of Wood that is Mortised to except the Door Hinges is called the Hinge Jamb. Attempting to replace it would be an Option of Last Resort.

Just to remove it would be an somewhat of adventure. Because it is Nailed/Screwed onto the Door Frame and trued to the Door (Not the surround 3D Space!) using Shims and Wedges. And to get to it you going to have to remove the Door Trim/Casing on Both Sides of the Hinge Jamb. Because the Door Trim/Casing is finish nailed to the Door Jambs/Header.

I can 100% Guarantee that some Chucks of Plaster are going to come off the Walls along with the Door Trim/Casings. So now we have a Patching and Painting project just for the Wall Plaster that is Larger than the Patching Painting of the Mortises.

It's the 2nd Law of Home Improvement. "Given any Closed System, the Amount of Work Increases Exponentially with Every Piece of Existing Structure that is Removed."

And if one Doesn't have a way to make "Widths" with say a Table Saw or a Router/Fence setup it could be a problem. Because there is a good chance that Off-the-Rack stuff at the Home Center isn't going to fit.

A decent Putty type Patch for an Interior Job like this is going to be Fine. And can easily last Decades. Or More. The Big Advantage to doing a "Dutchman" type patch with a piece of Wood is if you ever want to put a door back(s) onto the Jambs.

And who knows? Maybe the Home Owner will want a Pocket Door there anyway.

LOL

 

[zoiDman]

BTW - If you go to 5:11 in this Vid ...




... you see why you need Two Putty Knifes when you do Patching.

You scoop out a Big Glob of Patch from the Can with a Small Putty Knife (1" or so) and put it on the Big Putty Knife (4" or 5"). Then you work from the Big Putty Knife transferring what you need to the Small knife and then to the work surface.

 

[AttyPops]

It's not the "casing molding" that would need replacing.
Hinges are morticed into the actual door frame (jamb).
If you tried to replace that board alone it would be an extensive project.

The Piece of Wood that is Mortised to except the Door Hinges is called the Hinge Jamb. Attempting to replace it would be an Option of Last Resort.

Just to remove it would be an somewhat of adventure. Because it is Nailed/Screwed onto the Door Frame and trued to the Door (Not the surround 3D Space!) using Shims and Wedges. And to get to it you going to have to remove the Door Trim/Casing on Both Sides of the Hinge Jamb. Because the Door Trim/Casing is finish nailed to the Door Jambs/Header.

I can 100% Guarantee that some Chucks of Plaster are going to come off the Walls along with the Door Trim/Casings. So now we have a Patching and Painting project just for the Wall Plaster that is Larger than the Patching Painting of the Mortises.

It's the 2nd Law of Home Improvement. "Given any Closed System, the Amount of Work Increases Exponentially with Every Piece of Existing Structure that is Removed."

And if one Doesn't have a way to make "Widths" with say a Table Saw or a Router/Fence setup it could be a problem. Because there is a good chance that Off-the-Rack stuff at the Home Center isn't going to fit.

A decent Putty type Patch for an Interior Job like this is going to be Fine. And can easily last Decades. Or More. The Big Advantage to doing a "Dutchman" type patch with a piece of Wood is if you ever want to put a door back(s) onto the Jambs.

And who knows? Maybe the Home Owner will want a Pocket Door there anyway.

LOL

Fair enough.
Although from the original post, it's no longer a door jamb per se, as there's no doors anymore. It's an archway.
But sure, I can see that it gets difficult without a table saw to rip the wood to width if necessary. And with that tight corner, cutting through the paint/plaster might be a pain, although you don't have to do it parallel to the wall, it could be orthogonal to it.

 

[MikeE3]

My story and I'm sticking with it ... and I'd do it again this way if I had too. Ripping it all apart and putting in 'new' was not an option for me. I considered that too much work and expense. Particularly since this isn't my daughter's forever home.

I spent $26 for a quart of M&H ready mix. They sell it in pint containers too but I couldn't find any. That's OK I have other projects coming up that I'll be using it for. Thanks for the recommendation. I found it easy to work with both spreading and sanding.

And another $2.89 for a piece of basswood 1/16 thick. The mortises were 1/16+ deep. I wasn't going to get .... and find / make inserts the exact depth.

So a grand total of about 30 bucks with PA tax included.

Plan A failed. I coated the back of the insert with Ready Patch and was going to install it like a tile. Just set it in place a level it to the outside edges of the face board. Good thing I did a test run on a scrap piece of wood. After putting it in place I went back 20 minutes later and the bass wood soaked up enough moisture from the Ready Mix it curled significantly. Yikes! Moved to plan B. Use some Titebond and glue the pieces in place.

This works OK. But I only had two small clamps and I didn't want to take the time to do one, wait 'till dry, do the next one etc. So I used blue painters tape to hold the rest of them place after gluing them place. This work OK too.

Glued in place.

First coat of Ready Mix

3rd coat of Ready Mix. Time to sand.

Dang, I can't see the patch.

Finished project!

I don't know if my daughter and husband will be here long enough to see 'long term' if it starts to show cracking. The Ready Mix being oil based is supposed to resist cracking more than water based fillers. We'll see (maybe).

And if it does develop some cracking before the sell, a quick patch up with and filler and some paint and then it's the next owners problem.

Bottom line - for me this was cheaper and faster than ripping it apart and putting in new materials.

 

[hittman]

My story and I'm sticking with it ... and I'd do it again this way if I had too. Ripping it all apart and putting in 'new' was not an option for me. I considered that too much work and expense. Particularly since this isn't my daughter's forever home.

I spent $26 for a quart of M&H ready mix. They sell it in pint containers too but I couldn't find any. That's OK I have other projects coming up that I'll be using it for. Thanks for the recommendation. I found it easy to work with both spreading and sanding.

And another $2.89 for a piece of basswood 1/16 thick. The mortises were 1/16+ deep. I wasn't going to get .... and find / make inserts the exact depth.

So a grand total of about 30 bucks with PA tax included.

Plan A failed. I coated the back of the insert with Ready Patch and was going to install it like a tile. Just set it in place a level it to the outside edges of the face board. Good thing I did a test run on a scrap piece of wood. After putting it in place I went back 20 minutes later and the bass wood soaked up enough moisture from the Ready Mix it curled significantly. Yikes! Moved to plan B. Use some Titebond and glue the pieces in place.

View attachment 996108
This works OK. But I only had two small clamps and I didn't want to take the time to do one, wait 'till dry, do the next one etc. So I used blue painters tape to hold the rest of them place after gluing them place. This work OK too.

View attachment 996109

Glued in place.

View attachment 996110

First coat of Ready Mix


View attachment 996111

3rd coat of Ready Mix. Time to sand.

View attachment 996112

Dang, I can't see the patch.

View attachment 996113

Finished project!

I don't know if my daughter and husband will be here long enough to see 'long term' if it starts to show cracking. The Ready Mix being oil based is supposed to resist cracking more than water based fillers. We'll see (maybe).

And if it does develop some cracking before the sell, a quick patch up with and filler and some paint and then it's the next owners problem.

Bottom line - for me this was cheaper and faster than ripping it apart and putting in new materials.

Looks great! Nice job.

 

[MikeE3]

It's the 2nd Law of Home Improvement. "Given any Closed System, the Amount of Work Increases Exponentially with Every Piece of Existing Structure that is Removed."

And the 1st Law of Home Improvement is: Nothing is square, nothing is level and nothing is plumb.

 

[zoiDman]

Right On Mike. Looks Great!

That's one of those Projects that If a person Doesn't Know it is there, they would Never Notice it. And That's the Gold Standard when it comes to DIY Repairs.

 

[zoiDman]

And the 1st Law of Home Improvement is: Nothing is square, nothing is level and nothing is plumb.

Aint that the Truth!

LOL

 

[zoiDman]

Moved to plan B. Use some Titebond and glue the pieces in place.

This works OK. But I only had two small clamps and I didn't want to take the time to do one, wait 'till dry, do the next one etc. So I used blue painters tape to hold the rest of them place after gluing them place. This work OK too.

BTW - Here's a Trick if you ever have to Glue a Small Piece (or even a Bigger Piece) of wood and you Can't get a clamp on it.

And that is to Nail the piece of wood down with 2 Finishing Nails but don't drive them in all the way. Pound in the nails at a Slight Angle to each other, \ / , and they will hold the piece in place until the Glue Dries.

Then just pull out the Nails with Pliers or a Cat's Paw. You going to have to put Patch on the Seams anyway. So 2 Small Nail Holes isn't going to make things any harder.

 

[hittman]

We renovated our master bathroom. It’s been a long process but are finally done. Just thought I’d share a few pictures. One before and two after. We did everything besides the floor. I hired that out.

 

[borno]

We renovated our master bathroom. It’s been a long process but are finally done. Just thought I’d share a few pictures. One before and two after. We did everything besides the floor. I hired that out.

View attachment 996839
View attachment 996840
View attachment 996841

Nice job Hittman! Shower for the people and a tub for the dog.